what is the total cost for tools and machine to get started in turning?

$199 for a Jet Mini Lathe. Another $50 for a cheap starter set of tools.
That's enough to get you hooked. After that, it's every spare dollar you
can rake scrape or borrow to spend on $150 bowl gouges, $300 chucks and
$5000 lathes. A $100 grinder and $200 for a Wolverine sharpening jig. Just
joking, but not really, because turning is really, really addictive.

Barry


"Bret81C" wrote in message
...
what is the total cost for tools and machine to get started in turning?

For me it was about $1000. I took a class a t a local collage and the
teacher kept saying $1000. On the last day he was talking about the
different kind of chucks and some one asked how much they cost and his reply
was "didn't I tell you about the second $1000???"
I got a Jet 1236 some Sorby tools and a Wolverine sharpening jig set and it
was close to $900. Then I bought a slow speed ginder which was real close
to $100. So after being done there was not much left from my tax refund.
Probabley couldn't buy a cup of coffee with the change. As I remember the
tools were rough gouge, bowl gouge, spindle gouge, round nose scraper, skew
and parting tool. I think the collage had gotten a class discount from
Rocklers. I have been happy with it, but like any other hobby I drool at
the tool catalogs and would like more stuff. the good thing about the
collage class is you could see what turning was like and get familiar with
the tools before I made my purchaces. The down side was the class was 4
hours once a week on a Sunday. There was no way to reinforce what I had
learned on the weekend by practice during the week. I find there is a lot
of "feel" in turning. You can be shown the moves but you have to feel when
it is cutting right and the next weekend part of the time was getting back
in that groove. I hope you have a lot of fun and be safe.

Bruce
"Bret81C" wrote in message
...
what is the total cost for tools and machine to get started in turning?

I've had friends ask this question and the amount I always came up
with was around a thousand dollars - The profile of the outlay
differed depending on what they were interested in doing (Turning bed
posts - more $$ for the lathe, fewer for chucks, etc) but the total
starting cost always was in the same ball park. This wasn't the cost
to get a piece of wood spinning in their shop - that is less -but a
reasonable estimate for what they will want to aquire in the
relatively short term to accomplish their goals.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 21:23:16 -0800, "Bruce Ferguson"
wrote:

For me it was about $1000. I took a class a t a local collage and the
teacher kept saying $1000. On the last day he was talking about the
different kind of chucks and some one asked how much they cost and his reply
was "didn't I tell you about the second $1000???"
I got a Jet 1236 some Sorby tools and a Wolverine sharpening jig set and it
was close to $900. Then I bought a slow speed ginder which was real close
to $100. So after being done there was not much left from my tax refund.
Probabley couldn't buy a cup of coffee with the change. As I remember the
tools were rough gouge, bowl gouge, spindle gouge, round nose scraper, skew
and parting tool. I think the collage had gotten a class discount from
Rocklers. I have been happy with it, but like any other hobby I drool at
the tool catalogs and would like more stuff. the good thing about the
collage class is you could see what turning was like and get familiar with
the tools before I made my purchaces. The down side was the class was 4
hours once a week on a Sunday. There was no way to reinforce what I had
learned on the weekend by practice during the week. I find there is a lot
of "feel" in turning. You can be shown the moves but you have to feel when
it is cutting right and the next weekend part of the time was getting back
in that groove. I hope you have a lot of fun and be safe.

Bruce
"Bret81C" wrote in message
...
what is the total cost for tools and machine to get started in turning?

Barry N. Turner wrote:
$199 for a Jet Mini Lathe. Another $50 for a cheap starter set of tools.
That's enough to get you hooked. After that, it's every spare dollar you
can rake scrape or borrow to spend on $150 bowl gouges, $300 chucks and
$5000 lathes. A $100 grinder and $200 for a Wolverine sharpening jig. Just
joking, but not really, because turning is really, really addictive.

You really need a bandsaw too, or at least some means of preparing the
wood before it is mounted on the lathe.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
Wedding Favors ~ Artisan Crafted Gifts ~ One-of-a-Kind Woodturning

Bret81C wrote:
what is the total cost for tools and machine to get started in turning?

Bret,

You got some good, realistic replies for this day and age. On the other
hand, when I started in Junior High school by building my own lathe from
plans in Popular Mechanics magazine for litle or nothing, most
everything I needed my father had laying around; a motor, a 4' 4"x12"
plank, a couple of 3' pieces of black pipe, some plywood for a tailstock
and toolrest and I was in business. The shop teacher asked me to
demonstrate at Open House, I told him I didn't have any chisels. He goes
in the back store room, comes out with a handful of chisels with no
handles. So I borrowed a gouge with a handle from the wood shop, and set
out making handles for the chisels. That was in 1964, I still have the
chisels, some with the first handles I made. Don't have the lathe any
more. But I have 7 others.

Don

On 19 Nov 2004 02:35:14 GMT, (Bret81C) wrote:

what is the total cost for tools and machine to get started in turning?

That varies with what you plan to turn. I spent $4K on my Conover
Master lathe and about $500 for Sorby tools, the most expensive and
largest machine in my shop. I'm thinking you can probably get a
decent lathe and good set of tools for $1000, maybe a few hundred
more. Maybe you can find a used lathe and save some bucks, but don't
skimp on the tools. Mini lathes are less expensive.

Oops! And some wood..........don't forget the wood! Barry


"Derek Andrews" wrote in message
...
Barry N. Turner wrote:
$199 for a Jet Mini Lathe. Another $50 for a cheap starter set of
tools.
That's enough to get you hooked. After that, it's every spare dollar
you
can rake scrape or borrow to spend on $150 bowl gouges, $300 chucks and
$5000 lathes. A $100 grinder and $200 for a Wolverine sharpening jig.
Just
joking, but not really, because turning is really, really addictive.

You really need a bandsaw too, or at least some means of preparing the
wood before it is mounted on the lathe.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
Wedding Favors ~ Artisan Crafted Gifts ~ One-of-a-Kind Woodturning

"Derek Andrews" wrote in message
...
Barry N. Turner wrote:
$199 for a Jet Mini Lathe. Another $50 for a cheap starter set of tools.
That's enough to get you hooked. After that, it's every spare dollar you
can rake scrape or borrow to spend on $150 bowl gouges, $300 chucks and
$5000 lathes. A $100 grinder and $200 for a Wolverine sharpening jig.
Just
joking, but not really, because turning is really, really addictive.

You really need a bandsaw too, or at least some means of preparing the
wood before it is mounted on the lathe.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner
===============================
Hi,
I agree with Andrew about needing something to preshape the blank. If the
bandsaw is out of the budget right now, an electric chainsaw is an
economical alternative. However, don't look at it as a permanent cure. Most
people find that have a much shorter life than the pricier gasoline models.
With care, they should get you started with blank prep.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

I started up with an electric chain saw and now I have a gasoline one.
They both have their uses. On a Sunday morning or during the evenings when
in the garage I use the electric chainsaw. When on field trips I use the
gasoline one.
Felling, bucking to length and ripping in two halves is done right in the
field. As for the bandsaw I have not made my mind yet. Some people are
saying that an 18 inches one running on 220V is the answer. The later can
cost over a $1000.00 plus running a pony panel to get the proper voltage.
The existing one I have is an old 14 inches Rockwell.
It is only good to cut 8 inches OD blank and it is on its way out. For
larger blanks I use the electric chainsaw for trimming. I wish I would have
bought the electric chainsaw with an automatic oilier.

"Ken Moon" wrote in message
k.net...

"Derek Andrews" wrote in message
...
Barry N. Turner wrote:
$199 for a Jet Mini Lathe. Another $50 for a cheap starter set of
tools.
That's enough to get you hooked. After that, it's every spare dollar
you
can rake scrape or borrow to spend on $150 bowl gouges, $300 chucks and
$5000 lathes. A $100 grinder and $200 for a Wolverine sharpening jig.
Just
joking, but not really, because turning is really, really addictive.

You really need a bandsaw too, or at least some means of preparing the
wood before it is mounted on the lathe.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner
===============================
Hi,
I agree with Andrew about needing something to preshape the blank. If the
bandsaw is out of the budget right now, an electric chainsaw is an
economical alternative. However, don't look at it as a permanent cure.
Most
people find that have a much shorter life than the pricier gasoline
models.
With care, they should get you started with blank prep.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

Conversely in making a cost analyze to find out "What is the expense" the
present value approach is the favorite.
Too often I have purchased tools at bargain price only to find out that I
had to replace them with better quality at a higher cost. When working as
an apprentice electrician making $0.72 per hours I purchased my first pair
of plyer/cutter (made in the US) for $6.00. These are still in my tool box
and working great. The other approach is to not tally the cost or buying
what is needed for woodturning and enjoy every moment of it.

"Ken Moon" wrote in message
k.net...

"Derek Andrews" wrote in message
...
Barry N. Turner wrote:
$199 for a Jet Mini Lathe. Another $50 for a cheap starter set of
tools.
That's enough to get you hooked. After that, it's every spare dollar
you
can rake scrape or borrow to spend on $150 bowl gouges, $300 chucks and
$5000 lathes. A $100 grinder and $200 for a Wolverine sharpening jig.
Just
joking, but not really, because turning is really, really addictive.

You really need a bandsaw too, or at least some means of preparing the
wood before it is mounted on the lathe.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner
===============================
Hi,
I agree with Andrew about needing something to preshape the blank. If the
bandsaw is out of the budget right now, an electric chainsaw is an
economical alternative. However, don't look at it as a permanent cure.
Most
people find that have a much shorter life than the pricier gasoline
models.
With care, they should get you started with blank prep.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

8" OD, why? I have the same saw, and the limit is in depth of cut. OD is
limitless. I've done 4.5' tabletops on a circle-cutting jig.

Also, with enough power and a couple hundred Canadian for a riser kit, you
can increase the 6" cut depth to 12" for those odd times you might want it.

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
As for the bandsaw I have not made my mind yet. Some people are
saying that an 18 inches one running on 220V is the answer. The later can
cost over a $1000.00 plus running a pony panel to get the proper voltage.
The existing one I have is an old 14 inches Rockwell.
It is only good to cut 8 inches OD blank and it is on its way out. For
larger blanks I use the electric chainsaw for trimming. I wish I would
have
bought the electric chainsaw with an automatic oilier.

George, maybe I am looking to justify the purchase of a new bandsaw?
This Rockwell Beaver model 28115 is about 30 years old. After careful look
I found out that it is only a 10 inches. I cannot even get new tires.
Delta do not carry parts for it anymore. The only way I could rise the
height is to make a rising block with oak or have a welded construction
done. The blade length is not a problem over here we have them made to
measure. I concur with you. With a riser kit, proper table extension and
circle cutting fixture, jig and space the possibilities are greater. Not to
mention a good dust collecting outlet properly located at the bottom of the
lower pulley.
Thanks I'll see what I can do to improve the old Rockwell/Beaver bandsaw.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
8" OD, why? I have the same saw, and the limit is in depth of cut. OD is
limitless. I've done 4.5' tabletops on a circle-cutting jig.

Also, with enough power and a couple hundred Canadian for a riser kit, you
can increase the 6" cut depth to 12" for those odd times you might want
it.

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
As for the bandsaw I have not made my mind yet. Some people are
saying that an 18 inches one running on 220V is the answer. The later
can
cost over a $1000.00 plus running a pony panel to get the proper
voltage.
The existing one I have is an old 14 inches Rockwell.
It is only good to cut 8 inches OD blank and it is on its way out. For
larger blanks I use the electric chainsaw for trimming. I wish I would
have
bought the electric chainsaw with an automatic oilier.

The riser kit was based on your estimate of the 14" saw. I'd take your 10"
as a collector's item and move up to your level of comfort in cash outlay
for a new one.

You can get new tires. Places like Suffolk sell 10" tires if you want to
keep the saw for small work.
http://www.timberwolf1.com/band_saw_tires.asp

Might even scare up the odd part at
http://www.acetoolrepair.com/model_s...keyword=28-115

As to dust collection, use a magnet - mounted crevice tool and grab it as it
comes through the blade insert. Of course, this presumes you're using
something besides one of those "zero-clearance" types. Stuff blows back up
then. Learned that by experience, and now have a larger opening in the
insert.

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
George, maybe I am looking to justify the purchase of a new bandsaw?
This Rockwell Beaver model 28115 is about 30 years old. After careful
look
I found out that it is only a 10 inches. I cannot even get new tires.
Delta do not carry parts for it anymore. The only way I could rise the
height is to make a rising block with oak or have a welded construction
done. The blade length is not a problem over here we have them made to
measure. I concur with you. With a riser kit, proper table extension and
circle cutting fixture, jig and space the possibilities are greater. Not
to
mention a good dust collecting outlet properly located at the bottom of
the
lower pulley.
Thanks I'll see what I can do to improve the old Rockwell/Beaver bandsaw.

Bret81C wrote:
what is the total cost for tools and machine to get started in turning?

Nothing. Nada. Zip. There are a few up front costs anywhere from $500
to $2000 or more depending on what you already have and how fancy of
equipment you want to go with, but I began selling my turnings in '97
and just expanded my equipment as I made money. Turning more than paid
for itself! I now have a fairly complete shop w/bandsaw, drill press,
tablesaw, 12" planer, jointer, DC, handtools, etc. Some I had before,
but not most. Started on a Shopsmith, now long gone.

I turn just enough for it to remain fun. I sell through a shop downtown
and when I first started doing so, I told the lady that I'm a flaky
business man, and don't want to ruin the process for myself.
Consequently, if I want to go fishing instead of turning I do. She's
easy w/that, and it works out well for me. I do try to keep her well
stocked, especially during tourist season, but I don't beat myself up!

So, to answer your question, you can turn for free, sorta, if you want
to. It will take a bit of time, of course, to develop you skill to
consistantly produce pleasing forms...

....Kevin

--
Kevin Miller
http://wwww.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska

On 19 Nov 2004 02:35:14 GMT, (Bret81C) wrote:

what is the total cost for tools and machine to get started in turning?

Elastic. You can do it for very little, but if you have it you'll
spend it.

As an interesting exercise, try to see some real backwoods green
woodworking going on. Maybe you can do a camp-and-turn course. On
these courses you'll make a Windsor chair or something, camping out in
a coppice and turning on a sprung pole lathe. Hardly any of the tools
are store-bought, most of the metalwork was made by re-forging old
leafsprings, and things like the lathe are constructed for the course
itself. Not something I'd recommend doing as a habit, but it's an
excellent thing to have done once and have the experience of.

For more typical workshop stuff, spindle turning scrounged green wood
on a S/H lathe is very cheap. Couple of centres and maybe a faceplate
- you don't need a chuck. Four chisels are all you need (although
extras in other sizes can be more convenient). If you have spare cash,
find a slow grinder. More chisels if you want to do bowls too. A
little cash for finishing supplies, but brewing your own with basic
oils, waxes or shellac is cheaper than buying name-brand
wonder-polishes. Haunt junkshops for a couple of pairs of calipers.

The money mainly starts disappearing on complicated gadgets; magic
chucks, magic chisels. These are also those most likely to end up on
the shelf unused.

--
Smert' spamionam

Thanks for these two URL's. I have added them to my favorites.
I appreciate the information and have visited their sites. I have
identified the part number, availability and cost.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
The riser kit was based on your estimate of the 14" saw. I'd take your
10"
as a collector's item and move up to your level of comfort in cash outlay
for a new one.

You can get new tires. Places like Suffolk sell 10" tires if you want to
keep the saw for small work.
http://www.timberwolf1.com/band_saw_tires.asp

Might even scare up the odd part at
http://www.acetoolrepair.com/model_s...keyword=28-115

As to dust collection, use a magnet - mounted crevice tool and grab it as
it
comes through the blade insert. Of course, this presumes you're using
something besides one of those "zero-clearance" types. Stuff blows back
up
then. Learned that by experience, and now have a larger opening in the
insert.

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
George, maybe I am looking to justify the purchase of a new bandsaw?
This Rockwell Beaver model 28115 is about 30 years old. After careful
look
I found out that it is only a 10 inches. I cannot even get new tires.
Delta do not carry parts for it anymore. The only way I could rise the
height is to make a rising block with oak or have a welded construction
done. The blade length is not a problem over here we have them made to
measure. I concur with you. With a riser kit, proper table extension
and
circle cutting fixture, jig and space the possibilities are greater.
Not
to
mention a good dust collecting outlet properly located at the bottom of
the
lower pulley.
Thanks I'll see what I can do to improve the old Rockwell/Beaver
bandsaw.