(Q) Recommendation on width/brand of Bowl Gouge
 

Hi, newbie here...

I'm selecting a bowl gouge, but am somewhat unsure as to the best
width to get. My primary interest is in turning small boxes (8") and
segmented vessels (10") on a Jet mini-lathe. I've decided that a
3/8" or 1/2" would probably best fit my needs. Versatility is more
important than hogging speed.
Which size would be preferable?
Are the Crown gouges OK?
Or are there completely different recommendations?

Thanks,

Greg G.

In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice.
My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets.

Jim


Greg G. wrote:
Hi, newbie here...

I'm selecting a bowl gouge, but am somewhat unsure as to the best
width to get. My primary interest is in turning small boxes (8") and
segmented vessels (10") on a Jet mini-lathe. I've decided that a
3/8" or 1/2" would probably best fit my needs. Versatility is more
important than hogging speed.
Which size would be preferable?
Are the Crown gouges OK?
Or are there completely different recommendations?

Thanks,

Greg G.

Jim Swank said:

In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice.
My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets.

Thanks Jim! I thought as much, but wanted to make sure I wasn't
missing out on any "trade secrets". I looked at a Sorby fingernail
cut bowl gouge that I really like, but for $30 more, I'm not sure it's
"all that". I guess if I really get the urge, I could re-grind the
profile on the Crown.

I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't
have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on
a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws
for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\


Greg G.

Greg wrote:


I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't
have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on
a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws
for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\

Axminster has a new 3" chuck for $160, dang good price for a dang good
name. At Craft Supplies USA:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/

Ken Grunke



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I bought the small chuck from Penn State, trying to conserve $$. Big
mistake! I then bought a Oneway Talon chuck. You'd only regret the
Talon one time - when you paid for it.

There are other chucks with good reputations in the smaller size that
may be just as good. Axminster has a good rep. Try to avoid the ones
that use the tommy bars if you can.

Jim


Greg G. wrote:
Jim Swank said:


In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice.
My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets.


Thanks Jim! I thought as much, but wanted to make sure I wasn't
missing out on any "trade secrets". I looked at a Sorby fingernail
cut bowl gouge that I really like, but for $30 more, I'm not sure it's
"all that". I guess if I really get the urge, I could re-grind the
profile on the Crown.

I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't
have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on
a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws
for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\


Greg G.

3/8 for a mini. I'd get a 1/2" detail gouge first, though. Better at
hollowing.

M2 will do, powder is nice.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/ Get the house brand.

Greg G. wrote in message
...

Hi, newbie here...

I'm selecting a bowl gouge, but am somewhat unsure as to the best
width to get. My primary interest is in turning small boxes (8") and
segmented vessels (10") on a Jet mini-lathe.

I have used a couple of different kinds of Crown as well as the Sorby
bowls gouges. I like the Crown version of the Ellsworth Signature
Bowl Gouge the best. It has a very long handle. This helps with
control especially in deeper bowls. It also has a more parabolic
shape to its flute. If ground correctly this seems to work well (for
me anyway) for a variety of cuts on both the inside and the outside of
the bowl.

Joe Fleming said:

Greg,

Keep in mind that, for bowl gouges, English tools typical list the
size as the flute width, where a North American tool typically lists
the bar diameter. A Sorby or Crown 3/8" tool has a bar that is 1/2"
(or 13 mm). This is the size to get as others have said.

Please remember that you can grind any tool to the profile you like
such as the Sorby. Save the $$$ and grind the tool to the Sorby-like
fingernail grind.

For a sharpening reference, see the San Diego Woodturner's web page
under tips. I have posted a grinding handout there that explains a
fingernail grind.

http://www.tridsd.com/sdwt/index.html

Joe Fleming - San Diego

Thanks Joe!

I visited the link you posted. Lots of great info! I hope you/they
don't mind, but I downloaded many of your newsletters for offline
perusing - even though I live in Atlanta. They look professional and
informative. There is a dearth of creative/engineering info in our
library system, and I love to read anything current I can get my hands
on. I'm filing your link in my ever expanding library of favorites!


Greg G.

Ted said:

I have used a couple of different kinds of Crown as well as the Sorby
bowls gouges. I like the Crown version of the Ellsworth Signature
Bowl Gouge the best. It has a very long handle. This helps with
control especially in deeper bowls. It also has a more parabolic
shape to its flute. If ground correctly this seems to work well (for
me anyway) for a variety of cuts on both the inside and the outside of
the bowl.

Thanks for the info, Ted. I've heard about the Ellsworth grind, and
think I have a page filed away somewhere that details grinding your
own version on a standard gouge. Depending on the cost of said
"Signature" gouge, I may try this.


Greg G.

Ken G. said:


Axminster has a new 3" chuck for $160, dang good price for a dang good
name. At Craft Supplies USA:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/

Thanks for the info, Ken. I've seen Craft Supplies USA mentioned
before, but didn't have the link.

I notice that the aforementioned chuck tightens with a key rather than
tommy bars - is this really preferable, or is it a matter of personal
preference. I would assume that, as with a Jacobs chuck, you should
tighten several times around the chuck, rather than depending on one
tightening in one location.


Greg G.

Anonymous said:

Greg,
Here, FWIW, is my thinking on the matter. I bought a small utility grade
4-jaw and a small utility grade 3-jaw chuck. These, added to an internal
chuck meant to turn watch cases, a couple of screw chucks and a couple
face plates will be enough to learn what I am doing and also get a few
pieces off the lathe to sell to buy the fancier stuff as I figure out
what I need. As of this moment and subject to change without notice I
doubt if I will ever get another 4-jaw chuck and it will be a while
before I get much use out of the screw chucks / face plates. I DO use the
3-jaw chuck and a #2MT pen mandrel quite a bit.

Recently Woodcrafters had a 30% off sale on many of their Sorby tools. I
bought a doodly-whacker thingie for hollowing out things that works
pretty well and an oval skew that you can have when you pry my cold,
dead, fingers from it.

I think Sorby tools come under the general heading of "Priced way too
high ... but worth it." Good steel, good shape, good 'feel'. Sky-high
prices ("30% off" meant nearly $30 on the hollower) but I just can't
see $90 for a hand-held single point cutting tool. That said, keep an eye
out for one on sale ... IMHO it's well worth owning.

Thank for the info, Bill.

I saw the Woodcraft Sorby Sale at the local store, but didn't buy
anything as I did not have a lathe at that time. I have subsequently
gone to their web site, but no mention on whether the sale is still
ongoing - and I haven't called to ask. It's so darned far to drive
through heavy metro traffic that I'm hesitant to return. It could
easily cost me 3 hours of time that I can't afford to lose right now.


Greg G.

Jim Swank said:

I bought the small chuck from Penn State, trying to conserve $$. Big
mistake! I then bought a Oneway Talon chuck. You'd only regret the
Talon one time - when you paid for it.

There are other chucks with good reputations in the smaller size that
may be just as good. Axminster has a good rep. Try to avoid the ones
that use the tommy bars if you can.

Thanks for the info, Jim.
I've seen the cheap ~$50 chucks and wasn't very impressed. But
$160-200 is a fair expenditure - one that has to be justified to the
Chief Domestic Comptroller. ;-) Maybe Santa will be nice this year...

There is a tool dealer up the road that has an old stock Nova that he
is selling for $98. I know it's an old design, but it was quite
popular years ago.


Greg G.

Also don't overlook the Vicmarc chuck. It uses an allen wrench to move the
jaws not an expensive keyed wrench. the only regret I have is that I
didn't get the bigger one.I took a turning class at the local collage and
when asked how much equipment would cost he would say about $1000. On the
second to last day he was demoing with a scroll chuck. Up to this point we
were useing jam chucks. Of course the question came up 'how much is that?"
his answer " I didn't tell you about the second $1000????"

Bruce
Greg G. wrote in message
...
Jim Swank said:

In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice.
My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets.

Thanks Jim! I thought as much, but wanted to make sure I wasn't
missing out on any "trade secrets". I looked at a Sorby fingernail
cut bowl gouge that I really like, but for $30 more, I'm not sure it's
"all that". I guess if I really get the urge, I could re-grind the
profile on the Crown.

I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't
have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on
a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws
for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\


Greg G.

George said:

3/8 for a mini. I'd get a 1/2" detail gouge first, though. Better at
hollowing.

M2 will do, powder is nice.

Thanks again for the info, George.


Greg G.

Greg G. wrote in message
...

SNIP ........
I notice that the aforementioned chuck tightens with a key rather than
tommy bars - is this really preferable, or is it a matter of personal
preference. I would assume that, as with a Jacobs chuck, you should
tighten several times around the chuck, rather than depending on one
tightening in one location.
========================
The newer design chucks (Super Nova, big Oneways and Axminsters, etc.) use a
key of some sort (varies by manufacturer), and this gives a much better
mechanical advantage than the tommy bar types. This allows a tighter grip on
the workpiece tenon insuring less chance of spontaneous departure of the
blank. Not as exciting, but leads to a better end product. It also allows
easier mounting of the blanks since you don't need the "third hand" that
often occurs with tommy bars. Some production turners prefer the tommy bars
since they are faster than the key tighteneing.

Yes, tightening at all points insures a better grip.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

Save your money and buy a Supernova or a Talon. Nova has a new Midi chuck
that you should probably look at as well. Don't buy cheap. By buying
cheap, you don't always save money. Usually you have to go back a few
days/weeks/months later and buy what you should have bought in the first
place. A chuck is not a good place to skimp. Even Jet-mini-sized blanks
can pack a powerful punch if they come out of the chuck.

Barry


Greg G. wrote in message
...
Jim Swank said:

In that size range, and for a beginner, the 3/8 will be a better choice.
My first bowl gouge was a 3/8 Crown, and I've no regrets.

Thanks Jim! I thought as much, but wanted to make sure I wasn't
missing out on any "trade secrets". I looked at a Sorby fingernail
cut bowl gouge that I really like, but for $30 more, I'm not sure it's
"all that". I guess if I really get the urge, I could re-grind the
profile on the Crown.

I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't
have it's hard to know where to start. I'm not ready to spend $200 on
a Oneway, but Highland Hardware has a small chuck with auxiliary jaws
for about $100 - I've heard nothing either good or bad about it. :-\


Greg G.

Remind the "Chief Comptroller" of how much a good bass boat
costs...........(unless, of course you have one of those expensive things,
too)

Barry


Greg G. wrote in message
...
Jim Swank said:

I bought the small chuck from Penn State, trying to conserve $$. Big
mistake! I then bought a Oneway Talon chuck. You'd only regret the
Talon one time - when you paid for it.

There are other chucks with good reputations in the smaller size that
may be just as good. Axminster has a good rep. Try to avoid the ones
that use the tommy bars if you can.

Thanks for the info, Jim.
I've seen the cheap ~$50 chucks and wasn't very impressed. But
$160-200 is a fair expenditure - one that has to be justified to the
Chief Domestic Comptroller. ;-) Maybe Santa will be nice this year...

There is a tool dealer up the road that has an old stock Nova that he
is selling for $98. I know it's an old design, but it was quite
popular years ago.


Greg G.

I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't
have it's hard to know where to start

IMHO. start and finish in chucks can be summed up in one word: Vicmarc. I got
one three or so months ago and wouldn't part with it !

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

I have that chuck from Highland Hardware (from PSI) and while it is not as
nice as the Oneway Talon, it gets the job done for me. The trick in setting
it up is to be sure all surfaces on the face of the chuck are clean before
attaching the jaws, and be sure they are installed in the right order on the
chuck face..

Greg G. wrote in message
...
George said:

3/8 for a mini. I'd get a 1/2" detail gouge first, though. Better at
hollowing.

M2 will do, powder is nice.

Thanks again for the info, George.


Greg G.

Next time you are at Highland Hardware, get Paul to show you the Oland Tool
setup. I bought one back in the summer and really like it. You don't need to
"sharpen" it, but just keep it "honed" really fine. It really made a
difference in the quality of my turnings that are not related to skill.
grin

I'm over in Stone Mountain. Where are you?

Greg G. wrote in message
...
Anonymous said:

Greg,
Here, FWIW, is my thinking on the matter. I bought a small utility grade
4-jaw and a small utility grade 3-jaw chuck. These, added to an internal
chuck meant to turn watch cases, a couple of screw chucks and a couple
face plates will be enough to learn what I am doing and also get a few
pieces off the lathe to sell to buy the fancier stuff as I figure out
what I need. As of this moment and subject to change without notice I
doubt if I will ever get another 4-jaw chuck and it will be a while
before I get much use out of the screw chucks / face plates. I DO use the
3-jaw chuck and a #2MT pen mandrel quite a bit.

Recently Woodcrafters had a 30% off sale on many of their Sorby tools. I
bought a doodly-whacker thingie for hollowing out things that works
pretty well and an oval skew that you can have when you pry my cold,
dead, fingers from it.

I think Sorby tools come under the general heading of "Priced way too
high ... but worth it." Good steel, good shape, good 'feel'. Sky-high
prices ("30% off" meant nearly $30 on the hollower) but I just can't
see $90 for a hand-held single point cutting tool. That said, keep an eye
out for one on sale ... IMHO it's well worth owning.

Thank for the info, Bill.

I saw the Woodcraft Sorby Sale at the local store, but didn't buy
anything as I did not have a lathe at that time. I have subsequently
gone to their web site, but no mention on whether the sale is still
ongoing - and I haven't called to ask. It's so darned far to drive
through heavy metro traffic that I'm hesitant to return. It could
easily cost me 3 hours of time that I can't afford to lose right now.


Greg G.

Kip055 said:

I'm also looking at chucks - there are so many other things I don't
have it's hard to know where to start

IMHO. start and finish in chucks can be summed up in one word: Vicmarc. I got
one three or so months ago and wouldn't part with it !

Thanks for the input, Kip. I'll look into it.


Greg G.

Mark Hopkins said:

Next time you are at Highland Hardware, get Paul to show you the Oland Tool
setup. I bought one back in the summer and really like it. You don't need to
"sharpen" it, but just keep it "honed" really fine. It really made a
difference in the quality of my turnings that are not related to skill.
grin

I'm over in Stone Mountain. Where are you?

Thanks, Mark. I'll read up on it in their catalog. I've heard
mention of the Oland Tools, but have never handled any.

I'm in unincorporated Cobb - sort of near Smyrnosa, at the corners of
Vinings and Mableton.


Greg G.

Barry N. Turner said:

Remind the "Chief Comptroller" of how much a good bass boat
costs...........(unless, of course you have one of those expensive things,
too)

He he...
Nope, no bass boat - but plenty of other "hobbies". I got the lathe
last week while she was in CA visiting family, and am hoping she
hasn't noticed... Yea, right... Like the ornate cherry box she found
in the microwave wasn't a clue - as was the bandsaw jewelry box made
the day after I bought a bandsaw. BUSTED! ;-)


Greg G.

Barry N. Turner said:

Save your money and buy a Supernova or a Talon. Nova has a new Midi chuck
that you should probably look at as well. Don't buy cheap. By buying
cheap, you don't always save money. Usually you have to go back a few
days/weeks/months later and buy what you should have bought in the first
place. A chuck is not a good place to skimp. Even Jet-mini-sized blanks
can pack a powerful punch if they come out of the chuck.

I learned as a kid to cry once concerning machinery aquisitions. But
after buying the lathe, an extention bed, and 8 turning tools, I'll
have to wait a bit longer for a chuck. Plenty of time to practice
making spindles... ugghh.... :-\


Greg G.

Mark Hopkins said:

I have that chuck from Highland Hardware (from PSI) and while it is not as
nice as the Oneway Talon, it gets the job done for me. The trick in setting
it up is to be sure all surfaces on the face of the chuck are clean before
attaching the jaws, and be sure they are installed in the right order on the
chuck face..

PSI? Never heard of them, but I'll do a search and try to find more
info. I noticed it is no longer listed online, so they may have
discontinued it. Thanks for the branding info.


Greg G.

Here's a link to the chuck at Penn State Industries.

http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant...egory_Code=CHU

Greg G. wrote in message
...
Mark Hopkins said:

I have that chuck from Highland Hardware (from PSI) and while it is not
as
nice as the Oneway Talon, it gets the job done for me. The trick in
setting
it up is to be sure all surfaces on the face of the chuck are clean
before
attaching the jaws, and be sure they are installed in the right order on
the
chuck face..

PSI? Never heard of them, but I'll do a search and try to find more
info. I noticed it is no longer listed online, so they may have
discontinued it. Thanks for the branding info.


Greg G.