Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default Air compressor, minimum specs??

I know I should just google it, but it's Friday, I've spent the whole
week doing tile in the house and I'm tired, my hands, knees and back
hurt, and worse just too lazy to look right now. So, an assist from
the rec would help here.

My old air compressor (given to me by pop in law - a really good guy)
petered out on me a while back as a hole popped out in the tank. Given
the aforementiond tile job I'm doing I need to replace a whole bunch of
trim and the time has come to invest in a new air compressor. Dad in
law is not footing the bill on this one.

What would you all recommend as a minimum for doing trim, moulding,
furniture, etc. I don't need a workhorse for framing and huge jobs.
Just something to take care of smaller jobs. I guess I am wondering
what HP, PSI, etc.

Thaks in advance to all for hte help.

Geo

  #2   Report Post  
www
 
Posts: n/a
Default

If it's just for running air nailers, than just about any compressor with a
tanke will do the trick.
But a 2HP, 6 gallon would be fine. PSI you need is 70-120 PSI for most nail
guns, big and small.

--
Regards,

Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Complete our tool survey, Win $200!
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 6 Reviews:
- Sherwood OS-100 Oscillating Spindle Sander
- Porter Cable NS150A Narrow Crown Stapler
- Book: Popular Mechanics Shelving & Storage
- Betterley Tru-Cut Insert System
- Digital Calipers & Height Gauge
- Delta SS250 Scroll Saw (Review Updated)
------------------------------------------------------------


wrote in message
oups.com...
I know I should just google it, but it's Friday, I've spent the whole
week doing tile in the house and I'm tired, my hands, knees and back
hurt, and worse just too lazy to look right now. So, an assist from
the rec would help here.

My old air compressor (given to me by pop in law - a really good guy)
petered out on me a while back as a hole popped out in the tank. Given
the aforementiond tile job I'm doing I need to replace a whole bunch of
trim and the time has come to invest in a new air compressor. Dad in
law is not footing the bill on this one.

What would you all recommend as a minimum for doing trim, moulding,
furniture, etc. I don't need a workhorse for framing and huge jobs.
Just something to take care of smaller jobs. I guess I am wondering
what HP, PSI, etc.

Thaks in advance to all for hte help.

Geo



  #3   Report Post  
Ray
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I can relate, just finished grouting the kitchen last night. The room
never seemed so big.

I have a 30 gallon Craftsman that has been great. Just bought two PC
nailers for the reasons you mentioned. Before you buy a compressor
think about this:

Does it need to be portable?

Will I ever have the need for an HVLP sprayer? (don't know much about
this, but I gather it requires a special or high-volume compressor)

Space available (next time I will get one with a vertical tank for a
smaller footprint)

Noise level of the compressor, wife, kids, neighbors, etc.

What kind of tools will you need to run? As already mentioned, nailers
don't need a big tank, except maybe a roofing gun. Air tools like
grinders, drills, ratchets, impact guns and the like use a lot of air.
My 30 gallon at times can't keep up when using these tools.

As usual the answer is: It depends...

What about brazing the hole in the tank or having it welded?

  #4   Report Post  
Upscale
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Ray" wrote in message

What about brazing the hole in the tank or having it welded?


I'm wondering what cause the hole in his tank? If it was from rusting which
I understand is common from water in the tank, then I'd definitely be prone
to trashing it.


  #5   Report Post  
RonB
 
Posts: n/a
Default

About any compressor will do the job for running nailers and the like.
However, you might want to think about how you used the old one - and future
needs. If you run any continuous-demand tools (sprayer, sander, etc.)
you'll want to go bigger. The 2HP, 15-20 gallon machines in the home and
farm-supply stores will meet most needs. I personally have a CH 30 gallon,
upright oiled compressor. It is on wheels so I can move it around if
needed. I have used it for everything from nailing to spraying and can't
image overloading in my shop.

RonB

PS - Shop the home stores for packages. I helped my daughter buy one for
the son-in-law last Christmas. We picked up a Husky 26 gallon oil-less at
HD for less than $300 and it came with a hose and lots of toys (impact
wrenches, air chisel, grease gun, fittings, etc.) Granted the toys were not
top quality but it got him going.




  #6   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message
oups.com...


What would you all recommend as a minimum for doing trim, moulding,
furniture, etc. I don't need a workhorse for framing and huge jobs.


Any small compressor will handl the nail guns and have plenty of pressure.
I have a little 6 gallon Porcer Cable pancake that works well for me. Even
the small ones will put out 120+ psi

If you are getting into air tools, grinder, etc, you need much more.


  #7   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Ray" wrote in message

What about brazing the hole in the tank or having it welded?


Don't even think about it. Once rusted through, the tank should be trashed.


  #8   Report Post  
Lee Michaels
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:tksGe.9$2y2.2@trndny02...

wrote in message
oups.com...


What would you all recommend as a minimum for doing trim, moulding,
furniture, etc. I don't need a workhorse for framing and huge jobs.


Any small compressor will handl the nail guns and have plenty of pressure.
I have a little 6 gallon Porcer Cable pancake that works well for me.
Even the small ones will put out 120+ psi

If you are getting into air tools, grinder, etc, you need much more.

A porcer cable, eh?

Is that one of those domstic porcers or is it a veitnamese pot bellied
porcer?



  #9   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Think about this; the compressors these days are cheap. Buy a little
bit larger one than you think you might need, and then buy plenty of
hose.

It is not unusual for me to put the compressor out on a job by the
outlet, and then run 250' of hose from it. My jobsite compressors are
half oiled and half oiless. Some here think that the oiless are too
noisy... roll, or take it away from your work area and put on all the
hose you are to work with.

Unlike electrical, you won't lose pressure with longer hoses, but you
will get farther away from a noisy machine. Both of my buddies that
have cabinet shops have their compressors outside the shop and run
their hoses where they need them.

Robert

  #10   Report Post  
Frank Boettcher
 
Posts: n/a
Default


For interior trim you want light and transportable. Porter Cable has
a 2hp, 6 gal. pancake that is only 34 lbs. would be good for what you
describe.





On 29 Jul 2005 07:07:05 -0700, "
wrote:

I know I should just google it, but it's Friday, I've spent the whole
week doing tile in the house and I'm tired, my hands, knees and back
hurt, and worse just too lazy to look right now. So, an assist from
the rec would help here.

My old air compressor (given to me by pop in law - a really good guy)
petered out on me a while back as a hole popped out in the tank. Given
the aforementiond tile job I'm doing I need to replace a whole bunch of
trim and the time has come to invest in a new air compressor. Dad in
law is not footing the bill on this one.

What would you all recommend as a minimum for doing trim, moulding,
furniture, etc. I don't need a workhorse for framing and huge jobs.
Just something to take care of smaller jobs. I guess I am wondering
what HP, PSI, etc.

Thaks in advance to all for hte help.

Geo




  #11   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Because of the pressure involved, do try to have it done to ASME specs.
OTOH replacing the tank should cost lots less than a new unit.

Chalk it up to lesson to drain water.

HTH,
J

  #12   Report Post  
Chita
 
Posts: n/a
Default

First suggestion: get a new tank. Cheaper than buying whole new
compressor.

Second suggestion: for the first time, I tried a Harbor Freight
compressor. It is just FINE and it's on sale now for $89. At least, it
was last week. I think the normal price is around $139. There are two
models that look almost exactly alike. I got the one that uses a copper
tube instead of plastic between a couple of parts in front. Check out
ITEM 38898-3VGA online for specs.

It's an oil bath unit, which I insisted on because they last longer and
are much quieter than the oil-free units. It uses about one bottle of
oil and has a little window so you can tell your oil level. I used it
to run a couple of brad nailers, one 18ga and a framing nailer with 3"
nails. I'm amazed at the performance for the money, to be blunt. I also
got their $20 brad nailer and it runs fine too. I already had a
Craftsman 15 ga nailer and a Dewalt 16 ga and it all runs fine. Nailers
are easy on compressors. You can shoot a dozen or more
nails/brads/pins/staples before the compressor comes on. 4 gallons
isn't much to store but it does fine for nailers, IMHO. I wanted a unit
that was easy to lift. At 50 pounds, it was perfect.

I'm surprised by the increased functionality of some of these super
cheap tools. I never would have tried HF for anything with a motor a
few years ago. I think nailers and compressors now are safe bets - just
read newsgroups for personal reports. Keep a sharp eye on stock and
model numbers. There are differences, even between units that look
identical at first.

  #13   Report Post  
Chita
 
Posts: n/a
Default

By the way, I forgot to mention: I wouldn't buy air hose or fittings
from HarborFreight. The rubber hoses are stinky and unwieldy. The
fittings leaked like crazy. I got a poly type orange hose - lightweight
and still very cheap. Available all over, any Sears or Home Depot, etc.
Husky fittings from Home Depot didn't leak. I use a few wraps of teflon
tape around threaded bits. I like Milton fittings (over time, I've
found they're the best for function and longevity). I was in a hurry
that day and couldn't stop the HarborFreight fittings from leaking so
got the Home Depot Husky fittings as an emergency replacement. They
worked fine.

Also - if you can, use a local HarborFreight and open the box before
you leave the store. The first nailer had a broken case and it took a
couple of kits to find one that was complete as well as unbroken. Some
boxes did NOT have all the nail samples that were promised.

  #14   Report Post  
Nirodac
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Ray wrote:
I can relate, just finished grouting the kitchen last night. The room
never seemed so big.

I have a 30 gallon Craftsman that has been great. Just bought two PC
nailers for the reasons you mentioned. Before you buy a compressor
think about this:

Does it need to be portable?

Will I ever have the need for an HVLP sprayer? (don't know much about
this, but I gather it requires a special or high-volume compressor)

Space available (next time I will get one with a vertical tank for a
smaller footprint)

Noise level of the compressor, wife, kids, neighbors, etc.

What kind of tools will you need to run? As already mentioned, nailers
don't need a big tank, except maybe a roofing gun. Air tools like
grinders, drills, ratchets, impact guns and the like use a lot of air.
My 30 gallon at times can't keep up when using these tools.

As usual the answer is: It depends...

What about brazing the hole in the tank or having it welded?

Yea, my tank rusted throw also, I brazed it and it's holding air (five
years, so far). I will be replacing the tank though.
But I have a question.
My buddy had a leak in his motorcycle gas tank, he bought an epoxy
liquid that lined the inside of his tank and stopped the leak. This
material was made specifically for this purpose (lining old rusty gas
tanks).
What I thought was, if I get a new tank, can I use this same epoxy to
line the inside of the new tank before I use it, to prevent future
rusting. For some reason, I've never seen anything in print about this
solution, what are the down sides, would epoxy paint work as well.

Ray
  #15   Report Post  
Chita
 
Posts: n/a
Default

You sold a rotten tool to your friend? How does he like it?



  #16   Report Post  
nospambob
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I had the receiver (tank) replaced instead of replacing the entire
assembly.

On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 11:16:07 -0400, "Upscale"
wrote:

"Ray" wrote in message

What about brazing the hole in the tank or having it welded?


I'm wondering what cause the hole in his tank? If it was from rusting which
I understand is common from water in the tank, then I'd definitely be prone
to trashing it.


  #17   Report Post  
WillR
 
Posts: n/a
Default



wrote:
I know I should just google it, but it's Friday, I've spent the whole
week doing tile in the house and I'm tired, my hands, knees and back
hurt, and worse just too lazy to look right now. So, an assist from
the rec would help here.
=20
My old air compressor (given to me by pop in law - a really good guy)
petered out on me a while back as a hole popped out in the tank. Given=


the aforementiond tile job I'm doing I need to replace a whole bunch of=


trim and the time has come to invest in a new air compressor. Dad in
law is not footing the bill on this one.
=20
What would you all recommend as a minimum for doing trim, moulding,
furniture, etc. I don't need a workhorse for framing and huge jobs.
Just something to take care of smaller jobs. I guess I am wondering
what HP, PSI, etc.
=20
Thaks in advance to all for hte help.
=20
Geo


I had the same question and looked at the DeWalt and King Canada site. ( =

http://kingcanada.com )

The nailer you want gives the correct specs. I also had a look at the=20
spray paint bottles/guns and made a choice based on the spray gun I wish =

to run. So that meant at least the upper part of the consumer lines for=20
the compressor.


e.g.
Spray guns -- each with a spec...
http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=3D401

Stapler and nailer kits -- click on specs and you will see that each gun =

gives an "air spec".
http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=3D193

See the air compressors. For example the 8489 model....

http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=3D195

Specs.... This one is $180 CDN ($150 USD???)and can power most stuff I=20
found....

Very similar to Rigid and dewalt models -- half the price. Probably=20
good for heavy consumer use at least. Similar to General equipment etc...=


Motor 2.5 HP/CV
Air Delivery @ 40 PSI
6.78 SCFM

Air Delivery @ 90 PSI
5.29 SCFM

Tank Size
2 x 2 Gallon

Motor amperage 13.5 Amp.
RPM 3,400

Voltage
60 Hz
Dimensions (LxWxH)
=09
18=94 x 17=94 x 18=94
Weight
=09
62 lbs.
=09


So can't help you specifically, cause you did not even give the class of =

gun/stapler, but this should give you an education...



--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
  #18   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Lee Michaels" wrote in message

A porcer cable, eh?

Is that one of those domstic porcers or is it a veitnamese pot bellied
porcer?


Domestic. Not enough air, they become barbecue.


  #20   Report Post  
Obfuscated
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 15:56:59 +0000, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:


"Ray" wrote in message

What about brazing the hole in the tank or having it welded?


Don't even think about it. Once rusted through, the tank should be trashed.


Agreed. If it was so thin as to actually rust through at one location the
rest of the tank is not far behind.

Bill


  #21   Report Post  
nospambob
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Compressor shop said my tank would require expensive state testing
after welding and buying a replacement would be the way to go.

On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 23:40:46 -0400, Obfuscated
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 15:56:59 +0000, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:


"Ray" wrote in message

What about brazing the hole in the tank or having it welded?


Don't even think about it. Once rusted through, the tank should be trashed.


Agreed. If it was so thin as to actually rust through at one location the
rest of the tank is not far behind.

Bill


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Understanding SAE hose specs The Hurdy Gurdy Man Metalworking 0 April 13th 05 11:30 PM
Reading specs TEX Electronics Repair 2 February 8th 05 12:00 PM
Specs for a VARO R347/s Diode #7739 for Onan AC Generator Hubert Earl Rodenbaugh Jr Electronics Repair 0 September 26th 04 05:20 AM
Phillips Spec(s) Carl West Metalworking 6 September 11th 03 08:58 AM
cable specs for RCA f26071es Jo Hernan Electronics Repair 1 August 30th 03 04:39 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:49 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"