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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes
I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I
think are called jars or covered jars here??? Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok? I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would roughly 2" or so in diameter... My question is how do you hold the little buggers?? They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying to turn them on a screw center... I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions? |
#2
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Check http://www.turningtools.co.uk/projects/box/box.html.
Brian Clifford gives full detailed instructions on how to make a box with a lid. My chuck compresses to 1 5/8" outside diameter and I have no problem with 2" outside diameter blanks "mac davis" wrote in message ... I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I think are called jars or covered jars here??? Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok? I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would roughly 2" or so in diameter... My question is how do you hold the little buggers?? They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying to turn them on a screw center... I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions? |
#3
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Hi Mac
I assume you do not have a lathe chuck, and the firewood will be turned not plank wise but lengthwise, I would not use a screw in that case, and turn the chunks into cylinders between centers, then screw a disk to your face plate and turn a flat bottom depression in that will fit your smallest cylinder, glue the piece in and turn your box, part off, cut or scrape out the depression to fit your next cylinder, etc. If you use dry wood you can glue it in with hot glue, whenever I have used hot glue I always used my propane torch to heat the wood then put on the glue. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo mac davis wrote: I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I think are called jars or covered jars here??? Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok? I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would roughly 2" or so in diameter... My question is how do you hold the little buggers?? They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying to turn them on a screw center... I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions? |
#4
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On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 21:46:52 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote: Hi Mac I assume you do not have a lathe chuck, and the firewood will be turned not plank wise but lengthwise, I would not use a screw in that case, and turn the chunks into cylinders between centers, then screw a disk to your face plate and turn a flat bottom depression in that will fit your smallest cylinder, glue the piece in and turn your box, part off, cut or scrape out the depression to fit your next cylinder, etc. If you use dry wood you can glue it in with hot glue, whenever I have used hot glue I always used my propane torch to heat the wood then put on the glue. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo ok.. I think from the 2 replies, I need a chuck.. you're right about the length.. right now I'm turning the branches between centers with a spur to get the blanks round... Next I'll cut them roughly to length and then the problem occurs.. (years of Shopsmith use have made me a "plan ahead" kinda guy) I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31223 |
#5
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On 5 Dec 2004 04:58:21 GMT, Bruce Barnett
wrote: mac davis writes: I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I think are called jars or covered jars here??? Some call them treen... They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying to turn them on a screw center... I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions? Beall Tools has a special mandrel for turning small boxes. You drill a 1 1/4" hole in the stock, and then insert the mandrel. http://www.bealltool.com/treen.htm One down side is that the inside diameter is fixed. You can get it from Woodcraft, etc. But make sure you get the Morse Taper adapter and consider the Treen Mandrel convertor. I think Lee Valley had the best package, last I checked, because the $15 convertor was included. interesting concept, though a little pricey and I'm not sure how it would mount to the present lathe.. (shopsmith) I'm still wondering if a chuck would be the way to go.. |
#6
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I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 BRBR I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and specifically at the following link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n ova-midi-chuck to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck. As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws. -Jim Gott- San Jose, CA |
#7
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the recommendation to use a glue block will solve your immediate problem -
and save you a lot of $$ over a chuck. but a decent chuck is a great thing to have - figure on spending a couple of hundred $$ "mac davis" wrote in message ... On 5 Dec 2004 04:58:21 GMT, Bruce Barnett wrote: mac davis writes: I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I think are called jars or covered jars here??? I'm still wondering if a chuck would be the way to go.. |
#9
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Mac don't touch with a 10 foot pole
Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo mac davis wrote: On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 21:46:52 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo wrote: Hi Mac I assume you do not have a lathe chuck, and the firewood will be turned not plank wise but lengthwise, I would not use a screw in that case, and turn the chunks into cylinders between centers, then screw a disk to your face plate and turn a flat bottom depression in that will fit your smallest cylinder, glue the piece in and turn your box, part off, cut or scrape out the depression to fit your next cylinder, etc. If you use dry wood you can glue it in with hot glue, whenever I have used hot glue I always used my propane torch to heat the wood then put on the glue. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo ok.. I think from the 2 replies, I need a chuck.. you're right about the length.. right now I'm turning the branches between centers with a spur to get the blanks round... Next I'll cut them roughly to length and then the problem occurs.. (years of Shopsmith use have made me a "plan ahead" kinda guy) I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31223 |
#10
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I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold
anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head. "mac davis" wrote in message ... On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote: I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 BRBR I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and specifically at the following link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n ova-midi-chuck to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck. As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws. -Jim Gott- San Jose, CA that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget... I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol |
#11
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You can also make a split collet chuck for your faceplate. End grain hard
wood, four slits, and a groove to accommodate a hose clamp. You can turn it with a slight dovetail inside to help wedge your piece tightly against the shoulder as the clamp is tightened. I used elm, and it was a good interim measure until I could afford my first chuck. It will limit you to one size spigot, but you can certainly work around that. If you're a belt/suspenders guy, touch it with hot glue. Be advised, you will _never_ be able to perfectly recenter the chuck if you once remove it from the faceplate, though I tried, and tape the loose end of the band to keep it somewhat out of the way. "mac davis" wrote in message ... On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote: I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 BRBR I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and specifically at the following link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n ova-midi-chuck to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck. As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws. -Jim Gott- San Jose, CA that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget... I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol |
#12
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On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 02:56:52 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote: thanks, leo.. I've pretty much decided that I'll get a lathe someday, but I'll wait until I can afford a One-way or one of the ones at Lee Valley.. Mac don't touch with a 10 foot pole Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo mac davis wrote: On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 21:46:52 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo wrote: Hi Mac I assume you do not have a lathe chuck, and the firewood will be turned not plank wise but lengthwise, I would not use a screw in that case, and turn the chunks into cylinders between centers, then screw a disk to your face plate and turn a flat bottom depression in that will fit your smallest cylinder, glue the piece in and turn your box, part off, cut or scrape out the depression to fit your next cylinder, etc. If you use dry wood you can glue it in with hot glue, whenever I have used hot glue I always used my propane torch to heat the wood then put on the glue. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo ok.. I think from the 2 replies, I need a chuck.. you're right about the length.. right now I'm turning the branches between centers with a spur to get the blanks round... Next I'll cut them roughly to length and then the problem occurs.. (years of Shopsmith use have made me a "plan ahead" kinda guy) I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31223 |
#13
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On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 07:48:29 -0500, "Rick Spivey"
wrote: I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head. thanks, Rick... I've had good luck with some HF stuff, but usually avoid anything involving precision... Their site was just a quick way to get a few pics of chucks.. "mac davis" wrote in message .. . On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote: I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 BRBR I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and specifically at the following link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n ova-midi-chuck to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck. As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws. -Jim Gott- San Jose, CA that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget... I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol |
#14
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On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 08:11:15 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:
You can also make a split collet chuck for your faceplate. End grain hard wood, four slits, and a groove to accommodate a hose clamp. You can turn it with a slight dovetail inside to help wedge your piece tightly against the shoulder as the clamp is tightened. I used elm, and it was a good interim measure until I could afford my first chuck. It will limit you to one size spigot, but you can certainly work around that. If you're a belt/suspenders guy, touch it with hot glue. Be advised, you will _never_ be able to perfectly recenter the chuck if you once remove it from the faceplate, though I tried, and tape the loose end of the band to keep it somewhat out of the way. hmm... I've been trying to think of a slightly adjustable version of the one suggested here, but couldn't figure out how to adjust the "jaws.... No problem with dedicating a faceplate to it.. I have 3 or 4 and don't do that much turning... I think i'm going to cheat on these and do the rough hollowing on the drill press with a forstner... "mac davis" wrote in message .. . On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote: I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 BRBR I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and specifically at the following link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...ion&keywords=n ova-midi-chuck to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck. As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws. -Jim Gott- San Jose, CA that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget... I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol |
#15
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Jim & all you others that don't understand the HF 4jaw chuck's reason
for being: HF & I don't appreciate your remarks. It is too! a good chuck. Great for wasting time or making it pass. I've spent many happy hours waiting while the wife shops or at the dentist's office (sure beats his old magazines) thinking of things to do with this chuck from hell. The uses are legion and very high class, from anchoring my canoe to stopping my door, not to mention throwing clay pigeons. I'd never sully it's good name and dis it by trying to use it to hold wood...although I'm allowed to use it as a weight for glue-ups. Works great! Buying junque at bargain prices is an art only a few of us on rcw are endowed with. I urge all true believers who bought a HF chuck to come forth and tell of their uses for this magnificent POS. Mac, I hope this clears up any unfortunate misunderstandings that _some people seem to have and to hold. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#16
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mac davis wrote:
I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I think are called jars or covered jars here??? Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok? I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would roughly 2" or so in diameter... My question is how do you hold the little buggers?? They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying to turn them on a screw center... I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions? Mac, I just tonight turned my first ever boxes. Here's what I did. First, I followed this link to get a sense of what I needed to do and yes, you CAN turn them on a screw center.But I didn't. I was intrigued by the authors assertion (in Method Two) that "but this, too, has a drawback. This is that the lid cannot be hollowed out" so I found a way to hollow it. http://www.turningtools.co.uk/projects/box/box.html I'm using cast-off poplar and oak 3x4's from my employer. By the time I got them cleaned up in the jointer, my stock was small (~2.50") so I: 1) rough turned one end round in a 4-jaw utility chuck 2) reversed and turned 2nd end round 3) parted off top and set aside 4) ran a 1.375" Forstner bit into the box base to full depth 5) turned the mating lip about .250" tall and about 1/2 the original wall thickness 6) parted it off from the chuck 7) put top in chuck and ran the Forstner bit in about 1/2" 8) brought recess in the top to size to match tenon on base, reserving a 1.375" step for chucking in step 9 & 10 9) removed 4-jaw chuck and replaced with the PSI internal chuck for watches 10) mounted and finished the top, including all shaping and sanding 11) mounted and sanded the base, including a slight depression in the box bottom to encourage it to sit square on flat surfaces. 12) applied first coat of finish (Minwax tung oil finish), rubbing by hand. |
#17
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mac davis wrote:
that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget... I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol Mac, I don't recall where I got it (online) but the chuck I use daily is a $50 4-jaw that works just fine. It has dovetailed jaws and opens to about 4", closes to a little under 2". That's good enough for anything I am likely to turn on my under-powered 12x33 HF lathe. I presently have a 6"+ dia x 14" footed bowl 'in process'. The chuck is holding it in a recess just fine ... but I need more motor. Bill |
#18
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On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 12:09:54 -0500, (Arch) wrote:
Jim & all you others that don't understand the HF 4jaw chuck's reason for being: HF & I don't appreciate your remarks. It is too! a good chuck. Great for wasting time or making it pass. I've spent many happy hours waiting while the wife shops or at the dentist's office (sure beats his old magazines) thinking of things to do with this chuck from hell. The uses are legion and very high class, from anchoring my canoe to stopping my door, not to mention throwing clay pigeons. I'd never sully it's good name and dis it by trying to use it to hold wood...although I'm allowed to use it as a weight for glue-ups. Works great! Buying junque at bargain prices is an art only a few of us on rcw are endowed with. I urge all true believers who bought a HF chuck to come forth and tell of their uses for this magnificent POS. Mac, I hope this clears up any unfortunate misunderstandings that _some people seem to have and to hold. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings Arch, you've truly inspired me.... I think I'll get one to make a nice contrast to my POS hf biscuit jointer, which is decorating the pegboard in a dark, dusty corner of the gar.. I mean shop.... |
#19
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Forget the $50 to $60 chucks from any source. There may be a good one out
there, but the odds of your finding it are not good. Get a decent chuck. The Oneway Talon is top notch. The Super Nova is excellent. Nova's new Midi chuck deserves a look. The only thing about "buying cheap" is that you seldom get your money's worth. Barry "mac davis" wrote in message ... On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 07:48:29 -0500, "Rick Spivey" wrote: I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head. thanks, Rick... I've had good luck with some HF stuff, but usually avoid anything involving precision... Their site was just a quick way to get a few pics of chucks.. "mac davis" wrote in message .. . On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote: I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 BRBR I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and specifically at the following link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...tion&keywords= n ova-midi-chuck to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck. As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws. -Jim Gott- San Jose, CA that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget... I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol |
#20
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On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 07:25:33 -0600, "Barry N. Turner"
wrote: Barry.. when I'm ready to spend the bucks, it is the 1 way talon that I was looking at.. for me, it has 2 things going for it... several reviews calling it one of the best, and that it fits my shopsmith.. I don't do enough turning to justify a dedicated lathe or the space it takes up.. Forget the $50 to $60 chucks from any source. There may be a good one out there, but the odds of your finding it are not good. Get a decent chuck. The Oneway Talon is top notch. The Super Nova is excellent. Nova's new Midi chuck deserves a look. The only thing about "buying cheap" is that you seldom get your money's worth. Barry "mac davis" wrote in message .. . On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 07:48:29 -0500, "Rick Spivey" wrote: I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head. thanks, Rick... I've had good luck with some HF stuff, but usually avoid anything involving precision... Their site was just a quick way to get a few pics of chucks.. "mac davis" wrote in message .. . On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote: I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 BRBR I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and specifically at the following link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...tion&keywords= n ova-midi-chuck to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck. As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws. -Jim Gott- San Jose, CA that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget... I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol |
#21
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On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 14:08:58 -0500, anonymous
wrote: mac davis wrote: I've been turning what were called "round boxes" when i learned, and I think are called jars or covered jars here??? Anyway, it's a hollow shape with a matching/fitting lid, ok? I've always turned them with a faceplace, but My wife would like several from some walnut firewood we got from a friend, and they would roughly 2" or so in diameter... My question is how do you hold the little buggers?? They're too small to mount on a faceplate and I can't imagine trying to turn them on a screw center... I know there has to be an easy way to do thais, any suggestions? Mac, I just tonight turned my first ever boxes. Here's what I did. First, I followed this link to get a sense of what I needed to do and yes, you CAN turn them on a screw center.But I didn't. I was intrigued by the authors assertion (in Method Two) that "but this, too, has a drawback. This is that the lid cannot be hollowed out" so I found a way to hollow it. http://www.turningtools.co.uk/projects/box/box.html I'm using cast-off poplar and oak 3x4's from my employer. By the time I got them cleaned up in the jointer, my stock was small (~2.50") so I: 1) rough turned one end round in a 4-jaw utility chuck 2) reversed and turned 2nd end round 3) parted off top and set aside 4) ran a 1.375" Forstner bit into the box base to full depth 5) turned the mating lip about .250" tall and about 1/2 the original wall thickness 6) parted it off from the chuck 7) put top in chuck and ran the Forstner bit in about 1/2" 8) brought recess in the top to size to match tenon on base, reserving a 1.375" step for chucking in step 9 & 10 9) removed 4-jaw chuck and replaced with the PSI internal chuck for watches 10) mounted and finished the top, including all shaping and sanding 11) mounted and sanded the base, including a slight depression in the box bottom to encourage it to sit square on flat surfaces. 12) applied first coat of finish (Minwax tung oil finish), rubbing by hand. that sounds like a good plan.. if ya have a chuck.. you suck.... lol I was going to use the idea of a turned backing plate with a hole for the stock & hot glue... I turned a 14 or 16" piece of the walnut to as close as I could get to a "perfect" spindle.. about 1 7/8 diameter once it was running true.. next step was to run it through the CMS to get box turning lengths that the hot glue could handle.. I found out that on most of the pieces, I didn't need the glue... they went in with help from my B.F.H. (not really, I used a rubber mallet) I did a couple of them last night... it's a challenge for my limited turning skills, as every "clunk" causes the piece to change it's seating in the "jam chuck" and get out of true... The boxes were pretty easy, but the tops were a PITA.. Since these boxes are for the wife, and my neighbor has a lot of these walnut branches, I'm hoping (with a printout of the shopsmith lathe chuck page accidentally left out *g*), that santa might bring a lathe chuck this year.. |
#22
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Hi Mac
Mac I recommend the Oneway Talon or stronghold when you need a chuck, It is the best holding chuck in my opinion, and the chuck insert makes for using it on your next lathe, if or when you decide to buy one, inexpensive, al you need then is an other insert. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo mac davis wrote: On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 07:25:33 -0600, "Barry N. Turner" wrote: Barry.. when I'm ready to spend the bucks, it is the 1 way talon that I was looking at.. for me, it has 2 things going for it... several reviews calling it one of the best, and that it fits my shopsmith.. I don't do enough turning to justify a dedicated lathe or the space it takes up.. Forget the $50 to $60 chucks from any source. There may be a good one out there, but the odds of your finding it are not good. Get a decent chuck. The Oneway Talon is top notch. The Super Nova is excellent. Nova's new Midi chuck deserves a look. The only thing about "buying cheap" is that you seldom get your money's worth. Barry "mac davis" wrote in message . .. On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 07:48:29 -0500, "Rick Spivey" wrote: I wouldn't waste money on the hb chuck either, i did and it will not hold anything. no dovetails inside or outside. save your money and head. thanks, Rick... I've had good luck with some HF stuff, but usually avoid anything involving precision... Their site was just a quick way to get a few pics of chucks.. "mac davis" wrote in message m... On 05 Dec 2004 05:52:40 GMT, (Jim Gott) wrote: I looked at chucks at HF for reference, and they say "for use with square, rectangular or odd shaped pieces"... is round an odd shape, or am I missing something here? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34551 BRBR I wouldn't waste time or money on that chuck. It's basically a metalworking chuck adapted for wood, but the jaws are too narrow to do much good. Look at Craft Supplies USA's site to see what a woodturning chuck should look like, and specifically at the following link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...tion&keywords= n ova-midi-chuck to see the Technatool Nova Midi Chuck, a quality yet reasonably priced chuck for small work. At about $120 it's the least expensive good quality chuck I've seen. Don't waste your money on the HF chuck. As you will see with all the chucks we normally use, the jaws close to a full circle, and are usually dovetail shaped in cross section. One exception is the Oneway chuck which has serrated jaws. -Jim Gott- San Jose, CA that looks like a great chuck, Jim... but way over my budget... I think the hot glue might be the way to go for now... for $120 I could buy her a lot of jars and lids.. lol |
#23
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On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 15:59:20 GMT, mac davis
wrote: I found out that on most of the pieces, I didn't need the glue... they went in with help from my B.F.H. (not really, I used a rubber mallet) I did a couple of them last night... it's a challenge for my limited turning skills, as every "clunk" causes the piece to change it's seating in the "jam chuck" and get out of true... The boxes were pretty easy, but the tops were a PITA.. I have only made a few boxes, but one thing I have learned is that wood is seldom stable enougth to make a complete box non stop if you want a reasonably tight fitting lid. The stuff *moves*!!. The idea seems to be to rough out a box to about 80%, tape the lid to the box and leave it to settle for a few months before finishing. Or just make a *reallly* sloppy lid with beads to hide the join. Also, the bigger the box, the more movement (doh!) So I have got away with making itsy bitsy boxes without stopping........but I just made a "big" (6 inch diameter) box this morning, having left the 100 year old timber a couple of months as described above - and the unprintable thing has *still* moved - lots- just during the turning. william www.wood.org.nz |
#24
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On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 12:25:18 +1300, William Hursthouse
wrote: On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 15:59:20 GMT, mac davis wrote: I found out that on most of the pieces, I didn't need the glue... they went in with help from my B.F.H. (not really, I used a rubber mallet) I did a couple of them last night... it's a challenge for my limited turning skills, as every "clunk" causes the piece to change it's seating in the "jam chuck" and get out of true... The boxes were pretty easy, but the tops were a PITA.. I have only made a few boxes, but one thing I have learned is that wood is seldom stable enougth to make a complete box non stop if you want a reasonably tight fitting lid. The stuff *moves*!!. The idea seems to be to rough out a box to about 80%, tape the lid to the box and leave it to settle for a few months before finishing. Or just make a *reallly* sloppy lid with beads to hide the join. Also, the bigger the box, the more movement (doh!) So I have got away with making itsy bitsy boxes without stopping........but I just made a "big" (6 inch diameter) box this morning, having left the 100 year old timber a couple of months as described above - and the unprintable thing has *still* moved - lots- just during the turning. william www.wood.org.nz I usually use the top for a chuck to finish the bottom of the box, so I get a pretty tight fit... I did notice that on this page: http://www.bealltool.com/treen.htm they seem to think that a cork fitting and some sort of stopper set?? I have an old turned box that I made out of oak about 20 years ago.. i noticed the other day that it seals really well if you get it in the right direction... I guess the box & lid warped together.. lol |
#25
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes
The current name d'jour seems to be "turned lidded box" and
they've become my furniture making diversion/obsession. If you've been turning for about a year it's time to expand your capabilities or at least make it easier - though not on the wallet. GET A CHUCK! And get a decent one - OneWay, SuperNova (or SN2) and a set of what TeknaTools calls Pin Jaws. You can expand the jaws into an I.D. a tad over 1" and grip a tenon down to a tad below 1/2" diameter. They're long enough to let you work up agains their ends without having the rest of the chuck wacking your knuckles. Now you can go with a chuck that uses what I think are called Tommy Bars but you need two hands to tighten the chuck which leaves no hand to hold the piece while your doing the tightening. As for the procedure using a chuck - it does involve a bit of chucking and rechucking and it gets a little tricky if you want the lid and bottom grain pattern to look fairly continuous. Blow the turning and chucking sequence and you can find yourself SOL quite easily - DAMHIKT. Anyway, I put together some instructions for myself. Printed them and put them in a binder. My woodworking jumps around a lot and it may be months or years before I get back to a past obsession. Since I did the instructions it was no problem putting them up on my WWing website. Either print each page on line and take it to the shop, or download each page since they're GIF image files, print them and take them to the shop. Here's the url (all one line, watch the line wrap) http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...iddedBox0.html With a printed copy you can add notes to yourself if you find a hole in the instructions. If you have suggestions on how to make these instructions better please e-mail me and I'll try and make the changes/additions. If you add a finial to the top of the lid you can still enjoy turning between centers. charlie b |
#26
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes
I find the standard 2" jaws more useful for beginning boxmaking. They use a
larger tenon and grip tighter. They are more versatile for other things too. Like small bowls. Barry "charlie b" wrote in message ... The current name d'jour seems to be "turned lidded box" and they've become my furniture making diversion/obsession. If you've been turning for about a year it's time to expand your capabilities or at least make it easier - though not on the wallet. GET A CHUCK! And get a decent one - OneWay, SuperNova (or SN2) and a set of what TeknaTools calls Pin Jaws. You can expand the jaws into an I.D. a tad over 1" and grip a tenon down to a tad below 1/2" diameter. They're long enough to let you work up agains their ends without having the rest of the chuck wacking your knuckles. Now you can go with a chuck that uses what I think are called Tommy Bars but you need two hands to tighten the chuck which leaves no hand to hold the piece while your doing the tightening. As for the procedure using a chuck - it does involve a bit of chucking and rechucking and it gets a little tricky if you want the lid and bottom grain pattern to look fairly continuous. Blow the turning and chucking sequence and you can find yourself SOL quite easily - DAMHIKT. Anyway, I put together some instructions for myself. Printed them and put them in a binder. My woodworking jumps around a lot and it may be months or years before I get back to a past obsession. Since I did the instructions it was no problem putting them up on my WWing website. Either print each page on line and take it to the shop, or download each page since they're GIF image files, print them and take them to the shop. Here's the url (all one line, watch the line wrap) http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...iddedBox0.html With a printed copy you can add notes to yourself if you find a hole in the instructions. If you have suggestions on how to make these instructions better please e-mail me and I'll try and make the changes/additions. If you add a finial to the top of the lid you can still enjoy turning between centers. charlie b |
#27
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes
"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message ... I find the standard 2" jaws more useful for beginning boxmaking. They use a larger tenon and grip tighter. They are more versatile for other things too. Like small bowls. Oddly, small boxes is where the 75 and 100 mm jaws get their main use at my house. Bowls up to 400 mainly get the 50's. I like the convenience of having more than one chuck, and one is _always_ fitted with pin jaws. Easily the handiest way to get a piece of wood spun up. One ridge or bead inside or outside can hold the box for finishing and fitting and look as if it were design by aesthetic rather than necessity. |
#28
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes
charlie b wrote:
p) http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...iddedBox0.html With a printed copy you can add notes to yourself if you find a hole in the instructions. If you have suggestions on how to make these instructions better please e-mail me and I'll try and make the changes/additions. If you add a finial to the top of the lid you can still enjoy turning between centers. D00d! This is an overwhelming gift to the rest of us. I've been lurking through a wide variety of craft and skill oriented groups over the past few years. I've found that there is a dichotomy: Some are extremely generous with what they've learned. The others... well, I've come across one fellow who said, "I've got [vital skill X] reduced to a very simple and reliable system, but I won't tell anybody what it is, because I don't think they've earned it." After an experience like that, the generosity of wood turners is frankly shocking. (In a good way.) Even if I wasn't mildly obsessed with it, I would lurk here just to hang out with you guys. BobMac |
#29
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes
BobMac wrote:
D00d! This is an overwhelming gift to the rest of us. I did this stuff for myself - I jump around in woodworking and I'm apt to forget the details by the time I get back to something. Not much to put it up on the web for others. If it gets someone to try something they might not otherwise, or not get to 'til they get better at turning, by making it easier - and showing them that even a relative newbie like me can do it ... Want to try handcut dovetails? http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...ilDrawer0.html How about mortise and tenons? http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/MTPrimer0.html Ever had a piece of wood come off your table saw at Mach II and didn't know why - or what you could do to minimize the likelyhood of it happening again? http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/KickBack1.html I've been lurking through a wide variety of craft and skill oriented groups over the past few years. I've found that there is a dichotomy: Some are extremely generous with what they've learned. I'm just trying to follow the examples I had when I first got into woodworking. rec.woodworking regulars provided a great deal of encouragement and suggestions. The others... well, I've come across one fellow who said, "I've got [vital skill X] reduced to a very simple and reliable system, but I won't tell anybody what it is, because I don't think they've earned it." I've had some great teachers - and a few really lousy ones. The good ones felt their job was to pass on what had been provided to them, and the things they subsequently learned, to their students. When I taught, I told the students the first night, and several times throughout the class that I worked for them. If they had questions and didn't get an answer they could "get" that it was their job to keep asking and my job to keep trying to help them "get it". After an experience like that, the generosity of wood turners is frankly shocking. (In a good way.) Even if I wasn't mildly obsessed with it, I would lurk here just to hang out with you guys. Ain't limited to woodturners. Woodworkers seem to be, more often than not, a friendly and helpful lot. BobMac charlie b |
#30
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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sorta newbie question on turning small jars/boxes
ya know, being stingy with your knowlege is its own reward.
D00d! This is an overwhelming gift to the rest of us. I've been lurking through a wide variety of craft and skill oriented groups over the past few years. I've found that there is a dichotomy: Some are extremely generous with what they've learned. The others... well, I've come across one fellow who said, "I've got [vital skill X] reduced to a very simple and reliable system, but I won't tell anybody what it is, because I don't think they've earned it." After an experience like that, the generosity of wood turners is frankly shocking. (In a good way.) Even if I wasn't mildly obsessed with it, I would lurk here just to hang out with you guys. BobMac -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
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