At what point during the process would I drill the hole in the bottom of
the pieces for the weights? Initially, then turn 'around' the hole I
drill in it? I don't have a chuck to hold it with (Jet mini) so
logic(?) says to do it before I turn. If I wait until its all turned
and sanded I'll scratch it up trying to hold it for the drill press or
hand drill.

I just got some really nice dried solid cherry branches from a friend
who's tree died and I don't want to screw them all up.

Grandpa John

Drill 3/8" hole 1/2" deep. Mount scrap on face plate and turn flat and
1/8" larger than faceplate. Drill 3/8" hole in center of faceplate and glue
a 3/8" dowel with 3/8" protruding. Using hot melt glue, glue stock on
faceplate. When finished turning part off 1/4". Hot melt works
surprising well.

--
Art Ransom
Lancaster , Texas

www.turningaround.org
"John DeBoo" wrote in message
...
At what point during the process would I drill the hole in the bottom of
the pieces for the weights? Initially, then turn 'around' the hole I
drill in it? I don't have a chuck to hold it with (Jet mini) so logic(?)
says to do it before I turn. If I wait until its all turned and sanded
I'll scratch it up trying to hold it for the drill press or hand drill.

I just got some really nice dried solid cherry branches from a friend
who's tree died and I don't want to screw them all up.

Grandpa John

I bore the holes after the pieces are complete. My sets have various
diameters at the bottom. I took a 2x4, bored holes , sliced in half
along the long side. Then bored a hole on each end for a bolt and wing
nut. Place the chess piece in the jig ,tighten wing nuts ,bore on drill
press.When you slice the 2x4 in half you slightly reduce the hole
diameter, this helps hold the pieces tight.
I punch 1/4" holes in sheet lead with a whitney punch.I bore the
bottoms with a brad point bit a fraction larger. Drop lead into hole
and tap it with a 1/4" punch.Depending on the length of the chess
pieces I usually bore from 3/4" to 1 1/4" deep.
Bore the holes in the jig with forstner bits, you will get clean holes
that will not scratch the chessmen.
mike

At what point during the process would I drill the hole in the bottom of
the pieces for the weights? Initially, then turn 'around' the hole I
drill in it? I don't have a chuck to hold it with (Jet mini) so
logic(?)
says to do it before I turn. If I wait until its all turned and sanded
I'll scratch it up trying to hold it for the drill press or hand drill.

You could use Art's approach with the face plate and 3/8" dowel but then
convert it into a pin chuck. For a description of a pin chuck check Fred
Holder's page at http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/tips.htm The description
of a pin chuck is near the bottom of the page.

Thanks for the ideas guys, a couple good ones that I'll definately try.
Thanx again,
Grandpa John

John DeBoo wrote:

At what point during the process would I drill the hole in the bottom of
the pieces for the weights? Initially, then turn 'around' the hole I
drill in it? I don't have a chuck to hold it with (Jet mini) so
logic(?) says to do it before I turn. If I wait until its all turned
and sanded I'll scratch it up trying to hold it for the drill press or
hand drill.

I just got some really nice dried solid cherry branches from a friend
who's tree died and I don't want to screw them all up.

Grandpa John