I have made a number of segmented bowls using a Ringmaster. This tool cuts
tapered rings from a flat piece of wood so that one fits exactly on another.
They are glued together and to the remaining disc and then sanded. The 1/2"
hole used to hold the board on the Ringmaster is filled with a plug. The
angle of taper depends on the wall thickness and board thickness, but is
usually about 27 degrees.

I just bought a lathe, and I would like to round the bottom of some of my
bowls. I'd like advice on how to hold them on the lathe and how to shape
the bottom. I am considering the following for bowls that I have completed:

1. Mount on lathe using Cole jaws to hold top.
2. Turn a shoulder on the bottom.
3. Reverse on lathe and hold with 4-jaw chuck.
4. Shape bottom.

For future bowls, I am considering the following so that I have more room
for turning:

1. Glue bottom to next ring.
2. Mount this assembly on lathe using Morse taper 1/2" threaded thingy.
3. Turn a shoulder on the bottom using parting tool.
4. Remove thingy and replace with 4-jaw chuck.
5. Mount assembly, and shape bottom.

I'd appreciate any comments and advice. I am particularly concerned with
blending the ring with the bottom. With my extremely limited lathe
experience, I can't figure out how to make the cut. I am considering a
round nose scraper.

On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 17:04:25 GMT, "Jim Staley"
wrote:

I just bought a lathe, and I would like to round the bottom of some of my
bowls. I'd like advice on how to hold them on the lathe and how to shape
the bottom. I am considering the following for bowls that I have completed:

1. Mount on lathe using Cole jaws to hold top.
2. Turn a shoulder on the bottom.
3. Reverse on lathe and hold with 4-jaw chuck.
4. Shape bottom.

What I do for bowls from split logs is the following:

1. saw off corners so the blank can spin freely
2. remove bark
3. set spur center on blank, and mount on lathe between centers
4. rough out blank and shape bottom contour of bowl.
5. get right next to the head or tail stock and cut a recess with the
parting tool on the top side of the bowl.
6. Mount blank on chuck, and shape the bottom of the bowl, including a
recess for remounting.
7. Sand bottom of bowl
8. Remount from the bottom of the bowl, and then hollow and sand.

(9. used to be finishing the piece, but I've switched to finishing off
the lathe to keep the ways from getting gummed up by flying shellac
and the like)

Ultimately, your method is up to you- everyone works a little
differently. I always kind of like the look of a nice recess on the
bottom of a bowl or hollow form, but some folks like it smooth, and
use a tenon or glue block instead. Either way, I've found it best to
begin between centers.

On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 17:04:25 GMT, "Jim Staley" wrote:

I have made a number of segmented bowls using a Ringmaster. This tool cuts
tapered rings from a flat piece of wood so that one fits exactly on another.
They are glued together and to the remaining disc and then sanded. The 1/2"
hole used to hold the board on the Ringmaster is filled with a plug. The
angle of taper depends on the wall thickness and board thickness, but is
usually about 27 degrees.

I just bought a lathe, and I would like to round the bottom of some of my
bowls. I'd like advice on how to hold them on the lathe and how to shape
the bottom. I am considering the following for bowls that I have completed:

1. Mount on lathe using Cole jaws to hold top.
2. Turn a shoulder on the bottom.
3. Reverse on lathe and hold with 4-jaw chuck.
4. Shape bottom.

For future bowls, I am considering the following so that I have more room
for turning:

1. Glue bottom to next ring.
2. Mount this assembly on lathe using Morse taper 1/2" threaded thingy.
3. Turn a shoulder on the bottom using parting tool.
4. Remove thingy and replace with 4-jaw chuck.
5. Mount assembly, and shape bottom.

I'd appreciate any comments and advice. I am particularly concerned with
blending the ring with the bottom. With my extremely limited lathe
experience, I can't figure out how to make the cut. I am considering a
round nose scraper.

depends on which, if any, chuck you're using..
I tried just about everything I could to avoid paying $80+ for the Jumbo Jaws
for my Oneway Talon... ring clamps, turners tape on faceplate or wood blank,
sock on chuck, etc....
After biting the bullet and getting the jaws, I realized in about 30 seconds
that, for me, I should have just got the jaws when I got the chuck...YMMV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 17:04:25 GMT, "Jim Staley"
wrote:

I have made a number of segmented bowls using a Ringmaster. This tool
cuts
tapered rings from a flat piece of wood so that one fits exactly on
another.
They are glued together and to the remaining disc and then sanded. The
1/2"
hole used to hold the board on the Ringmaster is filled with a plug. The
angle of taper depends on the wall thickness and board thickness, but is
usually about 27 degrees.

I just bought a lathe, and I would like to round the bottom of some of my
bowls. I'd like advice on how to hold them on the lathe and how to shape
the bottom. I am considering the following for bowls that I have
completed:

1. Mount on lathe using Cole jaws to hold top.
2. Turn a shoulder on the bottom.
3. Reverse on lathe and hold with 4-jaw chuck.
4. Shape bottom.

For future bowls, I am considering the following so that I have more room
for turning:

1. Glue bottom to next ring.
2. Mount this assembly on lathe using Morse taper 1/2" threaded thingy.
3. Turn a shoulder on the bottom using parting tool.
4. Remove thingy and replace with 4-jaw chuck.
5. Mount assembly, and shape bottom.

I'd appreciate any comments and advice. I am particularly concerned with
blending the ring with the bottom. With my extremely limited lathe
experience, I can't figure out how to make the cut. I am considering a
round nose scraper.

depends on which, if any, chuck you're using..
I tried just about everything I could to avoid paying $80+ for the Jumbo
Jaws
for my Oneway Talon... ring clamps, turners tape on faceplate or wood
blank,
sock on chuck, etc....
After biting the bullet and getting the jaws, I realized in about 30
seconds
that, for me, I should have just got the jaws when I got the chuck...YMMV


mac

Use a vacuum chuck. Find someone with the current issue of "Woodturning
Design" (if you are not a subscriber). There is a fine article in there
about building your own chucks, system, etc. for around $200. Once you use
it, you will never go to anything else.

Regards, James Johnson