I am looking to put an extraction fan into my bathroom. i am looking at
something along the lines of :

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/produc...74&paintCatId=

I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two questions

a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan
b) ignoring a) - would you wire it to the light ring or into the power
ring - and thus how would you trigger it?

"Rob Convery" wrote in message
...
I am looking to put an extraction fan into my bathroom. i am looking at
something along the lines of :


http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/produc...74&paintCatId=

I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two questions

a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan
b) ignoring a) - would you wire it to the light ring or into the power
ring - and thus how would you trigger it?

Sorry, I don't know the answers, but if I may be so bold, I'd like to tag on
a question to this thread.
I fitted one of these a while back and have a separate pull cord.
As the extracting abiliites of these are quite poor, if you were to add
another fan (using the same ducting), would it be better in series or
parallel?

In article , Grumps
writes
"Rob Convery" wrote in message
...
I am looking to put an extraction fan into my bathroom. i am looking at
something along the lines of :


http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/produc...0360&entryFlag
=false&PRODID=186174&paintCatId=

I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two questions

a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan
b) ignoring a) - would you wire it to the light ring or into the power
ring - and thus how would you trigger it?

a) Yes I think so
b) It has a permanent live feed from the lighting "ring" and a switched
live feed from the light switch. You need to connect it through a
special fan isolator switch.


Sorry, I don't know the answers, but if I may be so bold, I'd like to tag on
a question to this thread.
I fitted one of these a while back and have a separate pull cord.
As the extracting abiliites of these are quite poor, if you were to add
another fan (using the same ducting), would it be better in series or
parallel?
Uh? Do you mean electrically (answer is parallel, of course, or it will
only get 110 volts) or are you talking about putting 2 in line in the
ducting (which would be a waste of time, the same amount of air would be
moved)
--
Tim Mitchell

"Tim Mitchell" wrote in message
news
a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan
b) ignoring a) - would you wire it to the light ring or into the power
ring - and thus how would you trigger it?

a) Yes I think so
b) It has a permanent live feed from the lighting "ring" and a switched
live feed from the light switch. You need to connect it through a special
fan isolator switch.


Cheers as expected.

Rob Convery wrote:
I am looking to put an extraction fan into my bathroom. i am looking at
something along the lines of :
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/produc...74&paintCatId=
I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two questions
a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan

It would do if you're in England and Wales and hadn't started the job
before 1st January.

b) ignoring a) - would you wire it to the light ring or into the power
ring - and thus how would you trigger it?

Lighting circuit.

I am offline so have not looked at the specific fan. Assuming you have
standard loop-in at the ceiling rose lighting wiring and this is a fan
with timer over-run, you just take a length of triple-and-earth from the
ceiling rose to a triple-pole fan isolator switch, and from the switch
to the fan.

CEILING ROSE FAN
Live (loop through) Live
Switched live (lamp) Trigger
Neutral (lamp & loop) Neutral
Earth Earth

Even if the fan is double insulated you must run the earth. Park it in a
convenient piece of 'choc block' at the fan if there isn't a terminal.

The fan isolator switch can go in the bathroom if permitted by the Zones
(check IEE regs or on-site guide or update on IEE website) or outside
the bathroom.

Owain

"Tim Mitchell" wrote in message
news
In article , Grumps
writes
"Rob Convery" wrote in message
...
I am looking to put an extraction fan into my bathroom. i am looking at
something along the lines of :


http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/produc...0360&entryFlag
=false&PRODID=186174&paintCatId=

I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two
questions

a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan
b) ignoring a) - would you wire it to the light ring or into the power
ring - and thus how would you trigger it?

a) Yes I think so
b) It has a permanent live feed from the lighting "ring" and a switched
live feed from the light switch. You need to connect it through a
special fan isolator switch.


Sorry, I don't know the answers, but if I may be so bold, I'd like to tag
on
a question to this thread.
I fitted one of these a while back and have a separate pull cord.
As the extracting abiliites of these are quite poor, if you were to add
another fan (using the same ducting), would it be better in series or
parallel?

Uh? Do you mean electrically (answer is parallel, of course, or it will
only get 110 volts) or are you talking about putting 2 in line in the
ducting (which would be a waste of time, the same amount of air would be
moved)

Two in the same ducting.
My instinct tells me that there would be some improvement by using two
(either in series or parallel), but I'll bow to your greater knowledge.

In article , Grumps
writes
Sorry, I don't know the answers, but if I may be so bold, I'd like to tag
on
a question to this thread.
I fitted one of these a while back and have a separate pull cord.
As the extracting abiliites of these are quite poor, if you were to add
another fan (using the same ducting), would it be better in series or
parallel?

Uh? Do you mean electrically (answer is parallel, of course, or it will
only get 110 volts) or are you talking about putting 2 in line in the
ducting (which would be a waste of time, the same amount of air would be
moved)

Two in the same ducting.
My instinct tells me that there would be some improvement by using two
(either in series or parallel), but I'll bow to your greater knowledge.

I'm not sure what you mean by series or parallel.

If you had a really long piece of ducting you might benefit by putting
one at each end.

I don't see how you could put them in "parallel" using one piece of
ducting
--
Tim Mitchell

"Owain" wrote in message
...
Rob Convery wrote:
I am looking to put an extraction fan into my bathroom. i am looking at
something along the lines of :

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/produc...74&paintCatId=
I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two
questions
a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan

It would do if you're in England and Wales and hadn't started the job
before 1st January.

Is there a time limit before completion of these jobs?

Adam

You can buy adaptors for splitting ducting into 2 pipes and then you could
have another adaptor for putting it all back into 1 pipe! I thought about
it myself as the ceiling fans don't have much go in them. anyone know why
they can't make theem more powerfull?....there must be some reason as they
all seem to stop at about 80L/h
"Tim Mitchell" wrote in message
...
In article , Grumps
writes
Sorry, I don't know the answers, but if I may be so bold, I'd like to
tag
on
a question to this thread.
I fitted one of these a while back and have a separate pull cord.
As the extracting abiliites of these are quite poor, if you were to
add
another fan (using the same ducting), would it be better in series or
parallel?

Uh? Do you mean electrically (answer is parallel, of course, or it will
only get 110 volts) or are you talking about putting 2 in line in the
ducting (which would be a waste of time, the same amount of air would
be
moved)

Two in the same ducting.
My instinct tells me that there would be some improvement by using two
(either in series or parallel), but I'll bow to your greater knowledge.

I'm not sure what you mean by series or parallel.

If you had a really long piece of ducting you might benefit by putting
one at each end.

I don't see how you could put them in "parallel" using one piece of
ducting
--
Tim Mitchell

"Tim Mitchell" wrote in message
...
In article , Grumps
writes
Sorry, I don't know the answers, but if I may be so bold, I'd like to
tag
on
a question to this thread.
I fitted one of these a while back and have a separate pull cord.
As the extracting abiliites of these are quite poor, if you were to
add
another fan (using the same ducting), would it be better in series or
parallel?

Uh? Do you mean electrically (answer is parallel, of course, or it will
only get 110 volts) or are you talking about putting 2 in line in the
ducting (which would be a waste of time, the same amount of air would
be
moved)

Two in the same ducting.
My instinct tells me that there would be some improvement by using two
(either in series or parallel), but I'll bow to your greater knowledge.

I'm not sure what you mean by series or parallel.

If you had a really long piece of ducting you might benefit by putting
one at each end.

That's what I'd call in series.

I don't see how you could put them in "parallel" using one piece of
ducting

No, my bad. As Geoff says, you can buy splitters.

After serious thinking Geoff Norfolk wrote :
You can buy adaptors for splitting ducting into 2 pipes and then you could
have another adaptor for putting it all back into 1 pipe! I thought about
it myself as the ceiling fans don't have much go in them. anyone know why
they can't make theem more powerfull?....there must be some reason as they
all seem to stop at about 80L/h

Why bother with adaptors?

Just get a proper single ducted fan of what ever size you need.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org

! I thought about
it myself as the ceiling fans don't have much go in them. anyone know why
they can't make theem more powerfull?....there must be some reason as they
all seem to stop at about 80L/h

I think the problem is noise. I have a very powerful centrifugal kitchen
extractor in a copper hood (MFI 15 years ago), which I just measured as
drawing 0.7 amps. It drowns out the kitchen TV. Think of a tube train
leaving the station on the underground and you get a good impression.

Grumps wrote:

Sorry, I don't know the answers, but if I may be so bold, I'd like to tag on
a question to this thread.
I fitted one of these a while back and have a separate pull cord.
As the extracting abiliites of these are quite poor, if you were to add
another fan (using the same ducting), would it be better in series or
parallel?

From my experience of extractor fans, I have found they are completely
useless (well, nearly useless) if the door is reasonably well fitting.
I found I need to put some form of inward ventilation (door grill or
something) to allow free flowing air passage through bathroom and thus fan.


--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK.
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http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers.
http://gymratz.co.uk/hot-seat.htm - Live web-cam! (sometimes)

ARWadsworth wrote:
"Owain" wrote in message
...

a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan

It would do if you're in England and Wales and hadn't started the job
before 1st January.


Is there a time limit before completion of these jobs?

End of March I believe; and I'm not going to make it with my current
project :-(

David

"Rob Convery" wrote in message
...
I am looking to put an extraction fan into my bathroom. i am looking at
something along the lines of :


http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/produc...&entryFlag=fal
se&PRODID=186174&paintCatId=

I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two questions

a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan


Although it is supposed to be covered, I believe you can avoid it if the
light switch is one of those outside the bathroom, i.e. not a pull cord. By
fitting an in-line fan in the roofspace that sucks through a pipe and grill,
there will be no electrical changes in the bathroom and hence it is okay to
change without building control approval.

Well that's my theory anyway :-)

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
k...
a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan

It would do if you're in England and Wales and hadn't started the job
before 1st January.

Is there a time limit before completion of these jobs?


In theory April 1st but I think this would fail in any court on the ground
of unreasonableness.

ARWadsworth wrote:
a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan
It would do if you're in England and Wales and hadn't started the job
before 1st January.
Is there a time limit before completion of these jobs?

End of March AIUI.

Of course if all your invoices for bits are dated before end of March,
who could prove otherwise (cough, cough)

Owain

"Mike" wrote in message
...

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
k...
a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan

It would do if you're in England and Wales and hadn't started the job
before 1st January.

Is there a time limit before completion of these jobs?


In theory April 1st but I think this would fail in any court on the ground
of unreasonableness.

My kitchen rewiring project was started in 1993 but remain not totally
complete. Would that count :-)

"John" wrote in message
...
a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan

It would do if you're in England and Wales and hadn't started the job
before 1st January.

Is there a time limit before completion of these jobs?


In theory April 1st but I think this would fail in any court on the
ground
of unreasonableness.

My kitchen rewiring project was started in 1993 but remain not totally
complete. Would that count :-)

I'd be more concerned as to whether your wife thinks that long is reasonable
:-)

In message , John
writes

"Mike" wrote in message
...

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
k...
a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan

It would do if you're in England and Wales and hadn't started the job
before 1st January.

Is there a time limit before completion of these jobs?


In theory April 1st but I think this would fail in any court on the ground
of unreasonableness.

My kitchen rewiring project was started in 1993 but remain not totally
complete. Would that count :-)

My house wiring project started 18 years ago (that long ??)

It's a sort of ongoing thing, all planned , of course, before the turn
of the year

I asked a while ago, but I'll ask again,

who is responsible for policing part P ?

--
geoff

Mike wrote:
"John" wrote
In theory April 1st but I think this would fail in any court on the
ground of unreasonableness.
My kitchen rewiring project was started in 1993 but remain not totally
complete. Would that count :-)
I'd be more concerned as to whether your wife thinks that long is reasonable
:-)

No judge would ever dare reach a verdict other than that a man's wife
was the ultimate test of reasonableness :-)

Owain

raden wrote:
I asked a while ago, but I'll ask again,
who is responsible for policing part P ?

The solicitor acting for the prospective purchaser of your house.

Owain

In message , Owain
writes
raden wrote:
I asked a while ago, but I'll ask again,
who is responsible for policing part P ?

The solicitor acting for the prospective purchaser of your house.

Ah, Ta

So, it's not actually illegal to do major wiring projects on your house
until you come to sell it ?


--
geoff

raden wrote:
who is responsible for policing part P ?
The solicitor acting for the prospective purchaser of your house.
So, it's not actually illegal to do major wiring projects on your house
until you come to sell it ?

The illegality occurs at the time the act is committed.

But until Screwfix start demanding customers' biomentric ID cards for
cross-referencing against the NICEIC membership registers, there is no
effective policing of the legislation.

Owain

In message , Owain
writes
raden wrote:
who is responsible for policing part P ?
The solicitor acting for the prospective purchaser of your house.
So, it's not actually illegal to do major wiring projects on your
house until you come to sell it ?

The illegality occurs at the time the act is committed.

Which is then, totally untraceable until you come to sell


But until Screwfix start demanding customers' biomentric ID cards for
cross-referencing against the NICEIC membership registers, there is no
effective policing of the legislation.

I've never used Screwfix

Personally, I'd rather use local suppliers - cheaper and immediate for
most things

--
geoff

On Sat, 19 Mar 2005 01:39:22 GMT, raden wrote:

In message , Owain
writes
raden wrote:
who is responsible for policing part P ?
The solicitor acting for the prospective purchaser of your house.
So, it's not actually illegal to do major wiring projects on your
house until you come to sell it ?

The illegality occurs at the time the act is committed.

Which is then, totally untraceable until you come to sell

....which basically sums up in a nutshell why it is such a farce from a
diy perspective. The foolish and incompetant diyers will continue to
do dangerous things with their electrics, blissfully unaware of part P
(or else just ignoring it) and unless they sell, the first anyone will
know is if disaster happens.

However, the wise and competent (those that find out the correct and
safe way to do things and execute it well and who know their
limitations), are the ones worrying about part P compliance.

Nice one Mr Prescott!

David