Can you advise me on a good finish for a cup or mug, this is going to be for my self so the absolute food safe question won't need to apply here (though i don't want to posion myself).
I would like to be able to use it for hot drinks such as tea and coffee. Also as i ussually like to use a thin china mug i would like my drinking vessel thin so any finish would need to slow the transfer of liquid from in to outside.
Looking forward to your advise
Mark

Hi Mark

I do not use a wooden cup/mug, however maybe one of those day's I will.
I would not try to put on a finish, I would expect any finish you put
on wood to fail after a short or longer period, when using hot/cold
drinks, and then you would have coffee/tea or whatever under a finish
that's failing/flaking off etc., an oil finish would not fail but you
would be drinking it with every sip you take, might make for some
interesting combinations though, like walnut/coffee or green tea/tung,
G G.
I have a friend who always drinks his wine out of a wooden goblet and
has 2 one for red wine and one for white, more for the stain than the
taste he says, no finish on them.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum28.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Well if it were for Cold drinks I would say use parafin wax.
But hot drinks I dont know what I would use.
"Woodborg" wrote in message
...

Can you advise me on a good finish for a cup or mug, this is going to be
for my self so the absolute food safe question won't need to apply here
(though i don't want to posion myself).
I would like to be able to use it for hot drinks such as tea and
coffee. Also as i ussually like to use a thin china mug i would like my
drinking vessel thin so any finish would need to slow the transfer of
liquid from in to outside.
Looking forward to your advise
Mark


--
Woodborg

I agree with Leo 100%. I have S.A. friends who drink mate'. The cups
I've seen or made for them have never had any inside finish although
some of their cup's outsides are beautifully decorated with silver
inlays.

Thinking(?) outside the cup....how about a laminated cup with corian or
some other impervious material inside and wood outside? Shrink or swim,
I guess, but I remember some BATO (before art took over) vessels with
inserted mayo or spice jars & lids, even felt bottoms. Considered tacky
in some quarters now, but I used to make them without shame or apology.



Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Is there a type wood that could be better suited for a cup use for hot and
cold beverage?


"Arch" wrote in message
...
I agree with Leo 100%. I have S.A. friends who drink mate'. The cups
I've seen or made for them have never had any inside finish although
some of their cup's outsides are beautifully decorated with silver
inlays.

Thinking(?) outside the cup....how about a laminated cup with corian or
some other impervious material inside and wood outside? Shrink or swim,
I guess, but I remember some BATO (before art took over) vessels with
inserted mayo or spice jars & lids, even felt bottoms. Considered tacky
in some quarters now, but I used to make them without shame or apology.



Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

wrote in message
...
Is there a type wood that could be better suited for a cup use for hot and
cold beverage?


It's not the heat, it's the humidity. Nice close-grained woods are best.
Hard maple, beech, birch white oak are great choices. As you might have
noticed, there are wooden beverage containers out there already, most of
which are charred on the inside, and not just for flavoring the contents,
but because case-hardening the surface makes them less permeable.

Other than that, might want to try some CA or thinned epoxy for a full
plastic jacket.

I've heard and seen good things about Envirotex Lite for coating
drinking horns in the SCA.

http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm



On Sun, 19 Feb 2006 13:09:25 +0000, Woodborg
wrote:


Can you advise me on a good finish for a cup or mug, this is going to be
for my self so the absolute food safe question won't need to apply here
(though i don't want to posion myself).
I would like to be able to use it for hot drinks such as tea and
coffee. Also as i ussually like to use a thin china mug i would like my
drinking vessel thin so any finish would need to slow the transfer of
liquid from in to outside.
Looking forward to your advise
Mark

On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 00:41:40 GMT, "Steven Raphael"
wrote:

Can you advise me on a good finish for a cup or mug, this is going to be
for my self so the absolute food safe question won't need to apply here
(though i don't want to posion myself).
I would like to be able to use it for hot drinks such as tea and
coffee. Also as i ussually like to use a thin china mug i would like my
drinking vessel thin so any finish would need to slow the transfer of
liquid from in to outside.
Looking forward to your advise
Mark

Mark,

My server didn't pick up your original msg, so I'm replying to this
reply. I just made a coffee mug for my father for Christmas.
Stupidly, I made it of elm. If you've ever smelled fresh elm while
it's being cut...try to imagine elm soup! This was with several coats
of WaterLox and over a month of curing time. The elm was about 4
years old, and very dry, too.

Anyhow, to make a long story short, I applied 4 coats of ZipGard
water-based poly. My father has since drunk coffee out of it and said
that at first there was a slight plastic smell to it, but that has
since disippated. However, the next time I think I will just go with
maple, birch or even cherry, give it a couple of good coats of
WaterLox and let him enjoy it.

If you have it available to you, I would go with hard maple, birch,
white oak, cherry, beech...pretty much any "sweet" wood. You don't
even have to put a finish in it. Unless you use red oak, you won't
have any problems with leaking unless there are hidden defects in the
wood. I have successfully made a goblet for cold drinks out of red
oak, and sealed it with several coats of poly. That keeps the stuff
from pouring out the bottom!


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

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Hi Marie

I would not use red oak, G it would be leaky, but Dan Bollinger said
that Sycamore is a very good wood to use for treen, because it stands
up well against the wet/dry cycles, I know beech is used a lot for
kitchen utensils, and my friend uses butternut a lot for his goblets.
So I would think almost any hardwood, hard or not should work, except a
few like red oak.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Actually, many of the drinking horns have a bee's wax liner - I know
because I have 2 - I've never seen the Envirotex ones, I guess I'll
have to look closer.

"Chuck" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 00:41:40 GMT, "Steven Raphael"
wrote:

SNIP...........

If you have it available to you, I would go with hard maple, birch,
white oak, cherry, beech...pretty much any "sweet" wood. You don't
even have to put a finish in it. Unless you use red oak, you won't
have any problems with leaking unless there are hidden defects in the
wood. I have successfully made a goblet for cold drinks out of red
oak, and sealed it with several coats of poly. That keeps the stuff
from pouring out the bottom!

=================
Of course, you can always use red oak to make a goblet as a present for
someone you don't care for too much! :-)

Wouldn't you do the same for a drinking cup as you would a salad bowl? I am
assuming Room temp to Cold beverages. Nothing hot.

I have used tongue oil on mine. 3-6 coats. After a long curing period,
month, I soak them in one of my favorite alcoholic beverages. Most of my
cups are Mead Cups. Now for how long the coating will last, I am still
working on that.

Frank
NC