I'm purchasing an older Powermatic 90 wood lathe for 450$ in Dayton
Ohio this winter. I found it by asking a local cabinet maker about
older, american made lathes. It runs but is missing some parts and the
way its running concerns me a little. It isn't as quiet as I would
think it is capable of...anyone out there replace the bearings on one
of these? Also, the drive center may be seized in the #2 MT spindle.
Could pounding it out with a long peice of drill rod inflict any
damage ? Or do you remove the drive center another way. There are
other problems such as some missing parts but overall this lathe is
intact. The parts that it needs are mostly the things you purchase
separately anyway such as faceplates, live center set, outboard
faceplate. I would like to install the original style on-off switch,
there is none right now. Can any woodturners out there give me some
advice on how to proceed with the restoration?

I have a Powermatic "90" it is a very good machine for larger work (not
recomended for pen turning) It originally came with a long rod with a
knob handel(18 Inches) for a knock out rod for the MT #2 (hung just
below the Outboard head on the cabinet, the tail stock is the same #2 MT
and that is just realse when you do a full back out on the tail stock
crank handel. as for the bearings they are not all that bad to replace
(but of course I was a heavy equiptment mechanic any way, so not bad
from MY point of veiw) also the face plate for the outboard is a
different thread than the inboard thread the inboard is an 1 1/2" inch 6
TPI right hand thread, the outboard is a 1 1/8' 6tpi Left hand thread.
Now as for a switch there was NEVER any switch but the speed handel put
to the stop position for a powermatic. I Do not know what you may want
to do there Hmmm! as for some of these Items I found it handy to get a
hold of the powermatic people and find a good rep locally (which I don't
have) but the factory has been good with me as I have several Powermatic
Tools (I like them) all bought used, and I rebuilt. other than
Powermatic I found that some things can be bought and fit through
"Grizzly" I am sure other comanys can do some things as well. I want to
try and do a different four jaw chuck on the inboard of mine, I just
have not gone there yet. Hope this helps and have fun with your
Powermatic "90".

Bill wrote:
I'm purchasing an older Powermatic 90 wood lathe for 450$ in Dayton
Ohio this winter. I found it by asking a local cabinet maker about
older, american made lathes. It runs but is missing some parts and the
way its running concerns me a little. It isn't as quiet as I would
think it is capable of...anyone out there replace the bearings on one
of these? Also, the drive center may be seized in the #2 MT spindle.
Could pounding it out with a long peice of drill rod inflict any
damage ? Or do you remove the drive center another way. There are
other problems such as some missing parts but overall this lathe is
intact. The parts that it needs are mostly the things you purchase
separately anyway such as faceplates, live center set, outboard
faceplate. I would like to install the original style on-off switch,
there is none right now. Can any woodturners out there give me some
advice on how to proceed with the restoration?

An Appology here, I spoke to soon as I have the Powermatic Gapbed "90"
lathe and did not take into consideratin that you had the powermatic Bed
lathe bthe are simalar with the exception of the switch It could have
been an add on later or it was original Eqipment I am not familiar with
that Bed model Mine like I said is a Gapbed and the switch is built into
the Speed control lever So please accept my appology for my ignorance.
Byron

Bill wrote:
I'm purchasing an older Powermatic 90 wood lathe for 450$ in Dayton
Ohio this winter. I found it by asking a local cabinet maker about
older, american made lathes. It runs but is missing some parts and the
way its running concerns me a little. It isn't as quiet as I would
think it is capable of...anyone out there replace the bearings on one
of these? Also, the drive center may be seized in the #2 MT spindle.
Could pounding it out with a long peice of drill rod inflict any
damage ? Or do you remove the drive center another way. There are
other problems such as some missing parts but overall this lathe is
intact. The parts that it needs are mostly the things you purchase
separately anyway such as faceplates, live center set, outboard
faceplate. I would like to install the original style on-off switch,
there is none right now. Can any woodturners out there give me some
advice on how to proceed with the restoration?

Bill,
Remove the drive center by turning it. They can be impossible to
knock out and that much beating may mushroom the end of the center, damage
bearings, crack castings etc.

If it is a square spur dive you can find end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe
wrench etc to turn it. As a last resort a large vice grip will work. Lock
the spindle or put a wrench on the spindle nut and wedge the other end of
this wrench against the lathe bed or the center of the tool rest so you can
use both hands to turn the drive center.

It will also help to Squirt WD 40 or liquid wrench where the center enters
the taper this might penetrate and help loosen it.

happy turninng,
Al





"Bill" wrote in message
m...
I'm purchasing an older Powermatic 90 wood lathe for 450$ in Dayton
Ohio this winter. I found it by asking a local cabinet maker about
older, american made lathes. It runs but is missing some parts and the
way its running concerns me a little. It isn't as quiet as I would
think it is capable of...anyone out there replace the bearings on one
of these? Also, the drive center may be seized in the #2 MT spindle.
Could pounding it out with a long peice of drill rod inflict any
damage ? Or do you remove the drive center another way. There are
other problems such as some missing parts but overall this lathe is
intact. The parts that it needs are mostly the things you purchase
separately anyway such as faceplates, live center set, outboard
faceplate. I would like to install the original style on-off switch,
there is none right now. Can any woodturners out there give me some
advice on how to proceed with the restoration?

I would try to drive it first before twisting it. A big, quick, sharp blow
is much better than a bunch of little hits. Also, run the lathe to heat the
headstock up and then try it if it doesn't come loose when cold.
Billh


"Al Hockenbery" wrote in message
...
Bill,
Remove the drive center by turning it. They can be impossible to
knock out and that much beating may mushroom the end of the center,
damage
bearings, crack castings etc.

If it is a square spur dive you can find end wrench, adjustable wrench,
pipe
wrench etc to turn it. As a last resort a large vice grip will work. Lock
the spindle or put a wrench on the spindle nut and wedge the other end of
this wrench against the lathe bed or the center of the tool rest so you
can
use both hands to turn the drive center.

It will also help to Squirt WD 40 or liquid wrench where the center enters
the taper this might penetrate and help loosen it.

happy turninng,
Al





"Bill" wrote in message
m...
I'm purchasing an older Powermatic 90 wood lathe for 450$ in Dayton
Ohio this winter. I found it by asking a local cabinet maker about
older, american made lathes. It runs but is missing some parts and the
way its running concerns me a little. It isn't as quiet as I would
think it is capable of...anyone out there replace the bearings on one
of these? Also, the drive center may be seized in the #2 MT spindle.
Could pounding it out with a long peice of drill rod inflict any
damage ? Or do you remove the drive center another way. There are
other problems such as some missing parts but overall this lathe is
intact. The parts that it needs are mostly the things you purchase
separately anyway such as faceplates, live center set, outboard
faceplate. I would like to install the original style on-off switch,
there is none right now. Can any woodturners out there give me some
advice on how to proceed with the restoration?

Hey Byron, The one I'm getting is a gap bed as well. Mine is a pretty
early version. I believe you could get a no-gap bed or a gap bed. The
xerox copied manual that Powermatic sent me clearly shows an
electrical control or power switch that mounts either on the headstock
or the bed. I might try to equip mine with a magnetic starter switch
to avoid accidental startups or possibly one that includes a reversing
switch for the motor. The color on this #90 is a light green, perhaps
you have a later version. I wasn't aware that the variable speed lever
could be used as an on-off switch.