About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning different
things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have also turned a few pens
and I have to admit that the first couple lacked a little bit in the fit
department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the "professional"
adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several different styles of pens from
the slimline to an Atlas and a few in between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes these bushings
don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should. Some of the bushings fit
nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I have one set of bushings where the
ID of the bushing is at least .006" larger than the mandrel shaft, and this is
causing some concentricity (is that really a word???)issues . It is just about
impossible to get the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and what do
you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so forth do you
use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have found
several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies, Berea Hardwoods (I
really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey but they provide mostly Berea),
and of course, Penn State Industries. I also found out the other day that Berea
is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite style of
pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do you sell
the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or Flat top, etc.,
and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball, pencil, or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?



Thanks,

Wayne

In article ,
NoOne N Particular wrote:

About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning
different
things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have also turned a few
pens
and I have to admit that the first couple lacked a little bit in the fit
department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the "professional"
adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several different styles of pens
from
the slimline to an Atlas and a few in between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes these
bushings
don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should. Some of the bushings
fit
nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I have one set of bushings where
the
ID of the bushing is at least .006" larger than the mandrel shaft, and this
is
causing some concentricity (is that really a word???)issues . It is just
about
impossible to get the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and what
do
you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so forth do
you
use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have found
several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies, Berea Hardwoods
(I
really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey but they provide mostly
Berea),
and of course, Penn State Industries. I also found out the other day that
Berea
is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite style
of
pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do you sell
the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or Flat top, etc.,
and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball, pencil, or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?



Thanks,

Wayne

On questions 1-3, I have used Penn State's mandrel and bushings
exclusively and had no fit problems. It isn't that I am sure that Penn
State is the best, but they have the stuff I want and they are
convenient. I turn strictly for myself and friends so I may not do
enough volume to be a good source, but I have used 6 or more different
kits. My favorite is the fountain pen because that is what I write with.

Hazel wrote:
In article ,
NoOne N Particular wrote:

About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning
different
things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have also turned a few
pens
and I have to admit that the first couple lacked a little bit in the fit
department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the "professional"
adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several different styles of pens
from
the slimline to an Atlas and a few in between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes these
bushings
don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should. Some of the bushings
fit
nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I have one set of bushings where
the
ID of the bushing is at least .006" larger than the mandrel shaft, and this
is
causing some concentricity (is that really a word???)issues . It is just
about
impossible to get the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and what
do
you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so forth do
you
use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have found
several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies, Berea Hardwoods
(I
really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey but they provide mostly
Berea),
and of course, Penn State Industries. I also found out the other day that
Berea
is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite style
of
pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do you sell
the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or Flat top, etc.,
and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball, pencil, or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?



Thanks,

Wayne

On questions 1-3, I have used Penn State's mandrel and bushings
exclusively and had no fit problems. It isn't that I am sure that Penn
State is the best, but they have the stuff I want and they are
convenient. I turn strictly for myself and friends so I may not do
enough volume to be a good source, but I have used 6 or more different
kits. My favorite is the fountain pen because that is what I write with.

Out of the 15-ish pens/pencils that I have made so far, my favorite is also a
fountain pen. I don't know why I like fountain pens so much because I hardly
ever actually use one. I would say that 99% of my writing is done with a
pencil, and I have two blue Pentels with .7mm leads that I have had for a good
many years now.

But thanks for the info about the PSI mandrel. If I ever decide I just HAVE to
have another one I'll check it out.

Wayne

Wayne

Just bought the whole kit & caboodle at Klingspor's Saturday so we'll see
soon what I've gotten into.

The fountain pen fascinates me, too Been YEARS since I wrote with one.
Probably back at grade school.

IMO roller balls are spring loaded for a cushioned feel and they have a
point that writes more like a fountain pen instead of a ball point -
different ink as well, I think. In other words, a modern fountain pen that
won't catch on the paper while writing fast like a fountain pen. Also, I saw
a video where the guts are interchangeable so you can go either way after
the pen is made.

TomNie

Out of the 15-ish pens/pencils that I have made so far, my favorite is
also a fountain pen. I don't know why I like fountain pens so much
because I hardly ever actually use one. I would say that 99% of my
writing is done with a pencil, and I have two blue Pentels with .7mm leads
that I have had for a good many years now.

But thanks for the info about the PSI mandrel. If I ever decide I just
HAVE to have another one I'll check it out.

Wayne

NoOne N Particular wrote in
. net:

About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning
different things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have
also turned a few pens and I have to admit that the first couple
lacked a little bit in the fit department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the
"professional" adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several
different styles of pens from the slimline to an Atlas and a few in
between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes
these bushings don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should.
Some of the bushings fit nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I
have one set of bushings where the ID of the bushing is at least .006"
larger than the mandrel shaft, and this is causing some concentricity
(is that really a word???)issues . It is just about impossible to get
the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and
what do you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so
forth do you use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have
found several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies,
Berea Hardwoods (I really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey
but they provide mostly Berea), and of course, Penn State Industries.
I also found out the other day that Berea is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite
style of pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do
you sell the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or
Flat top, etc., and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball,
pencil, or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?



Thanks,

Wayne

I also use the Penn State mandrel and bushings and have no problems. My
problem with fit on the mandrel usually comes with the pen tube and then
a small rat tail files solves that quickly. My supplier of choice is
Woodturningz.com. The service great and the prices right. From what I've
read here, not a lot of pens get sold by the every day hobbyist-turner.
I might be wrong, but that was the general flavor I understood. You may
want to try penturners.org for a more focused group of folks. I get
there evey so often and am amazed at the quality and creativity of the
folks.

Good luck
Karl

Got my first pen on the lathe right now (Jet mini). First problem I noticed
was the tail center has a non standard point. It doesn't fit the mandrel
correctly. Are you sure it is your bushings and not the entire mandrel
running out? If you are using the stock center, chances are that this is
most of the problem. Just got back from Rockler to buy a proper center.
While I was there, I checked every lathe they had in the store. Both Jets,
large and small had the non standard center as did both Deltas and their
Chinese import. The correct center for that mandrel has a 60 degree included
angle. The stock ones are sharper than that and will enter to deep in the
hole and ride on the point.
..
"KarlB" wrote in message
...
NoOne N Particular wrote in
. net:

About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning
different things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have
also turned a few pens and I have to admit that the first couple
lacked a little bit in the fit department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the
"professional" adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several
different styles of pens from the slimline to an Atlas and a few in
between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes
these bushings don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should.
Some of the bushings fit nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I
have one set of bushings where the ID of the bushing is at least .006"
larger than the mandrel shaft, and this is causing some concentricity
(is that really a word???)issues . It is just about impossible to get
the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and
what do you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so
forth do you use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have
found several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies,
Berea Hardwoods (I really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey
but they provide mostly Berea), and of course, Penn State Industries.
I also found out the other day that Berea is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite
style of pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do
you sell the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or
Flat top, etc., and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball,
pencil, or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?



Thanks,

Wayne

I also use the Penn State mandrel and bushings and have no problems. My
problem with fit on the mandrel usually comes with the pen tube and then
a small rat tail files solves that quickly. My supplier of choice is
Woodturningz.com. The service great and the prices right. From what I've
read here, not a lot of pens get sold by the every day hobbyist-turner.
I might be wrong, but that was the general flavor I understood. You may
want to try penturners.org for a more focused group of folks. I get
there evey so often and am amazed at the quality and creativity of the
folks.

Good luck
Karl

CW wrote:
Got my first pen on the lathe right now (Jet mini). First problem I noticed
was the tail center has a non standard point. It doesn't fit the mandrel
correctly. Are you sure it is your bushings and not the entire mandrel
running out? If you are using the stock center, chances are that this is
most of the problem. Just got back from Rockler to buy a proper center.
While I was there, I checked every lathe they had in the store. Both Jets,
large and small had the non standard center as did both Deltas and their
Chinese import. The correct center for that mandrel has a 60 degree included
angle. The stock ones are sharper than that and will enter to deep in the
hole and ride on the point.
.
"KarlB" wrote in message
...
NoOne N Particular wrote in
. net:


I noticed that the first time I mounted a mandrel into the lathe so I know what
you are talking about. The live center that came with the lathe does indeed
have a very pointed center. I am using a live center that I borrowed from my
old metal lathe and it does have the 60 deg point.

I am fairly certain that loose bushings are a problem. Most of the other
bushings I have fit much better than this particular set. I was thinking that I
might try to wrap some scotch tape or something around the mandrel shaft the
next time I use them. They shouldn't be worn out because I have only made about
6 or pens with them. Besides, they don't turn on the shaft anyway.

thanks,

Wayne

NoOne N Particular wrote:

snip

I am fairly certain that loose bushings are a problem. Most of the
other bushings I have fit much better than this particular set. I was
thinking that I might try to wrap some scotch tape or something around
the mandrel shaft the next time I use them. They shouldn't be worn out
because I have only made about 6 or pens with them. Besides, they don't
turn on the shaft anyway.

I've found it best to purchase the mandrel, bushings and pen kits from
the same source to avoid fit problems. I stick with Berea's products
either ordering direct or purchasing locally from Rockler's.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

I would say that the tail centers you looked at are the standard. They
are made for wood. My Jet also has a cup center around the point to
keep the point from slitting the wood. I am not a big pen turner but I
looked for a 60 degree point, because I didn't want to ruin my center
from rubbing on metal. I found a Harbor freight that was cheap,
probably for a metal lathe. The only problem was I could not find it in
the store and had to order it on line and the shipping was almost as
much as it was. I have been happy with both. One for wood and the
other for the metal mandrel.

Bruce



CW wrote:


Got my first pen on the lathe right now (Jet mini). First problem I noticed
was the tail center has a non standard point. It doesn't fit the mandrel
correctly. Are you sure it is your bushings and not the entire mandrel
running out? If you are using the stock center, chances are that this is
most of the problem. Just got back from Rockler to buy a proper center.
While I was there, I checked every lathe they had in the store. Both Jets,
large and small had the non standard center as did both Deltas and their
Chinese import. The correct center for that mandrel has a 60 degree included
angle. The stock ones are sharper than that and will enter to deep in the
hole and ride on the point.
.
"KarlB" wrote in message
...
NoOne N Particular wrote in
. net:

About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning
different things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have
also turned a few pens and I have to admit that the first couple
lacked a little bit in the fit department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the
"professional" adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several
different styles of pens from the slimline to an Atlas and a few in
between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes
these bushings don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should.
Some of the bushings fit nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I
have one set of bushings where the ID of the bushing is at least .006"
larger than the mandrel shaft, and this is causing some concentricity
(is that really a word???)issues . It is just about impossible to get
the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and
what do you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so
forth do you use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have
found several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies,
Berea Hardwoods (I really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey
but they provide mostly Berea), and of course, Penn State Industries.
I also found out the other day that Berea is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite
style of pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do
you sell the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or
Flat top, etc., and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball,
pencil, or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?



Thanks,

Wayne
I also use the Penn State mandrel and bushings and have no problems. My
problem with fit on the mandrel usually comes with the pen tube and then
a small rat tail files solves that quickly. My supplier of choice is
Woodturningz.com. The service great and the prices right. From what I've
read here, not a lot of pens get sold by the every day hobbyist-turner.
I might be wrong, but that was the general flavor I understood. You may
want to try penturners.org for a more focused group of folks. I get
there evey so often and am amazed at the quality and creativity of the
folks.

Good luck
Karl

KarlB wrote:
NoOne N Particular wrote in
. net:

About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning
different things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have
also turned a few pens and I have to admit that the first couple
lacked a little bit in the fit department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the
"professional" adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several
different styles of pens from the slimline to an Atlas and a few in
between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes
these bushings don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should.
Some of the bushings fit nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I
have one set of bushings where the ID of the bushing is at least .006"
larger than the mandrel shaft, and this is causing some concentricity
(is that really a word???)issues . It is just about impossible to get
the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and
what do you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so
forth do you use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have
found several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies,
Berea Hardwoods (I really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey
but they provide mostly Berea), and of course, Penn State Industries.
I also found out the other day that Berea is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite
style of pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do
you sell the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or
Flat top, etc., and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball,
pencil, or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?



Thanks,

Wayne

I also use the Penn State mandrel and bushings and have no problems. My
problem with fit on the mandrel usually comes with the pen tube and then
a small rat tail files solves that quickly. My supplier of choice is
Woodturningz.com. The service great and the prices right. From what I've
read here, not a lot of pens get sold by the every day hobbyist-turner.
I might be wrong, but that was the general flavor I understood. You may
want to try penturners.org for a more focused group of folks. I get
there evey so often and am amazed at the quality and creativity of the
folks.

Good luck
Karl
Thanks for the tips. I just went over to Woodturningz.com and just took a quick
look. It seems like their selection of pen kits is somewhat limited compared to
someplace like Berea, but the prices looked good for what they do have.

As for penturners.org, some of those guys are just nuckin futz! Some of their
stuff is just unbelievable. Some of those pens look like they took hundreds of
hours to complete just one pen. that MIGHT be an exaggeration, but they
certainly put in lots of hours and they are quite good artists too.


Wayne

In article ,
NoOne N Particular wrote:

About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning
different
things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have also turned a few
pens
and I have to admit that the first couple lacked a little bit in the fit
department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the "professional"
adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several different styles of pens
from
the slimline to an Atlas and a few in between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes these
bushings
don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should. Some of the bushings
fit
nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I have one set of bushings where
the
ID of the bushing is at least .006" larger than the mandrel shaft, and this
is
causing some concentricity (is that really a word???)issues . It is just
about
impossible to get the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

I have been told that not all sources are -exactly- the same size. If
you buy your mandrel from one source, you should buy your pens and
bushings from the same source. BTW, there are only 4 (or 5?) actuall
sources in the USA, the others just sell the from them. But I don't
recall the list (see penturners.org)

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Actually there are 2 sizes of mandrels for the Berea pens. If you
look at the Arizona Silhouette pen list some of the kits require a
bearing with a B after the number. Those require the larger mandrel.
Though if you are looking for accuracy you should use a micrometer to
check the pen kit parts. There can be a big difference from 1 kit to
the next. The bearings are just a rough guide. You can always make
your own out of scrap stock there is no mystery to what they are. Also
the bearings do wear out.
Runout problems can be caused by a bent mandrel, putting to much
pressure on the mandrel with the tailstock, bent tube etc.
All of those suppliers are well known. They do not all carry the
same Berea kits though and not to confuse the issue to much some of
them call the same kit by different names.
For a less intense group of penturners check out the penturners
group on yahoo.

Paul


On Apr 15, 3:50 pm, NoOne N Particular wrote:
About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning different
things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have also turned a few pens
and I have to admit that the first couple lacked a little bit in the fit
department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the "professional"
adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several different styles of pens from
the slimline to an Atlas and a few in between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes these bushings
don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should. Some of the bushings fit
nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I have one set of bushings where the
ID of the bushing is at least .006" larger than the mandrel shaft, and this is
causing some concentricity (is that really a word???)issues . It is just about
impossible to get the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and what do
you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so forth do you
use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have found
several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies, Berea Hardwoods (I
really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey but they provide mostly Berea),
and of course, Penn State Industries. I also found out the other day that Berea
is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite style of
pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do you sell
the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or Flat top, etc.,
and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball, pencil, or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?

Thanks,

Wayne

paulg wrote:
Actually there are 2 sizes of mandrels for the Berea pens. If you
look at the Arizona Silhouette pen list some of the kits require a
bearing with a B after the number. Those require the larger mandrel.
Though if you are looking for accuracy you should use a micrometer to
check the pen kit parts. There can be a big difference from 1 kit to
the next. The bearings are just a rough guide. You can always make
your own out of scrap stock there is no mystery to what they are. Also
the bearings do wear out.
Runout problems can be caused by a bent mandrel, putting to much
pressure on the mandrel with the tailstock, bent tube etc.
All of those suppliers are well known. They do not all carry the
same Berea kits though and not to confuse the issue to much some of
them call the same kit by different names.
For a less intense group of penturners check out the penturners
group on yahoo.

Paul



snip snip snip

I also know about the two different shafts for the Berea and Rockler mandrels.
The one set that I am talking about is from Rockler with a Rockler pen kit and
Rockler mandrel (the "A" mandrel).

Regarding runout, I don't think a bent mandrel is my problem and is another
topic of discussion. One of them might be juuuuust a smidgeon bent now since I
tried a little tweaking on it, but the others I think are straight. I cleaned
off the flattest surfaces that I have (my table saw and bandsaw tables) and the
shafts roll on them smoothly. If there was even a small amount of bend in the
shaft, they wouldn't roll smoothly.

As for pressure from the tailstock, I have moved the tailstock in only far
enough for the threaded end of the shaft to stop wobbling and tightened it down.
At that point the two ends of the shaft will be running true (unable to feel
any vibration in the shaft), but I can still feel a little bit of wobble in the
middle. Even with a bare shaft with no pen blank or bushings etc. BUT, if the
shafts are straight to begin with, why doesn't the shaft turn true without a
tailstock in place?

This is why I think the runout might be another topic to discuss. That, to me,
indicates a problem with the morse taper in the headstock, or perhaps the
headstock shaft itself might be bent. It's like the taper on the mandrel isn't
seating into the headstock taper straight. The mandrel does, however, fit
tightly even with just a small amount of pressure when installing it, and it
takes a good whack with the removal tool when the time comes. I've cleaned and
examined all of the mandrel tapers and the headstock taper, and they are clean
and appear undamaged. No galling, no burrs, no caked on finish, no stuck dust,
filings, or chips, no nuttin.

I mentioned that the headstock shaft might be bent, but I have also put my dial
indicator on the headstock and there is very negligible runout there. Putting
the indicator point on the inside of the taper and had turning the shaft slowly,
there is less than .001" runout. Maybe something on the order of .0003" or
..0004" (3 or 4 TEN-thousandths). The indicator needle just barely moves. If
the shaft were bent it seems like it would be more than that. And measuring a
point outside the taper and behind the threads matched that reading.

Anyway, after all that I do appreciate your input.

Thanks,

Wayne

NoOne N Particular wrote:

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and
what do you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Yes. Tighten the nut holding the wood & bushings together so that they
move as a unit. Discard loose bushings. Check mandrel OD's with a mic.
They vary ... even within a brand. You may just have a bum mandrel
shaft. They got the money, you got the shaft. Welcome to pen turning.
Beware of tailstock creep. The sharp tailstock center provided with your
lathe is meant to dig into end grain. Get a 60deg. center. HARDENED, if
you can find one. Vary the rpm's at which you spin. You may be getting
bitten by harmonic vibrations. See next answer.

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so
forth do you use?

I use the collet-type mandrel & chuck from PSI. In fact, I use several
of them so that I can prep more than one pen at the same time. I DO NOT
use 'spacer bushings', I push the mandrel into the collet as far as
possible to reduce runout. The mandrels are soft and will flex. One tip:
once I chuck up a mandrel and turn the wood, it doesn't leave the lathe
until it is completed. I don't count on a dead-true re-chucking. Maybe
it happens, maybe it doesn't. When it happens, I try not to act too
surprised ... I want the lathe to think that this is how things are
supposed to be. ;-)

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have
found several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies, Berea
Hardwoods (I really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey but they
provide mostly Berea), and of course, Penn State Industries. I also
found out the other day that Berea is the supplier for Rockler.

I primarily get my kits from Woodturningz. Their online catalog is the
pits. Period. However, they carry all of the pen kits in the PSI catalog
(and most of the small tooling, as well) so you can just grab a paper
catalog from PSI and fire off an e-mail to ryan woodturningz dotcom with
your order. He'd prefer that you call in your order, but -I- prefer to
have a written record of what I ordered and when. Not just my notes, but
an actual, traceable, copy of the order. My experience with verbal
orders has not been good ... they give me the hives. When an order gets
scrambled, you can't be certain who is responsible and even if you are
99.9% certain that you didn't order 'this' or that you did order 'that',
you certainly can't prove it to a third party.

I get my pen blanks from all over, and even have a few to sell on my own
web site. If they have the species you want, I can recommend The Rivers
Edge Exotics (eBay). I have curly tamarind and will soon have others.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite
style of pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

I like to make the Designer, Sculptured and Cigar pens. They are both
stylish and easy to hold and, as the baby boomers age, that is becoming
more important to people.

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do you
sell the most of?

Names quickly get confusing (on purpose, I think). I sell the most of
the above pens and have repeat customers for each. The Polaris and
Executive styles also sell okay.

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?

A roller ball generally uses a gel-type ink. I haven't any direct
experience with them so I can't give any further information. Other have
replied with tips for additional resources.



Thanks,

Wayne

You're welcome.

Bill


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Bushings to me are a wear item. So I cut right up to them, ever so
gently. Then I can usually get a perfect fit. tricker though when you
have a brass tupe tennon sticking out. I then us a wide scraper to span
the 1/8th inch gap and size up the wood that way.

Perhaps some scotch tape can tighten up a fit.

John

NoOne N Particular wrote:

About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning
different things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have also
turned a few pens and I have to admit that the first couple lacked a
little bit in the fit department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the "professional"
adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several different styles of
pens from the slimline to an Atlas and a few in between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes these
bushings don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should. Some of
the bushings fit nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I have one
set of bushings where the ID of the bushing is at least .006" larger
than the mandrel shaft, and this is causing some concentricity (is that
really a word???)issues . It is just about impossible to get the center
ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and
what do you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so
forth do you use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have
found several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies, Berea
Hardwoods (I really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey but they
provide mostly Berea), and of course, Penn State Industries. I also
found out the other day that Berea is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite
style of pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do you
sell the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or Flat
top, etc., and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball, pencil,
or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?



Thanks,

Wayne

Eddie Munster wrote:
Bushings to me are a wear item. So I cut right up to them, ever so
gently. Then I can usually get a perfect fit. tricker though when you
have a brass tupe tennon sticking out. I then us a wide scraper to span
the 1/8th inch gap and size up the wood that way.

Perhaps some scotch tape can tighten up a fit.

John


I scribe off where the tube is to be exposed and cut straight across
from the bushing to there, then taper the body to that point before
removing the tenon material.

Just another way to get to the same end.

Bill

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On Apr 15, 3:50 pm, NoOne N Particular wrote:
About 3 months ago I purchased a Delta 14" lathe and have been turning different
things to learn some of the tools and techniques. I have also turned a few pens
and I have to admit that the first couple lacked a little bit in the fit
department, but I am getting better.

I have purchased a couple of different types of mandrels. One is the
"precision" one piece from Rockler, and the other is the "professional"
adjustable from Woodcraft. I have tried several different styles of pens from
the slimline to an Atlas and a few in between.

Each type of pen requires it's own set of bushings, and sometimes these bushings
don't fit on the mandrel shaft as well as they should. Some of the bushings fit
nice and snug on the shaft and some don't. I have one set of bushings where the
ID of the bushing is at least .006" larger than the mandrel shaft, and this is
causing some concentricity (is that really a word???)issues . It is just about
impossible to get the center ring to fit the pen cap on all sides.

So here is the question. Do any of y'all have problems like this, and what do
you do to resolve them? (I guess that is two questions).

Let's go for the triple. As a third question, what mandrels and so forth do you
use?

OK. FOUR questions. Where do you get your supplies and kits? I have found
several places including Rockler, Woodcraft, Craft Supplies, Berea Hardwoods (I
really likey), and Arizona Silhoutte (also likey but they provide mostly Berea),
and of course, Penn State Industries. I also found out the other day that Berea
is the supplier for Rockler.

OK OK OK, FIVE questions. Last one I promise. What is your favorite style of
pen and why? (OK, that makes 6 questions.)

And since I already broke my promise, which style and type of pen do you sell
the most of? By style I mean Slimline, European round top or Flat top, etc.,
and by type I mean ball point, fountain, rollerball, pencil, or some sets?

Lastly, what is the difference between a ballpoint and a roller ball?

Thanks,

Wayne

I've been using the 7mm nmadrel from Woodcraft with no problems such
as you have had.

I'll put in a good word for Arizona Silhoutte - Bill gives excellent
service and usually tosses in a "extra" such as a pen blank - I've
wound up turning some blanks that I might otherwise have never
picked. I also highly recommend Ken Nelson's laser inlayed / engraved
pen kits at www.kallenshaanwoods.com

I like the Baron models both in a FP and RB styles. I also like Sierra
model especially for the snake skin type pen. I like the weight and
quality of these kits. To a lesser extent SlimLine and Atlas are fun
to make.

the penturner's group on Yahoo is also a good place to lurk for info.

Alex