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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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![]() Hi, newbie here... I'm selecting a bowl gouge, but am somewhat unsure as to the best width to get. My primary interest is in turning small boxes (8") and segmented vessels (10") on a Jet mini-lathe. I've decided that a 3/8" or 1/2" would probably best fit my needs. Versatility is more important than hogging speed. Which size would be preferable? Are the Crown gouges OK? Or are there completely different recommendations? Thanks, Greg G. |
#2
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In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice.
My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets. Jim Greg G. wrote: Hi, newbie here... I'm selecting a bowl gouge, but am somewhat unsure as to the best width to get. My primary interest is in turning small boxes (8") and segmented vessels (10") on a Jet mini-lathe. I've decided that a 3/8" or 1/2" would probably best fit my needs. Versatility is more important than hogging speed. Which size would be preferable? Are the Crown gouges OK? Or are there completely different recommendations? Thanks, Greg G. |
#3
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Jim Swank said:
In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice. My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets. Thanks Jim! I thought as much, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing out on any "trade secrets". I looked at a Sorby fingernail cut bowl gouge that I really like, but for $30 more, I'm not sure it's "all that". I guess if I really get the urge, I could re-grind the profile on the Crown. I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\ Greg G. |
#4
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Greg wrote:
I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\ Axminster has a new 3" chuck for $160, dang good price for a dang good name. At Craft Supplies USA: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/ Ken Grunke ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
#5
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Ken G. said:
Axminster has a new 3" chuck for $160, dang good price for a dang good name. At Craft Supplies USA: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/ Thanks for the info, Ken. I've seen Craft Supplies USA mentioned before, but didn't have the link. I notice that the aforementioned chuck tightens with a key rather than tommy bars - is this really preferable, or is it a matter of personal preference. I would assume that, as with a Jacobs chuck, you should tighten several times around the chuck, rather than depending on one tightening in one location. Greg G. |
#6
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![]() Greg G. wrote in message ... SNIP ........ I notice that the aforementioned chuck tightens with a key rather than tommy bars - is this really preferable, or is it a matter of personal preference. I would assume that, as with a Jacobs chuck, you should tighten several times around the chuck, rather than depending on one tightening in one location. ======================== The newer design chucks (Super Nova, big Oneways and Axminsters, etc.) use a key of some sort (varies by manufacturer), and this gives a much better mechanical advantage than the tommy bar types. This allows a tighter grip on the workpiece tenon insuring less chance of spontaneous departure of the blank. Not as exciting, but leads to a better end product. It also allows easier mounting of the blanks since you don't need the "third hand" that often occurs with tommy bars. Some production turners prefer the tommy bars since they are faster than the key tighteneing. Yes, tightening at all points insures a better grip. Ken Moon Webberville, TX |
#7
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I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't
have it's hard to know where to start IMHO. start and finish in chucks can be summed up in one word: Vicmarc. I got one three or so months ago and wouldn't part with it ! Kip Powers Rogers, AR |
#8
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Kip055 said:
I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't have it's hard to know where to start IMHO. start and finish in chucks can be summed up in one word: Vicmarc. I got one three or so months ago and wouldn't part with it ! Thanks for the input, Kip. I'll look into it. Greg G. |
#9
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I bought the small chuck from Penn State, trying to conserve $$. Big
mistake! I then bought a Oneway Talon chuck. You'd only regret the Talon one time - when you paid for it. There are other chucks with good reputations in the smaller size that may be just as good. Axminster has a good rep. Try to avoid the ones that use the tommy bars if you can. Jim Greg G. wrote: Jim Swank said: In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice. My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets. Thanks Jim! I thought as much, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing out on any "trade secrets". I looked at a Sorby fingernail cut bowl gouge that I really like, but for $30 more, I'm not sure it's "all that". I guess if I really get the urge, I could re-grind the profile on the Crown. I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\ Greg G. |
#10
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Jim Swank said:
I bought the small chuck from Penn State, trying to conserve $$. Big mistake! I then bought a Oneway Talon chuck. You'd only regret the Talon one time - when you paid for it. There are other chucks with good reputations in the smaller size that may be just as good. Axminster has a good rep. Try to avoid the ones that use the tommy bars if you can. Thanks for the info, Jim. I've seen the cheap ~$50 chucks and wasn't very impressed. But $160-200 is a fair expenditure - one that has to be justified to the Chief Domestic Comptroller. ;-) Maybe Santa will be nice this year... There is a tool dealer up the road that has an old stock Nova that he is selling for $98. I know it's an old design, but it was quite popular years ago. Greg G. |
#11
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Remind the "Chief Comptroller" of how much a good bass boat
costs...........(unless, of course you have one of those expensive things, too) Barry Greg G. wrote in message ... Jim Swank said: I bought the small chuck from Penn State, trying to conserve $$. Big mistake! I then bought a Oneway Talon chuck. You'd only regret the Talon one time - when you paid for it. There are other chucks with good reputations in the smaller size that may be just as good. Axminster has a good rep. Try to avoid the ones that use the tommy bars if you can. Thanks for the info, Jim. I've seen the cheap ~$50 chucks and wasn't very impressed. But $160-200 is a fair expenditure - one that has to be justified to the Chief Domestic Comptroller. ;-) Maybe Santa will be nice this year... There is a tool dealer up the road that has an old stock Nova that he is selling for $98. I know it's an old design, but it was quite popular years ago. Greg G. |
#12
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Also don't overlook the Vicmarc chuck. It uses an allen wrench to move the
jaws not an expensive keyed wrench. the only regret I have is that I didn't get the bigger one.I took a turning class at the local collage and when asked how much equipment would cost he would say about $1000. On the second to last day he was demoing with a scroll chuck. Up to this point we were useing jam chucks. Of course the question came up 'how much is that?" his answer " I didn't tell you about the second $1000????" Bruce Greg G. wrote in message ... Jim Swank said: In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice. My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets. Thanks Jim! I thought as much, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing out on any "trade secrets". I looked at a Sorby fingernail cut bowl gouge that I really like, but for $30 more, I'm not sure it's "all that". I guess if I really get the urge, I could re-grind the profile on the Crown. I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\ Greg G. |
#13
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Save your money and buy a Supernova or a Talon. Nova has a new Midi chuck
that you should probably look at as well. Don't buy cheap. By buying cheap, you don't always save money. Usually you have to go back a few days/weeks/months later and buy what you should have bought in the first place. A chuck is not a good place to skimp. Even Jet-mini-sized blanks can pack a powerful punch if they come out of the chuck. Barry Greg G. wrote in message ... Jim Swank said: In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice. My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets. Thanks Jim! I thought as much, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing out on any "trade secrets". I looked at a Sorby fingernail cut bowl gouge that I really like, but for $30 more, I'm not sure it's "all that". I guess if I really get the urge, I could re-grind the profile on the Crown. I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\ Greg G. |
#14
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Barry N. Turner said:
Save your money and buy a Supernova or a Talon. Nova has a new Midi chuck that you should probably look at as well. Don't buy cheap. By buying cheap, you don't always save money. Usually you have to go back a few days/weeks/months later and buy what you should have bought in the first place. A chuck is not a good place to skimp. Even Jet-mini-sized blanks can pack a powerful punch if they come out of the chuck. I learned as a kid to cry once concerning machinery aquisitions. But after buying the lathe, an extention bed, and 8 turning tools, I'll have to wait a bit longer for a chuck. Plenty of time to practice making spindles... ugghh.... :-\ Greg G. |
#15
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3/8 for a mini. I'd get a 1/2" detail gouge first, though. Better at
hollowing. M2 will do, powder is nice. http://www.packardwoodworks.com/ Get the house brand. Greg G. wrote in message news ![]() Hi, newbie here... I'm selecting a bowl gouge, but am somewhat unsure as to the best width to get. My primary interest is in turning small boxes (8") and segmented vessels (10") on a Jet mini-lathe. |
#16
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George said:
3/8 for a mini. I'd get a 1/2" detail gouge first, though. Better at hollowing. M2 will do, powder is nice. Thanks again for the info, George. Greg G. |
#17
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I have that chuck from Highland Hardware (from PSI) and while it is not as
nice as the Oneway Talon, it gets the job done for me. The trick in setting it up is to be sure all surfaces on the face of the chuck are clean before attaching the jaws, and be sure they are installed in the right order on the chuck face.. Greg G. wrote in message ... George said: 3/8 for a mini. I'd get a 1/2" detail gouge first, though. Better at hollowing. M2 will do, powder is nice. Thanks again for the info, George. Greg G. |
#18
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Mark Hopkins said:
I have that chuck from Highland Hardware (from PSI) and while it is not as nice as the Oneway Talon, it gets the job done for me. The trick in setting it up is to be sure all surfaces on the face of the chuck are clean before attaching the jaws, and be sure they are installed in the right order on the chuck face.. PSI? Never heard of them, but I'll do a search and try to find more info. I noticed it is no longer listed online, so they may have discontinued it. Thanks for the branding info. Greg G. |
#19
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Here's a link to the chuck at Penn State Industries.
http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant...egory_Code=CHU Greg G. wrote in message ... Mark Hopkins said: I have that chuck from Highland Hardware (from PSI) and while it is not as nice as the Oneway Talon, it gets the job done for me. The trick in setting it up is to be sure all surfaces on the face of the chuck are clean before attaching the jaws, and be sure they are installed in the right order on the chuck face.. PSI? Never heard of them, but I'll do a search and try to find more info. I noticed it is no longer listed online, so they may have discontinued it. Thanks for the branding info. Greg G. |
#20
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I have used a couple of different kinds of Crown as well as the Sorby
bowls gouges. I like the Crown version of the Ellsworth Signature Bowl Gouge the best. It has a very long handle. This helps with control especially in deeper bowls. It also has a more parabolic shape to its flute. If ground correctly this seems to work well (for me anyway) for a variety of cuts on both the inside and the outside of the bowl. |
#21
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Ted said:
I have used a couple of different kinds of Crown as well as the Sorby bowls gouges. I like the Crown version of the Ellsworth Signature Bowl Gouge the best. It has a very long handle. This helps with control especially in deeper bowls. It also has a more parabolic shape to its flute. If ground correctly this seems to work well (for me anyway) for a variety of cuts on both the inside and the outside of the bowl. Thanks for the info, Ted. I've heard about the Ellsworth grind, and think I have a page filed away somewhere that details grinding your own version on a standard gouge. Depending on the cost of said "Signature" gouge, I may try this. Greg G. |
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