Am currently working on an entertainment center which
I am building into a corner (about 6' x 6') which is adjacent
to the fireplace in our family room. I have most of the "boxes"
built and installed - extends to 11.5 ft above the floor (bookshelves
above the TV area).

Anyway, since I have a lot of face-framing/doors/drawers - not to
mention the oak crown that I will be installing in the entire room,
I thought that I would spring for the Forrest chopmaster blade.

While I was at it, I also got the WWII - and a copy of Charlie Self's
pocket reference book too.

With Amazon's $25 off deal, everything came in just under $200.

Not bad (I guess). I know the book will be great, but these are
my first Forrests - hope that they live up to their reputation.

Lou

In article ,
loutent wrote:

these are
my first Forrests -

Great blades, so I'm told. But please don't use them to cut down every
tree in sight...you know... after a while, you can't see the trees from
Forrest..

"loutent" wrote in message
...
Am currently working on an entertainment center which
I am building into a corner (about 6' x 6') which is adjacent
to the fireplace in our family room. I have most of the "boxes"
built and installed - extends to 11.5 ft above the floor (bookshelves
above the TV area).

Anyway, since I have a lot of face-framing/doors/drawers - not to
mention the oak crown that I will be installing in the entire room,
I thought that I would spring for the Forrest chopmaster blade.

While I was at it, I also got the WWII - and a copy of Charlie Self's
pocket reference book too.

With Amazon's $25 off deal, everything came in just under $200.

Not bad (I guess). I know the book will be great, but these are
my first Forrests - hope that they live up to their reputation.

Lou

First thing I noticed was with the WWII was how quiet it was compared to all
my other blades. The next thing was how smooth the cuts were....you will not
be disappointed.

MikeG

loutent wrote: snipI thought that I would spring for the Forrest
chopmaster blade.


While I was at it, I also got the WWII - and a copy of Charlie Self's
pocket reference book too.


With Amazon's $25 off deal, everything came in just under $200.

Not bad (I guess). snip


Not bad at all.... Tom

loutent wrote:
hope that they live up to their reputation.




They will !!!!

Rich

--
*Remove "nospam" to email
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

I leave my WWII on unless I'm doing Melamine. Then out comes my Freud
Double sided Melamine blade. the freud SD508 also leaves PERFECT edges
when dadoing ANYTHING. When I got the WWII, I was reluctant to leave a
C-note blade on for "everyday" use and then it hit me--what in the hell
would I save it for, so off came the Delta blade. I keep it around
incase I need to cut salvaged wood.

Dave

loutent wrote:

Am currently working on an entertainment center which
I am building into a corner (about 6' x 6') which is adjacent
to the fireplace in our family room. I have most of the "boxes"
built and installed - extends to 11.5 ft above the floor (bookshelves
above the TV area).

Anyway, since I have a lot of face-framing/doors/drawers - not to
mention the oak crown that I will be installing in the entire room,
I thought that I would spring for the Forrest chopmaster blade.

While I was at it, I also got the WWII - and a copy of Charlie Self's
pocket reference book too.

With Amazon's $25 off deal, everything came in just under $200.

Not bad (I guess). I know the book will be great, but these are
my first Forrests - hope that they live up to their reputation.

Lou

In article , David
wrote:

I leave my WWII on unless I'm doing Melamine. Then out comes my Freud
Double sided Melamine blade. the freud SD508 also leaves PERFECT edges
when dadoing ANYTHING. When I got the WWII, I was reluctant to leave a
C-note blade on for "everyday" use and then it hit me--what in the hell
would I save it for, so off came the Delta blade. I keep it around
incase I need to cut salvaged wood.


Hi Dave,

I have the "single sided" Freud melamine/laminate and it does
a pretty good job. Also sprung for the SD508 about 9 months
ago which actually convinced me that spending a little more
on blades is certainly worth the time (and $) saved in frustration
and wasted stock.

I was doing some box joints on cherry a few months ago with the
SD508. I got a little chipout on the backside. Also the "horns"
gave me a little something that I did not expect either. It was about
that point that I thought that the Forrest SD might have been
worth the extra $. Too late now - got to get my use out of the Freud
dado set.

Funny tho, I bought the Freud single sided from Amazon but I actually
ordered the double sided. Didn't realize what I got until it was
too late to return it.

Still a pretty good blade, but I would advise checking the
details when ordering from the big "A".

Lou

"loutent" wrote in message
...
Not bad (I guess). I know the book will be great, but these are
my first Forrests - hope that they live up to their reputation.

Lou

Weeell if you do not see an improvement, you probably have set up problems.

Lou, on the 508, there is an intentional .005+ deeper cut on the outside
to prevent chipping. Once the glue up is done, you shouldn't see the
exposed "batwings" on through dados. What blows me away is how clean
the edges are. If the batwings were easily visible on the ends, I'd not
be too happy; they aren't.

Chipout on the backside or bottom? The backside chipout isn't a
function of the blade quality; you'd need a backer to eliminate it.

Dave

loutent wrote:

In article , David
wrote:


I leave my WWII on unless I'm doing Melamine. Then out comes my Freud
Double sided Melamine blade. the freud SD508 also leaves PERFECT edges
when dadoing ANYTHING. When I got the WWII, I was reluctant to leave a
C-note blade on for "everyday" use and then it hit me--what in the hell
would I save it for, so off came the Delta blade. I keep it around
incase I need to cut salvaged wood.



Hi Dave,

I have the "single sided" Freud melamine/laminate and it does
a pretty good job. Also sprung for the SD508 about 9 months
ago which actually convinced me that spending a little more
on blades is certainly worth the time (and $) saved in frustration
and wasted stock.

I was doing some box joints on cherry a few months ago with the
SD508. I got a little chipout on the backside. Also the "horns"
gave me a little something that I did not expect either. It was about
that point that I thought that the Forrest SD might have been
worth the extra $. Too late now - got to get my use out of the Freud
dado set.

Funny tho, I bought the Freud single sided from Amazon but I actually
ordered the double sided. Didn't realize what I got until it was
too late to return it.

Still a pretty good blade, but I would advise checking the
details when ordering from the big "A".

Lou

On Tue, 21 Jun 2005 23:58:47 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"loutent" wrote in message
...
Not bad (I guess). I know the book will be great, but these are
my first Forrests - hope that they live up to their reputation.

Lou

Weeell if you do not see an improvement, you probably have set up problems.

=========================
I honestly did not see much of an improvement...if any... when I
switched from Frued to a WWII ...

BUT I can tell you that after months of use I did notice that the
Forrest was holding up better then I was used to the frued
doing....and now even months later I keep waiting for it to give me a
hint that it is time to sharpen it...

The difference as far as I can tell is the Forrest is like the
Everready battery...keeps on cut'en

Bob G.

"Bob G." wrote in message

I honestly did not see much of an improvement...if any... when I
switched from Frued to a WWII ...

I felt the same way about the blade that came with my UniSaw a few years
back ... damn good carbide blade that cuts pretty much like the Forrest, but
I have basically used it only when my original Forrest went back for
sharpening, or when I didn't want to chance dinging one of the bread 'n'
butter Forrest blades..

BUT I can tell you that after months of use I did notice that the
Forrest was holding up better then I was used to the frued
doing....and now even months later I keep waiting for it to give me a
hint that it is time to sharpen it...

The difference as far as I can tell is the Forrest is like the
Everready battery...keeps on cut'en

Yep ... I own two WWII's, a Forrest ChopMaster, a high dollar Delta, and a
Freud 'Glue Line Rip' ... all make excellent cuts, but the Forrest' seems to
keep on ticking far beyond any other blade I've used. One of the WWII's has
been back to Forrest twice now and has come back like new each time ...
basically a new blade for 1/3 the price. That, and the consistent quality of
cut, is what makes it well worth the upfront price for my use.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/05

loutent wrote in :

....
Not bad (I guess). I know the book will be great, but these are
my first Forrests - hope that they live up to their reputation.

I've never been sorry that I bought my Forrest WWII early on, and I am a
cheap bast ^H^H^H er, cost-conscious consumer.

On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 07:58:51 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

"Bob G." wrote in message

I honestly did not see much of an improvement...if any... when I
switched from Frued to a WWII ...

I felt the same way about the blade that came with my UniSaw a few years
back ... damn good carbide blade that cuts pretty much like the Forrest, but
I have basically used it only when my original Forrest went back for
sharpening,

"Makes no difference how I carry on
Just please don't talk about me when I'm gone"


Try a CMT when your regular squeeze is out for a tuneup.

I started with one.

Now I have five.








Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)

Got it yesterday.

Took off the gunk today.

Damn thing is real sharp.

Good thing - got some 8/4 oak to go thru.

Lou