I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron

I have the WWII, thin kerf (3/32") on my Delta contractor saw, and it works
fine. In fact, I think the thin kerf blade is recommended for contractors
saws, since it requires less power than the 1/8" blade. I have used it
exclusively for 3 years and am completely happy with it.
Paul

"Ron Stitt" wrote in message
news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@t eranews...
I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem,
I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I
will use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron

On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt"
wrote:

I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron

You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
"uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
the thicker blade for most of my applications.

Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt"
wrote:


I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron


You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
"uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
the thicker blade for most of my applications.

Forgive my ignorance, but how does a 3/32" blade "use" more wood than an
1/8" blade???

on 6/29/2005 1:35 PM Phisherman said the following:
On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt"
wrote:


I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron


You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
"uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
the thicker blade for most of my applications.

Really? A 3/32" blade "uses" more wood than a 1/8th" (a/k/a 4/32")blade?

It would really take a keen eye and well set stop block, fence, etc. but
I think you just might be able to do a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade
in two passes with a very minor adjustment of said stop block or fence.g

Otherwise, I agree totally with what you said. As the other poster
mentioned though, with the contractor saw he MIGHT be a bit better off
with the 3/32" thin kerf blade than the standard 1/8" if he's cutting
thicker hardwoods.

Phisherman wrote:

You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
"uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
the thinner blade as it has less deflection.

1/8" is (4) 32nds

Barry

Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt"
wrote:


I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron


You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
"uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
the thicker blade for most of my applications.
Last time I looked at a tape measure, 3/32" was SMALLER than 1/8".

Dave

"Ron Stitt" wrote in message
news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@t eranews...
I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem,
I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I
will use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron

The thin kerfs save a lot of wood. You can probably save enough in a couple
of years to pay your kid's college education. Woodlands will be overgrowing
from the savings on trees.

Seriously, the first blade I bought was a thin kerf Freud Diablo. Newbie
that I was, I used it for probably two years before I realized it was a thin
kerf versus a full kerf.

There is only one downside that I'm aware of, that is cross cutting using a
miter with a scale on the stop. The right side of the blade is up against
the arbor flange and the distance to the fence is the same regardless of
blade. I use an Accu Miter that has a stop and it was set up to use a full
kerf blade. When I change to the thin kerf, it is off by 1/32". Big deal?
Not if I remember, or not if the dimension is not critical. Sometimes the
length is not critical as long as all four legs are the same.

In article , wrote:

You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
"uses" more wood when it cuts.

You misspelled "less".

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Just a follow up. It wasn't Amazon's fault. I looked at the box a little
closer....it was mis-labeled from Forrest. I called Forrest and talked to
one of their teckies. Seems it cuts a little easier, especially for ripping
which is what I do a lot of. I have a RAS for most of my crosscutting. I
have about decided to keep the blade. They said if I sent it back they would
exchange it, didn't offer to pay for the shipping back though.

Ron

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
newsnDwe.16503$fM6.6382@trndny04...

"Ron Stitt" wrote in message
news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@t eranews...
I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem,
I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I
will use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron

The thin kerfs save a lot of wood. You can probably save enough in a
couple of years to pay your kid's college education. Woodlands will be
overgrowing from the savings on trees.

Seriously, the first blade I bought was a thin kerf Freud Diablo. Newbie
that I was, I used it for probably two years before I realized it was a
thin kerf versus a full kerf.

There is only one downside that I'm aware of, that is cross cutting using
a miter with a scale on the stop. The right side of the blade is up
against the arbor flange and the distance to the fence is the same
regardless of blade. I use an Accu Miter that has a stop and it was set
up to use a full kerf blade. When I change to the thin kerf, it is off by
1/32". Big deal? Not if I remember, or not if the dimension is not
critical. Sometimes the length is not critical as long as all four legs
are the same.

You may consider buying the stiffner - Forrest recommends it with the thin
kerf blades.


"Ron Stitt" wrote in message
news:1120082366.66bf293500aef54138eb09fe7b586625@t eranews...
Just a follow up. It wasn't Amazon's fault. I looked at the box a little
closer....it was mis-labeled from Forrest. I called Forrest and talked to
one of their teckies. Seems it cuts a little easier, especially for
ripping which is what I do a lot of. I have a RAS for most of my
crosscutting. I have about decided to keep the blade. They said if I sent
it back they would exchange it, didn't offer to pay for the shipping back
though.

Ron

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
newsnDwe.16503$fM6.6382@trndny04...

"Ron Stitt" wrote in message
news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@t eranews...
I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only
problem, I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down
side of keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I
ordered? I will use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron

The thin kerfs save a lot of wood. You can probably save enough in a
couple of years to pay your kid's college education. Woodlands will be
overgrowing from the savings on trees.

Seriously, the first blade I bought was a thin kerf Freud Diablo. Newbie
that I was, I used it for probably two years before I realized it was a
thin kerf versus a full kerf.

There is only one downside that I'm aware of, that is cross cutting using
a miter with a scale on the stop. The right side of the blade is up
against the arbor flange and the distance to the fence is the same
regardless of blade. I use an Accu Miter that has a stop and it was set
up to use a full kerf blade. When I change to the thin kerf, it is off
by 1/32". Big deal? Not if I remember, or not if the dimension is not
critical. Sometimes the length is not critical as long as all four legs
are the same.

And I'm not talking Viagra!!!

Knew some of the wreckies were going to go there.....

"D Steck" wrote in message
...
You may consider buying the stiffner - Forrest recommends it with the thin
kerf blades.


"Ron Stitt" wrote in message
news:1120082366.66bf293500aef54138eb09fe7b586625@t eranews...
Just a follow up. It wasn't Amazon's fault. I looked at the box a little
closer....it was mis-labeled from Forrest. I called Forrest and talked
to one of their teckies. Seems it cuts a little easier, especially for
ripping which is what I do a lot of. I have a RAS for most of my
crosscutting. I have about decided to keep the blade. They said if I sent
it back they would exchange it, didn't offer to pay for the shipping back
though.

Ron

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
newsnDwe.16503$fM6.6382@trndny04...

"Ron Stitt" wrote in message
news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@t eranews...
I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only
problem, I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down
side of keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I
ordered? I will use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron

The thin kerfs save a lot of wood. You can probably save enough in a
couple of years to pay your kid's college education. Woodlands will be
overgrowing from the savings on trees.

Seriously, the first blade I bought was a thin kerf Freud Diablo.
Newbie that I was, I used it for probably two years before I realized it
was a thin kerf versus a full kerf.

There is only one downside that I'm aware of, that is cross cutting
using a miter with a scale on the stop. The right side of the blade is
up against the arbor flange and the distance to the fence is the same
regardless of blade. I use an Accu Miter that has a stop and it was set
up to use a full kerf blade. When I change to the thin kerf, it is off
by 1/32". Big deal? Not if I remember, or not if the dimension is not
critical. Sometimes the length is not critical as long as all four legs
are the same.

On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 18:41:11 GMT, Brian Kerr
wrote:

Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt"
wrote:


I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron


You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
"uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
the thicker blade for most of my applications.

Forgive my ignorance, but how does a 3/32" blade "use" more wood than an
1/8" blade???

Oops, my mistake! I was tired when I posted this--I transposed the
3/32 and 1/8" !!!

"Ron Stitt" wrote in message

it was mis-labeled from Forrest.

They said if I sent it back they would exchange it, didn't offer to pay
for the shipping back though.

Mistakes happen, but fix them. Free. They should read Lee Valley's
warranty.

"Phisherman" wrote in message

Oops, my mistake! I was tired when I posted this--I transposed the
3/32 and 1/8" !!!

Sort of like when I cut pieces 10 9/16" long and they come out to the little
line on the OTHER side of the half inch mark?

"Phisherman" wrote in message

Oops, my mistake! I was tired when I posted this--I transposed the
3/32 and 1/8" !!!

LOL - just wish it was as easy to fix the cutting of one opposing side of a
drawer 1/2" shorter than the other, AND not even noticing it until you go to
mount the bottom, as it is to fix digital bits.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/05

"B a r r y" wrote in message
...

1/8" is (4) 32nds.

What kind of calculator did you use to arrive at that? I need to know where
to get them.

SH - the "I'm sorry I couldn't resist" woodworker

Ron Stitt wrote:
I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only
problem, I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down
side of keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I
ordered? I will use it on a Delta contractor saw.

Thanks Ron
I have both but always have the 1/8 in the saw unless I am doing lots of
rips from an unmeasured piece of lumber or if the 1/8 is in for
sharpening. Niether of these are really the right choice for xcutting.
Benefits of the 1/8 in my opinion a
easier to calculate multiple cuts when working with a 1/8 kerf
doesn't need a stiffener
gives a cleaner cut face

It may use more power but I have a 3HP Delta and haven't noticed any
problems.

JC