I want to rewire a motor from 110 to 220 on a new bandsaw. It came wired
for 110. I think I know how to do this... I did it on a jointer last
year. The diagram is usually inside the motor cover. When I rewired the
jointer, I had to replace the ON/OFF switch (said so in the manual, so I
followed instructions). The bandsaw manual makes no mention of changing
the switch, only rewiring the motor. Does anyone know about this? Does
the ON/OFF switch have to be changed or rewired as well?


Tom

"TomWoodman" wrote in message
...
I want to rewire a motor from 110 to 220 on a new bandsaw. It came wired
for 110. I think I know how to do this..
I did it on a jointer last year. The diagram is usually inside the motor
cover. When I rewired the jointer, I had to replace the ON/OFF switch
(said so in the manual, so I followed instructions). The bandsaw manual
makes no mention of changing the switch, only rewiring the motor. Does
anyone know about this? Does the ON/OFF switch have to be changed or
rewired as well?


Tom


Yes, you now have two hot wires, and the switch must disconnect both. In
short, the switch needs to be DPST (that is double pole single throw). If
yours isn't, then you need a new switch.
Jim

In article ,
TomWoodman wrote:
I want to rewire a motor from 110 to 220 on a new bandsaw. It came wired
for 110. I think I know how to do this... I did it on a jointer last
year. The diagram is usually inside the motor cover. When I rewired the
jointer, I had to replace the ON/OFF switch (said so in the manual, so I
followed instructions). The bandsaw manual makes no mention of changing
the switch, only rewiring the motor. Does anyone know about this? Does
the ON/OFF switch have to be changed or rewired as well?

Authoritative answer: "It depends".

On the existing switch, how it is currently wired, how it _can_ be wired,
and whether or not you like gambling with your life. grin

To be safe (and incidentally "code-compliant" in most locales) you need to
have a 'double-pole' switch for 220(240) V devices. this way the switch
disconnects "all" the hot wires, and, when in the 'off' position, there are
no dangerous voltages present 'downstream' of the switch. For 110 (120) V
it is only necessary to disconnect the one 'hot' wire. you _can_ disconnect
the 'neutral' as well in that set-up -- it doesn't hurt anything to do so.

*IF* the current switch is presently wired to disconnect both leads, then
you don't have to do anything at the switch.

OTOH, if the switch only switches one wire, then changes _do_ need to be
made. If the present switch can handle two wires, you just have to
change the wiring at the switch. BUT, if the present switch can only handle
one wire, then you need to replace the switch.