I need to finish new windows in an addition. They are untreated pine.
What kinds of finishes do people recommend? I was planning to stain
and poly.

You might think about a light wash with shellac or a sanding sealer to
help the pine "absorb" the stain a little more evenly. Tom

"Doug" wrote in message
oups.com...
I need to finish new windows in an addition. They are untreated pine.
What kinds of finishes do people recommend? I was planning to stain
and poly.

That is what was put on my windows when the house was built in 1978. Still
holding up.

Doug wrote:
I need to finish new windows in an addition. They are untreated pine.
What kinds of finishes do people recommend? I was planning to stain
and poly.


Personally I would use glass in windows! You mean
the window frame? Depends on the style of house,
but paint would be my preference for durability.

On 21 Oct 2005 13:00:25 -0700, "Doug" scribbled:

I need to finish new windows in an addition. They are untreated pine.
What kinds of finishes do people recommend? I was planning to stain
and poly.

I've used Cetol products on the 42 windows in my solarium, a varnish
with a tint, no need to stain (unless you want it very dark).

Product information at:

http://www.nam.sikkens.com/product-c...egory=exterior

What I used is Cetol 1 followed by Cetol TGL, which I now see has been
discontinued but replaced by a windows and doors product. It has
worked well for me, unlike poly which has tended to flake off. YMMV.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikiped...ct_Woodworking

On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 23:43:38 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Luigi Zanasi quickly quoth:

On 21 Oct 2005 13:00:25 -0700, "Doug" scribbled:

I need to finish new windows in an addition. They are untreated pine.
What kinds of finishes do people recommend? I was planning to stain
and poly.

I've used Cetol products on the 42 windows in my solarium, a varnish
with a tint, no need to stain (unless you want it very dark).

Product information at:

http://www.nam.sikkens.com/product-c...egory=exterior

What I used is Cetol 1 followed by Cetol TGL, which I now see has been
discontinued but replaced by a windows and doors product. It has
worked well for me, unlike poly which has tended to flake off. YMMV.

How long ago did you apply it, and what (if any) maintenance schedule
have you found necessary, WeeGee? I've heard lots of good things about
Cetol but haven't read any long-term reviews by people I "know".


--
Strong like ox, smart like tractor.
----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Oxen-free Website Design

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 07:25:47 -0700, Larry Jaques
scribbled:

On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 23:43:38 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Luigi Zanasi quickly quoth:

On 21 Oct 2005 13:00:25 -0700, "Doug" scribbled:

I need to finish new windows in an addition. They are untreated pine.
What kinds of finishes do people recommend? I was planning to stain
and poly.

I've used Cetol products on the 42 windows in my solarium, a varnish
with a tint, no need to stain (unless you want it very dark).

Product information at:

http://www.nam.sikkens.com/product-c...egory=exterior

What I used is Cetol 1 followed by Cetol TGL, which I now see has been
discontinued but replaced by a windows and doors product. It has
worked well for me, unlike poly which has tended to flake off. YMMV.

How long ago did you apply it, and what (if any) maintenance schedule
have you found necessary, WeeGee? I've heard lots of good things about
Cetol but haven't read any long-term reviews by people I "know".

Here's the scoop:
I did considerable research on the web for a clear product to finish
wooden windows. Most exterior varnishes are too soft and sticky for
windows that need to operate. I found Cetol mentioned a lot, including
boating sites. Terry, the paint guy at the local Beaver Lumber/Home
hardware also enthusiastically recommended it, and Terry generally
knows his stuff. So I applied 1 coat of "Cetol 1" and two coats of
"Cetol TGL" in 2002 as recommended by the manufacturer.

To date, no maintenance needed after 3 Yukon winters (with -40-degree
weather) and summers (20 hours of sun) on south-facing windows. The
finish is still in perfect shape. Sikkens recommends a maintenance
coat every 2-3 years for south facing stuff, but I haven't found the
need yet.

By way of comparison, I also did two doors with water-based exterior
poly (Varathane) at the same time (less fuss, easier to apply, dries
faster). The poly was flaking off on the exterior and in bad shape,
including mould on the bottom of the doors. I stripped the doors,
sanded and refinished with Cetol this summer.

I initially did the sills and brickmold (architraves, Andy) with Behr
"Natural seal plus No 92". That's a fancy linseed linseed oil product
with anti-UV stuff. Did not last a year. I resanded the sills and
brickmold this summer. We used Cetol on the sills and "Behr Super
Liquid Rawhide" on the moulding.

Speaking of "Super liquid rawhide", we used that on the posts and
beams as well as the gable end on the solarium. The posts and beams,
where we put on three coats, have lasted up to now (5 years in this
case). The gable end needed to be redone this summer (should have done
it a couple of years ago). I had only applied one coat on the gable
end at the time instead of the recommended three as winter was fast
approaching and I needed to close it in. You can't get the "Super
liquid rawhide" stuff any more on account of some class-action lawsuit
you Oregonians started because the fungicides in it were not
effective.:-( Not that I would use it on windows; it's too soft and
sticky, but very good for exterior cladding or log houses.

As with any finishes, YMMV.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikiped...ct_Woodworking

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 08:42:48 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Luigi Zanasi quickly quoth:

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 07:25:47 -0700, Larry Jaques

How long ago did you apply it, and what (if any) maintenance schedule
have you found necessary, WeeGee? I've heard lots of good things about
Cetol but haven't read any long-term reviews by people I "know".

Here's the scoop:
I did considerable research on the web for a clear product to finish
wooden windows. Most exterior varnishes are too soft and sticky for
windows that need to operate. I found Cetol mentioned a lot, including
boating sites. Terry, the paint guy at the local Beaver Lumber/Home
hardware also enthusiastically recommended it, and Terry generally
knows his stuff. So I applied 1 coat of "Cetol 1" and two coats of
"Cetol TGL" in 2002 as recommended by the manufacturer.

To date, no maintenance needed after 3 Yukon winters (with -40-degree
weather) and summers (20 hours of sun) on south-facing windows. The
finish is still in perfect shape. Sikkens recommends a maintenance
coat every 2-3 years for south facing stuff, but I haven't found the
need yet.

OK, I'm sold. It passes the GWN eXtreme Tests.


By way of comparison, I also did two doors with water-based exterior
poly (Varathane) at the same time (less fuss, easier to apply, dries
faster). The poly was flaking off on the exterior and in bad shape,

Karma, dude. That's Karma.


I initially did the sills and brickmold (architraves, Andy) with Behr
"Natural seal plus No 92". That's a fancy linseed linseed oil product
with anti-UV stuff. Did not last a year. I resanded the sills and
brickmold this summer. We used Cetol on the sills and "Behr Super
Liquid Rawhide" on the moulding.

Which Cetol, same combo?


As with any finishes, YMMV.

Ain't dat da trufe?


--
Strong like ox, smart like tractor.
----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Oxen-free Website Design

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 09:40:23 -0700, Larry Jaques
scribbled:

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 08:42:48 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Luigi Zanasi quickly quoth:

On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 07:25:47 -0700, Larry Jaques

How long ago did you apply it, and what (if any) maintenance schedule
have you found necessary, WeeGee? I've heard lots of good things about
Cetol but haven't read any long-term reviews by people I "know".

Here's the scoop:
To date, no maintenance needed after 3 Yukon winters (with -40-degree
weather) and summers (20 hours of sun) on south-facing windows. The
finish is still in perfect shape. Sikkens recommends a maintenance
coat every 2-3 years for south facing stuff, but I haven't found the
need yet.

OK, I'm sold. It passes the GWN eXtreme Tests.

Yabbut, can it pass the PNW soaking and mould test? Prolly so 'cause
the boaters like it, but who knows.

By way of comparison, I also did two doors with water-based exterior
poly (Varathane) at the same time (less fuss, easier to apply, dries
faster). The poly was flaking off on the exterior and in bad shape,

Karma, dude. That's Karma.

Just thought I would reinforce your polyurinestain prejudices. But
then Ed says his stain+poly has held up since 1978.

I initially did the sills and brickmold (architraves, Andy) with Behr
"Natural seal plus No 92". That's a fancy linseed linseed oil product
with anti-UV stuff. Did not last a year. I resanded the sills and
brickmold this summer. We used Cetol on the sills and "Behr Super
Liquid Rawhide" on the moulding.

Which Cetol, same combo?

Yup, one coat "Cetol 1" plus 2 coats "Cetol TGL".

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikiped...ct_Woodworking