This probably never happens to most of you, but occasionally
while finish turning the inside of a bowl, I hit a snag--not
a real catch, but enough to disturb the bowl on the chuck.
It is hard for me to get it set back just right. I reseat
the bowl as before, but there will be a wobble. I have tried
holding a pencil loosely to the edge to show where to tilt
back, and used the tool rest to try to do the same, but
often this is unsatisfactory as well.

Yesterday I dreamed up a jig to reset the bowl. I made a
slide out of a 1 foot piece of 1 x 6, glued and screwed a 7
inch length of 2 x 4 across one end, flush and square with
the end of the slide. To this end surface I glued and
screwed a 15 inch square of MDF. For the guide I sawed a 1
foot piece of 3/4 inch pine so that it fitted snugly between
the ways without wobble, but loose enough to slide.

After putting glue on the top of the guide, I ran a
countersunk screw down through the slide into the guide just
behind the crosspiece. Sliding the jig up to a nearly
finished and true running bowl, I set it so that the MDF
touched the bowl front and back, then ran another screw
through the slide down into the guide while it was still
sitting square on the lathe.

Then I made an angle brace from high up on the MDF to the
back of the slide, setting the MDF so that it touched the
bowl top and bottom. Now I can re-register a bowl very
quickly if it gets disturbed.

Clear as mud?
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The ultimate reason is 'because.'

On Sat, 12 May 2007 20:58:41 -0400, Gerald Ross
wrote:You said it like mud
lost me on the third line hahah
this getting old ..

This probably never happens to most of you, but occasionally
while finish turning the inside of a bowl, I hit a snag--not
a real catch, but enough to disturb the bowl on the chuck.
It is hard for me to get it set back just right. I reseat
the bowl as before, but there will be a wobble. I have tried
holding a pencil loosely to the edge to show where to tilt
back, and used the tool rest to try to do the same, but
often this is unsatisfactory as well.

Yesterday I dreamed up a jig to reset the bowl. I made a
slide out of a 1 foot piece of 1 x 6, glued and screwed a 7
inch length of 2 x 4 across one end, flush and square with
the end of the slide. To this end surface I glued and
screwed a 15 inch square of MDF. For the guide I sawed a 1
foot piece of 3/4 inch pine so that it fitted snugly between
the ways without wobble, but loose enough to slide.

After putting glue on the top of the guide, I ran a
countersunk screw down through the slide into the guide just
behind the crosspiece. Sliding the jig up to a nearly
finished and true running bowl, I set it so that the MDF
touched the bowl front and back, then ran another screw
through the slide down into the guide while it was still
sitting square on the lathe.

Then I made an angle brace from high up on the MDF to the
back of the slide, setting the MDF so that it touched the
bowl top and bottom. Now I can re-register a bowl very
quickly if it gets disturbed.

Clear as mud?

On Sat, 12 May 2007 20:58:41 -0400, Gerald Ross
wrote:

This probably never happens to most of you, but occasionally
while finish turning the inside of a bowl, I hit a snag--not
a real catch, but enough to disturb the bowl on the chuck.
It is hard for me to get it set back just right. I reseat
the bowl as before, but there will be a wobble. I have tried
holding a pencil loosely to the edge to show where to tilt
back, and used the tool rest to try to do the same, but
often this is unsatisfactory as well.

Yesterday I dreamed up a jig to reset the bowl. I made a
slide out of a 1 foot piece of 1 x 6, glued and screwed a 7
inch length of 2 x 4 across one end, flush and square with
the end of the slide. To this end surface I glued and
screwed a 15 inch square of MDF. For the guide I sawed a 1
foot piece of 3/4 inch pine so that it fitted snugly between
the ways without wobble, but loose enough to slide.

After putting glue on the top of the guide, I ran a
countersunk screw down through the slide into the guide just
behind the crosspiece. Sliding the jig up to a nearly
finished and true running bowl, I set it so that the MDF
touched the bowl front and back, then ran another screw
through the slide down into the guide while it was still
sitting square on the lathe.

Then I made an angle brace from high up on the MDF to the
back of the slide, setting the MDF so that it touched the
bowl top and bottom. Now I can re-register a bowl very
quickly if it gets disturbed.

Clear as mud?

Slighty more than mud, but almost as thick! Took a re-read or two,
but I think I have the gist of it.

How is it working for you? *Of course* I've never had this happen to
*me*, but if it had, I might be tempted to always finish turn the
inside first, and leave enough material on the outside to correct for
any re-chucking that might happen.

Clear as mud?
--
A picture says more than a thousand words...;-)
I hope you can give us a picture, your message sure made me curious!

Gerard
http://www.woodarts4u.com/

Hi Gerald

I think you could use a setup like that, but I don't think you will
get your blank real true this way, or to how true I would like my
turning to run, the tolerance you need in order to move your jig and
the flex in it will potentially have the work piece still off some and
that doubles of course wen it turns around, you could get close pretty
quick and than final adjust.
My standard adjustment procedure when I have turned a blank that has
been turned on the outside, and than flip over to do the inside
turned, is like this.
I will try to hold the piece as good as possible on my chuck while I
tighten up the chuck just enough to hold it.
I will than hand turn the spindle while I watch for any wobble,
sometimes I'm lucky and than tighten the chuck up farther so I can
start turning, but usually I will I have to adjust the wood, I will
set my toolrest very close to the side of the wood, and carefully turn
the piece around, noting what area is close and how much of a
difference there is between the one side and the other, then I will
turn the lathe so the closest side is next to the toolrest, I then use
a mallet and hit the face of the wood on the other side, I hit it
towards the chuck, and then turn the lathe and check again the
trueness, I might have to repeat this a couple of times, but I can get
the wood to turn true within a few thousands of an inch, tighten the
chuck and start turning.
If for some reason the piece does get moved off true, I will basically
do the above procedure to get back to true, or as close as possible,
for by this time the work piece is usually not round anymore.
And at that time I might have to use the mallets handle to knock
against the inside, to straighten out the piece.
This might seem like a lot of work, but it is really quick and
straight forward, anyway, it seems like that to me.


On May 12, 8:58 pm, Gerald Ross wrote:
This probably never happens to most of you, but occasionally
while finish turning the inside of a bowl, I hit a snag--not
a real catch, but enough to disturb the bowl on the chuck.
It is hard for me to get it set back just right. I reseat
the bowl as before, but there will be a wobble. I have tried
holding a pencil loosely to the edge to show where to tilt
back, and used the tool rest to try to do the same, but
often this is unsatisfactory as well.

Yesterday I dreamed up a jig to reset the bowl. I made a
slide out of a 1 foot piece of 1 x 6, glued and screwed a 7
inch length of 2 x 4 across one end, flush and square with
the end of the slide. To this end surface I glued and
screwed a 15 inch square of MDF. For the guide I sawed a 1
foot piece of 3/4 inch pine so that it fitted snugly between
the ways without wobble, but loose enough to slide.

After putting glue on the top of the guide, I ran a
countersunk screw down through the slide into the guide just
behind the crosspiece. Sliding the jig up to a nearly
finished and true running bowl, I set it so that the MDF
touched the bowl front and back, then ran another screw
through the slide down into the guide while it was still
sitting square on the lathe.

Then I made an angle brace from high up on the MDF to the
back of the slide, setting the MDF so that it touched the
bowl top and bottom. Now I can re-register a bowl very
quickly if it gets disturbed.

Clear as mud?
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The ultimate reason is 'because.'

Would it not be easier to just not use a chuck and avoid the problem in the
first place?
---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Gerald

I think you could use a setup like that, but I don't think you will
get your blank real true this way, or to how true I would like my
turning to run, the tolerance you need in order to move your jig and
the flex in it will potentially have the work piece still off some and
that doubles of course wen it turns around, you could get close pretty
quick and than final adjust.
My standard adjustment procedure when I have turned a blank that has
been turned on the outside, and than flip over to do the inside
turned, is like this.
I will try to hold the piece as good as possible on my chuck while I
tighten up the chuck just enough to hold it.
I will than hand turn the spindle while I watch for any wobble,
sometimes I'm lucky and than tighten the chuck up farther so I can
start turning, but usually I will I have to adjust the wood, I will
set my toolrest very close to the side of the wood, and carefully turn
the piece around, noting what area is close and how much of a
difference there is between the one side and the other, then I will
turn the lathe so the closest side is next to the toolrest, I then use
a mallet and hit the face of the wood on the other side, I hit it
towards the chuck, and then turn the lathe and check again the
trueness, I might have to repeat this a couple of times, but I can get
the wood to turn true within a few thousands of an inch, tighten the
chuck and start turning.
If for some reason the piece does get moved off true, I will basically
do the above procedure to get back to true, or as close as possible,
for by this time the work piece is usually not round anymore.
And at that time I might have to use the mallets handle to knock
against the inside, to straighten out the piece.
This might seem like a lot of work, but it is really quick and
straight forward, anyway, it seems like that to me.


On May 12, 8:58 pm, Gerald Ross wrote:
This probably never happens to most of you, but occasionally
while finish turning the inside of a bowl, I hit a snag--not
a real catch, but enough to disturb the bowl on the chuck.
It is hard for me to get it set back just right. I reseat
the bowl as before, but there will be a wobble. I have tried
holding a pencil loosely to the edge to show where to tilt
back, and used the tool rest to try to do the same, but
often this is unsatisfactory as well.

Yesterday I dreamed up a jig to reset the bowl. I made a
slide out of a 1 foot piece of 1 x 6, glued and screwed a 7
inch length of 2 x 4 across one end, flush and square with
the end of the slide. To this end surface I glued and
screwed a 15 inch square of MDF. For the guide I sawed a 1
foot piece of 3/4 inch pine so that it fitted snugly between
the ways without wobble, but loose enough to slide.

After putting glue on the top of the guide, I ran a
countersunk screw down through the slide into the guide just
behind the crosspiece. Sliding the jig up to a nearly
finished and true running bowl, I set it so that the MDF
touched the bowl front and back, then ran another screw
through the slide down into the guide while it was still
sitting square on the lathe.

Then I made an angle brace from high up on the MDF to the
back of the slide, setting the MDF so that it touched the
bowl top and bottom. Now I can re-register a bowl very
quickly if it gets disturbed.

Clear as mud?
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The ultimate reason is 'because.'

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
This probably never happens to most of you, but occasionally while finish
turning the inside of a bowl, I hit a snag--not a real catch, but enough
to disturb the bowl on the chuck. It is hard for me to get it set back
just right. I reseat the bowl as before, but there will be a wobble. I
have tried holding a pencil loosely to the edge to show where to tilt
back, and used the tool rest to try to do the same, but often this is
unsatisfactory as well.
SNIP

The work isn't usually circular, nor the rim perfectly perpendicular to the
axis of rotation after hollowing. The cross-grain bowl bulges a bit across
and above the center. I don't go back to re-true these things, because
they're only noticeable when turning, not static.

I use smooth dovetail holds, which find a best fit circular pretty easily,
and hold the piece securely against the nose of the jaws at the bottom of
the mortise. They're so easy to work with that I occasionally re-mount
pieces I'm not happy with for make-or-break retuning, or peel the finish off
with my gouge to get a sandable surface on pieces where I don't like it.

It's hold, not grip that I'm working with, and I have to be careful not to
allow sawdust inside the mortise when I reverse, but my pieces run true and
between centers until they're at their lightest. I then make sure the hold
is snug and true before I release the center support.

I use the tapered nose of the center into the pin chuck hole on every piece.
If you have one of those Morse taper mounts for a chuck, you can put it in
the tail and chuck up a tapered disk of appropriate size to help align your
piece while applying alignment pressure to the shoulder of the tenon or the
bottom of the mortise. I use similar to keep goblets running true on my
NOVA live center. Bolt it on to the tapered insert, and it helps keep
things stable while the stem is reduced.

Gerard wrote:

Clear as mud?
--
A picture says more than a thousand words...;-)
I hope you can give us a picture, your message sure made me curious!

Gerard
http://www.woodarts4u.com/

Pictures posted in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The ultimate reason is 'because.'

Hi Darrell

Yes there are other ways to mount a piece,.... but we were discussing
the problem that does occasional crop up when using a chuck,
especially with the smooth faced jaws that have less of a purchase on
the wood than ridged jaws as are standard used by ONEWAY chucks, not
the different ways to mound a blank, be it faceplate, between centers
or vacuum chuck.
For me. I use whatever I think will do the job, but turning outboard,
I use my Oneway Stronghold chuck most frequently, without the tail
stock to hamper my access to the work piece, and also being able to
use any tool, and in it's most advantageous way, having to very
infrequently remount a partially turned piece, does not deter me doing
it this way,

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum26.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


On May 13, 7:00 am, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:
Would it not be easier to just not use a chuck and avoid the problem in the
first place?
---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NShttp://aroundthewoods.comhttp://roundopinions.blogspot.com

wrote in message

oups.com...

Hi Gerald

I think you could use a setup like that, but I don't think you will
get your blank real true this way, or to how true I would like my
turning to run, the tolerance you need in order to move your jig and
the flex in it will potentially have the work piece still off some and
that doubles of course wen it turns around, you could get close pretty
quick and than final adjust.
My standard adjustment procedure when I have turned a blank that has
been turned on the outside, and than flip over to do the inside
turned, is like this.
I will try to hold the piece as good as possible on my chuck while I
tighten up the chuck just enough to hold it.
I will than hand turn the spindle while I watch for any wobble,
sometimes I'm lucky and than tighten the chuck up farther so I can
start turning, but usually I will I have to adjust the wood, I will
set my toolrest very close to the side of the wood, and carefully turn
the piece around, noting what area is close and how much of a
difference there is between the one side and the other, then I will
turn the lathe so the closest side is next to the toolrest, I then use
a mallet and hit the face of the wood on the other side, I hit it
towards the chuck, and then turn the lathe and check again the
trueness, I might have to repeat this a couple of times, but I can get
the wood to turn true within a few thousands of an inch, tighten the
chuck and start turning.
If for some reason the piece does get moved off true, I will basically
do the above procedure to get back to true, or as close as possible,
for by this time the work piece is usually not round anymore.
And at that time I might have to use the mallets handle to knock
against the inside, to straighten out the piece.
This might seem like a lot of work, but it is really quick and
straight forward, anyway, it seems like that to me.

On May 12, 8:58 pm, Gerald Ross wrote:
This probably never happens to most of you, but occasionally
while finish turning the inside of a bowl, I hit a snag--not
a real catch, but enough to disturb the bowl on the chuck.
It is hard for me to get it set back just right. I reseat
the bowl as before, but there will be a wobble. I have tried
holding a pencil loosely to the edge to show where to tilt
back, and used the tool rest to try to do the same, but
often this is unsatisfactory as well.

Yesterday I dreamed up a jig to reset the bowl. I made a
slide out of a 1 foot piece of 1 x 6, glued and screwed a 7
inch length of 2 x 4 across one end, flush and square with
the end of the slide. To this end surface I glued and
screwed a 15 inch square of MDF. For the guide I sawed a 1
foot piece of 3/4 inch pine so that it fitted snugly between
the ways without wobble, but loose enough to slide.

After putting glue on the top of the guide, I ran a
countersunk screw down through the slide into the guide just
behind the crosspiece. Sliding the jig up to a nearly
finished and true running bowl, I set it so that the MDF
touched the bowl front and back, then ran another screw
through the slide down into the guide while it was still
sitting square on the lathe.

Then I made an angle brace from high up on the MDF to the
back of the slide, setting the MDF so that it touched the
bowl top and bottom. Now I can re-register a bowl very
quickly if it gets disturbed.

Clear as mud?
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The ultimate reason is 'because.'

4e78
wrote: (clip) usually I will I have to adjust the
wood, I will set my toolrest very close to the side of the wood, and
carefully turn
the piece around, noting what area is close (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You have given me a perfect opportunity to describe again the system I
use--I think it is better for centering than a toolrest. I have a laser
pointer mounted on a 43
linkage. I aim the beam at the surface of the wood, and as I rotate the
bowl slowly, I watch the spot falling below it. When I get it to be a
constant semicircle, I think I am within a couple of thousandths. If I
can't get a constant semicircle, it is because the bowl is out of round, and
then I balance the big sides and the small sides.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Darrell

Yes there are other ways to mount a piece,.... but we were discussing
the problem that does occasional crop up when using a chuck,
especially with the smooth faced jaws that have less of a purchase on
the wood than ridged jaws as are standard used by ONEWAY chucks, not
the different ways to mound a blank, be it faceplate, between centers
or vacuum chuck.
For me. I use whatever I think will do the job, but turning outboard,
I use my Oneway Stronghold chuck most frequently, without the tail
stock to hamper my access to the work piece, and also being able to
use any tool, and in it's most advantageous way, having to very
infrequently remount a partially turned piece, does not deter me doing
it this way,

You live in a different world, Leo. Best average is a well-known principle
in the world outside your mind. Jointers, planes, anything tapered,
including dovetails....

If you know how to cut, the tail and even a poppet are no hindrance.
Thousands of years of turners know this.

Oh well, have a nice day.

"Leo Lichtman" wrote: (clip) I have a laser pointer mounted on a 43
linkage. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Delete "43." That's what happens when the cat runs across the keyboard.

Whatever untapered world Leo V. lives in, he sure knows how to cut both
wood and metal. He turns some beautiful work and does it over and over
again with many innovations. I for one am glad he shares his knowledge
and experience in his friendly manner without forcing it on us. Don't
know the Dutch word for thanks else I'd try to use it now.

As for 'ole 43' aka Leo L. He also knows what he's doing around a
turning shop and elsewhere and shares his expertise with us with style,
his laser sharp wit .....and aplomb. Thanks '43'.

Gerald, Thanks for posting your ideas. I'm working on figuring out your
ways and means, but in the meantime send some mud down our way.
Anything but this parched dust. Looks like rain up there today, but the
hell of it is we ain't up there.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"Arch" wrote: (clip)As for 'ole 43' aka Leo L. (clip)Thanks '43'.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Thanks, Arch--I'll try to "esplain" this to my cat, to whom my keyboard must
feel like a resilient doormat. One thing I WON'T do is stop her from going
where she wants to go.

Arch wrote:
Whatever untapered world Leo V. lives in, he sure knows how to cut both
wood and metal. He turns some beautiful work and does it over and over
again with many innovations. I for one am glad he shares his knowledge
and experience in his friendly manner without forcing it on us. Don't
know the Dutch word for thanks else I'd try to use it now.

As for 'ole 43' aka Leo L. He also knows what he's doing around a
turning shop and elsewhere and shares his expertise with us with style,
his laser sharp wit .....and aplomb. Thanks '43'.

Gerald, Thanks for posting your ideas. I'm working on figuring out your
ways and means, but in the meantime send some mud down our way.
Anything but this parched dust. Looks like rain up there today, but the
hell of it is we ain't up there.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter
Thanks Arch. Can you get the
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking newsgroup? I have posted
pictures there.

No rain here. We got a little thunder a couple of weeks ago,
but no showers.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The problem with troubleshooting is
that real trouble shoots back.

Hi other Leo

You say again, I don't remember it, so thank you.

If I had a laser pointer (I DO) and had a magnetic base and linkage,
(I do have the magnetic base) then I probably would try (and I might
do this one day) to use the laser pointer, without the "43" ;-))), I'm
sure that would work to get things centered just fine, however I do
have the toolrest already there, and do not have to get any other
piece of equipment out and setup, so I think that given the way you
are doing it, and I can see that, that, could work just fine, I still
would go for a (to me) time tested way of doing it, Leo you know what
they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat, and KISS is my way
if at all possible.
Thanks for giving me/us an other way of doing something, It does get
crowded up-there with ideas, ( just like in my shop, I do know I have
something like that but I just can't remember where I put it ) and
time and again they do come in handy, if not for me, than to help out
someone else, Thank you.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


On May 13, 12:26 pm, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
wrote: (clip) usually I will I have to adjust the

wood, I will set my toolrest very close to the side of the wood, and
carefully turn the piece around, noting what area is close (clip)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You have given me a perfect opportunity to describe again the system I
use--I think it is better for centering than a toolrest. I have a laser
pointer mounted on a 43
linkage. I aim the beam at the surface of the wood, and as I rotate the
bowl slowly, I watch the spot falling below it. When I get it to be a
constant semicircle, I think I am within a couple of thousandths. If I
can't get a constant semicircle, it is because the bowl is out of round, and
then I balance the big sides and the small sides.

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Whatever untapered world Leo V. lives in, he sure knows how to cut both
wood and metal. He turns some beautiful work and does it over and over
again with many innovations. I for one am glad he shares his knowledge
and experience in his friendly manner without forcing it on us. Don't
know the Dutch word for thanks else I'd try to use it now.

Consider the difference between using a strap wrench and a pipe wrench on
your oil filter. Not a difficult analogy.

Hi George, Remember my episode with taking my belt off and using it as
a strap wrench while drilling a tall lamp? My shorts fell off and the
studio (garage) door was open to the busy street.

Strap and pipe wrench analogies aside, I once loosened oil filters with
a faceted plastic filter wrench. I no longer change oil. Can't bend over
and if I could, I couldn't find the fitting on my 'newer' PU.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch
When I could not fnd my carburetor anymore, I gave up trying to fix cars.
The mechanic next door asks why people who break down open the hood of the
car? Unless the radiator is boilng over there is nothing to fix without the
computer read out. Why dealers get rich and drivers go grey.
---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Hi George, Remember my episode with taking my belt off and using it as
a strap wrench while drilling a tall lamp? My shorts fell off and the
studio (garage) door was open to the busy street.

Strap and pipe wrench analogies aside, I once loosened oil filters with
a faceted plastic filter wrench. I no longer change oil. Can't bend over
and if I could, I couldn't find the fitting on my 'newer' PU.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote: (clip) The mechanic next door asks why people who
break down open the hood of the car? (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That kames it easier for the tow truck driver to spot the car he is looking
for.

When your hood is up, the cars behind you know not to honk.

If you are an attractive lady, it gives all the men an excuse to stop and
offer to help, when they really can't.

Hi Arch

Arch I did reply to your post late last night, I don't know what
happened to it, probably chasing it's own tail in never-never land.

Thank you (dank U ) for your flattering words, Arch I have been very
fortunate in my life, I did grow up in a different time and place, my
background and experience is not just everyday, and my look at things
do reflect that, just a natural thing.
Turning wood has always and still is a love affair, never been a money
thing, and selling my work is just a way to make room for newer
turnings, though not cheap.
Trying to help out others just feels good, and I also receive back
from others like you, Arch, I do not have the only answer or all the
knowledge, and I appreciate also the time people like you have put in
to keep this old wrec going.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo




On May 13, 4:12 pm, (Arch) wrote:
Whatever untapered world Leo V. lives in, he sure knows how to cut both
wood and metal. He turns some beautiful work and does it over and over
again with many innovations. I for one am glad he shares his knowledge
and experience in his friendly manner without forcing it on us. Don't
know the Dutch word for thanks else I'd try to use it now.

As for 'ole 43' aka Leo L. He also knows what he's doing around a
turning shop and elsewhere and shares his expertise with us with style,
his laser sharp wit .....and aplomb. Thanks '43'.

Gerald, Thanks for posting your ideas. I'm working on figuring out your
ways and means, but in the meantime send some mud down our way.
Anything but this parched dust. Looks like rain up there today, but the
hell of it is we ain't up there.

Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter

http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

When I could not fnd my carburetor anymore, I gave up trying to fix
cars. The mechanic next door asks why people who break down open the
hood of the car? Unless the radiator is boilng over there is nothing
to fix without the computer read out. Why dealers get rich and drivers
go grey. ---


I quit when I opened the hood and didn't see anything I recognized. HOW
does this thing work??

You know it would take me at least two hours to change the battery in my
van? That thing is so buried it has an eight inch riser bar from the
positive so you can get a cable on the thing to jump start a car. What on
earth are all those hoses over it anyway? On the other hand, not fixing it
gives time to turn. No money to fix it, just time to turn.
---
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:XD52i.8399$1X1.3233@trndny02...
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

When I could not fnd my carburetor anymore, I gave up trying to fix
cars. The mechanic next door asks why people who break down open the
hood of the car? Unless the radiator is boilng over there is nothing
to fix without the computer read out. Why dealers get rich and drivers
go grey. ---


I quit when I opened the hood and didn't see anything I recognized. HOW
does this thing work??

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

You know it would take me at least two hours to change the battery in
my van? That thing is so buried it has an eight inch riser bar from
the positive so you can get a cable on the thing to jump start a car.
What on earth are all those hoses over it anyway? On the other hand,
not fixing it gives time to turn. No money to fix it, just time to
turn.

Had a 62 Chevy with a straight six. Used to climb into the engine
compartment when tuning it. Not quite enough room for a tent ...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:IYe2i.6334$4a1.4250@trndny07...
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

You know it would take me at least two hours to change the battery in
my van? That thing is so buried it has an eight inch riser bar from
the positive so you can get a cable on the thing to jump start a car.
What on earth are all those hoses over it anyway? On the other hand,
not fixing it gives time to turn. No money to fix it, just time to
turn.

Had a 62 Chevy with a straight six. Used to climb into the engine
compartment when tuning it. Not quite enough room for a tent ...

Had to climb on that old GM V8 arrangement with the distributor centered in
the back, almost to the firewall. Blazer needed a ladder or lift.

Still, when they say they don't make 'em like they used to, I'm glad. Can't
be a mechanic anymore, have to be a plumber and electronics tech, but I seem
to be driving them for a hundred fifty, or two hundred now. Unheard of when
I was a muscle-car freak.

On Mon, 14 May 2007 15:34:51 GMT, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:

Arch
When I could not fnd my carburetor anymore, I gave up trying to fix cars.
The mechanic next door asks why people who break down open the hood of the
car? Unless the radiator is boilng over there is nothing to fix without the
computer read out. Why dealers get rich and drivers go grey.

I'm not much of a mechanic, but I'd say that guy is just trying to
drum up business... There are still a number of things that a guy
with a screwdriver and a cresent wrench can patch up and get back on
the road. Last time my wife's car broke down, it was because one of
the transmission lines blew off. No computer needed for that one,
just a flat head screwdriver and some new ATF.

"George" wrote:


"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:IYe2i.6334$4a1.4250@trndny07...
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

You know it would take me at least two hours to change the battery
in my van? That thing is so buried it has an eight inch riser bar
from the positive so you can get a cable on the thing to jump start
a car. What on earth are all those hoses over it anyway? On the
other hand, not fixing it gives time to turn. No money to fix it,
just time to turn.

Had a 62 Chevy with a straight six. Used to climb into the engine
compartment when tuning it. Not quite enough room for a tent ...

Had to climb on that old GM V8 arrangement with the distributor
centered in the back, almost to the firewall. Blazer needed a ladder
or lift.


The Chrysler slant six was bad. The distributor was way down beneath the
slant.

Lobby Dosser wrote in news:ONq2i.13105
$1X1.5686@trndny02:

"George" wrote:


"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:IYe2i.6334$4a1.4250@trndny07...
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

You know it would take me at least two hours to change the battery
in my van? That thing is so buried it has an eight inch riser bar
from the positive so you can get a cable on the thing to jump start
a car. What on earth are all those hoses over it anyway? On the
other hand, not fixing it gives time to turn. No money to fix it,
just time to turn.

Had a 62 Chevy with a straight six. Used to climb into the engine
compartment when tuning it. Not quite enough room for a tent ...

Had to climb on that old GM V8 arrangement with the distributor
centered in the back, almost to the firewall. Blazer needed a ladder
or lift.


The Chrysler slant six was bad. The distributor was way down beneath the
slant.


Yup, but the slant would run forever until the rotor fell apart. The points
didn't care if they were ever changed, cleaned or gapped. Hard engine to
kill (harder than a Chevy 235).
Hank

"Henry St.Pierre" wrote:

Lobby Dosser wrote in
news:ONq2i.13105 $1X1.5686@trndny02:

"George" wrote:


"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:IYe2i.6334$4a1.4250@trndny07...
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

You know it would take me at least two hours to change the battery
in my van? That thing is so buried it has an eight inch riser bar
from the positive so you can get a cable on the thing to jump
start a car. What on earth are all those hoses over it anyway? On
the other hand, not fixing it gives time to turn. No money to fix
it, just time to turn.

Had a 62 Chevy with a straight six. Used to climb into the engine
compartment when tuning it. Not quite enough room for a tent ...

Had to climb on that old GM V8 arrangement with the distributor
centered in the back, almost to the firewall. Blazer needed a
ladder or lift.


The Chrysler slant six was bad. The distributor was way down beneath
the slant.


Yup, but the slant would run forever until the rotor fell apart. The
points didn't care if they were ever changed, cleaned or gapped. Hard
engine to kill (harder than a Chevy 235).
Hank


No kidding! About the only way you could mess one up was to cross thread a
spark plug.

On Tue, 15 May 2007 22:49:18 GMT, Lobby Dosser
wrote:

The Chrysler slant six was bad. The distributor was way down beneath the
slant.

The water pump on my Yanmar B17 excavator siezed, to get it off I
had to
.. 1. Remove right side counterweight
2. Remove engine cover not strictly necessary but I do
not like banging my head on it - painful and it is only 4 bolts
and a split pin.
3. Undo 4 bolts holding radiator to frame. Cheated a bit this
time as the radiator was recored about 6 months ago and I drilled
access holes in the body panel to get at the 2 inside ones - saved
lots of muttering while undoing bolts 1 flat at a time with a set
spanner, used a socket this time, 30 seconds each.
4. Undo left radiator frame mount to swing it to side
5. Remove fan shroud, 4 bolts. Outside 2 easy, inside 2 were
difficult - 3 clicks of ratchet was all room available and the wrench
dropped a couple of times as I could only hold it with 2 fingers
6. The rest was (relatively) easy. 4 bolts to remove fan blade
and 4 more on pump. Had to soak in penetrating oil to loosen them as
pump body is corroded.

That lot took 2.5 hours, including going out to replace the 1/2
inch drive ratchet, which broke. Gave youngest (mechanic) son my
good Sidchrome one as I usually only need a 3/8

Next, try to find new pump locally otherwise it will have to come
from Melbourne.
Once it is up and running again I can dig out a couple of trees
and prepare the pad where my new woodturning (or metalworking -
haven't decided which yet) shed will go - 11 weeks to almost enough
working space. Old place was 48 sq metres, existing shed = 30 sm,
new will be 39.5 sm, total 69.5, maximum shed area permitted by
council is 70 sm and I will probably add a leanto between the sheds
for wood storage
Alan, in Gosnells, Western Oz.
VK6 YAB VKS 737 - W 6174

wrote:

Once it is up and running again I can dig out a couple of trees
and prepare the pad where my new woodturning (or metalworking -
haven't decided which yet) shed will go - 11 weeks to almost enough
working space. Old place was 48 sq metres, existing shed = 30 sm,
new will be 39.5 sm, total 69.5, maximum shed area permitted by
council is 70 sm and I will probably add a leanto between the sheds
for wood storage


Now you've done it! Back on topic.