I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

Bill Waller wrote:
I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA



I just saw some nice work in Ash. It was very nice free-standing
cabinet, medium dark stain, machined dovetails. Country style furniture.
It looked nice to me.

Someone posted a link to the wood handbook -- you might check there.

--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

In article ,
Bill Waller wrote:

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA



Keep in mind that transporting ash is heavily restricted in some areas.
Michigan comes to mind. Has to do with the spread of the ash boring
beetle. They are levelling stands all over SW Ontario as well. The
woodpeckers are enjoying those beetles and as a result there is a noted
increase of woodpeckers in the area helping with the control.

Ash....

A lot of 'Grand Rapids' style furniture from the early 1900's was not
oak, but ash. That was one of the reasons that they applied almost
paint-like heavy dark stains. Treated that way, it is hard to tell them
apart. Works a lot like oak.

"Bill Waller" wrote in message
...
I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I
have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel
handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.

Buy it fast.
Ash is among the cheaper woods, but $0.40 a bf is too good to pass.
Ash works and stains well. It is not a particularly dramatic wood, but
still looks good.

In article ,
Bill Waller wrote:

I like ash. Some years ago I build a dining table and six chairs of
ash. The wood is easy to work. I takes a nice finish. It is strong
and yet light. Some pieces have an attractive figure.

Dick

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 12:12:15 -0400, Bill Waller
wrote:

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



For 0.40 / BF -- go for it. Ash is nice to work, as others have said it
can make nice furniture, or it makes a good secondary wood for drawer
sides, backs, etc.


____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA





+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 12:12:15 -0400, Bill Waller
wrote:

It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I'm not entirely sure here, because ash (like walnut and beech) is a
nicer timber in the UK than in the USA. OTOH, our maple sucks.

I really like ash. It's not a first grade timber for really high-end
work, but it's nice for more rustic stuff.

If you stain it you can fake oak with it - this was commonly done early
last century, particularly for visible secondary wood, such as the rear
legs of a dresser (front legs, top and drawer fronts in oak). being
ring porous it looks better on the impressive flat-sawn surfaces, rather
than quarter sawn (where it merely looks untidy). There's no ray flake
pattern, as for oak, so this was sometimes painted on in "better" faked
work.

I prefer ash though if it's finished light, with the minimum of
colouring. This works better with english ash (F. excelsior) as it's
paler to begin with. A good finish for rustic turned work, such as
Windsor chairs, is to melt some brown ochre into soft beeswax polish,
then brush that firmly into the well-sanded timber. Finish with dry
brushing the wax once all solvent has dried, then go over it again with
a clear hard wax. Because ash is ring porous, the coloured wax sticks in
the rings and highlights them, but buffs right off the non-porous
timber.

--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 12:12:15 -0400, Bill Waller
wrote:

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA




Be a little careful with this.

If it's northern grown white ash where the winters are pretty cold it
is a good buy.

There's been a problem for a number of years with "ash yellows" which
has reduced the harvest, particularly along the natural borders of the
white ash range.

There's green and brown ash that works different than the white and is
not as valuable.

IIRC correctly there are more than fifty species of ash growing in NA
and it would help to know which species it is.


If it's white ash and not punky, it'll work very much the same as
white oak and is often blended with or substituted for quercus alba.

Makes good tools handles and baseball bats but will look good in a
situation that usually calls for white oak. I don't know if it has
the tannin content of WO and so don't know if you can finish it
exactly the same in all conditions.



Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)

Nice wood, I like it. But it doesn't like me much, I get a cough for
2-3 weeks after I make anything with it. My dust collector looks a
lot like the floor of my garage, and my air filter is a window fan
with a furnace filter in front it. Bad housekeeping, in other words.

But I don't get the same reaction from any other woods.


-Dan V.


On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 12:12:15 -0400, Bill Waller
wrote:

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 12:12:15 -0400, Bill Waller
wrote:

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA



It is used to make baseball bats, bannisters, handles, boatbuilding,
furniture and steam-bends exceptionally well. It doesn't have the
highest workability, but it does have a nice straight grain. Finishes
well, but you'll need to test how well it stains. I have made fish
net frames from steamed/bent ash.

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 12:12:15 -0400, Bill Waller
wrote:

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

It's definately useable. It handles like really, really dry pine-
meaning it's easy on tools, can be dented if you're not careful, and
it splinters rather than chips if you make a mistake. On the bright
side, it is not all full of sap, and it really is a nice looking wood.

I haven't tried staining it, but I did ebonize some with india ink,
and it soaked that up really well. I also made a wooden arrowhead
plaque for my father for his birthday (he's a big cowboy buff), and
burned the edges with the torch before my wife woodburned it. It's
really kind of fun to burn- the grain gets dark very quickly, and it
makes a beautiful contrast with the rest of the wood.

The most common application for it I've seen in these parts is trim.
Usually it just gets a clearcoat, and it's quite striking.

For 40 cents a bf, it's a steal. I think I paid $2.25/bf for it the
last time I bought it.


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 12:12:15 -0400, Bill Waller
wrote:

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I
have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel
handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

It's definately useable.

For 40 cents a bf, it's a steal. I think I paid $2.25/bf for it the
last time I bought it.


All kinds of ash, of course, as mentioned. All kinds of figure in ash as
well. We even have exotics like English ash, which makes lumber inferior
in every way to the domestic varieties, planted in cities.

Now, fresh cut log run stuff isn't worth anything near two bucks, but would
seem worth half a buck. At worst, you've got some heavy, cheap, secondary
wood. At best, you've got some figured stuff that takes a dye and holds a
finish well.

"White" ash is about the driest domestic hardwood in the log, but you still
might want to consult
http://www.firstgov.gov/fgsearch/res.../fplgtr117.pdf
or other on stickering, stacking, and caring for your stash.

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 12:12:15 -0400, Bill Waller wrote:

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA



IMHO, I'd rather work ash than oak.. especially if you do any wood turning..
Ash is sort of treated like oaks "red headed step son", but I find that it cuts,
saws, stains, finishes, etc. as well as oak, ad with less splinters..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

One man's opinion...and it's an OPINION only, but I don't care for ash.
(Don't like oak either, so there you go.)

If you want a nice "blonde" wood, it's great. But if you want to stain it,
don't bother. You know that really offensive (to ME!) (gotta put in those
qualifiers, you know?) way that oak takes stains? Makes the grain so
pronounced that all you can see is grain GRAIN GRAIN? Well ash is worse.

On top of that, it doesn't take dye well at all, and oil-based pigment is
what makes it look like oak from hell.

If you can take some quarter-sawn pieces off, it might not be so bad, but
you gotta ask yourself, just how bad do you want your furniture to look like
zebras?

You could try filling the pores and glazing/toning it, but even that doesn't
come out particularly well.

HOWEVER, I agree with everyone that, for backers and utility wood, it's
decent. And for .40 a board foot...hell I'd by ANYTHING for .40 a board
foot.

No flames guys...just one man's opinion!!




"Bill Waller" wrote in message
...
I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I
have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel
handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 12:12:15 -0400, Bill Waller wrote:

I have been offered about 500 bd ft of 4 qtr rough sawn ash for $200. I have
never worked with ash before. It is a usable wood (other the shovel handles)?
How easily does it work? Does it take stain?

I do have a planer and jointer.



I would like to thank you all for the input. I went to the guy's "farm" and
picked up my first load...I only have an F-150. Hopefully, I will be able to
get back down there later today and get the second load. The third will have to
wait until later this week.

The next step will be to set it up for drying. Maybe, by August, I can start
planing. That should be a whole lot of fun. I think I will perform that little
operation out in the driveway. :-)


____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

"Bill Waller" wrote in message

The next step will be to set it up for drying. Maybe, by August, I can
start
planing. That should be a whole lot of fun. I think I will perform that
little
operation out in the driveway. :-)

Planning on flaunting your gloat to all the rest of the woodworkers on the
street?

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 08:59:31 -0400, "Upscale" wrote:

"Bill Waller" wrote in message

The next step will be to set it up for drying. Maybe, by August, I can
start
planing. That should be a whole lot of fun. I think I will perform that
little
operation out in the driveway. :-)

Planning on flaunting your gloat to all the rest of the woodworkers on the
street?

Okay, you got me...a little of both. :-)
____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 10:45:14 -0400, Bill Waller wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 08:59:31 -0400, "Upscale" wrote:

"Bill Waller" wrote in message

The next step will be to set it up for drying. Maybe, by August, I can
start
planing. That should be a whole lot of fun. I think I will perform that
little
operation out in the driveway. :-)

Planning on flaunting your gloat to all the rest of the woodworkers on the
street?

Okay, you got me...a little of both. :-)
____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA



ahh... nothing like bragging to the neighbors about a nice piece of ash..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 08:24:54 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 10:45:14 -0400, Bill Waller wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 08:59:31 -0400, "Upscale" wrote:

"Bill Waller" wrote in message

The next step will be to set it up for drying. Maybe, by August, I can
start
planing. That should be a whole lot of fun. I think I will perform that
little
operation out in the driveway. :-)

Planning on flaunting your gloat to all the rest of the woodworkers on the
street?

Okay, you got me...a little of both. :-)

ahh... nothing like bragging to the neighbors about a nice piece of ash..



mac

You bet your ash...
Sorry, I just couldn't resist.

....and it looks a lot better today, without all the snow and rain on it. :-)

____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

Makes good tools handles and baseball bats but will look good in a
situation that usually calls for white oak. I don't know if it has
the tannin content of WO and so don't know if you can finish it
exactly the same in all conditions.


Just out of curiosity, I tried to fume some ash with ammonia, and it has
virtually no tannins in it. I'd read this prior to trying it, but while I
was trying some other pieces, I thought I'd throw some ash in the fumer.

I tried one control piece and one with tannic acid brushed on, and the
control piece darkened not a whit. The piece brushed with tannic acid
turned a kind of foul brown...not 'xactly what I'd call purdy.

On 2005-04-26, Mark Cooper wrote:
Makes good tools handles and baseball bats but will look good in a
situation that usually calls for white oak. I don't know if it has
the tannin content of WO and so don't know if you can finish it
exactly the same in all conditions.


Just out of curiosity, I tried to fume some ash with ammonia, and it has
virtually no tannins in it. I'd read this prior to trying it, but while I
was trying some other pieces, I thought I'd throw some ash in the fumer.

I tried one control piece and one with tannic acid brushed on, and the
control piece darkened not a whit. The piece brushed with tannic acid
turned a kind of foul brown...not 'xactly what I'd call purdy.

Even oak won't look all that nice just out of the fumer. Put on a few
coats of garnet shellac and see how it looks. Follow with dark Briwax.

--
I can find no modern furniture that is as well designed and emotionally
satisfying as that made by the Arts and Crafts movement in the early years
of the last century.