Hi,

I don't remember seeing pics of the new Veritas honing guide posted
here. I found the links on www.ukworkshop.co.uk posted by Rob Lee

http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/hg1.jpg
http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/hg2.jpg
http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/hg3.jpg

It looks like a great guide if you are not using back bevels. But what
strikes me is the guide is designed to make a low angle back bevel as
well as regular bevels. But if you are sharpening with this jig and
using a back bevel then how do you switch between the the two bevels to
progress through the grits? I think you have to continually flip the
blade in the guide or work one side to the final grit and then switch
once to work the other side through the grits. But what about removing
the wire edge at each stage? Then you would have to continually flip
the blade in the guide. Any ideas?

Peter

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What I've learned about sharpening plane blades
http://members.shaw.ca/petermichaux/...harpening.html

May 8, 12:09 am Newsgroups:
rec.woodworking
From: - Find messages by this author
Date: 7 May 2005 Hi,


I don't remember seeing pics of the new Veritas honing guide posted
here. I found the links on www.ukworkshop.co.uk posted by Rob Lee


http://www.leevalley.com/home/=ADtemprl/hg1.jpg
http://www.leevalley.com/home/=ADtemprl/hg2.jpg
http://www.leevalley.com/home/=ADtemprl/hg3.jpg


It looks like a great guide if you are not using back bevels. But what
strikes me is the guide is designed to make a low angle back bevel as
well as regular bevels. But if you are sharpening with this jig and
using a back bevel then how do you switch between the the two bevels to

progress through the grits? I think you have to continually flip the
blade in the guide or work one side to the final grit and then switch
once to work the other side through the grits. But what about removing
the wire edge at each stage? Then you would have to continually flip
the blade in the guide. Any ideas? snip



I think that back bevel is best put on at or near the end stage... and
I'd "dewire" clear at the final grit. Tom.

Thanks Pete, really cool to see those pics!

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Here is an actual picture

http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/mkll-1.jpg

------------------------------ ------------------------------
------------------------------ --------------
What I've learned about sharpening plane blades
http://members.shaw.ca/petermichaux/...harpening.html

wrote in news:1115579814.366179.80590
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/mkll-1.jpg

Awww....now I have to upgrade :-)
Doesn't seem to have a fence to help keep the blade perpendicular
so you don't sharpen the blade at an angle though (only real complaint
I have w/ the Mk-1)...


ken

Awww....now I have to upgrade :-)
Doesn't seem to have a fence to help keep the blade perpendicular
so you don't sharpen the blade at an angle though (only real complaint
I have w/ the Mk-1)...

ken


Mr. Lee as I remember, did mention that all problems with the Mk. I are covered
in the Mk. II. But this one will probably cost a bundle.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"Ken Yee" wrote in message
. 47.166...
wrote in news:1115579814.366179.80590
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/mkll-1.jpg

Awww....now I have to upgrade :-)
Doesn't seem to have a fence to help keep the blade perpendicular
so you don't sharpen the blade at an angle though (only real complaint
I have w/ the Mk-1)...


ken

Hi Ken -

You can't see it in that shot... it's on the underside of the
projection/registration jig....

Cheers -

Rob

"Robin Lee" wrote in news:90Ife.13323$B82.291175
@news20.bellglobal.com:

You can't see it in that shot... it's on the underside of the
projection/registration jig....

Oh no! Now I have to upgrade :-P
Any idea what it's going to cost?


ken

In another thread Rob Lee wrote

The new honing guide is on the back cover of the catalog mailing May
23rd...
$48.50 ($12.00 more than the old one)...

On 9 May 2005 12:20:24 -0700, wrote:

In another thread Rob Lee wrote

The new honing guide is on the back cover of the catalog mailing May
23rd...
$48.50 ($12.00 more than the old one)...

Would be great if those of us with the older, fidgety honer were
offered some sort of trade-in deal.

"Scrub" wrote in message
...
On 9 May 2005 12:20:24 -0700, wrote:

In another thread Rob Lee wrote

The new honing guide is on the back cover of the catalog mailing May
23rd...
$48.50 ($12.00 more than the old one)...

Would be great if those of us with the older, fidgety honer were
offered some sort of trade-in deal.

Hi -

Believe it or not - we discussed that here, but the only way we could do it,
would be to pad the price so we'd have room to discount it. Then again -
it's not as much of an upgrade, as it is a new tool.

As we've produced the other for more than two decades - it's tough to eat
the loss on a trade in deal...

But we'll re-consider if we change it again 25 years from now....

Cheers -

Rob

"Robin Lee" wrote in message
. ..

"Scrub" wrote in message
...
On 9 May 2005 12:20:24 -0700, wrote:

In another thread Rob Lee wrote

The new honing guide is on the back cover of the catalog mailing May
23rd...
$48.50 ($12.00 more than the old one)...

Is this guide on your website anywhere? I don't want to wait another ten
days plus mailing to see it.

- Owen -