Hello everyone,
I'm a newbie to turning, about a month now, and love it!
My question is - can a 3/4" or 1" roughing gouge be used to
rough/round down a bowl blank the same way you would rough/round down
a square blank for spindle work?

As of now I don't have a band saw to cut my bowl blanks perfectly
round, hopefully I'll have one in a month or two. Instead, I use my
10" miter saw to cut the corners off the blank so I'm left with more
of an octagon shape than a square. I try to cut even more than the
eight sides so I end up with a blank with say, 12 or 16 sides. Would
it make a huge difference if the wood is wet or seasoned?

So would a large roughing gouge do the trick here? Or am I just asking
for trouble.

I live in the SeaTac area and have a plentiful supply of Alder and
Madrona/Madrone. I know, not the best wood for bowls, but good to
practice on.
After cutting six green/wet Alder bowl blanks yesterday on the miter
saw, I had minor difficulty breathing. Kind of like asthma. Didn't
wear a dust mask until the fifth blank. Has anyone had similar
experiences?

Thanks in advance for any responses!
-Roy

Until I bought a large roughing gouge, I regularly used my roughing
gouge for the outside of bowl blanks. They were all face grain blanks,
though I doubt that matters.

All the cautions I've heard about roughing gouges seem to aply to the
inside vuts, although most are not explicitly stated in those terms.
I've heard others say it can be used inside as well, but I would
definitely not recommend that to a new turner.

Wet or seasoned will make a difference in how easily the wood cuts.
I've ntced little other difference in my couple years turning - you're
making the same cuts in the same way.

Jim


RoyFek43 wrote:
Hello everyone,
I'm a newbie to turning, about a month now, and love it!
My question is - can a 3/4" or 1" roughing gouge be used to
rough/round down a bowl blank the same way you would rough/round down
a square blank for spindle work?

As of now I don't have a band saw to cut my bowl blanks perfectly
round, hopefully I'll have one in a month or two. Instead, I use my
10" miter saw to cut the corners off the blank so I'm left with more
of an octagon shape than a square. I try to cut even more than the
eight sides so I end up with a blank with say, 12 or 16 sides. Would
it make a huge difference if the wood is wet or seasoned?

So would a large roughing gouge do the trick here? Or am I just asking
for trouble.

I live in the SeaTac area and have a plentiful supply of Alder and
Madrona/Madrone. I know, not the best wood for bowls, but good to
practice on.
After cutting six green/wet Alder bowl blanks yesterday on the miter
saw, I had minor difficulty breathing. Kind of like asthma. Didn't
wear a dust mask until the fifth blank. Has anyone had similar
experiences?

Thanks in advance for any responses!
-Roy

Yes, but not the same way. I would recommend you rough bottom to rim along
centerline, not attempting to "ride the bevel" until the piece is reasonably
circular, keeping the toolrest close, as always, so as not to give away
leverage. Take a peek at my page to see a roughing sequence I use which
takes advantage of big iron without fear. Since I don't rough out from the
headstock, I'll have to say your initial gouge presentation should resemble
a backward "C"with slow transition to a near "U" - cutting on the skewed
upper portion - as you begin the final surfacing.

I took some pictures for a friend a week or so ago to demonstrate, as he was
having problems with his gouge angles. I used a piece of cherry as a demo,
and got unexpected benefit from it. I'll try to get them in as a new page
on my personal pages at: http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeorge/index.html
The pictures he returned show no tearout, so he must have picked something
out from what I sent. Pay special attention to the shavings in your work,
they let you know how you're doing before you stop the lathe to look.
Matter of fact, he sent shavings pictures to show how he did it!

Presume your alder was less than fresh? Might be a mold/mildew allergy.
Minimum of dust mask recommended, as, other opinions notwithstanding, the
spores are everywhere, and in abundance in the woods.

"RoyFek43" wrote in message
om...
Hello everyone,
I'm a newbie to turning, about a month now, and love it!
My question is - can a 3/4" or 1" roughing gouge be used to
rough/round down a bowl blank the same way you would rough/round down
a square blank for spindle work?

After cutting six green/wet Alder bowl blanks yesterday on the miter
saw, I had minor difficulty breathing. Kind of like asthma. Didn't
wear a dust mask until the fifth blank. Has anyone had similar
experiences?

Roy
the best answer to "using a roughing gouge to turn down a bowl blank" is
"yeah, sort of." A bowl gouge is a lot better, IMHO, but a roughing
gouge can be used. I like a large Oland tool in either case. See my web
site for some hints on roughing.
Green wood is easier to rough than is dry. The cuts tend to be cleaner
and are a lot cooler.
If the dust is bothering you, wear a dust mask. I know it sounds simple
but many woods irritate various people. A dust mask helps a lot.
Besides, your lungs will like you for it.
--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://www.roundthewoods.com

Hi Roy, A roughing gouge is traversed along the toolrest axially,
parallel to the lathe bed to rough out of round spindle stock. To bring
out of round, bowl blanks into round and actually begin shaping them to
the usual bowl form a bowl gouge is best. It is traversed diagonally
along a toolrest set at an angle to the blank's tailstock face, Flute
leading and bevel not rubbing. At first you make very short bouncy cuts
out into space, but as more of the corner is removed (rounded) and you
approach the blank's head stock end the bevel can rub and things begin
to smooth out. Now the blank is round and already has a 'bowl shape'
without going thru an intermediate cylinder phase. HTH, Arch

p.s. Roy, if you are wondering, "wottenhell is he saying?" maybe
somebody will explain more clearly. A.

Fortiter,

The page is up, Arch. Pictures make a lot of words more meaningful.
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...20Pictures.htm

Headed to the grocery store, 'cause we're due for 7-12 of heavy stuff
tomorrow. Yuk!

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Hi Roy, A roughing gouge is traversed along the toolrest axially,
parallel to the lathe bed to rough out of round spindle stock. To bring
out of round, bowl blanks into round and actually begin shaping them to
the usual bowl form a bowl gouge is best. It is traversed diagonally
along a toolrest set at an angle to the blank's tailstock face, Flute
leading and bevel not rubbing. At first you make very short bouncy cuts
out into space, but as more of the corner is removed (rounded) and you
approach the blank's head stock end the bevel can rub and things begin
to smooth out. Now the blank is round and already has a 'bowl shape'
without going thru an intermediate cylinder phase. HTH, Arch

p.s. Roy, if you are wondering, "wottenhell is he saying?" maybe
somebody will explain more clearly. A.

Fortiter,

Roy

The simple answer is yes a roughing gouge can be used if you want to. You
could also use a skew if you felt so inclined!!!!!
The correct answer is no, the roughing gouge is not designed for bowl work
(cross grain work). It is designed for parallel grain work ie spindle type
work where the grain direction runs parallel to the bed of the lathe. The
roughing gouge is a forged tool as opposed to a bowl gouge which is milled
from a round bar. Consequently the bowl gouge is a more substantial tool
with a stronger tang going into a longer handle than the roughing gouge has.
The rouging gouge is usually a square grind whereas a bowl gouge usually has
the wings ground back making it safer to use on the internal curve of a
bowl.
Why use a roughing gouge when there are bowl gouges designed for the job?
--
Mark Hancock
http://www.markhancock.co.uk

Roy

I could not agree with Mark more there is simply no safer or more effective tool
to use on cross grained or face plate work than a deep fluted gouge milled from
solid steel bar. It is not generally called a bowl gouge with out good reason.

Whilst I personally feel it is not best practice to use a spindle tool on a
cross grained piece. The reverse however does hold true and it is perfectly safe
to use a bowl gouge on a spindle and in fact can be a very efficient roughing
tool when there are branches coming out of the log being turned at right angles
to the normal alignment of grain.

Gregory Moreton RPT

Web Site http://www.moreton.co.uk

Email

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message
...
If the dust is bothering you, wear a dust mask. I know it sounds simple
but many woods irritate various people. A dust mask helps a lot.
Besides, your lungs will like you for it.

I would dare to suggest that if the dust is bothering you, it is too late to
start thinking about putting on a dust mask. Damage will have already been
done. Try to get into the habit of putting it on as soon as (if not before)
you pick up a tool. Even if you have taken a break from the workshop, fine
dust can still be lingering in the air when you return and it is this fine
(often unseen) dust that can cause most damage.
--
Richard Hatton
Hertfordshire, UK

www.wotknots.dsl.pipex.com
(remove "nojunk" from address if responding by email)

Woodcut tools make solid shaft replaceable tip tools for serious bowl
turning. Downunder we generally turn larger bowls and the English tools
don't cut the mustard (or wood as efficiently) you can look on line at the
products and prices. For larger bowls I recommend the 5/8" RB16 tool which
will also fit the Hosaluk type handles.

Cheers Ken Port tool designer Woodcut tools
www.woodcut-tools.com
"Gregory Moreton RPT" wrote in message
...
Roy

I could not agree with Mark more there is simply no safer or more
effective tool
to use on cross grained or face plate work than a deep fluted gouge milled
from
solid steel bar. It is not generally called a bowl gouge with out good
reason.

Whilst I personally feel it is not best practice to use a spindle tool on
a
cross grained piece. The reverse however does hold true and it is
perfectly safe
to use a bowl gouge on a spindle and in fact can be a very efficient
roughing
tool when there are branches coming out of the log being turned at right
angles
to the normal alignment of grain.

Gregory Moreton RPT

Web Site http://www.moreton.co.uk

Email