The slow cure epoxy is good for what you want to do. Two ton just refers to
the approximate developed strength when cured. Its just a manufactures name
to separate it from 5 minute epoxy. Slower curing epoxies develop much
greater strength than fast cure epoxies.

A good example of the differences is the ceiling failure last summer in the
tunnel in Boston. The installation crews used the fast set epoxy, meant for
wall tiles, on some of the anchors holding up the ceiling. Over time this
fast set epoxy experienced creep and failed. The slower cure high strength
epoxy set anchors show no signs of failure.

Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners
www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com

"william kossack" wrote in message
. ..
I have some slow cure epoxy but what is two ton?

Kip wrote:
On Aug 8, 8:35?am, william kossack wrote:
For my project I don't want to waste any by mounting it to a face plate
leaving screw holes. So I need to use a waste block glued to the flat
bottom of the cap. The question is what glue? Should I use a large
thick piece of say maple and mount it to a face plate or a smaller piece
that can be held in a chuck?

So far I've had a couple suggestions of using CA glue (even though the
burl is several years old it is still wet) and using titebond. One
suggestion was use titebond with paper between the waste block and the
burl. The paper would permit me to separate the waste block from the
burl more easily but I worry about the stresses during coring.

I would not trust a "paper joint" for this application. IMHO, the
safest thing would be a solid glue block and a faceplate. I don't
know how big your burl cap is, but it sounds like it's fairly large.
You might want to go with something like two ton epoxy for adhering
the glue block.

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR