 |
|
| Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
| Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
#1
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Slightly OT-Compressors
thanks--Bruce
William Noble wrote: your local electrical codes may vary - what I did was to run heavy wire to my garage - 8 gauge in fact - I have an old house that didn't have a master disconnect, so I replaced the breaker panel, added a 50 amp disconnect (2X50 amp breakers) and connected the house and the garage to the mains comming out of hte master breaker - so my garage has the same power as the house. cost was small, but I did it myself - I think the wire itself was the most expensive thing. If you run rigid conduit externally, use 1 inch conduit or even inch and a half, then burry it - that way it's up to all the codes and won't bother you by being obvious. "Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message ... I have thought about it, but I would have to get it there as the main is towards the other end of the house. ( the panel is in the middle of the house and the garage is on the other side of an enclosed car port, my office. Conduit would have to be run externally) I would like to have a sub panel as I run everything off a lighting circuit. Is there a rule of thumb as how big the sub-panel can be?? The main is 100 amp. I am guessing you would run your wires and terminate them with a 220 breaker like for an oven or cloths dryer. What the would be I don't know. Then the sub panel would have a main and then breakers for your 220 circuits or 110 circuits. The size of these would depend on the tools attached to them. Thanks for your input. Bruce William Noble wrote: unless it's really impossible, you should consider getting 220 to where your tools are - with 220 wire sizes are smaller, the load is better balanced, and you can get more HP when you need it. I do my own wiring, but unless the run is long (or you live where you just don't have 220) it should not be expensive to get 220 to your shop/garage - code permits it everywhere I've heard of, and if you do some prework even a real electrician should only charge for an hour or two of work "Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message ... Sept. 2006 American Woodworker has an article on choosing compact compressors and an article on plumbing your shop with hoses. I have been looking also and maybe one day I will get one. I have found that up to 26 to 30 gallon tanks are 110 VAC and above that is 220VAC. Now my shop doesn't have 220 and I don't see it in the future. I too have been looking at Lowes and Home Depot. I will keep in mind the 6-8 CMF at 90 PSI. Good info from everyone, thanks Bruce Teejay wrote: I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like framing or roofing. Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's sells? Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned with money (up to maybe $300) than reliability. Thanks, Tom in Howell, NJ |
| Reply |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Forum | |||
| Headphone works only when pulled out slightly | Electronics Repair | |||
| Slightly older Sears Craftsman lathe question | Woodturning | |||
| Slightly distorted picture. | Electronics Repair | |||
| TopCote - how is the metal surface supposed to be after treatment? mine is slightly sticky | Woodworking | |||
| Slightly O/T.. Lawnmower problem | UK diy | |||
Hybrid Mode
