Why is NIP pith not like all other piths? Ans. Because it is not always
the enemy. True, it's soft and ugly and doesn't make for a nice finial
peak or top of a knob, but it's reasonably near the center of the star
pattern. It seldom causes cracking and usually will be turned away in
hollowed forms and it is easily drilled out for table lamp cords, weed
pots and candle sticks.

My NIP blanks are turned end grain. The log is wet with LDD then
adjusted on a spur center to get the best star pattern possible and
roughed to round. Then it's put on a faceplate and not taken off until
it's finished. For table lamps I drill axially thru the soft pith and
radially across the base for the cord and I usually just center the
pith's openings at both ends and turn the solid form concentric to them.

I know I'm a small voice crying in the wilderness without friend or foot
fetish, but other than smoothing and slightly undercutting, I leave the
soles of end grain feet alone except for making them clean and neat for
signing. Is a cove any better than a filled screw hole to show the piece
was hand turned? My pieces aren't supposed to be 'vertical palindromes'
designed to be viewed upside down or downside up. They stand on their
feet so there's no need for the soles to compete with the rest of the
form. The feet don't always fit easily into a golden rectangular shoe or
any other plane geometry design aid, but of course, they aren't always
attractive either.

I've said it before. Failing to disguise all evidence of how the sole of
a turning's foot was held is a choice not a sin to be ashamed of.
Neither are the unadorned bottoms of classic fine china plates, ceramic
vases, and silver pitchers.

I've said it again. End of the same ole rant with blessed relief for
the ng ...at least til next time.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


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