OK we all use it at some point, but what is the best way to keep it from
floating all over the shop when you use small strips or little pieces?
TIA

I keep my sandpaper in a filing folder. Folder then slips in the book
rack/reference books on the shelf above my bench.

I have a Bank of Small Pigeon Holes made from Square Rain Water Down Pipe,
one Hole for each grade.

Details on my web site at http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk one of numerous
Tips in the Hints n Tips Section.

RVS

"triker3" wrote in message
...
OK we all use it at some point, but what is the best way to keep it from
floating all over the shop when you use small strips or little pieces?
TIA

Since I use it (mostly) at the lathe I've set up my "system"

At the lathe, I use 1/4 sheet pieces, folded into quarters, with one seam
ripped, so that grit doesn't touch grit. I keep all of them (and the discs
for my 2" disc sander) in an old sour cream container. (Well usually. What
I mean is that when I pick up the work area, they go back into there, so
they are available when I want to sand. Just grab the container.)

I also keep the rest of the full sheets of each grit clipped with a thesis
clip in that same container. The rest of the full sheets are kept in their
cardboard backing from the store, flat in a drawer.

That means that when I wear out one of the quarter sheets, I just pull the
replacement out of the pack (and THROW AWAY THE OLD WORN OUT ONE SO I DON'T
PICK IT UP AGAIN! EVER!) and keep on sanding. When I have used all 4
quarters, I have to trek to the drawer, pull out the next sheet and rip it
into quarters, but I probably needed the break anyhow.

I still find folded sandpaper lying around (I wonder who does that?) but on
straighten up, it goes back to the sour cream container, and gets used up
and then thrown away.

To me, having the stock of quarter sheets easily available, and throwing
away the worn out pieces seems to reduce the hassle.



"triker3" wrote in message
...
OK we all use it at some point, but what is the best way to keep it from
floating all over the shop when you use small strips or little pieces?
TIA

Other tips on sandpaper and using it....

To keep your fingers from burning while sanding place a small piece of
folded cloth behind the paper. It's an old trick that our instructor said
won't be found in a book. Works great!

And...(many already know this I'm sure)....I was tearing off strips of
sandpaper only to discover after sanding that I forgot to write the number
on them. Yesterday a light came on :O) If the strips are torn top to
bottom instead of sideways the number is always there. (Hey - everyone has
to see something for the first time!)

Keith

Hi Salmo

Salmo, I'll give you another tip for not burning your fingers on the
sandpaper. TURN DOWN THE SPEED !!!!
That way the wood will not get to hot as well, it's the better of the
two IMO.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


Salmo wrote:
Other tips on sandpaper and using it....

To keep your fingers from burning while sanding place a small piece of
folded cloth behind the paper. It's an old trick that our instructor said
won't be found in a book. Works great!

And...(many already know this I'm sure)....I was tearing off strips of
sandpaper only to discover after sanding that I forgot to write the number
on them. Yesterday a light came on :O) If the strips are torn top to
bottom instead of sideways the number is always there. (Hey - everyone has
to see something for the first time!)

Keith

Thanks..I sand at the last speed I used while turning and have yet to change
the speed to slow. The wood doesn't get hot because I don't keep the paper
there long enough to burn as I'm changing from 100-120-180-220-320-400-800
until a sheen shows. ...

The cloth piece behind the sandpaper really does do the trick. I'll try the
slower speed anyway just to compare the finish difference (or non
difference).

Keith

In article ,
"Salmo" wrote:

Thanks..I sand at the last speed I used while turning and have yet to change
the speed to slow. The wood doesn't get hot because I don't keep the paper
there long enough to burn as I'm changing from 100-120-180-220-320-400-800
until a sheen shows. ...

The cloth piece behind the sandpaper really does do the trick. I'll try the
slower speed anyway just to compare the finish difference (or non
difference).

On some woods, you can cause heat checks in the end grain from
overheating. My rule is that if it's too hot to continue sanding, then
slow it down.

Years ago, a regular to this group, Lyn Mangiameli, discussed slow speed
sanding. After I tried it I was a convert - I now rarely sand above 500
rpm - and oftentimes it's much slower depending on the work diameter.
I'll see if I can look up the thread and post the link.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
On some woods, you can cause heat checks in the end grain from
overheating. My rule is that if it's too hot to continue sanding, then
slow it down.


Hmmmm, my book says sand with less pressure at whatever speed you care and
you'll get less heat. Coefficient of friction being basically the same,
(might actually be less at low pressure) it all depends on pressure, not
speed.

Years ago, a regular to this group, Lyn Mangiameli, discussed slow speed
sanding. After I tried it I was a convert - I now rarely sand above 500
rpm - and oftentimes it's much slower depending on the work diameter.
I'll see if I can look up the thread and post the link.


Yeah, Lyn discussed a lot of things. Some of which made good sense. This
is not one of them. Lathe speed when paper is unpowered is worth keeping at
a reasonable rate, but that's for the operator's safety. When paper is
powered and circular, you can have an additive, subtractive, or composite
speed _at any given point on the circumference_, which really complicates
things. Makes pontification on speed just that, though once again, speed
doesn't produce heat.

Sort of like your comparison of the weight of the Robust vs Oneway, it's
meaningless. Rigidity is what counts. The rest can be bolted securely in
place, and already is on the heavier lathe.

Aren't we sidetracked here? The question is not heat or friction, but what
delivers the best looking piece of work.

My experience is that when I slow down the work, it looks better after I
sand it. Not exactly sure why, but it does. I have fewer deep scratches,
and better control so I don't sand off the sharp details. And high speed
sanding on softwood face turning, is a guarantee to ripples because the
softer summer wood is removed, leaving the harder spring wood (?).

Also it doesn't throw the dust as far, and the feel of the project is less
frantic--like I'm in control, not the machine.

My $.02

Old Guy


"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Salmo" wrote:

Thanks..I sand at the last speed I used while turning and have yet to
change
the speed to slow. The wood doesn't get hot because I don't keep the
paper
there long enough to burn as I'm changing from
100-120-180-220-320-400-800
until a sheen shows. ...

The cloth piece behind the sandpaper really does do the trick. I'll try
the
slower speed anyway just to compare the finish difference (or non
difference).

On some woods, you can cause heat checks in the end grain from
overheating. My rule is that if it's too hot to continue sanding, then
slow it down.

Years ago, a regular to this group, Lyn Mangiameli, discussed slow speed
sanding. After I tried it I was a convert - I now rarely sand above 500
rpm - and oftentimes it's much slower depending on the work diameter.
I'll see if I can look up the thread and post the link.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe,
warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called
degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your
finger. A pic for the strong of stomach:
www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for
finished smoothness.

In article ,
Owen Lowe wrote:

Years ago, a regular to this group, Lyn Mangiameli, discussed slow speed
sanding. After I tried it I was a convert - I now rarely sand above 500
rpm - and oftentimes it's much slower depending on the work diameter.
I'll see if I can look up the thread and post the link.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.c...3d44827484e9de
1b?&hl=en

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.