I need to move a central heating pipe a few feet and wanted to check
that I'd be doing the correct thing if I attempt it myself. The pipe
runs from the upstairs boiler, under the bedroom floor and down the
gap between the masonry and plasterboard of a dry lined wall to the
radiator downstairs. I've attempted to lift the floorboards in the
bedroom but unfortunatly, they are 7 foot tongue and groove boards and
short of cutting through them, getting them up will be a nightmare
(last board installed and skirting board is fitted over the top of
it). The alternative I've thought of is to cut a hole in the
plasterboard wall downstairs, cut the pipe near the top (will have to
be with a hack saw as it will be too close to the masonry to use a
pipe cutter), put an elbow joint in and connect pipe off at a 90degree
angle to the current position, then another elbow down and another
across, join back up to the original pipe at the bottom using another
elbow, ie

Current
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New
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I had planned on using pre-soldered joints to do this and the
plasterwork shouldn't be a problem as the work going on which has
caused this will hopefully repair it. Obviously, I need to drain the
system first, deburr the pipes and clip the pipe to the wall. Will
the pipes be dry enough to solder?

The exposed pipe to the radiator is 10mm microbore, but looking at the
hot water tank, it's fed by 15mm, so presumably there is a 15-10
converter somewhere down the line, I've assumed this is going to be
close to the point at which the microbore exits the wall and joins to
the radiator. I assume it's the pipe down from the boiler to the
radiator as the valve is on that side of the radiator.

Any problems with this approach? Tips appreciated.

Thanks in advance

On 29 Mar 2005 05:36:18 -0800, (Rob Morgan)
wrote:

I need to move a central heating pipe a few feet and wanted to check
that I'd be doing the correct thing if I attempt it myself. The pipe
runs from the upstairs boiler, under the bedroom floor and down the
gap between the masonry and plasterboard of a dry lined wall to the
radiator downstairs. I've attempted to lift the floorboards in the
Its difficult to visualise what is required but i'd say its easier to
lift floorboards than hack and repair plasterboards. With the right
tools and skills,its easy to lift boards with no damage and replace
them so that they are fine,

joe

"Rob Morgan" wrote in message
m...
I need to move a central heating pipe a few feet and wanted to check
that I'd be doing the correct thing if I attempt it myself. The pipe
runs from the upstairs boiler, under the bedroom floor and down the
gap between the masonry and plasterboard of a dry lined wall to the
radiator downstairs. I've attempted to lift the floorboards in the
bedroom but unfortunatly, they are 7 foot tongue and groove boards and
short of cutting through them, getting them up will be a nightmare
(last board installed and skirting board is fitted over the top of
it).

There is a tool called an electricians skate, for breaking the tongue off
T&G,
or a tenon saw would work. If the end of a board goes under a skirting
board you can get it out by lifting the other end through nearly 90 degrees.

The alternative I've thought of is to cut a hole in the
plasterboard wall downstairs, cut the pipe near the top (will have to
be with a hack saw as it will be too close to the masonry to use a
pipe cutter), put an elbow joint in and connect pipe off at a 90degree
angle to the current position, then another elbow down and another
across, join back up to the original pipe at the bottom using another
elbow, ie

Current
|
|
|
|
|
|


New
|
-----
|
----|
|

I had planned on using pre-soldered joints to do this and the
plasterwork shouldn't be a problem as the work going on which has
caused this will hopefully repair it. Obviously, I need to drain the
system first, deburr the pipes and clip the pipe to the wall. Will
the pipes be dry enough to solder?

If the pipe is vertical it will be dry enough to solder once drained.

The exposed pipe to the radiator is 10mm microbore, but looking at the
hot water tank, it's fed by 15mm, so presumably there is a 15-10
converter somewhere down the line, I've assumed this is going to be
close to the point at which the microbore exits the wall and joins to
the radiator. I assume it's the pipe down from the boiler to the
radiator as the valve is on that side of the radiator.

Any problems with this approach? Tips appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Thanks, I've opted for holes in the wall, since I would have to put
some in even if I lifted the floorboards and hopefully the builder
who's doing the rest of the work will be able to replaster those bits
too. A plumber friend of a friend has recommended push fit joints
rather than attempting to solder, just in case there's still moisture
in the pipes which could cause steam and interfere with the solder.

Thanks again.