Leo, Could you please share some details about your drying shed? I would
just like to know if it is a basic shed, or does it have a small heater, or
dehumidifier etc. I have an unheated part of my shop that may work as a
drying shed. Thanks for any help you can provide. P.S. I chickened out on
using SWMBO new dryer to dry wood. If something went wrong it would not be
worth the fight.
Thanks Lyndell

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 15:00:38 -0500, "Lyndell Thompson"
wrote:

Leo, Could you please share some details about your drying shed? I would
just like to know if it is a basic shed, or does it have a small heater, or
dehumidifier etc. I have an unheated part of my shop that may work as a
drying shed. Thanks for any help you can provide. P.S. I chickened out on
using SWMBO new dryer to dry wood. If something went wrong it would not be
worth the fight.
Thanks Lyndell

Not chickened out, Lendell... you just exercised common sense..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I'll cut thru all the bull Mac and tell the truth........I heeded your
advice.
Thanks Lyndell

"mac davis" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 15:00:38 -0500, "Lyndell Thompson"

wrote:

Leo, Could you please share some details about your drying shed? I would
just like to know if it is a basic shed, or does it have a small heater,
or
dehumidifier etc. I have an unheated part of my shop that may work as a
drying shed. Thanks for any help you can provide. P.S. I chickened out on
using SWMBO new dryer to dry wood. If something went wrong it would not be
worth the fight.
Thanks Lyndell

Not chickened out, Lendell... you just exercised common sense..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 00:09:07 -0500, "Lyndell Thompson"
wrote:

I'll cut thru all the bull Mac and tell the truth........I heeded your
advice.
Thanks Lyndell


Oh ****!
Most people really screw up their lives when they try that... lol

BTW, 3 people have tried to buy that plywood mini-pen in the Christmas rush.. I
still won't sell it..


"mac davis" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 15:00:38 -0500, "Lyndell Thompson"

wrote:

Leo, Could you please share some details about your drying shed? I would
just like to know if it is a basic shed, or does it have a small heater,
or
dehumidifier etc. I have an unheated part of my shop that may work as a
drying shed. Thanks for any help you can provide. P.S. I chickened out on
using SWMBO new dryer to dry wood. If something went wrong it would not be
worth the fight.
Thanks Lyndell

Not chickened out, Lendell... you just exercised common sense..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Here you go Lyndell

About my drying cabin

My drying cabin works on one principle, trying to prevent the high
difference of moisture levels within the wood, which is the reason for
the splitting of the wood as it dries.

So I build a nearly airtight cabin, totally from wood, yes I used
screws and nails, and insulate it totally, doors are 4" thick and
insulated, 2 small windows also double paned with lexan, if you try to
slam the door it will bounce back on the air, as the air cannot get
out that fast.

The inside and outside is unpainted, inside floor, walls and ceiling
seams are caulked, these wooden surfaces do work as a buffer, as does
the mass of the turned wood in there, by slowly absorbing and
releasing moisture, leveling out the humidity spikes, as outside or
inside the temperature and humidity levels change, the inside ones are
slowed down by all this, the large roof overhang keeps the sun off the
walls and the large trees shade it most of the day.

The total and heavy insulated walls, floor and ceiling (floor is made
from 2x6" at 12" centers, with 1/2" tong and grove plywood sheeting
inside and painted 1/4 plywood sheets on the bottom side (underneath))
do help to slow down the temperature swings and thus extend the time
it takes for the humidity level to change.

Does it shorten the drying time, probably a little, but it is not a
heated kiln and not the reason I build the cabin.

Does it help prevent the splitting of the rough turned bowls, YES, do
I have bowls split while in there ? YES, my rate of bowls that do
split is less than 3%, more like 1% to 2%, and most of those had some
splitting already or very good reason to do so.

One 150 watt infra red light bulb will keep the cabin above freezing
here in the winter time, but very seldom have the lamp on, only if I
feel it's to damp in there, I don't want it to be dry though.

I have used this cabin for about 15 years now and I have to keep up
finish turning with roughing out, I'm out of room to add any more
rough-outs, I have some 40 or 50 dried pieces sitting in the house and
shop waiting to get finished.

I do use paper bags and newspaper wrapping on some of my rough-outs
for the first days/weeks and check up on them regularly, and use CA
glue if anything looks likely to split or check right away, if there
is any indication it might split/check.

So if you want to dry your turnings faster, go for the freezer/fridge
kiln and learn to use it and hope you don't have to many pieces split
on you, I just didn't want more work and junk around, but an way to
prevent the rough-outs from splitting on me, and it has worked well
for me, now I have rough turned bowls that are several years in there,
there's no rush, I pull out what I need or whatever I feel like
turning.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


On Dec 16, 3:00 pm, "Lyndell Thompson" wrote:
Leo, Could you please share some details about your drying shed? I would
just like to know if it is a basic shed, or does it have a small heater, or
dehumidifier etc. I have an unheated part of my shop that may work as a
drying shed. Thanks for any help you can provide. P.S. I chickened out on
using SWMBO new dryer to dry wood. If something went wrong it would not be
worth the fight.
Thanks Lyndell

Thanks Leo, I have filed it with all else that I need to do . It will get
built ASAP.
Lyndell


wrote in message
...
Here you go Lyndell

About my drying cabin

My drying cabin works on one principle, trying to prevent the high
difference of moisture levels within the wood, which is the reason for
the splitting of the wood as it dries.

So I build a nearly airtight cabin, totally from wood, yes I used
screws and nails, and insulate it totally, doors are 4" thick and
insulated, 2 small windows also double paned with lexan, if you try to
slam the door it will bounce back on the air, as the air cannot get
out that fast.

The inside and outside is unpainted, inside floor, walls and ceiling
seams are caulked, these wooden surfaces do work as a buffer, as does
the mass of the turned wood in there, by slowly absorbing and
releasing moisture, leveling out the humidity spikes, as outside or
inside the temperature and humidity levels change, the inside ones are
slowed down by all this, the large roof overhang keeps the sun off the
walls and the large trees shade it most of the day.

The total and heavy insulated walls, floor and ceiling (floor is made
from 2x6" at 12" centers, with 1/2" tong and grove plywood sheeting
inside and painted 1/4 plywood sheets on the bottom side (underneath))
do help to slow down the temperature swings and thus extend the time
it takes for the humidity level to change.

Does it shorten the drying time, probably a little, but it is not a
heated kiln and not the reason I build the cabin.

Does it help prevent the splitting of the rough turned bowls, YES, do
I have bowls split while in there ? YES, my rate of bowls that do
split is less than 3%, more like 1% to 2%, and most of those had some
splitting already or very good reason to do so.

One 150 watt infra red light bulb will keep the cabin above freezing
here in the winter time, but very seldom have the lamp on, only if I
feel it's to damp in there, I don't want it to be dry though.

I have used this cabin for about 15 years now and I have to keep up
finish turning with roughing out, I'm out of room to add any more
rough-outs, I have some 40 or 50 dried pieces sitting in the house and
shop waiting to get finished.

I do use paper bags and newspaper wrapping on some of my rough-outs
for the first days/weeks and check up on them regularly, and use CA
glue if anything looks likely to split or check right away, if there
is any indication it might split/check.

So if you want to dry your turnings faster, go for the freezer/fridge
kiln and learn to use it and hope you don't have to many pieces split
on you, I just didn't want more work and junk around, but an way to
prevent the rough-outs from splitting on me, and it has worked well
for me, now I have rough turned bowls that are several years in there,
there's no rush, I pull out what I need or whatever I feel like
turning.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


On Dec 16, 3:00 pm, "Lyndell Thompson" wrote:
Leo, Could you please share some details about your drying shed? I would
just like to know if it is a basic shed, or does it have a small heater,
or
dehumidifier etc. I have an unheated part of my shop that may work as a
drying shed. Thanks for any help you can provide. P.S. I chickened out on
using SWMBO new dryer to dry wood. If something went wrong it would not
be
worth the fight.
Thanks Lyndell

I'll cut thru all the bull Mac and tell the truth........I heeded your
advice.
Thanks Lyndell


Oh ****!
Most people really screw up their lives when they try that... lol

BTW, 3 people have tried to buy that plywood mini-pen in the Christmas
rush.. I
still won't sell it..

Mac, tell them your baltic birch supplier is in Indiana and unless they
want to drive up here and pick it up for you .......they will have to wait
in line. Take a ticket and take a seat! LOL
Lyndell
P.S.If you need a little chunk of it contact me off list and I will see what
I can do. I am not sure how to get it across the border?

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 23:55:05 -0500, "Lyndell Thompson"
wrote:



I'll cut thru all the bull Mac and tell the truth........I heeded your
advice.
Thanks Lyndell


Oh ****!
Most people really screw up their lives when they try that... lol

BTW, 3 people have tried to buy that plywood mini-pen in the Christmas
rush.. I
still won't sell it..

Mac, tell them your baltic birch supplier is in Indiana and unless they
want to drive up here and pick it up for you .......they will have to wait
in line. Take a ticket and take a seat! LOL
Lyndell
P.S.If you need a little chunk of it contact me off list and I will see what
I can do. I am not sure how to get it across the border?


That might be fun, Lyndell... see if my skew technique is getting any
better..lol
Is your email address here real?

I order pen and bowl blanks by US mail all the time.. they open them at the
border and never seem to have a problem with them..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Yes Mac, my address here is for real. I have all manner of spam filters and
other garbage to filter out the bad boys. :-)
Lyndell


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 23:55:05 -0500, "Lyndell Thompson"

wrote:



I'll cut thru all the bull Mac and tell the truth........I heeded your
advice.
Thanks Lyndell


Oh ****!
Most people really screw up their lives when they try that... lol

BTW, 3 people have tried to buy that plywood mini-pen in the Christmas
rush.. I
still won't sell it..

Mac, tell them your baltic birch supplier is in Indiana and unless they
want to drive up here and pick it up for you .......they will have to wait
in line. Take a ticket and take a seat! LOL
Lyndell
P.S.If you need a little chunk of it contact me off list and I will see
what
I can do. I am not sure how to get it across the border?


That might be fun, Lyndell... see if my skew technique is getting any
better..lol
Is your email address here real?

I order pen and bowl blanks by US mail all the time.. they open them at
the
border and never seem to have a problem with them..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing