Still waiting and drooling until March for mine, but the complaints about
motor shafts keep gnawing on me. I notice from the manual that the cam
tensioner is nearest the motor, while the most-used pulleys - for me anyway,
are at the other end. Anyone reverse the pulley cones? Seems it might be
easier on the motor shaft than giving all that leverage, and the 1 1/4"
shaft can certainly take a greater load than a 5/8".

So - anyone do it? Are the pulleys even configured such that they can be
reversed? Seems ambiguous from the parts diagram.

You might want to check over on the Nova users group:

http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners

Stuart

In article , "George" george@least wrote:
Still waiting and drooling until March for mine, but the complaints about
motor shafts keep gnawing on me. I notice from the manual that the cam
tensioner is nearest the motor, while the most-used pulleys - for me anyway,
are at the other end. Anyone reverse the pulley cones? Seems it might be
easier on the motor shaft than giving all that leverage, and the 1 1/4"
shaft can certainly take a greater load than a 5/8".

So - anyone do it? Are the pulleys even configured such that they can be
reversed? Seems ambiguous from the parts diagram.

George,

I put them on the regular way and have had no problem. You don't
really need to (nor should you) crank the cam tightener down as hard as
you can. You just snug it up enough so that there is no belt
vibration. There really isnt that much lateral pressure. The motor
shaft problems that you may have heard about were on the Leisen
(spelling) variable speed motors. For some unknown reason those had a
groove in the shaft just outside the motor housing. That caused a weak
point and thus possibility of failure (at least that seemed to be the
consensus).

Larry

Thanks. Never really caught that, and Google's about worthless now.

Sounds like the shaft was made for a circlip, eh?

"ebd" wrote in message
oups.com...

George,

I put them on the regular way and have had no problem. You don't
really need to (nor should you) crank the cam tightener down as hard as
you can. You just snug it up enough so that there is no belt
vibration. There really isnt that much lateral pressure. The motor
shaft problems that you may have heard about were on the Leisen
(spelling) variable speed motors. For some unknown reason those had a
groove in the shaft just outside the motor housing. That caused a weak
point and thus possibility of failure (at least that seemed to be the
consensus).

Larry

Yes, I've read them, but you've gotta sell your soul to Bill gates to ask a
question there. My previous series of experiences with MSN finally demanded
about two hours of registry work, so I shy away.

"Stuart Johnson" wrote in message
ink.net...
You might want to check over on the Nova users group:

http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners

Stuart

George wrote:
Still waiting and drooling until March for mine, but the complaints about
motor shafts keep gnawing on me. I notice from the manual that the cam
tensioner is nearest the motor, while the most-used pulleys - for me anyway,
are at the other end.

I have never tried taking the pulleys off the spindle but it looks possible.

However, I have never found the slowest belt settings to be much use. My
feeling is that the last two pulleys on the motor shaft are way too
small and they do not create enough 'bite' to be able to drive the belt
without slipping. This is especially so on large unroughed pieces of
work that you need to be able to drive slowly and be able to cope with
the percussive effect of roughing down, which of course is just where
one would use those belt positions.

It has always been my contention that this, coupled with the leverage
problem you have already identified, is part of the problem of the
snapping drive shafts. If the belt slips, as it tends to do on those
last two positions, the temptation is to apply more tension on the cam,
which of course puts more stress on the motor spindle.

If you were relying on being able to use those belt settings for your
turning, I think I would seek further advise before buying this lathe.
Personally I have never found it a problem and have always been able to
use a faster belt setting and slow down with the DC motor. But most of
my work is small. Overall I am very happy with this lathe, but if you
plan on doing a lot of turnings at the limit of its capacity, you may
want to think again. Thats probably true for any lathe.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/

"ebd" wrote in message
oups.com...

George,

I put them on the regular way and have had no problem. You don't
really need to (nor should you) crank the cam tightener down as hard as
you can. You just snug it up enough so that there is no belt
vibration. There really isnt that much lateral pressure. The motor
shaft problems that you may have heard about were on the Leisen
(spelling) variable speed motors. For some unknown reason those had a
groove in the shaft just outside the motor housing. That caused a weak
point and thus possibility of failure (at least that seemed to be the
consensus).

Larry

This is a quote from James Barley:

Sorry I can't offer any help with your problem, but the one point I'd like
to mention is that, I had a Nova with a "Baldor" 1hpDC motor, and it broke
it's shaft. I've heard since that this lathe, which is no longer with me,
has suffered the same fate, again, with a "Baldor" 1hpDC mototr.
So the broken shaft problem isn't isolated to Leeson motors.

End Quote!

It would seem that you are incorrect about the type of motors only being
Leesons Larry.

Now for additional points might I suggest to those interested......Do a
google search for broken motor shafts from ANY other lathe manufacturer.
Hmmmmmm ........

Precisely the reason I don't post there, either.
Lyn

George wrote:
Yes, I've read them, but you've gotta sell your soul to Bill gates to ask a
question there. My previous series of experiences with MSN finally demanded
about two hours of registry work, so I shy away.

"Stuart Johnson" wrote in message
ink.net...

You might want to check over on the Nova users group:

http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners

Stuart

"Derek Andrews" wrote in message
...

However, I have never found the slowest belt settings to be much use. My
feeling is that the last two pulleys on the motor shaft are way too
small and they do not create enough 'bite' to be able to drive the belt
without slipping. This is especially so on large unroughed pieces of
work that you need to be able to drive slowly and be able to cope with
the percussive effect of roughing down, which of course is just where
one would use those belt positions.

It has always been my contention that this, coupled with the leverage
problem you have already identified, is part of the problem of the
snapping drive shafts. If the belt slips, as it tends to do on those
last two positions, the temptation is to apply more tension on the cam,
which of course puts more stress on the motor spindle.

If you were relying on being able to use those belt settings for your
turning, I think I would seek further advise before buying this lathe.
Personally I have never found it a problem and have always been able to
use a faster belt setting and slow down with the DC motor. But most of
my work is small. Overall I am very happy with this lathe, but if you
plan on doing a lot of turnings at the limit of its capacity, you may
want to think again. Thats probably true for any lathe.


The purchase is made, so no backing out. The pulleys will, if possible, be
reversed. I do fear it may prove impossible, though. Doesn't take a
mechanical engineer to see that the motor mounting/tensioning doesn't favor
the low end. If it were possible, clever people would have done it already.
Of course, there's a chance Teknatool may help out, too.

I'm able to swing 1/2" wide shavings when roughing off stuff on a 3/4 HP
Delta with a V belt tensioned by motor weight only, so I should be able to
do fairly well with a flat belt, I should think. Since I rough from the
center outward, rather than the edge, the "percussive" effect on me and the
lathe is minimal. Even 360 will give me less radial speed on a 16" piece
than I'm presently capable of with Ol' Blue and a 12" piece.

With his more robust construction, I suspect Blue'll still get more of a
workout than the new (used) lathe, but the price was right, and my 2035 ,
which I was to get when the last kid graduated, has faded into the future
due to a thing called graduate school....

"George" wrote: (clip) Sounds like the shaft was made for a circlip, eh?
^^^^^^^^^^^^
The one and only failed motor shaft I actually saw had a keyway ending just
next to the motor bearing. The shaft broke just where the keyway ended.
The plausible explanation is this: 1.) the bending is maximum there, 2.)
The corner of the keyway acts as a stress raiser, 3.) A rotating shaft in
bending goes through cyclical stress, resulting in possible fatigue failure.

The idea of reversing the pulleys makes a lot of sense (if it is possible.)

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"George" wrote: (clip) Sounds like the shaft was made for a circlip, eh?
^^^^^^^^^^^^
The one and only failed motor shaft I actually saw had a keyway ending
just
next to the motor bearing. The shaft broke just where the keyway ended.
The plausible explanation is this: 1.) the bending is maximum there, 2.)
The corner of the keyway acts as a stress raiser, 3.) A rotating shaft in
bending goes through cyclical stress, resulting in possible fatigue
failure.

The idea of reversing the pulleys makes a lot of sense (if it is
possible.)



Imagine the shafts are only case-hardened to help keep grub screws from
digging in excessively. Otherwise, cold-rolled soft stuff? It's that d*mn
mechanical advantage stuff again. Seems all the antiques I've seen - and
the one I own - have the small end nearest the motor.

Oh well, we shall see.

I snapped the shaft on a "Wek" brand 3 phase motor I bought new 1 year and
2 weeks before. Guess when the warranty ran out...

No groove on this shaft.

Ron Williams
MinnDak Woodturners
Moorhead, MN
"ebd" wrote in message
oups.com...

George,

I put them on the regular way and have had no problem. You don't
really need to (nor should you) crank the cam tightener down as hard as
you can. You just snug it up enough so that there is no belt
vibration. There really isnt that much lateral pressure. The motor
shaft problems that you may have heard about were on the Leisen
(spelling) variable speed motors. For some unknown reason those had a
groove in the shaft just outside the motor housing. That caused a weak
point and thus possibility of failure (at least that seemed to be the
consensus).

Larry

snipHowever, I have never found the slowest belt settings to be much
use. My
feeling is that the last two pulleys on the motor shaft are way too
small and they do not create enough 'bite' to be able to drive the belt

without slipping.snip

I do find the slowest setting to be very useful. Especially with
large, somewhat out of true blanks. I've never experienced slipping
and I only snug the belt down. I've never had a problem. Perhaps
you're trying to take too much off at a time or your edge isn't sharp
enough.

I broke two motor shafts in exactly the same place,at the face of the
motor.Both motors I broke were Leeson DC.To me, the reason is the design of
the motor mount,coupled with the long body of the motor create a "rocking
"effect at the pulley and this constant movement eventually snaps the
shaft.Before moving up to the dvr I had a period with an old Baldor farm
duty motor and had absolutely no problem.The person I sold it too has had
this same setup for about three years now with no problems.Thanks,Rick
"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Still waiting and drooling until March for mine, but the complaints about
motor shafts keep gnawing on me. I notice from the manual that the cam
tensioner is nearest the motor, while the most-used pulleys - for me
anyway,
are at the other end. Anyone reverse the pulley cones? Seems it might be
easier on the motor shaft than giving all that leverage, and the 1 1/4"
shaft can certainly take a greater load than a 5/8".

So - anyone do it? Are the pulleys even configured such that they can be
reversed? Seems ambiguous from the parts diagram.