Sandpaper isn't something people normally get excited about, but I
thought some of you folks would appreciate this. During my last
materials run, Carl, the owner of the Wood Rack, in Branford, CT gave me
some freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! G samples of a sandpaper he's begun to use
and sell. TWR is a small custom shop that resells supplies to the local
cabal.

The paper is called Norton Champagne Magnum (A275).

http://www.ind.nortonabrasives.com/media/lineart/S0000000000000001035/Sheets%20-%20A275.jpg

It's a hard abrasive attached nicely to a heavy (B weight), ruby colored
paper. The paper is extremely durable and flexible, almost a cloth.
The paper doesn't crease, which also helps keep the grit in place. I've
been using the 100, 120, and 150 grit samples he's provided me on felt
blocks and tadpole sanders. The stuff simply seems to keep on cutting!

If you can find this stuff locally, try _one_ sheet. It's expensive,
but I'll be buying it as I run out of the grits I have. When Carl gave
it to me, he stated "This is the stuff that you pick up the little
scraps so that you don't waste them." He wasn't kidding. G

A275 cuts and lasts as well or better than the Mirka Gold I use for
power sanding, and better than Norton 3X and the 3M purple paper. It
flat out destroys typical Norton and 3M BORG sandpaper.

I have no connection to Norton, The Wood Rack, etc... other than as a
customer.

Barry

Have any white papers been done on it?

JP

Jay Pique wrote:
Have any white papers been done on it?

JP


I don't know. Here's Norton's brochure for the rest of us:

http://www.ind.nortonabrasives.com/Media/Documents/S0000000000000001035/Norton%20Stock%20Catalog%202005-2006%20Paper%20Sheets.pdf

On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 11:07:50 GMT, B a r r y
wrote:

Sandpaper isn't something people normally get excited about, but I
thought some of you folks would appreciate this. During my last
materials run, Carl, the owner of the Wood Rack, in Branford, CT gave me
some freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! G samples of a sandpaper he's begun to use
and sell. TWR is a small custom shop that resells supplies to the local
cabal.


it's not more then the next grade down if I bought a 100 cound box. i
it is like their other stuff it is pretty aggressive and does not do a
fine job. you need a different one in the 220 or 320 range.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Steve knight wrote:

On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 11:07:50 GMT, B a r r y
wrote:

Sandpaper isn't something people normally get excited about, but I
thought some of you folks would appreciate this. During my last
materials run, Carl, the owner of the Wood Rack, in Branford, CT gave me
some freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! G samples of a sandpaper he's begun to use
and sell. TWR is a small custom shop that resells supplies to the local
cabal.


it's not more then the next grade down if I bought a 100 cound box. i
it is like their other stuff it is pretty aggressive and does not do a
fine job. you need a different one in the 220 or 320 range.

??? I have no idea what you just said, Steve...

"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...

it's not more then the next grade down if I bought a 100 cound box. i
it is like their other stuff it is pretty aggressive and does not do a
fine job. you need a different one in the 220 or 320 range.

??? I have no idea what you just said, Steve...

I believe he is saying that this particular grade of paper is only available
in rough grits. To get into more common finer woodworking grits you have to
move to another grade/style of paper.

I believe he is saying that this particular grade of paper is only available
in rough grits. To get into more common finer woodworking grits you have to
move to another grade/style of paper.


I meant that the paper is pretty aggressive it makes for fast sanding.
but it tends to leave deeper scratches then the same grit in other
papers. so on the finer grits like 220 and 320 you will get a better
look if you fish with a more standard paper then these.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Sounds kinda like the stuff they use for making belt sander belts. I
have seen this stuff for random orbit sanders as well, but not in sheet
form. BTW, B weight isn't exactly heavyweight paper. I use D weight
for anything 60 grit and rougher, and some types of disks are J weight
and belts are X weight. The belts actually are cloth.

On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 19:42:49 -0700, Steve knight
wrote:



I believe he is saying that this particular grade of paper is only available
in rough grits. To get into more common finer woodworking grits you have to
move to another grade/style of paper.


I meant that the paper is pretty aggressive it makes for fast sanding.
but it tends to leave deeper scratches then the same grit in other
papers. so on the finer grits like 220 and 320 you will get a better
look if you fish with a more standard paper then these.

I wonder if that's related to the new grading system that's coming
into vogue. I think Charlie Self wrote about it in a recent FWW
article (or was it Woodshop News?).


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 11:07:50 GMT, B a r r y
wrote:

If you can find this stuff locally, try _one_ sheet. It's expensive,
but I'll be buying it as I run out of the grits I have. When Carl gave
it to me, he stated "This is the stuff that you pick up the little
scraps so that you don't waste them." He wasn't kidding.

I do that with all my sandpaper, no kidding. So long as you don't buy
some made-in China rubbish that leaves bits of grit all over the job
you're fine with the less expensive, less yuppyville material.

LRod wrote:

On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 19:42:49 -0700, Steve knight
wrote:



I believe he is saying that this particular grade of paper is only available
in rough grits. To get into more common finer woodworking grits you have to
move to another grade/style of paper.


I meant that the paper is pretty aggressive it makes for fast sanding.
but it tends to leave deeper scratches then the same grit in other
papers. so on the finer grits like 220 and 320 you will get a better
look if you fish with a more standard paper then these.

I wonder if that's related to the new grading system that's coming
into vogue. I think Charlie Self wrote about it in a recent FWW
article (or was it Woodshop News?).

Don't know the answer specifically to your question of whether these are
CAMI or FEPA-graded but there was a sidebar on the grading systems in
FWW not too long ago. (Also don't recall if it was Charlie's or not)
but the (old system) CAMI grades are increasingly coarser as compared to
the same FEPA numeric value as one goes finer beyond 220. This could
well be the difference.

OK, I got curious--and lucky--the right issue was still laying around.
FWW #176 (April '05). The article was by Mark Schofield. I don't see
Woodshop News so can't say whether they had something as well.

On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 08:54:05 -0500, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

Don't know the answer specifically to your question of whether these are
CAMI or FEPA-graded but there was a sidebar on the grading systems in
FWW not too long ago. (Also don't recall if it was Charlie's or not)
but the (old system) CAMI grades are increasingly coarser as compared to
the same FEPA numeric value as one goes finer beyond 220. This could
well be the difference.

OK, I got curious--and lucky--the right issue was still laying around.
FWW #176 (April '05). The article was by Mark Schofield. I don't see
Woodshop News so can't say whether they had something as well.

I must have mixed up the subjects. Thanks for the followup.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

LRod wrote:

On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 08:54:05 -0500, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

Don't know the answer specifically to your question of whether these are
CAMI or FEPA-graded but there was a sidebar on the grading systems in
FWW not too long ago. (Also don't recall if it was Charlie's or not)
but the (old system) CAMI grades are increasingly coarser as compared to
the same FEPA numeric value as one goes finer beyond 220. This could
well be the difference.

OK, I got curious--and lucky--the right issue was still laying around.
FWW #176 (April '05). The article was by Mark Schofield. I don't see
Woodshop News so can't say whether they had something as well.

I must have mixed up the subjects. Thanks for the followup.

No problem...I was just putting stuff away and the back cover flopped
open and lo! and behold there's a section I didn't recall nor look
at--it lists major manufacturers and their current grading systems.
Turns out (according to this anyway) that Norton has gone almost
exclusively from CAMI to FEPA grading but they have NOT added the "P"
prefix to either their paper NOR the packaging. W/ this change and
lack of visual notification it is very likely to be the cause of the
difference in performance Steve is noticing.

The one advantage I see of FEPA over CAMI is the tighter tolerances on
grit variation so that performance will be more consistent but I suspect
that really would only be apparent in a production facility w/ automated
machine sanding, and very unlikely to be discernible to the average
wooddorker. Someone such as Steve, otoh, w/ a production product may
see some advantages.

Steve knight wrote:

I believe he is saying that this particular grade of paper is only available
in rough grits. To get into more common finer woodworking grits you have to
move to another grade/style of paper.



I meant that the paper is pretty aggressive it makes for fast sanding.
but it tends to leave deeper scratches then the same grit in other
papers. so on the finer grits like 220 and 320 you will get a better
look if you fish with a more standard paper then these.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

I thought you didn't use sandpaper, just hand planes.

--

B a r r y wrote:
Sandpaper isn't something people normally get excited about, but I
thought some of you folks would appreciate this. During my last
materials run, Carl, the owner of the Wood Rack, in Branford, CT gave me
some freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! G samples of a sandpaper he's begun to use
and sell. TWR is a small custom shop that resells supplies to the local
cabal.

Holy lumber, Bat Man! I never knew that place was there. I live in
Hamden and have been driving to Harris in Manchester for all my wood.
Thanks for the tip Barry!

--Rick

I thought you didn't use sandpaper, just hand planes.

never seen a plane that rounds corners over (G)
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Steve knight writes:

never seen a plane that rounds corners over (G)

They cost ~$20. I have one. Fixed radius w/2 blades.

So - when can we expect a Knight Toolworks version? (G)


--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

On 12 Aug 2005 14:58:01 GMT, Bruce Barnett
wrote:

Steve knight writes:

never seen a plane that rounds corners over (G)

They cost ~$20. I have one. Fixed radius w/2 blades.

So - when can we expect a Knight Toolworks version? (G)

thats rounding an edge not a courner. plus it looks like a router did
it. I like curves that are more naterual. it takes an inflatable drum
sander to get the curves I am after.
hey if I coudl do it with planes it would be faster and cheaper.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Bruce Barnett wrote:
Steve knight writes:

never seen a plane that rounds corners over (G)

They cost ~$20. I have one. Fixed radius w/2 blades.

So - when can we expect a Knight Toolworks version? (G)

Steve-
please do consider making some corner treatment planes. I bought a
commercial one and used it for a while, but it fell apart. there is
definently room in the market for some good ones.

I made one that I'm pretty happy with for now- it's a roundover plane
with the blade sharpened as and set at a scraper angle- about2 or 3
degrees negative. it works real good on hard woods.... if you're
interested I'll put up a pic on ABPW.