Can't seem to rip straight on a table saw when the angle is very small. That
is, at the end of the rip where the blade is in contact with only one side
of the wood then the blade flex away from the wood leaving a non-straight
cut. Any tricks to cut straight?

Sharp full kerf blade, good bearings and good technique.

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Can't seem to rip straight on a table saw when the angle is very small.
That
is, at the end of the rip where the blade is in contact with only one side
of the wood then the blade flex away from the wood leaving a non-straight
cut. Any tricks to cut straight?

your blad is probably not parallel to the miter slot......

On Wed, 3 Aug 2005 17:48:52 -0700, "Fred" wrote:

Can't seem to rip straight on a table saw when the angle is very small. That
is, at the end of the rip where the blade is in contact with only one side
of the wood then the blade flex away from the wood leaving a non-straight
cut. Any tricks to cut straight?

Fred wrote:
Can't seem to rip straight on a table saw when the angle is very small. That
is, at the end of the rip where the blade is in contact with only one side
of the wood then the blade flex away from the wood leaving a non-straight
cut. Any tricks to cut straight?


more information please.

what is the make and model of your saw?

what kind of blade are you using?

what kind of fence is on the saw?

are you using any blade guard or splitter, and if so what?

what kind of wood, and how big a piece?

are you using any kind of featherboards or hold downs?

"bridger" wrote in message
ups.com...

Fred wrote:
Can't seem to rip straight on a table saw when the angle is very small.
That
is, at the end of the rip where the blade is in contact with only one
side
of the wood then the blade flex away from the wood leaving a non-straight
cut. Any tricks to cut straight?


more information please.

what is the make and model of your saw?

Ryobi BT3000

what kind of blade are you using?

Blade is combination, thin kerf - that's what Ryobi recomments.

Got to be thin kerf, rip or combination - this sucker is under powered.


what kind of fence is on the saw?

I use the special long fence - a Ryobi accesory, very nice for long stocks.


are you using any blade guard or splitter, and if so what?


No

what kind of wood, and how big a piece?


Not wood but laminate flooring - about 1/4" thick. This happens on wood too.


are you using any kind of featherboards or hold downs?


Yes - material does not move, just the blade.

Normal cuts blade does not flex. It flexes on very thin cuts (trim cuts) at
small angles at the end of the cut where only one side of the blade is in
contact with the material. It seems like the blade rides over the material
at the end of the cut since all the force is on one side of the blade (the
side with the material) and non on the other side.

Doesn't matter what saw I use, it happens on the table saw, chop saw (don't
remember if its thin kerf too) and also my 10" wet diamond saw (blade is
very thin) for tiles. The work piece doesn't move, but the blade flex away
from the material at the end of a thin cut.

"Fred" wrote in message
...

Ever tried a regular kerf blade? The thin kerf requiring less power bit is
way overblown. I use regular kerf blades on a one horse Craftsman. It will
cut anything resembling wood up to full depth of the blade. Dump that
flexiblade.

On Wed, 3 Aug 2005 17:48:52 -0700, "Fred" wrote:

Can't seem to rip straight on a table saw when the angle is very small. That
is, at the end of the rip where the blade is in contact with only one side
of the wood then the blade flex away from the wood leaving a non-straight
cut. Any tricks to cut straight?

My guess- try slowing down the rate at which you feed the piece into
the saw. I've seen a lot of guys make a lot of cuts, and have noticed
a tendancy of a lot of people is to speed up the feed rate at the last
part of the cut. The blade flexes because it's being pushed too hard,
and force is directed on the saw itself, instead of just the cutting
teeth, at least in my experience. Keep it nice and slow all the way
through the cut- it helps. Reduces tearing and such as well.

The other suggestion is to make sure you have adquete outfeed support.
If the stock starts to see-saw at the end of the cut, it's very easy
to mess up the cut. You could get roller stands, or even just a
stepladder.

"Fred" writes:

"bridger" wrote in message

what is the make and model of your saw?

Ryobi BT3000

....

are you using any blade guard or splitter, and if so what?


No

Unless you've removed it (and if so, why?), the BT3k has a Euro-style
riving knife (aka splitter).


Doesn't matter what saw I use, it happens on the table saw, chop saw (don't
remember if its thin kerf too) and also my 10" wet diamond saw (blade is
very thin) for tiles. The work piece doesn't move, but the blade flex away
from the material at the end of a thin cut.

If it happens on EVERY saw, seems the saw is not the problem here.
Also, if you're getting force from the SIDE of the blade, something is
bad, and dangerously, wrong.



--
You can't trade cash for skill. Sadly, I have neither.

Are you using the original motor or the upgrade?

On Thu, 4 Aug 2005 18:23:45 -0700, "Fred" wrote:


Ryobi BT3000

what kind of blade are you using?

Blade is combination, thin kerf - that's what Ryobi recomments.

Got to be thin kerf, rip or combination - this sucker is under powered.

Fred wrote:
"bridger" wrote in message
ups.com...

Fred wrote:

Can't seem to rip straight on a table saw when the angle is very small.
That
is, at the end of the rip where the blade is in contact with only one
side
of the wood then the blade flex away from the wood leaving a non-straight
cut. Any tricks to cut straight?


more information please.

what is the make and model of your saw?


Ryobi BT3000

what kind of blade are you using?


Blade is combination, thin kerf - that's what Ryobi recomments.

Got to be thin kerf, rip or combination - this sucker is under powered.


what kind of fence is on the saw?


I use the special long fence - a Ryobi accesory, very nice for long stocks.


are you using any blade guard or splitter, and if so what?



No


what kind of wood, and how big a piece?



Not wood but laminate flooring - about 1/4" thick. This happens on wood too.



are you using any kind of featherboards or hold downs?



Yes - material does not move, just the blade.

Normal cuts blade does not flex. It flexes on very thin cuts (trim cuts) at
small angles at the end of the cut where only one side of the blade is in
contact with the material. It seems like the blade rides over the material
at the end of the cut since all the force is on one side of the blade (the
side with the material) and non on the other side.

Doesn't matter what saw I use, it happens on the table saw, chop saw (don't
remember if its thin kerf too) and also my 10" wet diamond saw (blade is
very thin) for tiles. The work piece doesn't move, but the blade flex away
from the material at the end of a thin cut.


Assuming the guide is parallel to the sawblade,
the problem is either sharpness of the sawblade,
technique, or bearings. First unplug the saw and
grab the blade and try to move it to and from the
guide, hold as close to the nut as possible so the
blade doesn't bend. There should be little or no
in and out movement of the shaft.

Second, you are pushing the wood through faster
than the blade will cut so the blade gets pushed
sideways. Forget thin kerf for the laminate, you
should be using a standard carbide tipped blade of
around 60 teeth for laminate. If the blade is
sharp then you are just pushing the material
through to fast.

I experienced this type of problem with my
circular saw, especially with a slight angle for
doors, and finally realized that the bearings had
way too much end play, about 0.040" movement.

"CW" wrote in message
k.net...

"Fred" wrote in message
...

Ever tried a regular kerf blade? The thin kerf requiring less power bit is
way overblown. I use regular kerf blades on a one horse Craftsman. It will
cut anything resembling wood up to full depth of the blade. Dump that
flexiblade.




I had regular blades which was too hard on the motor and keep burning up the
drive belts. Ryobi tech support advice to use thin kerf, combo or rip
blades.

"nospambob" wrote in message
...
Are you using the original motor or the upgrade?

Original

In article , "Fred" wrote:

Normal cuts blade does not flex. It flexes on very thin cuts (trim cuts) at
small angles at the end of the cut where only one side of the blade is in
contact with the material. It seems like the blade rides over the material
at the end of the cut since all the force is on one side of the blade (the
side with the material) and non on the other side.

The blade is dull, or you're feeding the material too fast.

You can probably reduce the magnitude of the problem by raising the blade
higher, and by feeding the board through, fat end first.

Doesn't matter what saw I use, it happens on the table saw, chop saw (don't
remember if its thin kerf too) and also my 10" wet diamond saw (blade is
very thin) for tiles. The work piece doesn't move, but the blade flex away
from the material at the end of a thin cut.

The fact that you encounter the same problem on several different saws
suggests something amiss with your technique, probably feeding too fast. Or
else *all* your blades are dull. :-)

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Our son bought the upgrade motor as a gift and it did cut differently
than the original.

On Fri, 5 Aug 2005 12:58:27 -0700, "Fred" wrote:


"nospambob" wrote in message
.. .
Are you using the original motor or the upgrade?

Original

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
.. .
In article , "Fred"
wrote:

Normal cuts blade does not flex. It flexes on very thin cuts (trim cuts)
at
small angles at the end of the cut where only one side of the blade is in
contact with the material. It seems like the blade rides over the material
at the end of the cut since all the force is on one side of the blade (the
side with the material) and non on the other side.

The blade is dull, or you're feeding the material too fast.

You can probably reduce the magnitude of the problem by raising the blade
higher, and by feeding the board through, fat end first.

Doesn't matter what saw I use, it happens on the table saw, chop saw
(don't
remember if its thin kerf too) and also my 10" wet diamond saw (blade is
very thin) for tiles. The work piece doesn't move, but the blade flex away
from the material at the end of a thin cut.

The fact that you encounter the same problem on several different saws
suggests something amiss with your technique, probably feeding too fast.
Or
else *all* your blades are dull. :-)


All feed rates are slow. The diamond blade is a new good quality MK and the
wet saw is new too. I'll replace the two 10" blades on the table saw and
miter saw and see. Not much technique on the miter saw.

Good to know this is not normal, hopefully its not my technique.

Thanks to all for the help








--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.