does anyone have more detailed info on this,
how long to leave it on, what woods it works well on,
how far it soaks in, will it contaminate food etc

Reyd,
I have sent some information to your email address

George

"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
does anyone have more detailed info on this,
how long to leave it on, what woods it works well on,
how far it soaks in, will it contaminate food etc



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http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html

Try the above website. He discribes the soap process.

Bruce
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
does anyone have more detailed info on this,
how long to leave it on, what woods it works well on,
how far it soaks in, will it contaminate food etc

thats why Im asking, I read that. It doesnt have the parts I'm interested
in, The effects of it on foodware, will it stay in the wood and create foam
every time something wet is in it, how far into the wood will it penetrate,
how long do I need to leave it on for it to soak. etc
in article , Bruce Ferguson at
wrote on 1/11/04 12:37 PM:

http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html

Try the above website. He discribes the soap process.

Bruce
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
does anyone have more detailed info on this,
how long to leave it on, what woods it works well on,
how far it soaks in, will it contaminate food etc

No effect on foodware. I trust you wash out salad bowls once a year or so!
*G*

No it won't create foam when something wet is put in it. The amount of LDD
that stays in the wood is almost infinitesimal as it is basically turned and
sanded away in the final process.

It penetrates only a few cells deep.

Long soaking times are not necessary unless you are stopping work on the
piece. Then it is best to leave it in the solution.

HTH,

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
thats why Im asking, I read that. It doesnt have the parts I'm interested
in, The effects of it on foodware, will it stay in the wood and create
foam
every time something wet is in it, how far into the wood will it
penetrate,
how long do I need to leave it on for it to soak. etc
in article , Bruce Ferguson
at
wrote on 1/11/04 12:37 PM:

http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html

Try the above website. He discribes the soap process.

Bruce
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
does anyone have more detailed info on this,
how long to leave it on, what woods it works well on,
how far it soaks in, will it contaminate food etc

so you submerge it? or can i just coat it on the lathe. Wouldn't you need
to apply it at the end instead then if it only goes a few cells deep?(on the
http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html site he says it conditions the wood and
makes it even better to turn, but woulnt that only last a little while(the
first few cuts) I'm confused as usual:-/
in article , Leif Thorvaldson at
wrote on 1/11/04 3:38 PM:

No effect on foodware. I trust you wash out salad bowls once a year or so!
*G*

No it won't create foam when something wet is put in it. The amount of LDD
that stays in the wood is almost infinitesimal as it is basically turned and
sanded away in the final process.

It penetrates only a few cells deep.

Long soaking times are not necessary unless you are stopping work on the
piece. Then it is best to leave it in the solution.

HTH,

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
thats why Im asking, I read that. It doesnt have the parts I'm interested
in, The effects of it on foodware, will it stay in the wood and create
foam
every time something wet is in it, how far into the wood will it
penetrate,
how long do I need to leave it on for it to soak. etc
in article , Bruce Ferguson
at
wrote on 1/11/04 12:37 PM:

http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html

Try the above website. He discribes the soap process.

Bruce
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
does anyone have more detailed info on this,
how long to leave it on, what woods it works well on,
how far it soaks in, will it contaminate food etc

In article , says...
so you submerge it? or can i just coat it on the lathe. Wouldn't you need
to apply it at the end instead then if it only goes a few cells deep?(on the
http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html site he says it conditions the wood and
makes it even better to turn, but woulnt that only last a little while(the
first few cuts) I'm confused as usual:-/

Yes, just submerge the wood in a tub of solution. I have a small
quantity of cherry soaking for the last few weeks- some partly turned,
some log blanks. Take it out of the tub, wipe it off, mount and turn. If
you need to stop and return to the piece later, just dump it back into
the tub. Once finished, you can dry in a bag, bucket, or your mom's
microwave (don't let her catch you). It seems to work so far- this is my
first time with soap, but I've used PEG in the past, and that was
pretty much the same treatment IIRC.

*PEG- Poly Ethylene Glycol. Toxic, oily, dangerous to house pets, toxic,
somewhat expensive, did I mention that it's TOXIC? However, it works
wonders for stabilizing fresh cut woods to avoid checking and splitting.

vic

Painting it on is not effective in my experience. I immerse the blank,
partially completed turning in the LDD solution. Yes, Ron is right. LDD's
greatness encompasses the fact that it stabilizes and conditions the wood.
You are correct that it would seem to have turned off whatever LDD there was
and that is why I suggest instant finishing, or sealing when you are done
with the piece. It takes a leap of faith to follow these instructions
thoroughly. You are new to woodturning so I don't have to fight the old
ways in you. The old-timer turners never met a chuck of wood that they
didn't like to swab with endcote/endseal/anchorseal and let dry for a couple
of years! In my home town of Eatonville, WA we have a hobby of watching the
fourway stop light blink on and off, but sitting and watching wood dry is a
bit much! *G*

Leif

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
so you submerge it? or can i just coat it on the lathe. Wouldn't you need
to apply it at the end instead then if it only goes a few cells deep?(on
the
http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html site he says it conditions the wood
and
makes it even better to turn, but woulnt that only last a little while(the
first few cuts) I'm confused as usual:-/
in article , Leif Thorvaldson at
wrote on 1/11/04 3:38 PM:

No effect on foodware. I trust you wash out salad bowls once a year or
so!
*G*

No it won't create foam when something wet is put in it. The amount of
LDD
that stays in the wood is almost infinitesimal as it is basically turned
and
sanded away in the final process.

It penetrates only a few cells deep.

Long soaking times are not necessary unless you are stopping work on the
piece. Then it is best to leave it in the solution.

HTH,

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
thats why Im asking, I read that. It doesnt have the parts I'm
interested
in, The effects of it on foodware, will it stay in the wood and create
foam
every time something wet is in it, how far into the wood will it
penetrate,
how long do I need to leave it on for it to soak. etc
in article , Bruce
Ferguson
at
wrote on 1/11/04 12:37 PM:

http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html

Try the above website. He discribes the soap process.

Bruce
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
does anyone have more detailed info on this,
how long to leave it on, what woods it works well on,
how far it soaks in, will it contaminate food etc

PEG is indigestible and food safe - included in pharmaceuticals and
cosmetics. You're probably thinking of ethylene glycol, which was used in
antifreeze. Run a quick net search or look at almost any lotion in the
cabinet and you'll find some length of PEG, commonly 50 to 150 .

It won't however, accept most finishes, and discolors the wood.

"Victor Radin" wrote in message
.net...

*PEG- Poly Ethylene Glycol. Toxic, oily, dangerous to house pets, toxic,
somewhat expensive, did I mention that it's TOXIC? However, it works
wonders for stabilizing fresh cut woods to avoid checking and splitting.

vic

In article ,
says...
PEG is indigestible and food safe - included in pharmaceuticals and
cosmetics. You're probably thinking of ethylene glycol, which was used in
antifreeze. Run a quick net search or look at almost any lotion in the
cabinet and you'll find some length of PEG, commonly 50 to 150 .

It won't however, accept most finishes, and discolors the wood.


Thanks George. Glad you caught the error. Yes, I did mean ethylene
glycol or antifreeze.

vic

Ill try it, If I ever manage to get some green wood(hopefully I'll get some
alder in the next month or so.). for as much fun as watching the fourway
stop. http://www.pagetutor.com/idiot/idiot.html .

in article , Leif Thorvaldson at
wrote on 1/11/04 10:35 PM:

Painting it on is not effective in my experience. I immerse the blank,
partially completed turning in the LDD solution. Yes, Ron is right. LDD's
greatness encompasses the fact that it stabilizes and conditions the wood.
You are correct that it would seem to have turned off whatever LDD there was
and that is why I suggest instant finishing, or sealing when you are done
with the piece. It takes a leap of faith to follow these instructions
thoroughly. You are new to woodturning so I don't have to fight the old
ways in you. The old-timer turners never met a chuck of wood that they
didn't like to swab with endcote/endseal/anchorseal and let dry for a couple
of years! In my home town of Eatonville, WA we have a hobby of watching the
fourway stop light blink on and off, but sitting and watching wood dry is a
bit much! *G*

Leif

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
so you submerge it? or can i just coat it on the lathe. Wouldn't you need
to apply it at the end instead then if it only goes a few cells deep?(on
the
http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html site he says it conditions the wood
and
makes it even better to turn, but woulnt that only last a little while(the
first few cuts) I'm confused as usual:-/
in article , Leif Thorvaldson at
wrote on 1/11/04 3:38 PM:

No effect on foodware. I trust you wash out salad bowls once a year or
so!
*G*

No it won't create foam when something wet is put in it. The amount of
LDD
that stays in the wood is almost infinitesimal as it is basically turned
and
sanded away in the final process.

It penetrates only a few cells deep.

Long soaking times are not necessary unless you are stopping work on the
piece. Then it is best to leave it in the solution.

HTH,

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
thats why Im asking, I read that. It doesnt have the parts I'm
interested
in, The effects of it on foodware, will it stay in the wood and create
foam
every time something wet is in it, how far into the wood will it
penetrate,
how long do I need to leave it on for it to soak. etc
in article , Bruce
Ferguson
at
wrote on 1/11/04 12:37 PM:

http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html

Try the above website. He discribes the soap process.

Bruce
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
does anyone have more detailed info on this,
how long to leave it on, what woods it works well on,
how far it soaks in, will it contaminate food etc

LDD is useful with "dry" wood also.

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
Ill try it, If I ever manage to get some green wood(hopefully I'll get
some
alder in the next month or so.). for as much fun as watching the fourway
stop. http://www.pagetutor.com/idiot/idiot.html .

in article , Leif Thorvaldson at
wrote on 1/11/04 10:35 PM:

Painting it on is not effective in my experience. I immerse the blank,
partially completed turning in the LDD solution. Yes, Ron is right.
LDD's
greatness encompasses the fact that it stabilizes and conditions the
wood.
You are correct that it would seem to have turned off whatever LDD there
was
and that is why I suggest instant finishing, or sealing when you are
done
with the piece. It takes a leap of faith to follow these instructions
thoroughly. You are new to woodturning so I don't have to fight the old
ways in you. The old-timer turners never met a chuck of wood that they
didn't like to swab with endcote/endseal/anchorseal and let dry for a
couple
of years! In my home town of Eatonville, WA we have a hobby of watching
the
fourway stop light blink on and off, but sitting and watching wood dry
is a
bit much! *G*

Leif

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
so you submerge it? or can i just coat it on the lathe. Wouldn't you
need
to apply it at the end instead then if it only goes a few cells
deep?(on
the
http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html site he says it conditions the wood
and
makes it even better to turn, but woulnt that only last a little
while(the
first few cuts) I'm confused as usual:-/
in article , Leif Thorvaldson at
wrote on 1/11/04 3:38 PM:

No effect on foodware. I trust you wash out salad bowls once a year
or
so!
*G*

No it won't create foam when something wet is put in it. The amount
of
LDD
that stays in the wood is almost infinitesimal as it is basically
turned
and
sanded away in the final process.

It penetrates only a few cells deep.

Long soaking times are not necessary unless you are stopping work on
the
piece. Then it is best to leave it in the solution.

HTH,

Leif
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
thats why Im asking, I read that. It doesnt have the parts I'm
interested
in, The effects of it on foodware, will it stay in the wood and
create
foam
every time something wet is in it, how far into the wood will it
penetrate,
how long do I need to leave it on for it to soak. etc
in article , Bruce
Ferguson
at
wrote on 1/11/04 12:37 PM:

http://www.ronkent.com/rontech.html

Try the above website. He discribes the soap process.

Bruce
"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
does anyone have more detailed info on this,
how long to leave it on, what woods it works well on,
how far it soaks in, will it contaminate food etc

Hi, Earl. Good luck with your attempt. Three comments:

a. "Blue" detergent? Is it for dishwashing? Also, some turners have
experienced color transfer to their turning. You might try a bit of it on a
sample of the wood. Leave it on for an hour or so and then wipe off. See
if the blue transfers to the wood.

b. I, too, am not a production turner; but, I would recommend returning your
turning to the solution if you are going to be away from it for any period
of time e.g., couple of hours.

Good luck! Any more questions probably ought to be sent directly to me as
there are *GASP* unbelievers in this newsgroup! Grouchy fellows, too! *G*

Leif
"Earl" wrote in message
om...
This sounds intriguing and I'm going to try it tomorrow. I am turning
mostly green wood as I am learning so don't want to waste my attempts
on expensive wood. I got your instructions out of the files section.
Against your instructions, I am trying one thing different, Leif. We
have no Costco in town or within 80 miles of town so I bought some
blue generic detergent from a local grocer. I have already mixed it
50/50 with water and will give it a go tomorrow unless you say STOP,
that you know the blue stuff won't work. Otherwise I will play with it
for awhile and see what happens. I'm very slow at turning so hopefully
I can get far enough without the wood warping before I give it another
dunk.

Earl

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 00:20:27 -0800, "Leif Thorvaldson"
wrote:

LDD is useful with "dry" wood also.

What's the point?
--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
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It stabilizes the wood and makes it easier to cut with the gouge, etc. Less
dust.

Leif
"Chuck" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 00:20:27 -0800, "Leif Thorvaldson"
wrote:

LDD is useful with "dry" wood also.

What's the point?
--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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