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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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Corian Question
I'm replacing a cooktop and the new unit has a bracket that needs to be
secured to the countertop surface on the inside of the cutout. Can the bracket be screwed into corian, or does it need to be glued? If it can't be screwed, what kind of adhesive can be used to secure the metal bracket to the corian? TIA |
#2
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Corian installers have special adhesives they use, and when the bond,
they are permanent. As for screwing the bracket to the Corian, you would need plenty of thickness as the corian has little or no of the sufficient density (without thickness) to hold a screw well. Ask a kitchen top supply company for the adhesives. Robert |
#3
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#4
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What do you mean by "plenty of thickness"? The screws would have to go into the inside of the cutout (ie sideways into the cut portion). Hmmm... my biz is remodeling/repair. While it certainly doesn't mean that it doesn't exist, I have never seen a range top that that screws sideways into the thickness of the top. They have many arrangements like thumbscrews, clips, compression clamps, etc. that are installed from underneath and compress an installation ring or the actual top to the countertop as a means of attachment. If I understand you correctly, you are saying this: countertop attachment screw [----------------- { [ thickness of top [_________________ Yes? No? How thick is your top? Robert |
#6
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NEVER screw into solid surface unless you use a special brass insert.
And most definitively NEVER screw into it from the edge...it WILL crack. If a cook-top won't sit there on its own... you need another solution. The bottom clamps are also never used. The top and bottom of the cut-out must be sanded smooth and rounded over gently. The inside of the cook-top hole must be lined with aluminum heatsink-type tape and the inside corners must be relieved by a 1/2" x 1/2" over cut. Rob http://www.topworks.ca |
#7
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A quick check with the "solid surface" countertop guy reveals he has
had to do this with other applications. If you have the screw(s) they sent, then use them. If you are on your own, use a 2" screw (yup... 2" !) to connect. According to him, you MUST predrill to the correct size for your screw, and use a thick shank (#12s maybe?) pan head sheetmetal screw. Remember that your adhesive/sealer that you put around the top will also do a lot to hold the top in place. It sounds like this is some kind of retainer/trim ring to keep the top from falling through. And if I had a nickel for every "drop in" that didn't... Robert |
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See above post dated: Jul 27, 11:39 pm. Essentially, I agree with
your post, but I also understand that every single top is not engineered the same, making it impossible to think every installation is exactly the same. I do understand the point about Corian being Corian, though. If I am understanding him correctly, and I might not, he has something that is specifically designed/engineered and intended to be installed in this manner. It may take into account the heat shielding (as opposed to a heatsink which delibertately draws heat) into its design, and so therefore be designed to be installed as per their own supplied instructions. nospam wrote: There is a bracket that is screwed to each side, and then you drop in the cooktop and it snaps into it. The counter is 1 1/2" thick. Leave it to Gaggenau to invent something new and completely unnecessary If his instructions say to screw it into the sides, that is what they say. Apparently he read them. If this is the manufacturer's preferred or recommended or required way of installation, so be it. We know they do not take into all types of countertops, and probably have some great language in there excusing them from the process if you screw something up while following their instructions. Without being familiar with this brand of top and having no access to the actual appliance, the Gaggenau, I am not ready to be as decisive as Rob. I am not saying he is wrong by any means, but we obviously have some different experiences behind us on this issue. With that kind of thickness, I have had no problems using screws with a predrilled hole. My installer uses machine screws, and drills and taps as needed. His other weapon is using a helicoil , and is best described by Ken Dolph, who has written extensively on the issue of practical mechanical fastening and Corian: A helicoil looks like a spring. They are often used by mechanics to rethread stripped bolt holes. They are availible at most good auto part stores. Sometimes they will have clones as Helicoil is a brand name. They are used in industry to give soft materials an ability to hold machine threads. The common machine screw applies 90% of its force to the first thread. The Helicoil balances the force applying it more evenly across all threads. This reduces stripping. Helicoils come in kits. You buy them by the size screw you wish to use. The kit contains the proper size drill, a tap, and an installation tool. You drill and tap your piece then scres in this spring like thing. If it is a through hole you break offthe installation tab. They are not cheap but in Corian they are the only way to go. Brass inserts are useless. So another point of view. Note that we are back to the drill and tap mindset. It is important to understand that in context this is meant as a "once or twice" type thing, not as a regular and routine way of installation. He only uses mechanical attachment as a last choice. My guy simply glues the crap out of everything. Not trying in any way to start a flamewar here, but there is always more than one opinion and more than one way to do something. Robert |
#9
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