I've been asked by a family member to build a butcher's block and as I know
it won't actually be used for cleaving (it's for a BBQ and will be used more
like a bread-board instead) I thought I might be able to pretty it up a bit.

I plan on using 6"x1"x1" lengths, framed and clamped with 1/2" endless
thread. Instead of the traditional method of exposing the end-grain I'd
like to make a chequer-board pattern alternating end- and side-grain. What
I'm concerned about is timber movement as I can see it being left outdoors
for days at a time. I haven't selected the timber yet, it'll probably be
red-gum and/or jarrah as they're cheap here and methinks I'll be a love job.
ie. a wedding anniv. present..

With only 1"x1" will movement be a problem, or would I be better to make it
of alternating 6" and, say, 5 3/4" lengths oriented the normal way and then
inlaying 1/4" thick squares in the ensuing gaps to give the pattern?

I hope I've explained this well enough for someone to follow; reading it
back just confuses me all the more. [sigh]

- Andy

Std Disclaimer: All stated dimensions and materials are subject to change
without notice.

"Andy McArdle" wrote in message
u...
I've been asked by a family member to build a butcher's block and as I
know
it won't actually be used for cleaving (it's for a BBQ and will be used
more
like a bread-board instead) I thought I might be able to pretty it up a
bit.

I plan on using 6"x1"x1" lengths, framed and clamped with 1/2" endless
thread. Instead of the traditional method of exposing the end-grain I'd
like to make a chequer-board pattern alternating end- and side-grain.
What
I'm concerned about is timber movement as I can see it being left outdoors
for days at a time. I haven't selected the timber yet, it'll probably be
red-gum and/or jarrah as they're cheap here and methinks I'll be a love
job.
ie. a wedding anniv. present..

With only 1"x1" will movement be a problem, or would I be better to make
it
of alternating 6" and, say, 5 3/4" lengths oriented the normal way and
then
inlaying 1/4" thick squares in the ensuing gaps to give the pattern?

If you are going to alternate end grain and side grain,....Good Luck.
Movement is going to be totally inconsistent and dependent on the way each
piece of wood is laid.

If you are going to alternate end grain and side grain,....Good Luck.
Movement is going to be totally inconsistent and dependent on the way each
piece of wood is laid.

That's why I'm wondering about using the inlay method. Shrinkage I'm not
overly concerned about, although it would look ugly, but I don't want
expansion to occur and seperate the joints. By my calculations if the
inlays are only 1/4" thick the strength of the rest of that particular
square (some 5 3/4") having the grain parallel should be able to withstand
the pressure generated. But I'm really only guesstimating...

- Andy

"Andy McArdle" wrote in message
u...
If you are going to alternate end grain and side grain,....Good Luck.
Movement is going to be totally inconsistent and dependent on the way
each
piece of wood is laid.

That's why I'm wondering about using the inlay method. Shrinkage I'm not
overly concerned about, although it would look ugly, but I don't want
expansion to occur and seperate the joints. By my calculations if the
inlays are only 1/4" thick the strength of the rest of that particular
square (some 5 3/4") having the grain parallel should be able to withstand
the pressure generated. But I'm really only guesstimating...

IMHO you will be doing a LOT of work for a project that probably will have
results that may not be desirable. Keep in mind that if the board is only
used for cutting bread, it may still be placed under running water for
cleaning and expansion will begin. The inlayed pieces may actually pop out
or swell above the surface.

That's why I'm wondering about using the inlay method. Shrinkage I'm
not
overly concerned about, although it would look ugly, but I don't want
expansion to occur and seperate the joints. By my calculations if the
inlays are only 1/4" thick the strength of the rest of that particular
square (some 5 3/4") having the grain parallel should be able to
withstand
the pressure generated. But I'm really only guesstimating...

IMHO you will be doing a LOT of work for a project that probably will
have
results that may not be desirable. Keep in mind that if the board is only
used for cutting bread, it may still be placed under running water for
cleaning and expansion will begin. The inlayed pieces may actually pop
out
or swell above the surface.

This will be a butcher's block in all senses of the word. Think of it as 6"
long x 1"sq beams bundled together into a roughly 2' square block and
permanently mounted on 4x4 legs, possibly mounted on castors. If his missus
can fit this into a sink she's a better man than I! G

But I take your point. It will very probably be rained on, possibly be
hosed down, and I hadn't given any thought to the inlays popping out.
Breaking the glue joints, yes, but popping out, no. I'm glad you mentioned
it before I decided to go ahead; they're going to get a block that doesn't
look as "pretty" but will be functional. Like most things I make! [sigh]

Thanks for saving me from a big mistake,

- Andy

In article ,
Andy McArdle wrote:
I've been asked by a family member to build a butcher's block .....

"First, catch a butcher...."

You'll need at least a DJ-30 for the initial prep.
Place on the in-feed table, chest down, and make a pass across the cutters.
This is "face" joining.

Squaring up the sides, is best done with hand tools -- a 'shoulder' plane.

On the back side, you don't have to do a lot of work. two legs are
already attached, with a butt joint.

Further details would be counter-productive -- let your imagination run wild!