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riverrat
 
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Default turning cedar

as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me
some cedar log approx. 4" to 6" diameter and 3' lengths. Is there anything
to be watchful of when turning cedar? Most of what i've turned are small
weed pots just for practice with w/the tools and some pens from kits from
PSI. I would appreciate any and all advise.
Thank you in advance.
George Klein
ps I'm turning on a small Wilton Mini lathe


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Glenn
 
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There are all types of cedar. The only type I have turned is the
eastern arromatic. It is kind of brittle, but it turns ok. It will
develop cracks as you look at it so get the CA handy. Some of it can
have some very beautiful grain patterns particularly down near the
ground. The shop will not have any moths for a few days.

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william kossack
 
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I've heard of respiratory problems with turning cedar.

I did a large flat bowl/tray constructed from a 4x4 fence post I got at
HD a couple years ago. I cut it into sections ran it through my planer
to get smooth edges for gluing and then glued the sections together with
gorilla glue. I turned it leaving a good inch or so of thickness in the
bottom and enough edge to catch any water (My wife uses it for a potted
plant that sits on stereo speakers.)

Then I sealed the inside with 2 part epoxi and finished the outside with
tung oil.

It has kept its color mostly because it is inside and doesn't get much sun.

riverrat wrote:
as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me
some cedar log approx. 4" to 6" diameter and 3' lengths. Is there anything
to be watchful of when turning cedar? Most of what i've turned are small
weed pots just for practice with w/the tools and some pens from kits from
PSI. I would appreciate any and all advise.
Thank you in advance.
George Klein
ps I'm turning on a small Wilton Mini lathe


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Ken Moon
 
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"riverrat" wrote in message
nk.net...
as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me
some cedar log approx. 4" to 6" diameter and 3' lengths. Is there anything
to be watchful of when turning cedar? Most of what i've turned are small
weed pots just for practice with w/the tools and some pens from kits from
PSI. I would appreciate any and all advise.
Thank you in advance.
George Klein
ps I'm turning on a small Wilton Mini lathe

===================

Hi,
I've turned some western red cedar. It is a lot like pine without the pitch
to gum everything up. It usually has a good grain figure with good contrast
between rings. There is enough difference between the summer and winter
growth hardness that you can feel it in your tool. The fast growth areas are
soft and will need SHARP tools and a light touch to prevent tear out. When
sanding, use a backing for your sandpaper to prevent uneven surfaces. SInce
it's free, just have at it and have fun.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.


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George
 
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"riverrat" wrote in message
nk.net...
as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me
some cedar log approx. 4" to 6" diameter and 3' lengths. Is there anything
to be watchful of when turning cedar? Most of what i've turned are small
weed pots just for practice with w/the tools and some pens from kits from
PSI. I would appreciate any and all advise.
Thank you in advance.
George Klein
ps I'm turning on a small Wilton Mini lathe



Two referenced western red, one eastern red. There are also a few others.
Interestingly, none are cedars.

Big thing is that they're all loaded with insecticide and fungicide, so you
really want to work in that well-ventilated area. Eastern white works like
western red or Port Orford. It's prone to jagged collapse of the harder
late growth into the softer early growth. You also want the lightest
possible bevel rub on this stuff, or you'll have an area of compression that
you'll have to use 100 grit on, even after setting up with water.

Eastern red, or "aromatic" is great stuff to work with. It's much more
consistent in composition, and so full of oil that a clean cut shines. I
really haven't observed the heat checking others report, but exercise
caution in your heat-building activities, and it shouldn't be
insurmountable.

None of them eagerly accept a finish, least of all eastern red. Lots of
resins and extractives to work back through a finish. I use shellac, and
that or lacquer, something which doesn't use turps as a thinner, would be
best. Traditional practice before resin-setting in kilns was to seal with
shellac prior to varnish.




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Ralph E Lindberg
 
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In article et,
"riverrat" wrote:

as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me
some cedar log approx. 4" to 6" diameter and 3' lengths. Is there anything
to be watchful of when turning cedar? Most of what i've turned are small
weed pots just for practice with w/the tools and some pens from kits from
PSI. I would appreciate any and all advise.
Thank you in advance.
George Klein
ps I'm turning on a small Wilton Mini lathe


There is also Alaskan Yellow Cedar, turns nicely. Often has very fine
grain (200 rings per inch)

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Kevin
 
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As has been mentioned there are several types. I found some in a parking
lot at our local Sam's Club. (free wood = good wood) about 10" dia and 30"
in length.. It was very well dried. Keep your tools sharp (you do that
anyway, right?) as the wood I got was rather soft. You may wish to wear some
dust mask cause the dust is rather fine when sanding. Very beautiful when
finished. I particuarly liked the bits of yellow that came through. Wish I
had some more.


"riverrat" wrote in message
nk.net...
as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me
some cedar log approx. 4" to 6" diameter and 3' lengths. Is there anything
to be watchful of when turning cedar? Most of what i've turned are small
weed pots just for practice with w/the tools and some pens from kits from
PSI. I would appreciate any and all advise.
Thank you in advance.
George Klein
ps I'm turning on a small Wilton Mini lathe




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Chuck
 
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On Thu, 12 May 2005 00:55:14 GMT, "riverrat"
wrote:

as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me
some cedar log approx. 4" to 6" diameter and 3' lengths. Is there anything
to be watchful of when turning cedar? Most of what i've turned are small
weed pots just for practice with w/the tools and some pens from kits from
PSI. I would appreciate any and all advise.


Can't speak for other types, but I've turned Spanish cedar, and if you
have occasion to turn some of this, you should absolutely wear a
dust mask during all phases of working it. This is the hands-down,
FUNKIEST- tasting wood I have ever turned!! UGH!! The dust is
downright nasty and will ruin everything you eat and drink for at
least a day.

--
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Owen Lowe
 
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In article , "George" george@least
wrote:

Two referenced western red, one eastern red. There are also a few others.
Interestingly, none are cedars.

Big thing is that they're all loaded with insecticide and fungicide, so you
really want to work in that well-ventilated area.


I believe I read that it was in the Pacific NW red cedar mills that the
carcinogenic risks of woodworking was first identified. The millworkers
were breathing a lot of airborne cedar dust.
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Barry N. Turner
 
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Yeah.............wear a mask. Barry


"riverrat" wrote in message
nk.net...
as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me
some cedar log approx. 4" to 6" diameter and 3' lengths. Is there anything
to be watchful of when turning cedar? Most of what i've turned are small
weed pots just for practice with w/the tools and some pens from kits from
PSI. I would appreciate any and all advise.
Thank you in advance.
George Klein
ps I'm turning on a small Wilton Mini lathe






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