I just turned a natural edge bowl from a piece of red cedar. I wiped on a
coat of Minwax poly........then wiped off the excess. I let it dry
overnight. No problem. I sanded lightly with 320, then sprayed a couple of
light coats of the same finish. Its been at least 8 hours and its still
tacky. What gives? Is the oil in the wood preventing it from drying
properly? The humidity has been a bit high today. Maybe that's it.
Thanks.

Barry

"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
news
I just turned a natural edge bowl from a piece of red cedar. I wiped on a
coat of Minwax poly........then wiped off the excess. I let it dry
overnight. No problem. I sanded lightly with 320, then sprayed a couple
of
light coats of the same finish. Its been at least 8 hours and its still
tacky. What gives? Is the oil in the wood preventing it from drying
properly? The humidity has been a bit high today. Maybe that's it.
Thanks.


Western red, or eastern? Eastern has a lot more resin and oil in it. You
normally want to use a sealer like shellac or lacquer to keep the oils
(turps!) and resins from lifting your finish. Warm and dry may do for it,
but next time seal first with one of the two I mentioned.

Probably not related to your problem but...I've been having a devil of a
time getting Minwax wipe on poly to dry on a few pieces. The last two were
untreated ash and canarywood. I don't think it was too humid or cold in the
shop for it to set properly. I've since put the can in the back of the
finishing cupboard!

Tom

"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
news
I just turned a natural edge bowl from a piece of red cedar. I wiped on a
coat of Minwax poly........then wiped off the excess. I let it dry
overnight. No problem. I sanded lightly with 320, then sprayed a couple
of
light coats of the same finish. Its been at least 8 hours and its still
tacky. What gives? Is the oil in the wood preventing it from drying
properly? The humidity has been a bit high today. Maybe that's it.
Thanks.

Barry

This is not Wipe-on Poly; however, that's the way I am applying it. The
first coat anyway.......since it soaks in so quickly. The following coats
were sprayed on from a spray can. Same stuff though. I've never had a
problem before, even with Eastern Red Cedar. Thanks.

Barry


"Tom Storey" wrote in message
news:hHbje.1419619$8l.196013@pd7tw1no...
Probably not related to your problem but...I've been having a devil of a
time getting Minwax wipe on poly to dry on a few pieces. The last two were
untreated ash and canarywood. I don't think it was too humid or cold in
the
shop for it to set properly. I've since put the can in the back of the
finishing cupboard!

Tom

"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
news
I just turned a natural edge bowl from a piece of red cedar. I wiped on
a
coat of Minwax poly........then wiped off the excess. I let it dry
overnight. No problem. I sanded lightly with 320, then sprayed a
couple
of
light coats of the same finish. Its been at least 8 hours and its still
tacky. What gives? Is the oil in the wood preventing it from drying
properly? The humidity has been a bit high today. Maybe that's it.
Thanks.

Barry

I guess I should have thought of that. Would Deft work as a sealer? Maybe
I should have used Deft in the first place. I haven't had a problem in the
past. Thanks.

Barry


"George" george@least wrote in message
...

"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
news
I just turned a natural edge bowl from a piece of red cedar. I wiped on
a
coat of Minwax poly........then wiped off the excess. I let it dry
overnight. No problem. I sanded lightly with 320, then sprayed a
couple
of
light coats of the same finish. Its been at least 8 hours and its still
tacky. What gives? Is the oil in the wood preventing it from drying
properly? The humidity has been a bit high today. Maybe that's it.
Thanks.


Western red, or eastern? Eastern has a lot more resin and oil in it. You
normally want to use a sealer like shellac or lacquer to keep the oils
(turps!) and resins from lifting your finish. Warm and dry may do for it,
but next time seal first with one of the two I mentioned.

"Barry N. Turner" wrote in
news
I just turned a natural edge bowl from a piece of red cedar. I wiped
on a coat of Minwax poly........then wiped off the excess. I let it
dry overnight. No problem. I sanded lightly with 320, then sprayed a
couple of light coats of the same finish. Its been at least 8 hours
and its still tacky. What gives? Is the oil in the wood preventing
it from drying properly? The humidity has been a bit high today.
Maybe that's it. Thanks.


It's not likely the humidity. A lot of the cedars (and they vary quite
widely) have natural properties which cause finishes to refuse to cure.

I've had problems with Western Red Cedar and otherwise good spar varnish,
as well as all kinds of finishes used in blanket and 'treasure' chests,
with aromatic cedar 'closet lining' floors.

I don't have the answer for you, but thought I'd lead you to research the
right problem, perhaps.

I settled on wax, or left it unfinished (or opened and well ventilated, to
cure a 'neighboring finish'.

Patriarch

"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
...
I guess I should have thought of that. Would Deft work as a sealer?
Maybe
I should have used Deft in the first place. I haven't had a problem in
the
past. Thanks.

Barry

Deft Lacquer, surely.

I just gave up and stripped off the poly, sanded the bowl lightly and
applied a couple of coats of Deft. No problems..........bone dry within
minutes.

Barry


"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
"Barry N. Turner" wrote in
news
I just turned a natural edge bowl from a piece of red cedar. I wiped
on a coat of Minwax poly........then wiped off the excess. I let it
dry overnight. No problem. I sanded lightly with 320, then sprayed a
couple of light coats of the same finish. Its been at least 8 hours
and its still tacky. What gives? Is the oil in the wood preventing
it from drying properly? The humidity has been a bit high today.
Maybe that's it. Thanks.


It's not likely the humidity. A lot of the cedars (and they vary quite
widely) have natural properties which cause finishes to refuse to cure.

I've had problems with Western Red Cedar and otherwise good spar varnish,
as well as all kinds of finishes used in blanket and 'treasure' chests,
with aromatic cedar 'closet lining' floors.

I don't have the answer for you, but thought I'd lead you to research the
right problem, perhaps.

I settled on wax, or left it unfinished (or opened and well ventilated, to
cure a 'neighboring finish'.

Patriarch