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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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what kind of glue
I'm getting up the nerve to turn some Eucalyptus burl cap.
I want to make into a natural edged bowl (hopefully nested set). I've got a fair amount of experience using coring chisels on local stuff like cottonwood and maple. I want to start out by coring the bowl blank out of the cap and then turning the remaining cap into a platter preserving as much as the outer edge of the cap as possible. For my project I don't want to waste any by mounting it to a face plate leaving screw holes. So I need to use a waste block glued to the flat bottom of the cap. The question is what glue? Should I use a large thick piece of say maple and mount it to a face plate or a smaller piece that can be held in a chuck? So far I've had a couple suggestions of using CA glue (even though the burl is several years old it is still wet) and using titebond. One suggestion was use titebond with paper between the waste block and the burl. The paper would permit me to separate the waste block from the burl more easily but I worry about the stresses during coring. |
#2
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what kind of glue
On Aug 8, 8:35?am, william kossack wrote:
For my project I don't want to waste any by mounting it to a face plate leaving screw holes. So I need to use a waste block glued to the flat bottom of the cap. The question is what glue? Should I use a large thick piece of say maple and mount it to a face plate or a smaller piece that can be held in a chuck? So far I've had a couple suggestions of using CA glue (even though the burl is several years old it is still wet) and using titebond. One suggestion was use titebond with paper between the waste block and the burl. The paper would permit me to separate the waste block from the burl more easily but I worry about the stresses during coring. I would not trust a "paper joint" for this application. IMHO, the safest thing would be a solid glue block and a faceplate. I don't know how big your burl cap is, but it sounds like it's fairly large. You might want to go with something like two ton epoxy for adhering the glue block. Kip Powers Rogers, AR |
#3
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what kind of glue
I have some slow cure epoxy but what is two ton?
Kip wrote: On Aug 8, 8:35?am, william kossack wrote: For my project I don't want to waste any by mounting it to a face plate leaving screw holes. So I need to use a waste block glued to the flat bottom of the cap. The question is what glue? Should I use a large thick piece of say maple and mount it to a face plate or a smaller piece that can be held in a chuck? So far I've had a couple suggestions of using CA glue (even though the burl is several years old it is still wet) and using titebond. One suggestion was use titebond with paper between the waste block and the burl. The paper would permit me to separate the waste block from the burl more easily but I worry about the stresses during coring. I would not trust a "paper joint" for this application. IMHO, the safest thing would be a solid glue block and a faceplate. I don't know how big your burl cap is, but it sounds like it's fairly large. You might want to go with something like two ton epoxy for adhering the glue block. Kip Powers Rogers, AR |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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what kind of glue
The slow cure epoxy is good for what you want to do. Two ton just refers to
the approximate developed strength when cured. Its just a manufactures name to separate it from 5 minute epoxy. Slower curing epoxies develop much greater strength than fast cure epoxies. A good example of the differences is the ceiling failure last summer in the tunnel in Boston. The installation crews used the fast set epoxy, meant for wall tiles, on some of the anchors holding up the ceiling. Over time this fast set epoxy experienced creep and failed. The slower cure high strength epoxy set anchors show no signs of failure. Tony Manella ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at") http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/ Lehigh Valley Woodturners www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com "william kossack" wrote in message . .. I have some slow cure epoxy but what is two ton? Kip wrote: On Aug 8, 8:35?am, william kossack wrote: For my project I don't want to waste any by mounting it to a face plate leaving screw holes. So I need to use a waste block glued to the flat bottom of the cap. The question is what glue? Should I use a large thick piece of say maple and mount it to a face plate or a smaller piece that can be held in a chuck? So far I've had a couple suggestions of using CA glue (even though the burl is several years old it is still wet) and using titebond. One suggestion was use titebond with paper between the waste block and the burl. The paper would permit me to separate the waste block from the burl more easily but I worry about the stresses during coring. I would not trust a "paper joint" for this application. IMHO, the safest thing would be a solid glue block and a faceplate. I don't know how big your burl cap is, but it sounds like it's fairly large. You might want to go with something like two ton epoxy for adhering the glue block. Kip Powers Rogers, AR |
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