I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white paint,
using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width
sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous floor
to ceiling strokes. Each section slightly overlapped the preceding
section. I am pleased with the finish although when I place a lamp at
one end of the wall and look along it from the other end I can see
vertical lines where the paint slightly overlapped between sections.

What I'd like to know is - is this avoidable? I think my technique is OK
and I seemed to be keeping a wet edge at all times. Maybe a different
type of paint would help? My wife thinks I'm mad because it looks great
apart from when the light is shining at a shallow angle, but I just want
to do a good job. If the overlap marks are always going to be visible
under these circumstances, then fine, I will happily move on and finish
the room but I'd like to know if anyone knows how to avoid this. Maybe
I'm just too fussy?

"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
...
I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white paint,
using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width
sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous floor
to ceiling strokes. Each section slightly overlapped the preceding
section. I am pleased with the finish although when I place a lamp at
one end of the wall and look along it from the other end I can see
vertical lines where the paint slightly overlapped between sections.

What I'd like to know is - is this avoidable? I think my technique is OK
and I seemed to be keeping a wet edge at all times. Maybe a different
type of paint would help? My wife thinks I'm mad because it looks great
apart from when the light is shining at a shallow angle, but I just want
to do a good job. If the overlap marks are always going to be visible
under these circumstances, then fine, I will happily move on and finish
the room but I'd like to know if anyone knows how to avoid this. Maybe
I'm just too fussy?

You don't say how many coats you used, the implication being only one. You
would need two coats to avoid the problem. In addition you should use a
combination of horizontal and vertical strokes, finishing with light
vertical strokes if you wish, feathering the edge of each section as you go
(ie not leaving a clear edge).


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Bob Mannix wrote:
"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
...

I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white paint,
using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width
sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous floor
to ceiling strokes. Each section slightly overlapped the preceding
section. I am pleased with the finish although when I place a lamp at
one end of the wall and look along it from the other end I can see
vertical lines where the paint slightly overlapped between sections.

What I'd like to know is - is this avoidable? I think my technique is OK
and I seemed to be keeping a wet edge at all times. Maybe a different
type of paint would help? My wife thinks I'm mad because it looks great
apart from when the light is shining at a shallow angle, but I just want
to do a good job. If the overlap marks are always going to be visible
under these circumstances, then fine, I will happily move on and finish
the room but I'd like to know if anyone knows how to avoid this. Maybe
I'm just too fussy?


You don't say how many coats you used, the implication being only one. You
would need two coats to avoid the problem. In addition you should use a
combination of horizontal and vertical strokes, finishing with light
vertical strokes if you wish, feathering the edge of each section as you go
(ie not leaving a clear edge).



Thanks for your advice. The wall in question has recently been
replastered and I have done one coat with thinned "new plaster" paint
and a second coat with unthinned paint. Do you think another coat will
help me get a better finish?

I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white paint,
using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width
sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous floor
to ceiling strokes.

Personally, I use random rolling to avoid any patterns. I also use high
quality trade paint, which usually covers better than the consumer versions.

There is no hint of strange markings, even though I have only the sealing
coat (in white) and a coat and a half of the colour. I usually intend to do
2 full coats, but the trade paint is so good that I can't often see the
point, except in occasional spots.

BTW, I don't paint in sections. I cut in first and then roller the whole
wall. I find I can roller an entire wall in about 2-3 minutes, working
rapidly with a roller on a telescopic pole and standing 2m back from the
wall.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white paint,
using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width
sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous floor
to ceiling strokes.


Personally, I use random rolling to avoid any patterns. I also use high
quality trade paint, which usually covers better than the consumer versions.

There is no hint of strange markings, even though I have only the sealing
coat (in white) and a coat and a half of the colour. I usually intend to do
2 full coats, but the trade paint is so good that I can't often see the
point, except in occasional spots.

BTW, I don't paint in sections. I cut in first and then roller the whole
wall. I find I can roller an entire wall in about 2-3 minutes, working
rapidly with a roller on a telescopic pole and standing 2m back from the
wall.

Christian.



2-3 minutes?! Maybe I'm just going too slowly and the paint is drying
too much - it took me an hour to do my (10 metre long) wall!

"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
...
Bob Mannix wrote:
"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
...

I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white paint,
using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width
sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous floor
to ceiling strokes. Each section slightly overlapped the preceding
section. I am pleased with the finish although when I place a lamp at
one end of the wall and look along it from the other end I can see
vertical lines where the paint slightly overlapped between sections.

What I'd like to know is - is this avoidable? I think my technique is OK
and I seemed to be keeping a wet edge at all times. Maybe a different
type of paint would help? My wife thinks I'm mad because it looks great
apart from when the light is shining at a shallow angle, but I just want
to do a good job. If the overlap marks are always going to be visible
under these circumstances, then fine, I will happily move on and finish
the room but I'd like to know if anyone knows how to avoid this. Maybe
I'm just too fussy?


You don't say how many coats you used, the implication being only one.
You
would need two coats to avoid the problem. In addition you should use a
combination of horizontal and vertical strokes, finishing with light
vertical strokes if you wish, feathering the edge of each section as you
go
(ie not leaving a clear edge).



Thanks for your advice. The wall in question has recently been
replastered and I have done one coat with thinned "new plaster" paint
and a second coat with unthinned paint. Do you think another coat will
help me get a better finish?

Yes, I wasn't counting a "new plaster" coat which you have done as I would.
Do make sure (as the other poster has also said) you randomise the rolling.
It's a matter of personal preference how you do this. I ten to think of a
square I am going to fill and then roll diagonals, zig-zags, etc, finishing
with light pressure horizontals and very light verticals, always making sure
the new edge is feathered rather than defined.

If you don't do another coat it will always annoy you (even if no-one else
notices - the price of DIY)!


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
...
Christian McArdle wrote:
I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white paint,
using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width
sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous floor
to ceiling strokes.


Personally, I use random rolling to avoid any patterns. I also use high
quality trade paint, which usually covers better than the consumer
versions.

There is no hint of strange markings, even though I have only the
sealing
coat (in white) and a coat and a half of the colour. I usually intend to
do
2 full coats, but the trade paint is so good that I can't often see the
point, except in occasional spots.

BTW, I don't paint in sections. I cut in first and then roller the whole
wall. I find I can roller an entire wall in about 2-3 minutes, working
rapidly with a roller on a telescopic pole and standing 2m back from the
wall.

Christian.



2-3 minutes?! Maybe I'm just going too slowly and the paint is drying
too much - it took me an hour to do my (10 metre long) wall!

Don't worry - he's a show-off ;o) . Having said that, it is true the less
sections dry before you overpaint the adjoining one, the better. Christian
may be using an automatic feed roller - if not he has to be doing it in
"sections" as he has to stop to put more paint on and that defines the
section.

It is most important in decorating to go at your own pace and not someone
elses! I NEVER consider having anyone pasting while I am hanging paper, it
would drive me mad. Get everyone out the house, get the radio on and do it
at your pace.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

2-3 minutes?! Maybe I'm just going too slowly and the paint is drying
too much - it took me an hour to do my (10 metre long) wall!

The cutting in takes longer, though. Maybe 10-15 minutes to do all the
corners and up to the skirting/cornice/architrave per wall.

One coat of paint for an entire room takes 45 minutes to an hour, excluding
the ceiling.

Christian.

2-3 minutes?! Maybe I'm just going too slowly and the paint is drying
too much - it took me an hour to do my (10 metre long) wall!

Don't worry - he's a show-off ;o)

Nah. Quite the opposite, it's just that I can only afford a house with small
rooms!

Christian.

Bob Mannix wrote:
If you don't do another coat it will always annoy you (even if no-one else
notices - the price of DIY)!



Or I could cock up the second coat as well!

Thanks, Bob and Christian, for your advice - I'll do a second coat at
the weekend.

Cheers,
Grant

"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
...
Bob Mannix wrote:
If you don't do another coat it will always annoy you (even if no-one
else
notices - the price of DIY)!



Or I could cock up the second coat as well!

Thanks, Bob and Christian, for your advice - I'll do a second coat at
the weekend.


If you want a laugh, a long time ago I painted my name and my wife's name
(aaaah) on the new dining room plaster wall after ceiling coats to dry the
roller.

You could still see it at low angles after MANY coats of paint (grrr.)

Bob

In article , Grant Fitzgerald gfitzger@
nospam_hotmail.com writes
Bob Mannix wrote:
If you don't do another coat it will always annoy you (even if no-one else
notices - the price of DIY)!

Or I could cock up the second coat as well!

Thanks, Bob and Christian, for your advice - I'll do a second coat at
the weekend.

Turning down the central heating (and off in the room your painting) will give
you a longer working time. Keeping a wet edge is def the trick but contrary
to some others I've never done anything but up and down strokes.
--
fred

fred wrote:

Turning down the central heating (and off in the room your painting) will give
you a longer working time. Keeping a wet edge is def the trick but contrary
to some others I've never done anything but up and down strokes.

The central heating was off (and the radiator in the room I'm painting
is off the wall just now anyway). There is a door into the garden from
this room which I had open to get the temperature down as well (although
now I'm thinking that a draft into the room may have been helping the
paint to dry more quickly?). Another problem might be that the wall
opposite the painted one is almost entirely window and it was quite a
sunny day...

Grant Fitzgerald wrote:
Christian McArdle wrote:
I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white
paint,
using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width
sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous
floor
to ceiling strokes.

BTW, I don't paint in sections. I cut in first and then roller the
whole
wall. I find I can roller an entire wall in about 2-3 minutes,
working
rapidly with a roller on a telescopic pole and standing 2m back
from the
wall.

2-3 minutes?! Maybe I'm just going too slowly and the paint is drying

too much - it took me an hour to do my (10 metre long) wall!

Heh Heh,

You're not alone. Took me ages to do my wall with Dulux Once (as it
needed to be done twice

Cheers,

Paul.

"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
...
I have just finished painting a wall with Dulux Rich Matt white paint,
using a roller. I painted from ceiling to floor in 2-3 roller width
sections and finished each section by back-rolling with continuous floor to
ceiling strokes. Each section slightly overlapped the preceding section. I
am pleased with the finish although when I place a lamp at one end of the
wall and look along it from the other end I can see vertical lines where
the paint slightly overlapped between sections.

What I'd like to know is - is this avoidable? I think my technique is OK
and I seemed to be keeping a wet edge at all times. Maybe a different type
of paint would help? My wife thinks I'm mad because it looks great apart
from when the light is shining at a shallow angle, but I just want to do a
good job. If the overlap marks are always going to be visible under these
circumstances, then fine, I will happily move on and finish the room but
I'd like to know if anyone knows how to avoid this. Maybe I'm just too
fussy?
Try another brand. I've had nothing but trouble with Dulux emulsion over the
last couple of years. IMO Crown is a better consistency and dries like paint
should. Dulux behaves like someone's stirred a bag of plaster into it.

Try another brand. I've had nothing but trouble with Dulux emulsion over
the
last couple of years.

I've had no trouble with Dulux Trade and used Supermatt and standard Vinyl
Matt. In fact, it was lovely paint to work with.

I'd use Supermatt on new plaster and standard on old.

Christian.

In message , Christian
McArdle writes
Try another brand. I've had nothing but trouble with Dulux emulsion over
the
last couple of years.

I've had no trouble with Dulux Trade and used Supermatt and standard Vinyl
Matt. In fact, it was lovely paint to work with.

I used Dulux Trade, Dulux 'diy', Crown and Homebase emulsions in
decorations last year. I found they all worked well TBH.
--
Chris French, Leeds

Grant Fitzgerald wrote in message
IEach section slightly overlapped the preceding
section. I am pleased with the finish although when I place a lamp at
one end of the wall and look along it from the other end I can see
vertical lines where the paint slightly overlapped between sections.

What I'd like to know is - is this avoidable? I think my technique is
OK
and I seemed to be keeping a wet edge at all times. Maybe a different
type of paint would help? My wife thinks I'm mad because it looks
great
apart from when the light is shining at a shallow angle, but I just
want
to do a good job. If the overlap marks are always going to be visible
under these circumstances, then fine, I will happily move on and
finish
the room but I'd like to know if anyone knows how to avoid this. Maybe
I'm just too fussy?

As others have said, a second coat will usually sort it out. I always
get left with the painting and varnishing jobs and I don't usually have
any problems. But....I have one wall in one room where I have exactly
the same problem. It has now had four coats, with a change of paint for
the last one, and I still can't get rid of the marks. The light is from
a velux window almost above your head as you walk in the door, and the
wall runs away from the door on one side. I'm fairly sure it is just the
odd angle of the light that does it. Anyway, I have given up and put a
chest of drawers half way along the wall :-) So, it might not be you or
me OR the paint, it might be the light's fault

HTH

--
Holly, in France.
Holiday home in the Dordogne,
website: http://la-plaine.chez.tiscali.fr

Vera wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 12:06:51 +0000, Grant Fitzgerald
wrote:



2-3 minutes?! Maybe I'm just going too slowly and the paint is drying
too much - it took me an hour to do my (10 metre long) wall!


I would expect it to take me about ten mins tops to roll the wall but
longer (20 minsish) to do the cutting in.

I would never roll in straight lines. Load the roller, do a W on the
wall and then over roll in all directions till it starts to feel
sticky. Then do the next bit.



For each section I was painting a W on the wall and then rolling in all
directions. I was only rolling vertically when doing my light finishing
strokes for each section - do you think this is a bad idea?

Vera wrote:
On Wed, 09 Mar 2005 09:15:16 +0000, Grant Fitzgerald
wrote:


For each section I was painting a W on the wall and then rolling in all
directions. I was only rolling vertically when doing my light finishing
strokes for each section - do you think this is a bad idea?


Sounds like it's the finishing strokes that gave you the lines - I've
never done that and never had lines...

Maybe, but I only get the lines where one section overlaps the next, not
within each section. I am thinking that the paint in the previous
section is drying a bit too quickly meaning that the overlap isn't
levelling itself properly. I think I'm going to experiment with Crown
paint at the weekend (as suggested elsewhere in the thread) to see if it
has better levelling properties or allows me more time to work.

"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
...
Vera wrote:
On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 12:06:51 +0000, Grant Fitzgerald
wrote:



2-3 minutes?! Maybe I'm just going too slowly and the paint is drying
too much - it took me an hour to do my (10 metre long) wall!


I would expect it to take me about ten mins tops to roll the wall but
longer (20 minsish) to do the cutting in.

I would never roll in straight lines. Load the roller, do a W on the
wall and then over roll in all directions till it starts to feel
sticky. Then do the next bit.



For each section I was painting a W on the wall and then rolling in all
directions. I was only rolling vertically when doing my light finishing
strokes for each section - do you think this is a bad idea?

Not necessarily IME. Thinking about it, I always tend to finish up rolling
more-or-less vertically for light finishing and don't get overlaps showing.

From the sounds of it the paint pigmentation and formulation is to blame.
I just don't like the amateur/DIY formulations available in the shops - they
just seem too thick, which makes overlap problems more likely to occur & the
spreading out on the wall just that much more difficult. My personal
favourite is Leyland trade, or Farrow & Ball if we want the flattest of
finishes. 2 coats minimum, always.


--
Richard Sampson

mail me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

From the sounds of it the paint pigmentation and formulation is to
blame.
I just don't like the amateur/DIY formulations available in the shops -
they
just seem too thick, which makes overlap problems more likely to occur &
the
spreading out on the wall just that much more difficult. My personal
favourite is Leyland trade, or Farrow & Ball if we want the flattest of
finishes. 2 coats minimum, always.
I've proved to my own satisfaction that Crown emulsion is better than
Dulux.
A customer of mine wanted a two tone room and had bought one of each
brand.
All the walls had been recently skimmed so it was a level playing field
situation. Crown went on like a dream, covered well despite being thinner,
and left no lines or brushmarks. Dulux left lines that I could see in
certain lights and generally looked a bit cheap and nasty by comparison.
And before anyone tells me to thin it with water, just consider what a
bloody performance that is in practice. Slurp some into a bucket and stir
10% water into it? Just try and get anywhere near a uniform consistency.
The
more you stir a thixotropic liquid, the thinner it gets, and it can take a
couple of hours standing for it to return to anything useable.
There really isn't any excuse for firms formulating paints which don't
work
on the most common surface.

I've proved to my own satisfaction that Crown emulsion is better than
Dulux.

What sort of Dulux?

I find Dulux Trade goes on absolutely like a dream. I thin the first coat on
fresh plaster so it doesn't dry too quickly, but main coats go on neat. It
is by far the best paint I've worked with although I haven't tried the
properly expensive paints (i.e. F&B etc).

Dilution isn't much of a chore. When pouring paint into the tray (I usually
use an old washing up bowl!), I just put in a slug of water from a cup and
stir with the brush.

Even just a single coat gives a disturbingly creditable appearance,
especially as it isn't officially a 1 coat paint.

Christian.

"RichardS" wrote in message
...

My personal
favourite is Leyland trade, or Farrow & Ball if we want the flattest of
finishes. 2 coats minimum, always.

F&B is delightful to work with, somebody round here said it was like
painting with velvet. He was right, we used it when we rebuilt our small
caravan and wouldn't use anything else now.

Mary


--
Richard Sampson

mail me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk