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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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In the home stretch on Das Lathe Bench. Got the conflict
between the piano hinged debris chute and the shelf worked out, added a rosewood knob the the hinged dust chute so I don't have to push it up from under the bench and came up with a way to - put a lip on the back of the bench top to keep things I don't want falling off the back while having the option of sweeping / air blasting stuff I do want off the bench top - keep debris from falling on to my shelf below the bench top. Good thing I'm using the Build / Design As You Go Approach for this thing. I thought I'd worked out just about everything before I started building - but I knew an unforseen or two would pop up somewhere along the way. So here's the next two pages on Das Lathe Bench http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...thebench7.html As always, comments, suggestions, questions and constructive criticism are appreciated. charlie b |
#2
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Hi Charlie
Good idea using the sliding stop ledge/lip, but does not seem very user friendly if you have to loosen 4 knobs every time you want to clear the deck. Of course maybe one will do the job, still it's a clever setup, so you don't have to catch that falling skew with your shins. How long before you can start turning wood, life is short, GG Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo |
#3
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#4
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Hi Charlie
I lost you there, you are using t-nuts ???, seems like the wrong hardware for that application. http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,45375 A cross dowel would seem more appropriate, that way you could use longer threaded rod and a cam clamp would make for a real fast hold down. http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,45375 Also a set of this kind of bracket on the bottom end would make that more secure I think, http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...914,50427&ap=1 Just a thought. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo |
#5
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This is the cam clamp I was trying to get the link for.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,43576,52799 |
#6
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" wrote:
This is the cam clamp I was trying to get the link for. http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,43576,52799 These are very good. I have a couple pair of the Rockler version. |
#7
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wrote:
Hi Charlie I lost you there, you are using t-nuts ???, seems like the wrong hardware for that application. Well if you recess them - and then gorilla glue around the outside they don't pull out easily. And since I'm not going to have to really torque things down much they should be fine. A cross dowel would seem more appropriate, that way you could use longer threaded rod and a cam clamp would make for a real fast hold down. That page shows what I call a barrel nut - a section of steel rod with a threaded through hole through its side. If you've used them you know that the hole for the barrel bolt must be almost perfectly square to the hole for the bolt that is to thread into it. Be off a little and it's trouble in River City time. There's also the issue of holding the barrel nut at the right height and orientation relative to the bolt that's to thread into it. An earth magnet on the end of a dowel helps a lot for positioning and rotating the barrel nut down in the hole Bottom of the page - last two illustrations show a barrel nut application and the magnet on a dowel trick http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/CBbench22.html. In addition to all that, because the knob/bolt/cam levered bolt is down an inch from the top of the bench top, the hole for the barrel nut would have to be 2 3/4" deep in from the bottom. If I drilled in from the top of the bench top I'd have a nice holel - filled with debtris. I don't want to create things that trap crap. http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,45375 Also a set of this kind of bracket on the bottom end would make that more secure I think, http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...914,50427&ap=1 These flush mount clips - are a modified french cleat. Problem with them is that you have to attach the part that goes on the "lip" with wood screws. Only have 1/4" thick ply for the "lip". could use a nut and bolt or glue a screwing strip on the back. But it still leaves the back of the shelf to enclose to keep debris out, but open to allow debris to be blown out the back. The problem with the "flush" mount clips is that they aren't flush - that is to say that the two things being clipped together won't actually touch each other, leaving a gap - for debris to get into - something I'm trying to avoid. Just a thought. Thanks for the suggestions. Will keep the flush mount clips in mind for some future project. Might come in handy for securing the fireplace mantle that's on my to do list. Got the riser blocks for raising the lathe for underneath it clearance attached to the bench top and the lathe lag bolted to them. Glue some 80 grit to the end of the bench top to increase the grip when the bench sides are pulled into them with the nuts and all thread - and then it's "final" assembly time. I've got black and english walnut, apricot and almond ready to rough to round and all the tools are sharp and ready to go. Anxious to try the 1 1/4" skew. And now that I found and removed the plastic cup stuck in the blast gate of the dust collector drop next to Das Lathe Bench, clean up should be a breeze. Have fun and take care Ditto. charlie b |
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