Is there a given angle for spindle and bowl gouges ?
I have some cheap tools that require frequent sharpening and I can't get
the angle back on my two gouges.
I've sharpened drill bits for years but I just can't get these gouges to
cut like they used to.Any help would be approached.
Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/WOODWORKING

Jerry
A bowl gouge should be sharpened to about 45* and a spindle gouge to 60*. I
suggest you use a jig. It makes things go a lot smoother, at least at first.
http://aroundthewoods.com/sharpening01.html

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Jerry - OHIO" wrote in message
...
Is there a given angle for spindle and bowl gouges ?
I have some cheap tools that require frequent sharpening and I can't get
the angle back on my two gouges.
I've sharpened drill bits for years but I just can't get these gouges to
cut like they used to.Any help would be approached.
Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/WOODWORKING

Thanks Darrel for the help.This is the best place to get quick help when
we get in trouble.
Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/WOODWORKING

Hello Jerry,

Here are a few of my thoughts on bevel angles for spindle and bowl gouges...

Spindle Gouges

Used primarily for between centres turning, spindle gouges are a great tool
for detail work like turning beads and coves. A good starting point is a
35-degree bevel. Some turners vary the bevel angle between 30 and 35
degrees, to suit particular situations. These are typically ground with a
standard fingernail shape, although some turners (myself included) prefer
Irish grinds on spindle gouges. The swept back wings offer excellent
visibility when turning fine details and the shape allows you to get into
very tight areas, without touching adjacent design elements.

Production spindle gouges are available from some manufacturers that offer
increased metal under the flute, which allows you to work a greater distance
off the tool rest without vibrations. These production spindle tools are
usually ground with double bevels, to shorten the long bevel that would
otherwise be present on the tool.

Spindle gouges can also be used to a limited extent to hollow very small
projects like goblets and boxes as well. When used in this way, the gouge is
typically ground with a 45-degree front bevel angle. Since spindle gouges
lack a lot of mass under the flute, they are only suitable for very small,
shallow hollowing projects. Spindle gouges should never be used to hollow
the inside of a bowl, since they lack the mass and rigidity necessary to
resist the forces generated when the tool hangs off the tool rest to hollow
the bowl.

Spindle gouges are typically available in various sizes including, 1/4',
3/8", and 1Ž2" in round bar stock and 1/2" and 5/8" in forged stock. Micro
versions are also available in 1/4" and 3/16" sizes, or even smaller from
some manufacturers. I really like the small micro turning tools and I use
them frequently in my studio for fine detail work. Remember, if using micro
tools, keep your tool rest support close to the work piece, to minimize tool
overhang and chatter.

Bowl Gouges

Used primarily for faceplate work and turning bowls, bowl gouges are one of
the most ubiquitous tools in a modern woodturner's studio. Useful for not
only bowl work, but bowl gouges can also be used for many spindle-turning
tasks. There are two basic ways to grind a bowl gouge, flat across and
fingernail shape. The fingernail shape has two popular styles, traditional
and Irish.

Which style is best for you depends on many things, including your personal
preferences, your skill level and the horsepower of your lathe. I use the
Irish style of grind the most in my studio, but I will on rare occasions,
use a flat ground bowl gouge. For example, the interior belly cut on a
Hawaiian Calabash style bowl. The decision on which grind or profile is best
for a particular project, is determined by the specific project's shape,
subject timber, depth, soundness of wood and skill of the turner to name a
few.

Bowl gouges are available in numerous sizes including 1/4", 3/8", 1/2",
5/8", 3/4" and 1" to name a few. The larger sizes are great for roughing out
and doing the bulk of the initial shaping work. The mid size gouges are
great for refining the design and the smaller gouges work well for adding
fine detail. The 1/4" bowl gouge is a particularly elegant tool that is
capable of producing amazingly smooth surfaces.

I've often been asked what bevel angle you should use for turning bowls.
This really depends on the size, shape and depth of the bowl you want to
turn. In reality, you need several different bowl gouges, each with a
different front bevel angle to turn various sizes and shapes of bowls.
Another factor that determines what bevel angle you need is how you turn
your bowls.

I prefer to make a single sweep on the interior, from the rim to the bottom
(side grain bowls). This requires a bevel angle that will allow me to
complete my entire sweep before the shaft of the gouge touches the bowl rim.
Once the shaft of the gouge touches the rim, you lose your bevel contact and
the cut is interrupted.

If you prefer to hollow the interior of your bowl in several steps, then you
have more options, since you can use two different gouges, each with a
different front bevel angle to complete the interior sweep. The important
thing here is that you want your bevel to maintain contact throughout the
entire cut on the bowl. Having said that, you still need some kind of a
starting point if you're just getting into bowls.

Half Round Bowls: These are a popular style of bowl with many woodturners.
The wall of a half round bowl will restrict the gouge movement to some
extent, but as long as the depth does not exceed the radius of the bowl, a
45-degree front bevel will usually allow you to maintain contact throughout
the cut.

Shallow Open Style Bowls: I really enjoy turning shallow open bowls either
with, or without an Ogee style of rim. Because the bowl is short and very
open, the wall of the bowl usually does not restrict the gouge movement and
you can use various front bevel angles to complete the interior. A good
starting bevel angle for these types of bowls is 30 degrees, but many other
angles could also be used as well.

Deep and Tall Bowls: The walls on these types of bowls are quite tall, with
a small bottom and this greatly restricts the movement of the gouge inside
the bowl when hollowing. Since this style of bowl has a depth that is
greater than the radius, you have to use front bevel around 60, or even 65
degrees to maintain full contact throughout the cut.

Semi-Closed Bowls: These types of bowls feature a rim opening that curves
slightly inward, making the opening in the bowl smaller than the largest
diameter of the bowl wall. This type of bowl typically has a depth that
exceeds the radius, with a bowl wall that will restrict your gouge movement.
A front bevel angle of 55 degrees or so, should allow for full bevel contact
when making your interior cuts.

Recommendations: Ok, that's a lot to digest. If you're looking for a happy
medium and you only have a few gouges, what do you do? I would grind one at
40 degrees, one at 45 degrees and keep one ground at 50, or 55 degrees. That
will cover most of the styles of bowls you're likely to want to turn. If you
decide to turn a bowl where these front bevels won't allow full contact
throughout the cut, simply regrind one to a steeper or blunter angle to
accommodate your design. Another option would be to buy another gouge and
grind it to either 50 degrees, or 60 degrees if you like turning tall and
deep bowls.

Good luck to you and best wishes in all of your woodturning endeavours!
--
Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

Steven D. Russell
Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio, The Woodlands, Texas
Machinery, Tool and Product Testing for the Woodworking and Woodturning
Industries

Website: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com
Free Monthly Woodturning Newsletter * Your email is kept confidential
Sign up at: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/lathe-talk.html

On 4/10/08 2:15 PM, in article
, "Jerry - OHIO"
wrote:

Is there a given angle for spindle and bowl gouges ?
I have some cheap tools that require frequent sharpening and I can't get
the angle back on my two gouges.
I've sharpened drill bits for years but I just can't get these gouges to
cut like they used to.Any help would be approached.
Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/WOODWORKING

On Thursday, April 10, 2008 at 2:15:12 PM UTC-5, Jerry - OHIO wrote:
Is there a given angle for spindle and bowl gouges ?
I have some cheap tools that require frequent sharpening and I can't get
the angle back on my two gouges.
I've sharpened drill bits for years but I just can't get these gouges to
cut like they used to.Any help would be approached.
Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/WOODWORKING

Thanks for the information, especially on angles. Do you happen to know where I could get a book, video or class in Houston, Texas on sharpening the gouge?

On Tue, 22 Nov 2016 12:03:16 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, April 10, 2008 at 2:15:12 PM UTC-5, Jerry - OHIO wrote:
Is there a given angle for spindle and bowl gouges ?
I have some cheap tools that require frequent sharpening and I can't get
the angle back on my two gouges.
I've sharpened drill bits for years but I just can't get these gouges to
cut like they used to.Any help would be approached.
Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/WOODWORKING

Thanks for the information, especially on angles. Do you happen to know where I could get a book, video or class in Houston, Texas on sharpening the gouge?

There are several on YouTube... I use Brandan Stemp's channel
often....

On Thursday, April 10, 2008 at 2:15:12 PM UTC-5, Jerry - OHIO wrote:
Is there a given angle for spindle and bowl gouges ?
I have some cheap tools that require frequent sharpening and I can't get
the angle back on my two gouges.
I've sharpened drill bits for years but I just can't get these gouges to
cut like they used to.Any help would be approached.
Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/WOODWORKING

One question, I have seen folks talking about angles on gouges for a long time, so how are they measured? If I present the gouge to the grinder, HOW do I know I have "what" angle? Is it setting the tool rest on the grinder to where a bevel gauge, set at the desired level comes in contact with the wheel, when the rest is set parallel to the table?

Deb

Hi, noticed you said cheap tools. You have to watch some of the Chinesey ones as they only use poor steel (hence the regular sharpening) and they sometimes only case harden the sharpened end so they never sharpen well after the 1st time