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  #1   Report Post  
George
 
Posts: n/a
Default Sandpaper

Nobody loves sanding, and I hate it more than most in the group, so I'd like
to pass along a "buy" recommendation for the Green "Hi-per" sanding discs.
They're cloth-backed for good wear, have a resin-on-resin adhesive, and the
grade, on the disks from Packard, is printed every half inch on the Velcro
backing.

I got the assortment, just to give it a try, and have worked both wet and
dry wood with it. The 120 is extremely sharp and cuts aggressively even on
wet wood. It cuts so aggressively that I prefer to use the 180 to start on
dry, but it loads less and sands more between cleanings than even my Power
Lock resin-on-resin disks on warp-and-go pieces like the wet beech I worked
last evening. I am afraid to try the 80, after seeing what the 120 will do.

Where it really comes into its own is in the finer grades, where I was
extremely disappointed with the "gold" versions, returning to the Stearated
Rhino brand after multiple disconnects between Velcro and paper. This stuff
seems to hold better, even when you stop the lathe and put maybe a bit too
much pressure on that _one_ spot, trying to avoid going back one grit.

I'm sure other places than Packard have it, but if you're looking to fill
out an order to enough to justify the shipping, you might try adding this,
as I did. I was pleasantly surprised.

Of course I don't work for anyone involved with the paper, and with no drawl
I could never make it at Packard.


  #2   Report Post  
Denis Marier
 
Posts: n/a
Default

The description of the "Packard Hi-per" sanding discs" is interesting.
Is the sanding discs made by Packard or is it a branded name? What is the
cost per sanding disc for 2 and 3 inches.
TIA
..
"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Nobody loves sanding, and I hate it more than most in the group, so I'd

like
to pass along a "buy" recommendation for the Green "Hi-per" sanding discs.
They're cloth-backed for good wear, have a resin-on-resin adhesive, and

the
grade, on the disks from Packard, is printed every half inch on the Velcro
backing.

I got the assortment, just to give it a try, and have worked both wet and
dry wood with it. The 120 is extremely sharp and cuts aggressively even

on
wet wood. It cuts so aggressively that I prefer to use the 180 to start

on
dry, but it loads less and sands more between cleanings than even my Power
Lock resin-on-resin disks on warp-and-go pieces like the wet beech I

worked
last evening. I am afraid to try the 80, after seeing what the 120 will

do.

Where it really comes into its own is in the finer grades, where I was
extremely disappointed with the "gold" versions, returning to the

Stearated
Rhino brand after multiple disconnects between Velcro and paper. This

stuff
seems to hold better, even when you stop the lathe and put maybe a bit too
much pressure on that _one_ spot, trying to avoid going back one grit.

I'm sure other places than Packard have it, but if you're looking to fill
out an order to enough to justify the shipping, you might try adding this,
as I did. I was pleasantly surprised.

Of course I don't work for anyone involved with the paper, and with no

drawl
I could never make it at Packard.




  #3   Report Post  
George
 
Posts: n/a
Default

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merc...g-adiscs-higre

I'm sure someone else sells the stuff, or will soon, but right now I'd have
to say if you follow my advice you're following a fool.

Went downstairs while Susan was starting the pies and chucked up a piece I
had dried in the microwave. I had dried it to the point of smoke, which I
quickly extinguished. Sure enough, in the thickest portion - near the
bottom, I discovered brown charring as I was hollowing the interior. Down
and down I went, finally seeing light at the end of the char - just prior to
cutting through the base. Before the tenon folks jump in, yes, I held it
with a recess, but a tenon would have just resulted in a surprise a bit
farther down.

Curly hard maple funnel, anyone?

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
The description of the "Packard Hi-per" sanding discs" is interesting.
Is the sanding discs made by Packard or is it a branded name? What is the
cost per sanding disc for 2 and 3 inches.



  #4   Report Post  
Lyn J. Mangiameli
 
Posts: n/a
Default

They are from Performance Abrasives and have been around for a while,
but not widely distributed. I got some early samples for my interminable
comparative abrasive tests and have been very pleased with it for the
coarser grits on larger forms. Its not as flexible as most others, so
not as good for tighter inside curves, but works very well for most
external sanding, or on larger bowls. Packard consistently offers the
most comprehensive range of passvie and power sanding supplies, and is a
good source.

Lyn


Denis Marier wrote:
The description of the "Packard Hi-per" sanding discs" is interesting.
Is the sanding discs made by Packard or is it a branded name? What is the
cost per sanding disc for 2 and 3 inches.
TIA
.
"George" george@least wrote in message
...

Nobody loves sanding, and I hate it more than most in the group, so I'd


like

to pass along a "buy" recommendation for the Green "Hi-per" sanding discs.
They're cloth-backed for good wear, have a resin-on-resin adhesive, and


the

grade, on the disks from Packard, is printed every half inch on the Velcro
backing.

I got the assortment, just to give it a try, and have worked both wet and
dry wood with it. The 120 is extremely sharp and cuts aggressively even


on

wet wood. It cuts so aggressively that I prefer to use the 180 to start


on

dry, but it loads less and sands more between cleanings than even my Power
Lock resin-on-resin disks on warp-and-go pieces like the wet beech I


worked

last evening. I am afraid to try the 80, after seeing what the 120 will


do.

Where it really comes into its own is in the finer grades, where I was
extremely disappointed with the "gold" versions, returning to the


Stearated

Rhino brand after multiple disconnects between Velcro and paper. This


stuff

seems to hold better, even when you stop the lathe and put maybe a bit too
much pressure on that _one_ spot, trying to avoid going back one grit.

I'm sure other places than Packard have it, but if you're looking to fill
out an order to enough to justify the shipping, you might try adding this,
as I did. I was pleasantly surprised.

Of course I don't work for anyone involved with the paper, and with no


drawl

I could never make it at Packard.






  #5   Report Post  
Dave Mundt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Greetings and Salutations...

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 10:06:51 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merc...g-adiscs-higre

I'm sure someone else sells the stuff, or will soon, but right now I'd have
to say if you follow my advice you're following a fool.

Went downstairs while Susan was starting the pies and chucked up a piece I
had dried in the microwave. I had dried it to the point of smoke, which I
quickly extinguished. Sure enough, in the thickest portion - near the
bottom, I discovered brown charring as I was hollowing the interior. Down
and down I went, finally seeing light at the end of the char - just prior to
cutting through the base. Before the tenon folks jump in, yes, I held it
with a recess, but a tenon would have just resulted in a surprise a bit
farther down.

Curly hard maple funnel, anyone?


Haw! Been there, Done That. Fixed the problem the
classical way - I rounded out the hole a bit more, glued in a nice
plug of a contrasting wood and turned (yes...I know...) it into
a design decision!
Regards
Dave Mundt



  #6   Report Post  
George
 
Posts: n/a
Default

SWMBO has another suggestion. "If you make a cherry cap and clapper, people
will think it's a big bell."

Or maybe she just said I was a ding-a-ling.


"Dave Mundt" wrote in message
.. .

Curly hard maple funnel, anyone?


Haw! Been there, Done That. Fixed the problem the
classical way - I rounded out the hole a bit more, glued in a nice
plug of a contrasting wood and turned (yes...I know...) it into
a design decision!



  #7   Report Post  
Denis Marier
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I had problems with sand paper disks in the past. I had de-lamination with
disks from a discount outlet. My drill is a 5 A with variable speed. I
suspect that the drill's RPM could be running too fast (even with the
variable speed) and caused the de-lamination. Conversely when I use good
quality sanding disk I do not get de-laminations. I wonder if your
comparative abrasive tests is available.

"Lyn J. Mangiameli" wrote in message
nk.net...
They are from Performance Abrasives and have been around for a while,
but not widely distributed. I got some early samples for my interminable
comparative abrasive tests and have been very pleased with it for the
coarser grits on larger forms. Its not as flexible as most others, so
not as good for tighter inside curves, but works very well for most
external sanding, or on larger bowls. Packard consistently offers the
most comprehensive range of passvie and power sanding supplies, and is a
good source.

Lyn


Denis Marier wrote:
The description of the "Packard Hi-per" sanding discs" is interesting.
Is the sanding discs made by Packard or is it a branded name? What is

the
cost per sanding disc for 2 and 3 inches.
TIA
.
"George" george@least wrote in message
...

Nobody loves sanding, and I hate it more than most in the group, so I'd


like

to pass along a "buy" recommendation for the Green "Hi-per" sanding

discs.
They're cloth-backed for good wear, have a resin-on-resin adhesive, and


the

grade, on the disks from Packard, is printed every half inch on the

Velcro
backing.

I got the assortment, just to give it a try, and have worked both wet

and
dry wood with it. The 120 is extremely sharp and cuts aggressively even


on

wet wood. It cuts so aggressively that I prefer to use the 180 to start


on

dry, but it loads less and sands more between cleanings than even my

Power
Lock resin-on-resin disks on warp-and-go pieces like the wet beech I


worked

last evening. I am afraid to try the 80, after seeing what the 120 will


do.

Where it really comes into its own is in the finer grades, where I was
extremely disappointed with the "gold" versions, returning to the


Stearated

Rhino brand after multiple disconnects between Velcro and paper. This


stuff

seems to hold better, even when you stop the lathe and put maybe a bit

too
much pressure on that _one_ spot, trying to avoid going back one grit.

I'm sure other places than Packard have it, but if you're looking to

fill
out an order to enough to justify the shipping, you might try adding

this,
as I did. I was pleasantly surprised.

Of course I don't work for anyone involved with the paper, and with no


drawl

I could never make it at Packard.








  #8   Report Post  
Lyn J. Mangiameli
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Alas, not yet, and it is much overdue. Some folks like to condense the
choices down to a couple of simple rules of thumb based on the abrasive
and binder, but I have tried to take a different approach that
recognizes the interactive effects of both abrasive disk and backing pad
(not to mention pressure, speed and characteristics of the wood
abraded). Developing a methodology to do this objectively has been
maddening, and I've gone down some blind alleys. I'm still working on it
though, and will post when I have something scientifically defensible to
say.

Lyn

Denis Marier wrote:
I had problems with sand paper disks in the past. I had de-lamination with
disks from a discount outlet. My drill is a 5 A with variable speed. I
suspect that the drill's RPM could be running too fast (even with the
variable speed) and caused the de-lamination. Conversely when I use good
quality sanding disk I do not get de-laminations. I wonder if your
comparative abrasive tests is available.

"Lyn J. Mangiameli" wrote in message
nk.net...

They are from Performance Abrasives and have been around for a while,
but not widely distributed. I got some early samples for my interminable
comparative abrasive tests and have been very pleased with it for the
coarser grits on larger forms. Its not as flexible as most others, so
not as good for tighter inside curves, but works very well for most
external sanding, or on larger bowls. Packard consistently offers the
most comprehensive range of passvie and power sanding supplies, and is a
good source.

Lyn


Denis Marier wrote:

The description of the "Packard Hi-per" sanding discs" is interesting.
Is the sanding discs made by Packard or is it a branded name? What is


the

cost per sanding disc for 2 and 3 inches.
TIA
.
"George" george@least wrote in message
...


Nobody loves sanding, and I hate it more than most in the group, so I'd

like


to pass along a "buy" recommendation for the Green "Hi-per" sanding


discs.

They're cloth-backed for good wear, have a resin-on-resin adhesive, and

the


grade, on the disks from Packard, is printed every half inch on the


Velcro

backing.

I got the assortment, just to give it a try, and have worked both wet


and

dry wood with it. The 120 is extremely sharp and cuts aggressively even

on


wet wood. It cuts so aggressively that I prefer to use the 180 to start

on


dry, but it loads less and sands more between cleanings than even my


Power

Lock resin-on-resin disks on warp-and-go pieces like the wet beech I

worked


last evening. I am afraid to try the 80, after seeing what the 120 will

do.


Where it really comes into its own is in the finer grades, where I was
extremely disappointed with the "gold" versions, returning to the

Stearated


Rhino brand after multiple disconnects between Velcro and paper. This

stuff


seems to hold better, even when you stop the lathe and put maybe a bit


too

much pressure on that _one_ spot, trying to avoid going back one grit.

I'm sure other places than Packard have it, but if you're looking to


fill

out an order to enough to justify the shipping, you might try adding


this,

as I did. I was pleasantly surprised.

Of course I don't work for anyone involved with the paper, and with no

drawl


I could never make it at Packard.








  #9   Report Post  
Denis Marier
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I suspect that some of these basement bargain outlets are moving good sand
paper which the shelves life has expired or not suitable for mass
production. What is the shelves life for sand paper? No one seems to know
exactly how long can sand paper be stored. The humidity, temperature and
other factors may impair the binder and the backing. The proof is in the
pudding. I have send for a Packard's catalog and will purchase a small
quantity of sanding disc made by Performance Abrasives. Den.

"Lyn J. Mangiameli" wrote in message
ink.net...
Alas, not yet, and it is much overdue. Some folks like to condense the
choices down to a couple of simple rules of thumb based on the abrasive
and binder, but I have tried to take a different approach that
recognizes the interactive effects of both abrasive disk and backing pad
(not to mention pressure, speed and characteristics of the wood
abraded). Developing a methodology to do this objectively has been
maddening, and I've gone down some blind alleys. I'm still working on it
though, and will post when I have something scientifically defensible to
say.

Lyn

Denis Marier wrote:
I had problems with sand paper disks in the past. I had de-lamination

with
disks from a discount outlet. My drill is a 5 A with variable speed. I
suspect that the drill's RPM could be running too fast (even with the
variable speed) and caused the de-lamination. Conversely when I use good
quality sanding disk I do not get de-laminations. I wonder if your
comparative abrasive tests is available.

"Lyn J. Mangiameli" wrote in message
nk.net...

They are from Performance Abrasives and have been around for a while,
but not widely distributed. I got some early samples for my interminable
comparative abrasive tests and have been very pleased with it for the
coarser grits on larger forms. Its not as flexible as most others, so
not as good for tighter inside curves, but works very well for most
external sanding, or on larger bowls. Packard consistently offers the
most comprehensive range of passvie and power sanding supplies, and is a
good source.

Lyn


Denis Marier wrote:

The description of the "Packard Hi-per" sanding discs" is interesting.
Is the sanding discs made by Packard or is it a branded name? What is


the

cost per sanding disc for 2 and 3 inches.
TIA
.
"George" george@least wrote in message
...


Nobody loves sanding, and I hate it more than most in the group, so

I'd

like


to pass along a "buy" recommendation for the Green "Hi-per" sanding


discs.

They're cloth-backed for good wear, have a resin-on-resin adhesive,

and

the


grade, on the disks from Packard, is printed every half inch on the


Velcro

backing.

I got the assortment, just to give it a try, and have worked both wet


and

dry wood with it. The 120 is extremely sharp and cuts aggressively

even

on


wet wood. It cuts so aggressively that I prefer to use the 180 to

start

on


dry, but it loads less and sands more between cleanings than even my


Power

Lock resin-on-resin disks on warp-and-go pieces like the wet beech I

worked


last evening. I am afraid to try the 80, after seeing what the 120

will

do.


Where it really comes into its own is in the finer grades, where I was
extremely disappointed with the "gold" versions, returning to the

Stearated


Rhino brand after multiple disconnects between Velcro and paper. This

stuff


seems to hold better, even when you stop the lathe and put maybe a bit


too

much pressure on that _one_ spot, trying to avoid going back one grit.

I'm sure other places than Packard have it, but if you're looking to


fill

out an order to enough to justify the shipping, you might try adding


this,

as I did. I was pleasantly surprised.

Of course I don't work for anyone involved with the paper, and with no

drawl


I could never make it at Packard.










  #10   Report Post  
Lyn J. Mangiameli
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Hi again Denis,

You bring up a little disussed but very significant component of sanding
disc performance. Many,indeed, most sanding disks still use hide glues
for either their binder or to attach the velcro to the backing. Hide
glue is notorious for its vulnerablility to heat in particular, but also
moisture, so is it any surprise the velcro so quickly delaminates under
the heat of high speed power sanding. PSA glues often do better for
heat, but their adhesion decreases with time, thus shelf life is a
significant factor with them.

There are just a lot of variables that go into a good sanding disk, many
of which are hidden to superficial inspection.

Lyn

Denis Marier wrote:

I suspect that some of these basement bargain outlets are moving good sand
paper which the shelves life has expired or not suitable for mass
production. What is the shelves life for sand paper? No one seems to know
exactly how long can sand paper be stored. The humidity, temperature and
other factors may impair the binder and the backing. The proof is in the
pudding. I have send for a Packard's catalog and will purchase a small
quantity of sanding disc made by Performance Abrasives. Den.

"Lyn J. Mangiameli" wrote in message
ink.net...


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