Must be getting brain dead in my old age but I can't figure an easy way to
do this.

Have a rail & stile bit that I use to make some doors. All is well, slot is
cut for panel, etc. Problem is, I want to make glass doors and putting the
glass panel in the slot seems like a bad idea. If glass should break, I'd
need to disassemble the whole door to replace it.

Solution was to chisel out the slot turning it into a rabbet. Works
perfectly BUT there's got to be a way to do it with the bit itself no? I've
tried all the alignments I can and if I want a rabbet on the back I also get
a large step on the front because of the bit alignment.

Looked for a bit that is designed to make a rabbet with a cope & stick bit
but haven't seen any.

Don't know if I've explained the problem well but welcome any suggestions.

Of course, as a last resort I can still chisel out the rabbet.

Thanx,

Vic

--
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
don't

Have a rail & stile bit that I use to make some doors. All is well, slot is
cut for panel, etc. Problem is, I want to make glass doors and putting the
glass panel in the slot seems like a bad idea. If glass should break, I'd
need to disassemble the whole door to replace it.

True

Solution was to chisel out the slot turning it into a rabbet. Works
perfectly BUT there's got to be a way to do it with the bit itself no?

No, just use either your table saw or a straight cutting bit to get
rid of the inner portion. Just set up the fence properly to use the
straight cutting bit.

http://mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_...doors%20anchor

"Vic Baron" wrote in message

Looked for a bit that is designed to make a rabbet with a cope & stick bit
but haven't seen any.

Don't know if I've explained the problem well but welcome any suggestions.

Of course, as a last resort I can still chisel out the rabbet.

Believe it or not there's a recent article in 11/05 issue of Popular
Woodworking (the one with Lonnie Bird on the front) describing just how to
do it providing you have the right set.

IRRC, it involves replacing the slot cutter from the coping bit with a
spacer/washers, then finishing up the rabbet with the table saw.

Easier to do than explain ... might want to see if you can grab a copy.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

"Larry Bud" wrote in message
oups.com...
Have a rail & stile bit that I use to make some doors. All is well, slot
is
cut for panel, etc. Problem is, I want to make glass doors and putting
the
glass panel in the slot seems like a bad idea. If glass should break,
I'd
need to disassemble the whole door to replace it.

True

Solution was to chisel out the slot turning it into a rabbet. Works
perfectly BUT there's got to be a way to do it with the bit itself no?

No, just use either your table saw or a straight cutting bit to get
rid of the inner portion. Just set up the fence properly to use the
straight cutting bit.


IIRC, the reason I did not do it that way was that I'd have to stop the cut
short of the "corner" or I'd create a gap between the two pieces.

I'll look again though.

wrote in message
oups.com...

http://mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_...doors%20anchor


BINGO! Thanx a bunch!

"Larry Bud" wrote in message
oups.com...
Have a rail & stile bit that I use to make some doors. All is well, slot
is
cut for panel, etc. Problem is, I want to make glass doors and putting
the
glass panel in the slot seems like a bad idea. If glass should break, I'd
need to disassemble the whole door to replace it.

True

Solution was to chisel out the slot turning it into a rabbet. Works
perfectly BUT there's got to be a way to do it with the bit itself no?

No, just use either your table saw or a straight cutting bit to get
rid of the inner portion. Just set up the fence properly to use the
straight cutting bit.

If you are really careful with you saw, the part you cut off can be used to
hold the glass in place.
Jim

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 16:40:17 GMT, "Vic Baron"
wrote:

Must be getting brain dead in my old age but I can't figure an easy way to
do this.

Have a rail & stile bit that I use to make some doors. All is well, slot is
cut for panel, etc. Problem is, I want to make glass doors and putting the
glass panel in the slot seems like a bad idea. If glass should break, I'd
need to disassemble the whole door to replace it.

Solution was to chisel out the slot turning it into a rabbet. Works
perfectly BUT there's got to be a way to do it with the bit itself no? I've
tried all the alignments I can and if I want a rabbet on the back I also get
a large step on the front because of the bit alignment.

Looked for a bit that is designed to make a rabbet with a cope & stick bit
but haven't seen any.

Don't know if I've explained the problem well but welcome any suggestions.

Of course, as a last resort I can still chisel out the rabbet.

Thanx,

Vic


assemble it with the glass trapped. if the glass breaks rout the
opening with a bearing giuded bit and install the new glass with
stops.

assemble it with the glass trapped. if the glass breaks rout the
opening with a bearing giuded bit and install the new glass with
stops.

That's a unique approach - I like it

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 16:40:17 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Vic
Baron" quickly quoth:

Must be getting brain dead in my old age but I can't figure an easy way to
do this.

Thar ain't one unless you have a shaper bit made in that style or find
a custom bit made specifically for glass doors with wooden frames.


Have a rail & stile bit that I use to make some doors. All is well, slot is
cut for panel, etc. Problem is, I want to make glass doors and putting the
glass panel in the slot seems like a bad idea. If glass should break, I'd
need to disassemble the whole door to replace it.

Solution was to chisel out the slot turning it into a rabbet. Works
perfectly BUT there's got to be a way to do it with the bit itself no? I've
tried all the alignments I can and if I want a rabbet on the back I also get
a large step on the front because of the bit alignment.

Looked for a bit that is designed to make a rabbet with a cope & stick bit
but haven't seen any.

Don't know if I've explained the problem well but welcome any suggestions.

Of course, as a last resort I can still chisel out the rabbet.

Use a rabbet bit, Vic. The complex shapes on R&S bit probably won't
allow you to do rabbets with the same bit.

Set the height of the bit on a router table, set the depth of cut, and
make that your first run. Now chuck the R&S bit, set it up, and make
those cuts.
--
SAVE THE PARROTS! Eschew the use of poly!
----------
http://diversify.com Poly-free Website Development

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...

Don't know if I've explained the problem well but welcome any suggestions.

Of course, as a last resort I can still chisel out the rabbet.


Now that you have the solution to removing the back piece of wood, BE SURE
to NOT cut the Stiles from end to end during this part of the procedure as
there will be less support and a missing area where the rail joins the
stile.

"Leon" wrote in message
. ..

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...

Don't know if I've explained the problem well but welcome any
suggestions.

Of course, as a last resort I can still chisel out the rabbet.


Now that you have the solution to removing the back piece of wood, BE SURE
to NOT cut the Stiles from end to end during this part of the procedure
as
there will be less support and a missing area where the rail joins the
stile.



LOL! Found that out the hard way - but it WAS on a test piece. Also why I
cannot rabbet the piece beforehand unless I use a stopped rabbet. Still
would have to chisel out the corner. I'm really not lazy g just looking
for an easier way. However, I *AM* reminded of the story of the guy who took
4 hours to find the easy way to do something when he could have done it in 2
hours the hard way.

Looks like MLCS has a two bit set for glass doors. Might be worth
investigating a bit further. Looks like it might work.

Thanx

This sounds OK, but I think it wiser to route out the grove with a
rabbit bit after the door has been assembled. Then square up the
rounded corners and set the glass into the dado. Hold the glass in
place with small quarter round beads tacked into the frame. You may
want to set the glass on small plastic pads, available from Rocklear,
to keep the glass from rattling

This sounds OK, but I think it wiser to route out the grove with a
rabbit bit after the door has been assembled. Then square up the
rounded corners and set the glass into the dado. Hold the glass in
place with small quarter round beads tacked into the frame. You may
want to set the glass on small plastic pads, available from Rocklear,
to keep the glass from rattling

"Buckwheat" wrote in message
oups.com...
This sounds OK, but I think it wiser to route out the grove with a
rabbit bit after the door has been assembled. Then square up the
rounded corners and set the glass into the dado. Hold the glass in
place with small quarter round beads tacked into the frame. You may
want to set the glass on small plastic pads, available from Rocklear,
to keep the glass from rattling


Did get the plastic pads from Rockler - worked like a charm. I thought about
routing the rabbet after assembly but there's not enough surface for a guide
bearing to ride on after the profile is cut. Probably could come up with
some sort of template though. Have to look at that option too.

Thanx!

"Vic Baron" wrote in message news:xpx8f.7127
Now that you have the solution to removing the back piece of wood, BE
SURE
to NOT cut the Stiles from end to end during this part of the procedure
as
there will be less support and a missing area where the rail joins the
stile.



LOL! Found that out the hard way - but it WAS on a test piece. Also why I
cannot rabbet the piece beforehand unless I use a stopped rabbet.

On some style bits the area that you plan to remove is what guides the
bearing. Removing this first may result in an edge that may dip or nicks in
it if the fence slips.



Still
would have to chisel out the corner. I'm really not lazy g just looking
for an easier way.

I use a utility knife to score across the grain deep enough to go all the
way through and once that is cut you can usually split the remainder off.
Using a chisel can some times split off too much or crack the thin section.

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
m...

assemble it with the glass trapped. if the glass breaks rout the
opening with a bearing giuded bit and install the new glass with
stops.

That's a unique approach - I like it



Actually it's the worst suggestion yet as there is no router bit for this.

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 19:35:33 -0400, "Battleax"
wrote:


"Vic Baron" wrote in message
om...

assemble it with the glass trapped. if the glass breaks rout the
opening with a bearing giuded bit and install the new glass with
stops.

That's a unique approach - I like it



Actually it's the worst suggestion yet as there is no router bit for this.



I have a half dozen in my box that would work.
generic pattern bit.

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 19:35:33 -0400, "Battleax"
wrote:


"Vic Baron" wrote in message
om...

assemble it with the glass trapped. if the glass breaks rout the
opening with a bearing giuded bit and install the new glass with
stops.

That's a unique approach - I like it



Actually it's the worst suggestion yet as there is no router bit for
this.



I have a half dozen in my box that would work.
generic pattern bit.

So what surface does the bearing ride on? This is simply the wrong way to do
a glass door for more reasons than this

"Battleax" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 19:35:33 -0400, "Battleax"
wrote:

So what surface does the bearing ride on? This is simply the wrong way to
do
a glass door for more reasons than this



While I agree that I world not do it this way as the slot tends to be too
wide for the glass, you can break the rest of the glass out and with a flush
trim bit let the bottom bearing ride on the slot that the glass was in.

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 22:14:53 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Vic
Baron" quickly quoth:

"Leon" wrote in message
Now that you have the solution to removing the back piece of wood, BE SURE
to NOT cut the Stiles from end to end during this part of the procedure
as
there will be less support and a missing area where the rail joins the
stile.



LOL! Found that out the hard way - but it WAS on a test piece. Also why I
cannot rabbet the piece beforehand unless I use a stopped rabbet. Still
would have to chisel out the corner. I'm really not lazy g just looking
for an easier way. However, I *AM* reminded of the story of the guy who took
4 hours to find the easy way to do something when he could have done it in 2
hours the hard way.

I use shopping to get some of my exercise, and in doing so, will park
anywhere there's an open space. I park wherever, walk into the store,
shop, pay for it, and come out. At least once a week, I find a car
still circling, usually mad by then, looking for that "perfect"
parking spot near the entrance.

Every once in awhile, I'll stop them and mention that I have parked,
gotten some exercize, done my shopping and am returnig to my vehicle
while they proceeded to get mad, waste gas, waste time, got -no-
exercise, and still haven't done their shopping. (No, nobody has hit
me yet.


Looks like MLCS has a two bit set for glass doors. Might be worth
investigating a bit further. Looks like it might work.

Yeah, $55 + S/H. So, have you gotten any exercise today? bseg


--------------------------------------
PESSIMIST: An optimist with experience
--------------------------------------------
www.diversify.com - Web Database Development

Why go to all of the trouble of dadoing and chiseling
when you can just use a bit designed for the job?
Infinity makes great bits and they sell just what you're
looking for,
http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1106
I haven't used it yet but if it's anything like their
other router bits it is the best quality.

Another option is to take a regular rail and style bit
set and swap the bearings and cutters so that both
slot cutters are on the stile bit and both bearings are on
the rail bit. You obviously won't have a bearing on
the stile bit but it can't be too hard to set up your fence
without the bearing. This is the method that is recommend on the
Routerbits.com website for Whiteside
rail and stile bits, scroll down to the bottom of the page.

Either of these methods seem better than taking the
extra steps posted by others.

Bruce

in 1244507 20051101 085101 wrote:
Why go to all of the trouble of dadoing and chiseling
when you can just use a bit designed for the job?
Infinity makes great bits and they sell just what you're
looking for,
http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1106
I haven't used it yet but if it's anything like their
other router bits it is the best quality.

Another option is to take a regular rail and style bit
set and swap the bearings and cutters so that both
slot cutters are on the stile bit and both bearings are on
the rail bit. You obviously won't have a bearing on
the stile bit but it can't be too hard to set up your fence
without the bearing. This is the method that is recommend on the
Routerbits.com website for Whiteside
rail and stile bits, scroll down to the bottom of the page.

Either of these methods seem better than taking the
extra steps posted by others.

Bruce

The Freud rail & stile bit combines both functions in one bit and it has
bearings top and bottom (function is selected by height of bit in table).
It works very well for me.