Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters.

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  #1   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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Default sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes

I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I
think are called jars or covered jars here???

Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok?

I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like
several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would
roughly 2" or so in diameter...
My question is how do you hold the little buggers??
They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying
to turn them on a screw center...
I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions?
  #2   Report Post  
Denis Marier
 
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Check http://www.turningtools.co.uk/projects/box/box.html.

Brian Clifford gives full detailed instructions on how to make a box with a lid.
My chuck compresses to 1 5/8" outside diameter and I have no problem with 2" outside diameter blanks



"mac davis" wrote in message ...
I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I
think are called jars or covered jars here???

Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok?

I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like
several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would
roughly 2" or so in diameter...
My question is how do you hold the little buggers??
They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying
to turn them on a screw center...
I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions?

  #3   Report Post  
Leo Van Der Loo
 
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Hi Mac

I assume you do not have a lathe chuck, and the firewood will be turned
not plank wise but lengthwise, I would not use a screw in that case, and
turn the chunks into cylinders between centers, then screw a disk to
your face plate and turn a flat bottom depression in that will fit your
smallest cylinder, glue the piece in and turn your box, part off, cut or
scrape out the depression to fit your next cylinder, etc.
If you use dry wood you can glue it in with hot glue, whenever I have
used hot glue I always used my propane torch to heat the wood then put
on the glue.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:
I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I
think are called jars or covered jars here???

Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok?

I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like
several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would
roughly 2" or so in diameter...
My question is how do you hold the little buggers??
They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying
to turn them on a screw center...
I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions?


  #4   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 21:46:52 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:

Hi Mac

I assume you do not have a lathe chuck, and the firewood will be turned
not plank wise but lengthwise, I would not use a screw in that case, and
turn the chunks into cylinders between centers, then screw a disk to
your face plate and turn a flat bottom depression in that will fit your
smallest cylinder, glue the piece in and turn your box, part off, cut or
scrape out the depression to fit your next cylinder, etc.
If you use dry wood you can glue it in with hot glue, whenever I have
used hot glue I always used my propane torch to heat the wood then put
on the glue.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

ok.. I think from the 2 replies, I need a chuck..
you're right about the length.. right now I'm turning the branches
between centers with a spur to get the blanks round...
Next I'll cut them roughly to length and then the problem occurs..
(years of Shopsmith use have made me a "plan ahead" kinda guy)

I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31223


  #5   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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On 5 Dec 2004 04:58:21 GMT, Bruce Barnett
wrote:

mac davis writes:

I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I
think are called jars or covered jars here???


Some call them treen...

They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying
to turn them on a screw center...
I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions?


Beall Tools has a special mandrel for turning small boxes.
You drill a 1 1/4" hole in the stock, and then insert the mandrel.

http://www.bealltool.com/treen.htm

One down side is that the inside diameter is fixed. You can get it
from Woodcraft, etc. But make sure you get the Morse Taper adapter
and consider the Treen Mandrel convertor. I think Lee Valley had the
best package, last I checked, because the $15 convertor was included.


interesting concept, though a little pricey and I'm not sure how it
would mount to the present lathe.. (shopsmith)

I'm still wondering if a chuck would be the way to go..


  #6   Report Post  
Jim Gott
 
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I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551
BRBR


I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking
chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at
Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and
specifically at the following link

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n
ova-midi-chuck

to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck
for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've
seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck.

As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full
circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the
Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA
  #7   Report Post  
william_b_noble
 
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the recommendation to use a glue block will solve your immediate problem -
and save you a lot of $$ over a chuck. but a decent chuck is a great thing
to have - figure on spending a couple of hundred $$


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On 5 Dec 2004 04:58:21 GMT, Bruce Barnett
wrote:

mac davis writes:

I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I
think are called jars or covered jars here???


I'm still wondering if a chuck would be the way to go..



  #8   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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Default

On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote:


I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551
BRBR


I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking
chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at
Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and
specifically at the following link

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n
ova-midi-chuck

to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck
for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've
seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck.

As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full
circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the
Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA


that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget...
I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I
could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol

  #9   Report Post  
Leo Van Der Loo
 
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Mac don't touch with a 10 foot pole

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 21:46:52 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:


Hi Mac

I assume you do not have a lathe chuck, and the firewood will be turned
not plank wise but lengthwise, I would not use a screw in that case, and
turn the chunks into cylinders between centers, then screw a disk to
your face plate and turn a flat bottom depression in that will fit your
smallest cylinder, glue the piece in and turn your box, part off, cut or
scrape out the depression to fit your next cylinder, etc.
If you use dry wood you can glue it in with hot glue, whenever I have
used hot glue I always used my propane torch to heat the wood then put
on the glue.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


ok.. I think from the 2 replies, I need a chuck..
you're right about the length.. right now I'm turning the branches
between centers with a spur to get the blanks round...
Next I'll cut them roughly to length and then the problem occurs..
(years of Shopsmith use have made me a "plan ahead" kinda guy)

I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31223



  #10   Report Post  
Rick Spivey
 
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Default

I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold
anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head.

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote:


I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551
BRBR


I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a
metalworking
chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look
at
Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look
like, and
specifically at the following link

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n
ova-midi-chuck

to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced
chuck
for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck
I've
seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck.

As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a
full
circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is
the
Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA


that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget...
I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I
could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol





  #11   Report Post  
George
 
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Default

You can also make a split collet chuck for your faceplate. End grain hard
wood, four slits, and a groove to accommodate a hose clamp. You can turn it
with a slight dovetail inside to help wedge your piece tightly against the
shoulder as the clamp is tightened. I used elm, and it was a good interim
measure until I could afford my first chuck.

It will limit you to one size spigot, but you can certainly work around
that. If you're a belt/suspenders guy, touch it with hot glue. Be advised,
you will _never_ be able to perfectly recenter the chuck if you once remove
it from the faceplate, though I tried, and tape the loose end of the band to
keep it somewhat out of the way.

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote:


I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551
BRBR


I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a

metalworking
chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look

at
Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look

like, and
specifically at the following link


http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n
ova-midi-chuck

to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced

chuck
for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck

I've
seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck.

As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a

full
circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception

is the
Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA


that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget...
I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I
could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol



  #12   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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Default

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 02:56:52 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:
thanks, leo..
I've pretty much decided that I'll get a lathe someday, but I'll wait
until I can afford a One-way or one of the ones at Lee Valley..


Mac don't touch with a 10 foot pole

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 21:46:52 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:


Hi Mac

I assume you do not have a lathe chuck, and the firewood will be turned
not plank wise but lengthwise, I would not use a screw in that case, and
turn the chunks into cylinders between centers, then screw a disk to
your face plate and turn a flat bottom depression in that will fit your
smallest cylinder, glue the piece in and turn your box, part off, cut or
scrape out the depression to fit your next cylinder, etc.
If you use dry wood you can glue it in with hot glue, whenever I have
used hot glue I always used my propane torch to heat the wood then put
on the glue.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


ok.. I think from the 2 replies, I need a chuck..
you're right about the length.. right now I'm turning the branches
between centers with a spur to get the blanks round...
Next I'll cut them roughly to length and then the problem occurs..
(years of Shopsmith use have made me a "plan ahead" kinda guy)

I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31223



  #13   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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Default

On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 07:48:29 -0500, "Rick Spivey"
wrote:

I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold
anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head.

thanks, Rick...
I've had good luck with some HF stuff, but usually avoid anything
involving precision...
Their site was just a quick way to get a few pics of chucks..


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote:


I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551
BRBR

I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a
metalworking
chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look
at
Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look
like, and
specifically at the following link

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n
ova-midi-chuck

to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced
chuck
for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck
I've
seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck.

As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a
full
circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is
the
Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA


that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget...
I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I
could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol



  #14   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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Default

On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 08:11:15 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

You can also make a split collet chuck for your faceplate. End grain hard
wood, four slits, and a groove to accommodate a hose clamp. You can turn it
with a slight dovetail inside to help wedge your piece tightly against the
shoulder as the clamp is tightened. I used elm, and it was a good interim
measure until I could afford my first chuck.

It will limit you to one size spigot, but you can certainly work around
that. If you're a belt/suspenders guy, touch it with hot glue. Be advised,
you will _never_ be able to perfectly recenter the chuck if you once remove
it from the faceplate, though I tried, and tape the loose end of the band to
keep it somewhat out of the way.


hmm... I've been trying to think of a slightly adjustable version of
the one suggested here, but couldn't figure out how to adjust the
"jaws....
No problem with dedicating a faceplate to it.. I have 3 or 4 and don't
do that much turning...
I think i'm going to cheat on these and do the rough hollowing on the
drill press with a forstner...

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote:


I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551
BRBR

I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a

metalworking
chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look

at
Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look

like, and
specifically at the following link


http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n
ova-midi-chuck

to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced

chuck
for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck

I've
seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck.

As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a

full
circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception

is the
Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA


that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget...
I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I
could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol



  #15   Report Post  
Arch
 
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Default

Jim & all you others that don't understand the HF 4jaw chuck's reason
for being:

HF & I don't appreciate your remarks. It is too! a good chuck. Great for
wasting time or making it pass. I've spent many happy hours waiting
while the wife shops or at the dentist's office (sure beats his old
magazines) thinking of things to do with this chuck from hell. The uses
are legion and very high class, from anchoring my canoe to stopping my
door, not to mention throwing clay pigeons. I'd never sully it's good
name and dis it by trying to use it to hold wood...although I'm allowed
to use it as a weight for glue-ups. Works great!

Buying junque at bargain prices is an art only a few of us on rcw are
endowed with. I urge all true believers who bought a HF chuck to come
forth and tell of their uses for this magnificent POS.

Mac, I hope this clears up any unfortunate misunderstandings that _some
people seem to have and to hold.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings



  #16   Report Post  
anonymous
 
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mac davis wrote:

I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I
think are called jars or covered jars here???

Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok?

I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like
several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would
roughly 2" or so in diameter...
My question is how do you hold the little buggers??
They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying
to turn them on a screw center...
I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions?



Mac,
I just tonight turned my first ever boxes. Here's what I did.

First, I followed this link to get a sense of what I needed to do and yes,
you CAN turn them on a screw center.But I didn't. I was intrigued by the
authors assertion (in Method Two) that "but this, too, has a drawback. This
is that the lid cannot be hollowed out" so I found a way to hollow it.

http://www.turningtools.co.uk/projects/box/box.html

I'm using cast-off poplar and oak 3x4's from my employer. By the time I got
them cleaned up in the jointer, my stock was small (~2.50") so I:

1) rough turned one end round in a 4-jaw utility chuck
2) reversed and turned 2nd end round
3) parted off top and set aside
4) ran a 1.375" Forstner bit into the box base to full depth
5) turned the mating lip about .250" tall and about 1/2 the original wall
thickness
6) parted it off from the chuck
7) put top in chuck and ran the Forstner bit in about 1/2"
8) brought recess in the top to size to match tenon on base, reserving a
1.375" step for chucking in step 9 & 10
9) removed 4-jaw chuck and replaced with the PSI internal chuck for watches
10) mounted and finished the top, including all shaping and sanding
11) mounted and sanded the base, including a slight depression in the box
bottom to encourage it to sit square on flat surfaces.
12) applied first coat of finish (Minwax tung oil finish), rubbing by hand.

  #17   Report Post  
anonymous
 
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mac davis wrote:



that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget...
I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I
could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol



Mac, I don't recall where I got it (online) but the chuck I use daily is a
$50 4-jaw that works just fine. It has dovetailed jaws and opens to about
4", closes to a little under 2". That's good enough for anything I am
likely to turn on my under-powered 12x33 HF lathe.

I presently have a 6"+ dia x 14" footed bowl 'in process'. The chuck is
holding it in a recess just fine ... but I need more motor.

Bill



  #19   Report Post  
Barry N. Turner
 
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Forget the $50 to $60 chucks from any source. There may be a good one out
there, but the odds of your finding it are not good. Get a decent chuck.
The Oneway Talon is top notch. The Super Nova is excellent. Nova's new
Midi chuck deserves a look. The only thing about "buying cheap" is that you
seldom get your money's worth.

Barry


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 07:48:29 -0500, "Rick Spivey"
wrote:

I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold
anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head.

thanks, Rick...
I've had good luck with some HF stuff, but usually avoid anything
involving precision...
Their site was just a quick way to get a few pics of chucks..


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote:


I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551
BRBR

I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a
metalworking
chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good.

Look
at
Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look
like, and
specifically at the following link


http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...tion&keywords=

n
ova-midi-chuck

to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced
chuck
for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality

chuck
I've
seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck.

As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to

a
full
circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception

is
the
Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget...
I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I
could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol





  #20   Report Post  
mac davis
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 07:25:33 -0600, "Barry N. Turner"
wrote:

Barry.. when I'm ready to spend the bucks, it is the 1 way talon that
I was looking at..
for me, it has 2 things going for it... several reviews calling it one
of the best, and that it fits my shopsmith..
I don't do enough turning to justify a dedicated lathe or the space it
takes up..


Forget the $50 to $60 chucks from any source. There may be a good one out
there, but the odds of your finding it are not good. Get a decent chuck.
The Oneway Talon is top notch. The Super Nova is excellent. Nova's new
Midi chuck deserves a look. The only thing about "buying cheap" is that you
seldom get your money's worth.

Barry


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 07:48:29 -0500, "Rick Spivey"
wrote:

I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold
anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head.

thanks, Rick...
I've had good luck with some HF stuff, but usually avoid anything
involving precision...
Their site was just a quick way to get a few pics of chucks..


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote:


I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551
BRBR

I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a
metalworking
chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good.

Look
at
Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look
like, and
specifically at the following link


http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...tion&keywords=

n
ova-midi-chuck

to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced
chuck
for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality

chuck
I've
seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck.

As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to

a
full
circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception

is
the
Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget...
I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I
could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol







  #21   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 14:08:58 -0500, anonymous
wrote:

mac davis wrote:

I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I
think are called jars or covered jars here???

Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok?

I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like
several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would
roughly 2" or so in diameter...
My question is how do you hold the little buggers??
They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying
to turn them on a screw center...
I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions?



Mac,
I just tonight turned my first ever boxes. Here's what I did.

First, I followed this link to get a sense of what I needed to do and yes,
you CAN turn them on a screw center.But I didn't. I was intrigued by the
authors assertion (in Method Two) that "but this, too, has a drawback. This
is that the lid cannot be hollowed out" so I found a way to hollow it.

http://www.turningtools.co.uk/projects/box/box.html

I'm using cast-off poplar and oak 3x4's from my employer. By the time I got
them cleaned up in the jointer, my stock was small (~2.50") so I:

1) rough turned one end round in a 4-jaw utility chuck
2) reversed and turned 2nd end round
3) parted off top and set aside
4) ran a 1.375" Forstner bit into the box base to full depth
5) turned the mating lip about .250" tall and about 1/2 the original wall
thickness
6) parted it off from the chuck
7) put top in chuck and ran the Forstner bit in about 1/2"
8) brought recess in the top to size to match tenon on base, reserving a
1.375" step for chucking in step 9 & 10
9) removed 4-jaw chuck and replaced with the PSI internal chuck for watches
10) mounted and finished the top, including all shaping and sanding
11) mounted and sanded the base, including a slight depression in the box
bottom to encourage it to sit square on flat surfaces.
12) applied first coat of finish (Minwax tung oil finish), rubbing by hand.


that sounds like a good plan.. if ya have a chuck.. you suck.... lol

I was going to use the idea of a turned backing plate with a hole for
the stock & hot glue...
I turned a 14 or 16" piece of the walnut to as close as I could get to
a "perfect" spindle.. about 1 7/8 diameter once it was running true..

next step was to run it through the CMS to get box turning lengths
that the hot glue could handle..

I found out that on most of the pieces, I didn't need the glue... they
went in with help from my B.F.H. (not really, I used a rubber mallet)

I did a couple of them last night... it's a challenge for my limited
turning skills, as every "clunk" causes the piece to change it's
seating in the "jam chuck" and get out of true...

The boxes were pretty easy, but the tops were a PITA..

Since these boxes are for the wife, and my neighbor has a lot of these
walnut branches, I'm hoping (with a printout of the shopsmith lathe
chuck page accidentally left out *g*), that santa might bring a lathe
chuck this year..
  #22   Report Post  
Leo Van Der Loo
 
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Hi Mac

Mac I recommend the Oneway Talon or stronghold when you need a chuck, It
is the best holding chuck in my opinion, and the chuck insert makes for
using it on your next lathe, if or when you decide to buy one,
inexpensive, al you need then is an other insert.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:

On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 07:25:33 -0600, "Barry N. Turner"
wrote:

Barry.. when I'm ready to spend the bucks, it is the 1 way talon that
I was looking at..
for me, it has 2 things going for it... several reviews calling it one
of the best, and that it fits my shopsmith..
I don't do enough turning to justify a dedicated lathe or the space it
takes up..



Forget the $50 to $60 chucks from any source. There may be a good one out
there, but the odds of your finding it are not good. Get a decent chuck.
The Oneway Talon is top notch. The Super Nova is excellent. Nova's new
Midi chuck deserves a look. The only thing about "buying cheap" is that you
seldom get your money's worth.

Barry


"mac davis" wrote in message
. ..

On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 07:48:29 -0500, "Rick Spivey"
wrote:


I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold
anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head.


thanks, Rick...
I've had good luck with some HF stuff, but usually avoid anything
involving precision...
Their site was just a quick way to get a few pics of chucks..



"mac davis" wrote in message
m...

On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote:



I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with
square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or
am I missing something here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551

BRBR

I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a
metalworking
chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good.


Look

at
Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look
like, and
specifically at the following link


http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...tion&keywords=


n

ova-midi-chuck

to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced
chuck
for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality


chuck

I've
seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck.

As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to


a

full
circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception


is

the
Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget...
I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I
could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol




  #23   Report Post  
William Hursthouse
 
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On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 15:59:20 GMT, mac davis
wrote:


I found out that on most of the pieces, I didn't need the glue... they
went in with help from my B.F.H. (not really, I used a rubber mallet)

I did a couple of them last night... it's a challenge for my limited
turning skills, as every "clunk" causes the piece to change it's
seating in the "jam chuck" and get out of true...

The boxes were pretty easy, but the tops were a PITA..


I have only made a few boxes, but one thing I have learned is that
wood is seldom stable enougth to make a complete box non stop if you
want a reasonably tight fitting lid. The stuff *moves*!!. The idea
seems to be to rough out a box to about 80%, tape the lid to the box
and leave it to settle for a few months before finishing. Or just make
a *reallly* sloppy lid with beads to hide the join.
Also, the bigger the box, the more movement (doh!) So I have got away
with making itsy bitsy boxes without stopping........but I just made a
"big" (6 inch diameter) box this morning, having left the 100 year old
timber a couple of months as described above - and the unprintable
thing has *still* moved - lots- just during the turning.

william
www.wood.org.nz
  #24   Report Post  
mac davis
 
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On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 12:25:18 +1300, William Hursthouse
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 15:59:20 GMT, mac davis
wrote:


I found out that on most of the pieces, I didn't need the glue... they
went in with help from my B.F.H. (not really, I used a rubber mallet)

I did a couple of them last night... it's a challenge for my limited
turning skills, as every "clunk" causes the piece to change it's
seating in the "jam chuck" and get out of true...

The boxes were pretty easy, but the tops were a PITA..


I have only made a few boxes, but one thing I have learned is that
wood is seldom stable enougth to make a complete box non stop if you
want a reasonably tight fitting lid. The stuff *moves*!!. The idea
seems to be to rough out a box to about 80%, tape the lid to the box
and leave it to settle for a few months before finishing. Or just make
a *reallly* sloppy lid with beads to hide the join.
Also, the bigger the box, the more movement (doh!) So I have got away
with making itsy bitsy boxes without stopping........but I just made a
"big" (6 inch diameter) box this morning, having left the 100 year old
timber a couple of months as described above - and the unprintable
thing has *still* moved - lots- just during the turning.

william
www.wood.org.nz


I usually use the top for a chuck to finish the bottom of the box, so
I get a pretty tight fit...
I did notice that on this page:
http://www.bealltool.com/treen.htm
they seem to think that a cork fitting and some sort of stopper set??

I have an old turned box that I made out of oak about 20 years ago.. i
noticed the other day that it seals really well if you get it in the
right direction... I guess the box & lid warped together.. lol

  #25   Report Post  
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Posts: 453
Default sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes

The current name d'jour seems to be "turned lidded box" and
they've become my furniture making diversion/obsession.

If you've been turning for about a year it's time to expand
your capabilities or at least make it easier - though not on
the wallet. GET A CHUCK! And get a decent one - OneWay,
SuperNova (or SN2) and a set of what TeknaTools calls
Pin Jaws. You can expand the jaws into an I.D. a tad
over 1" and grip a tenon down to a tad below 1/2" diameter.
They're long enough to let you work up agains their ends
without having the rest of the chuck wacking your knuckles.

Now you can go with a chuck that uses what I think are
called Tommy Bars but you need two hands to tighten
the chuck which leaves no hand to hold the piece while
your doing the tightening.

As for the procedure using a chuck - it does involve
a bit of chucking and rechucking and it gets a little
tricky if you want the lid and bottom grain pattern
to look fairly continuous. Blow the turning and
chucking sequence and you can find yourself SOL
quite easily - DAMHIKT.

Anyway, I put together some instructions for myself.
Printed them and put them in a binder. My woodworking
jumps around a lot and it may be months or years
before I get back to a past obsession. Since I did the
instructions it was no problem putting them up on
my WWing website. Either print each page on line
and take it to the shop, or download each page since
they're GIF image files, print them and take them
to the shop. Here's the url (all one line, watch the
line wrap)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...iddedBox0.html

With a printed copy you can add notes to yourself
if you find a hole in the instructions. If you have
suggestions on how to make these instructions
better please e-mail me and I'll try and make the
changes/additions.

If you add a finial to the top of the lid you can
still enjoy turning between centers.

charlie b


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Default sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes

I find the standard 2" jaws more useful for beginning boxmaking. They use a
larger tenon and grip tighter. They are more versatile for other things
too. Like small bowls.

Barry


"charlie b" wrote in message
...
The current name d'jour seems to be "turned lidded box" and
they've become my furniture making diversion/obsession.

If you've been turning for about a year it's time to expand
your capabilities or at least make it easier - though not on
the wallet. GET A CHUCK! And get a decent one - OneWay,
SuperNova (or SN2) and a set of what TeknaTools calls
Pin Jaws. You can expand the jaws into an I.D. a tad
over 1" and grip a tenon down to a tad below 1/2" diameter.
They're long enough to let you work up agains their ends
without having the rest of the chuck wacking your knuckles.

Now you can go with a chuck that uses what I think are
called Tommy Bars but you need two hands to tighten
the chuck which leaves no hand to hold the piece while
your doing the tightening.

As for the procedure using a chuck - it does involve
a bit of chucking and rechucking and it gets a little
tricky if you want the lid and bottom grain pattern
to look fairly continuous. Blow the turning and
chucking sequence and you can find yourself SOL
quite easily - DAMHIKT.

Anyway, I put together some instructions for myself.
Printed them and put them in a binder. My woodworking
jumps around a lot and it may be months or years
before I get back to a past obsession. Since I did the
instructions it was no problem putting them up on
my WWing website. Either print each page on line
and take it to the shop, or download each page since
they're GIF image files, print them and take them
to the shop. Here's the url (all one line, watch the
line wrap)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...iddedBox0.html

With a printed copy you can add notes to yourself
if you find a hole in the instructions. If you have
suggestions on how to make these instructions
better please e-mail me and I'll try and make the
changes/additions.

If you add a finial to the top of the lid you can
still enjoy turning between centers.

charlie b



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Default sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes


"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
...
I find the standard 2" jaws more useful for beginning boxmaking. They use
a larger tenon and grip tighter. They are more versatile for other things
too. Like small bowls.


Oddly, small boxes is where the 75 and 100 mm jaws get their main use at my
house. Bowls up to 400 mainly get the 50's. I like the convenience of
having more than one chuck, and one is _always_ fitted with pin jaws.
Easily the handiest way to get a piece of wood spun up.

One ridge or bead inside or outside can hold the box for finishing and
fitting and look as if it were design by aesthetic rather than necessity.

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Default sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes

charlie b wrote:

p)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...iddedBox0.html

With a printed copy you can add notes to yourself
if you find a hole in the instructions. If you have
suggestions on how to make these instructions
better please e-mail me and I'll try and make the
changes/additions.

If you add a finial to the top of the lid you can
still enjoy turning between centers.



D00d! This is an overwhelming gift to the rest of us.

I've been lurking through a wide variety of craft and skill oriented
groups over the past few years. I've found that there is a dichotomy:
Some are extremely generous with what they've learned.

The others... well, I've come across one fellow who said, "I've got
[vital skill X] reduced to a very simple and reliable system, but I
won't tell anybody what it is, because I don't think they've earned it."

After an experience like that, the generosity of wood turners is frankly
shocking. (In a good way.) Even if I wasn't mildly obsessed with it, I
would lurk here just to hang out with you guys.

BobMac
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Posts: 453
Default sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes

BobMac wrote:

D00d! This is an overwhelming gift to the rest of us.


I did this stuff for myself - I jump around in woodworking and
I'm apt to forget the details by the time I get back to something.
Not much to put it up on the web for others. If it gets someone
to try something they might not otherwise, or not get to 'til
they get better at turning, by making it easier - and showing
them that even a relative newbie like me can do it ...

Want to try handcut dovetails?
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...ilDrawer0.html

How about mortise and tenons?
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/MTPrimer0.html

Ever had a piece of wood come off your table saw at Mach II
and didn't know why - or what you could do to minimize the
likelyhood of it happening again?
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/KickBack1.html

I've been lurking through a wide variety of craft and skill oriented
groups over the past few years. I've found that there is a dichotomy:
Some are extremely generous with what they've learned.


I'm just trying to follow the examples I had when I first got into
woodworking. rec.woodworking regulars provided a great deal
of encouragement and suggestions.

The others... well, I've come across one fellow who said, "I've got
[vital skill X] reduced to a very simple and reliable system, but I
won't tell anybody what it is, because I don't think they've earned it."


I've had some great teachers - and a few really lousy ones. The
good ones felt their job was to pass on what had been provided
to them, and the things they subsequently learned, to their students.
When I taught, I told the students the first night, and several times
throughout the class that I worked for them. If they had questions
and didn't get an answer they could "get" that it was their job
to keep asking and my job to keep trying to help them "get it".

After an experience like that, the generosity of wood turners is frankly
shocking. (In a good way.) Even if I wasn't mildly obsessed with it, I
would lurk here just to hang out with you guys.


Ain't limited to woodturners. Woodworkers seem to be, more often
than not, a friendly and helpful lot.

BobMac


charlie b
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Default sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes

ya know, being stingy with your knowlege is its own reward.




D00d! This is an overwhelming gift to the rest of us.

I've been lurking through a wide variety of craft and skill oriented
groups over the past few years. I've found that there is a dichotomy: Some
are extremely generous with what they've learned.

The others... well, I've come across one fellow who said, "I've got [vital
skill X] reduced to a very simple and reliable system, but I won't tell
anybody what it is, because I don't think they've earned it."

After an experience like that, the generosity of wood turners is frankly
shocking. (In a good way.) Even if I wasn't mildly obsessed with it, I
would lurk here just to hang out with you guys.

BobMac




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