I want to build a handrail for the stairs in my home. The stairs it
will compliment curve over a section appx. six feet long as they rise
to a small landing [ which is perhaps why no handrail was ever fitted
]. The rail will have a cross section of minimum two inches square, so
I think I shall laminated the rail - to substantail to bend. I hope to
use pine wood 8mm thick; because that's avaialble in the stores here
as T&G flooring.

I can work out the radius of the rail as it follows the wall just by
making a takeof from the wall. What I can't picture is the second
radius that has to be molded in to accommodate the stairs as they rise
a total of appx. six feet. I have to hold the wood laminations as they
glue in a compound curve.

I'm sure this has all been done before [ or figured out ], can anyone
point me in the right direction for some info. Please.

Thanks.

John Hewitt, Malaga, Spain

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 17:20:49 +0200, wrote:

I want to build a handrail for the stairs in my home. The stairs it
will compliment curve over a section appx. six feet long as they rise
to a small landing [ which is perhaps why no handrail was ever fitted

I can work out the radius of the rail as it follows the wall just by
making a takeof from the wall. What I can't picture is the second
radius that has to be molded in to accommodate the stairs as they rise
a total of appx. six feet. I have to hold the wood laminations as they
glue in a compound curve.

When we do this in new homes we screw clamping brackets to the
existing treads (or to temp treads if finished treads are to be used)
to which we then clamp the bending rail. This gives you the radius
and correct rise to match that particular stair. We use 10"x10"
metal L shaped brackets that have a stiffener welded at an angle
between the legs.
The problem with bending rail with a rake is that as you clamp up the
rail it needs to twist as it rises. Your not only gluing the pieces
together while making the bend you also have to have enough pressure
to actually put a twist in the rail. It takes a lot of brackets,
clamps and glued up fingers.

Mike O.

Thanks to all for the info and suggestions. Mike O's idea appeals to
me the most - because it's simple enough for me to understand!!

I can weld up brackets, and buy more clamps. However, the stairs are
finished, they are built from masonry / bricks, with marble treads,
wooden nosing's and terra cotta 'like' tile, risers. I don't see how I
can clamp anything to them, without damaging them.

Need to regroup and ponder - over a glass maybe.

Thanks again.

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 21:51:48 -0500, Mike O. wrote:

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 17:20:49 +0200, wrote:

I want to build a handrail for the stairs in my home

When we do this in new homes we screw clamping brackets to the
existing treads (or to temp treads if finished treads are to be used)
to which we then clamp the bending rail. This gives you the radius
and correct rise to match that particular stair. We use 10"x10"
metal L shaped brackets that have a stiffener welded at an angle
between the legs.
The problem with bending rail with a rake is that as you clamp up the
rail it needs to twist as it rises. Your not only gluing the pieces
together while making the bend you also have to have enough pressure
to actually put a twist in the rail. It takes a lot of brackets,
clamps and glued up fingers.

Mike O.

John Hewitt, Malaga, Spain

On Sun, 24 Jul 2005 11:49:14 +0200, wrote:

I can weld up brackets, and buy more clamps. However, the stairs are
finished, they are built from masonry / bricks, with marble treads,
wooden nosing's and terra cotta 'like' tile, risers. I don't see how I
can clamp anything to them, without damaging them.

Since your run is only about 6' you might be able to cheat and use a
flat bend. You might try to make a template out of something that
will stay flat, maybe 1/4" plywood or even a stiff cardboard. Lay it
on your treads and scribe it to the wall. See how that lays on your
treads while avoiding the temptation to push the ends down. My guess
is that as you hold the template down to the noses, on the middle
couple of treads, the template will be a little high at both ends. If
that amount is not too great (no more than 2" or so) you MIGHT be able
to live with it. If the template (laying flat) is close enough, you
could then just glue up a flat bending rail off-site.
You can use the same technique mentioned before but just screw your
brackets to a wood floor somewhere or to a piece of 3/4" plywood. You
might be able to get by with plywood brackets (since the bend is flat)
but that will depend on a lot of factors including thickness of the
strips, species and how much pressure it takes to bend all of the
strips at one time.
Another thing to be aware of is that you will want to bend on the
inside of your arc. That arc will need to be smaller than your
template by the distance to the center of your bracket (from the wall)
plus 1/2 the thickness of your rail.

Mike O.