I have an existing kitchen cabinet that I wanted to refinish. It has an
existing wood stain and some sort of semi gloss finish that is just too
tough to remove to bare wood. I'm using a palm sander and its taken forever.
At this rate its faster to make new doors and drawer faces than try to strip
it down to bare wood. Could the existing finish and stain be removed faster
with chemical strippers? I don't think I could remove all the dark stain
embedded deep in the pores without taken my belt sander to it so Plan B is
to paint instead of refinish with a lighter stain.

If I go with plan B, paint that is, what is a good primer and tough paint
for kitchen cabinets? In either case, I like to invest in a good HVLP setup
for this and future projects - any suggestions?

"Fred" wrote in message
...
I have an existing kitchen cabinet that I wanted to refinish. It has an
existing wood stain and some sort of semi gloss finish that is just too
tough to remove to bare wood. I'm using a palm sander and its taken
forever.
At this rate its faster to make new doors and drawer faces than try to
strip
it down to bare wood. Could the existing finish and stain be removed
faster
with chemical strippers?

Maybe, but that will remove the topcoat. It will not remove the stain which
is absorbed into the wood and pores. You could go from light to darker, but
the reverse doesn't work too well.

I don't think I could remove all the dark stain
embedded deep in the pores without taken my belt sander to it so Plan B is
to paint instead of refinish with a lighter stain.

Yup. Paint is a more realistic approach.


If I go with plan B, paint that is, what is a good primer and tough paint
for kitchen cabinets?

Any top-quality oil-based enamel. Latex is a no-no.

Don't refinish, . . . . . . . . laminate.
They make kits that you can use to laminate real wood over the old cabinet
case.
Then, purchase new doors to match the laminate.
The outcome is a new looking kitchen at a fraction of the cost of new
cabinets..

"Fred" wrote in message
...
I have an existing kitchen cabinet that I wanted to refinish. It has an
existing wood stain and some sort of semi gloss finish that is just too
tough to remove to bare wood. I'm using a palm sander and its taken
forever. At this rate its faster to make new doors and drawer faces than
try to strip it down to bare wood. Could the existing finish and stain be
removed faster with chemical strippers? I don't think I could remove all
the dark stain embedded deep in the pores without taken my belt sander to
it so Plan B is to paint instead of refinish with a lighter stain.

If I go with plan B, paint that is, what is a good primer and tough paint
for kitchen cabinets? In either case, I like to invest in a good HVLP
setup for this and future projects - any suggestions?

"Fred" wrote in message
...
I have an existing kitchen cabinet that I wanted to refinish. It has an
existing wood stain and some sort of semi gloss finish that is just too
tough to remove to bare wood. I'm using a palm sander and its taken
forever. At this rate its faster to make new doors and drawer faces than
try to strip it down to bare wood. Could the existing finish and stain be
removed faster with chemical strippers? I don't think I could remove all
the dark stain embedded deep in the pores without taken my belt sander to
it so Plan B is to paint instead of refinish with a lighter stain.

It is likely that if you sand deep enough to get the stain out of the pores
that you will sand through the outer
veneer.


If I go with plan B, paint that is, what is a good primer and tough paint
for kitchen cabinets? In either case, I like to invest in a good HVLP
setup for this and future projects - any suggestions?

If you choose to paint, prime then sand then paint, maybe a second primer
coat. Use the same brand primer as the paint you use. I highly recommend
Sherwin-Williams Alkyd Oil based paint. Get their best for ease of
application and durability.

On Mon, 8 Aug 2005 08:40:43 -0700, "Fred" wrote:

I have an existing kitchen cabinet that I wanted to refinish. It has an
existing wood stain and some sort of semi gloss finish that is just too
tough to remove to bare wood. I'm using a palm sander and its taken forever.
At this rate its faster to make new doors and drawer faces than try to strip
it down to bare wood. Could the existing finish and stain be removed faster
with chemical strippers? I don't think I could remove all the dark stain
embedded deep in the pores without taken my belt sander to it so Plan B is
to paint instead of refinish with a lighter stain.

If I go with plan B, paint that is, what is a good primer and tough paint
for kitchen cabinets? In either case, I like to invest in a good HVLP setup
for this and future projects - any suggestions?

Plan B will work the best if you wipe the cabinets with TSP before
priming. Beyond that, head to a Sherwin Williams or other paint store
(not home center) and ask what they suggest- a guy in a real paint
place is bound to know a bit about the product, and they'll get you
pointed in the right direction.

And a GOOD bristle brush.

On Mon, 08 Aug 2005 18:12:34 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

If you choose to paint, prime then sand then paint, maybe a second primer
coat. Use the same brand primer as the paint you use. I highly recommend
Sherwin-Williams Alkyd Oil based paint. Get their best for ease of
application and durability.

"nospambob" wrote in message
...
And a GOOD bristle brush.


Yeah. And if you are on flat wide panels you can used a 1" diameter closed
cell roller and get sprayed on results with oil based paints.

I was rolling oil in a kitchen and rolled a pocket door, didn't like
the texture so tipped it off with 4" bristle brush and got a finish
like sprayed! Convinced me.

On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 15:02:44 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"nospambob" wrote in message
.. .
And a GOOD bristle brush.


Yeah. And if you are on flat wide panels you can used a 1" diameter closed
cell roller and get sprayed on results with oil based paints.

"nospambob" wrote in message
...
I was rolling oil in a kitchen and rolled a pocket door, didn't like
the texture so tipped it off with 4" bristle brush and got a finish
like sprayed! Convinced me.


My buddy and I have probably painted 10 homes in the last few years. Until
we found the "CLOSED" cell foam rollers the paint brush was the only way to
go with oil based. Pad brushes tended to put down way too much oil paint
but work great on latex paints.

Seriously the small 4 or 5" long White closed cell rollers give a sprayed
look. The open cell foam rollers suck with oil paints. The closed cell
rollers have a very smooth texture/surface by comparison.

"Leon" wrote in message
t...

"nospambob" wrote in message
...
I was rolling oil in a kitchen and rolled a pocket door, didn't like
the texture so tipped it off with 4" bristle brush and got a finish
like sprayed! Convinced me.


My buddy and I have probably painted 10 homes in the last few years.
Until we found the "CLOSED" cell foam rollers the paint brush was the only
way to go with oil based. Pad brushes tended to put down way too much oil
paint but work great on latex paints.

Seriously the small 4 or 5" long White closed cell rollers give a sprayed
look. The open cell foam rollers suck with oil paints. The closed cell
rollers have a very smooth texture/surface by comparison.


Good tip Leon, thanks! So I don't need to buy a HVLP sprayer?

"Fred" wrote in message
...


Good tip Leon, thanks! So I don't need to buy a HVLP sprayer?

Keep in mind that these type rollers are good on flat surfaces. Use premium
brand paint brush for irregular surfaces and tight spots as nospambob
indicated. And again get a premium brand and quality oil paint.

That kitchen job was a LONG time ago but the memory lingers on. We
have neighbors son as our dedicated painter now and he's due today to
discuss schedule for some exterior and some interior work. Not at all
familiar with developments on rollers, thankfully.

On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 19:41:17 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"nospambob" wrote in message
.. .
I was rolling oil in a kitchen and rolled a pocket door, didn't like
the texture so tipped it off with 4" bristle brush and got a finish
like sprayed! Convinced me.


My buddy and I have probably painted 10 homes in the last few years. Until
we found the "CLOSED" cell foam rollers the paint brush was the only way to
go with oil based. Pad brushes tended to put down way too much oil paint
but work great on latex paints.

Seriously the small 4 or 5" long White closed cell rollers give a sprayed
look. The open cell foam rollers suck with oil paints. The closed cell
rollers have a very smooth texture/surface by comparison.