"Richard Clay" wrote in message
...
I'm sorry about the basic (perhaps even laughable to some of you) nature
of
these questions, but here goes....

I have a hydronic Myson towel rail. I want to take it off to paint the
wooden panels behind it. Books and websites, which I have researched
before
posting this, only deal with taking radiators off, though I guess it's a
similar situation. Myson sites I have looked at don't help either.

First question: The only diagram I can find including a hydronic towel
heater has it attached to the CH system. But mine comes on when the HW is
on
(even when the CH is off) so I guess it's connected to the HW system. In
this case how is HW pumped around the heater? I thought only CH systems
had
a pump. My HW system is a mains-pressure unvented Megaflo HW tank.

Second question: This requires looking at a couple of (very small!) pics
at
http://www.biscit.biz/~assami/myson/index.html. The left pics shows the
bottom left attachment, and the right pic shows the bottom right
attachment.
A, B, C, D are the same on both.

What is A for (both pics)?

I think I can see that C and D are the valve adaptors (connectors), but
what
is B for (both pics)?

In the right pic, presumably E closes the valve (lockshield?), but what
are
F and G for?

What are the steps I need to take to remove the thing?

Is it sufficient just to turn off the CH and HW, or do I need to do more
drastic things like look for isolating values or (heaven forbid) drain the
system?

Thanks very much for any advice anyone can give.

You shouldn't need to turn anything off.

The heat source for the hot water will pump the same water that goes round
the radiators through a coil/heat exchanger in the hot water tank to heat
the water you actually draw off indirectly. This pumped water also goes
trhough the rail if either HW or CH or both are on. Your example is how it
should be done, many (mine included) are so far from the heat source it's
only convenient to put them on the radiator circuit.

Close both valves (you will need to turn E by fitting a valve head (eg the
one the other side) or using a spanner.

DO NOT MOVE A, G, F, B, D. A is a plug in case you want to fit pipes from
the side.

There should be a bleed screw at the top of the rail. Open this - if a lot
off water comes out, you haven't shut the valve(s). Otherwise leave open.

Undo one C with a bucket underneath (on top of a towel to protect the
floor). When the water starts to dribble, carry on opening until a useful
flow is obtained - you are now draining the towel rail, not the system.

When the water stops coming out, undo it completely and then the other C.

Remove the support fixings and the rail should come away from the wall.

Don't let children play with the valves!

Paint

Refit, doing up the C's hand tight plus 1/4 - 1/2 a turn (DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN).

Open one valve - water will rush in and air out the bleed valve, which you
have left open.

Shut the bleed valve. There is now water in the bottom of the rail and you
are testing for leaks. Assuming there aren't any, bleed all the air out. If
there are try a little extra tighten of the appropriate C. If it's a
disastrous leak (it shouldn't be) shut the valves, leave a bucket underneath
and get someone else to have a look!


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)