"riverrat" wrote in message
nk.net...
as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me
some cedar log approx. 4" to 6" diameter and 3' lengths. Is there anything
to be watchful of when turning cedar? Most of what i've turned are small
weed pots just for practice with w/the tools and some pens from kits from
PSI. I would appreciate any and all advise.
Thank you in advance.
George Klein
ps I'm turning on a small Wilton Mini lathe



Two referenced western red, one eastern red. There are also a few others.
Interestingly, none are cedars.

Big thing is that they're all loaded with insecticide and fungicide, so you
really want to work in that well-ventilated area. Eastern white works like
western red or Port Orford. It's prone to jagged collapse of the harder
late growth into the softer early growth. You also want the lightest
possible bevel rub on this stuff, or you'll have an area of compression that
you'll have to use 100 grit on, even after setting up with water.

Eastern red, or "aromatic" is great stuff to work with. It's much more
consistent in composition, and so full of oil that a clean cut shines. I
really haven't observed the heat checking others report, but exercise
caution in your heat-building activities, and it shouldn't be
insurmountable.

None of them eagerly accept a finish, least of all eastern red. Lots of
resins and extractives to work back through a finish. I use shellac, and
that or lacquer, something which doesn't use turps as a thinner, would be
best. Traditional practice before resin-setting in kilns was to seal with
shellac prior to varnish.