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Old March 5th 05, 03:55 PM
 
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Default Immersion heater problem

Hi,

I rent a house with an electic immersion heater that runs from Economy
7 at night and has a 1hr boost switch for daytime use. The water used
to get scolding hot, which, although arguably dangerous, was great as
it meant only a small quantity of hot water together with lots of cold
water was required for a bath. The element and thermostat has recently
been replaced (fitted at top of tank) and now, although the water is
very hot, there does not seem to be so much of it so by the time a bath
has filled the hot water has become luke warm and no cold water is
needed. This means 1 hot bath and that's it for the day. I suspect the
water does not heat up to such a high a temperature as before. The
thermostat (manufactured by BACKER)is on its max setting and is 18"
which is the same length as the previous one (PULLIN). I do not know
the length of the element but the tank is about 30" so I guess the
element would be 27". The element has a thermal cut-out device which I
do not remember the old one having. Perhaps this is limiting the
temperature. What are the implications of bypassing this device? Do
different makes of thermostats have higher temperature settings? Any
other suggestions/ideas?

Thanks


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Old March 5th 05, 04:47 PM
Jeff
 
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wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I rent a house with an electic immersion heater that runs from Economy
7 at night and has a 1hr boost switch for daytime use. The water used
to get scolding hot, which, although arguably dangerous, was great as
it meant only a small quantity of hot water together with lots of cold
water was required for a bath. The element and thermostat has recently
been replaced (fitted at top of tank) and now, although the water is
very hot, there does not seem to be so much of it so by the time a bath
has filled the hot water has become luke warm and no cold water is
needed. This means 1 hot bath and that's it for the day. I suspect the
water does not heat up to such a high a temperature as before. The
thermostat (manufactured by BACKER)is on its max setting and is 18"
which is the same length as the previous one (PULLIN). I do not know
the length of the element but the tank is about 30" so I guess the
element would be 27". The element has a thermal cut-out device which I
do not remember the old one having. Perhaps this is limiting the
temperature. What are the implications of bypassing this device? Do
different makes of thermostats have higher temperature settings? Any
other suggestions/ideas?

Thanks


AIUI - the economy 7 immersion should be fitted at the bottom of the
cylinder (so it heats all the water).

Regards Jeff


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Old March 5th 05, 07:33 PM
Senior Member
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Dec 2004
Posts: 174
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by
Hi,

I rent a house with an electic immersion heater that runs from Economy
7 at night and has a 1hr boost switch for daytime use. The water used
to get scolding hot, which, although arguably dangerous, was great as
it meant only a small quantity of hot water together with lots of cold
water was required for a bath. The element and thermostat has recently
been replaced (fitted at top of tank) and now, although the water is
very hot, there does not seem to be so much of it so by the time a bath
has filled the hot water has become luke warm and no cold water is
needed. This means 1 hot bath and that's it for the day. I suspect the
water does not heat up to such a high a temperature as before. The
thermostat (manufactured by BACKER)is on its max setting and is 18"
which is the same length as the previous one (PULLIN). I do not know
the length of the element but the tank is about 30" so I guess the
element would be 27". The element has a thermal cut-out device which I
do not remember the old one having. Perhaps this is limiting the
temperature. What are the implications of bypassing this device? Do
different makes of thermostats have higher temperature settings? Any
other suggestions/ideas?

Thanks

Are you sure you havn't now got an 11" immersion? Shut gate valve run bath hot tap 'till it stops, buy cheap immersion spanner from bnq, surround it with towel, remove immersion, check length, replace if long renew if short. Open gate valve shut tap.
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Old March 5th 05, 09:43 PM
Lurch
 
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Default

On 5 Mar 2005 07:55:38 -0800, strung together
this:

I rent a house with an electic immersion heater that runs from Economy
7 at night and has a 1hr boost switch for daytime use. The water used
to get scolding hot, which, although arguably dangerous, was great as
it meant only a small quantity of hot water together with lots of cold
water was required for a bath. The element and thermostat has recently
been replaced (fitted at top of tank)


E7 immersion heaters should be fitted at the bottom, although I think
yours is a dual purpose E7 at night\standard in the day type.

and now, although the water is
very hot, there does not seem to be so much of it so by the time a bath
has filled the hot water has become luke warm and no cold water is
needed. This means 1 hot bath and that's it for the day. I suspect the
water does not heat up to such a high a temperature as before.


Stick the boost on then.

The
thermostat (manufactured by BACKER)is on its max setting and is 18"
which is the same length as the previous one (PULLIN). I do not know
the length of the element but the tank is about 30" so I guess the
element would be 27".


Yep, immersions come in 11" and 27" versions so yours will be the 27"
as the stat will be shorter than the element.

The element has a thermal cut-out device which I
do not remember the old one having. Perhaps this is limiting the
temperature.


Nope, this is set to a higher temperature than the maximum temperature
of the thermostat so it will not be doing anything to control the
temp. It is a overload cutout for safety.

What are the implications of bypassing this device?


Er, other than extreme death by explosion?

Do different makes of thermostats have higher temperature settings?


Generally not, if they do there's only usually a few degrees
difference.

Any other suggestions/ideas?


Sorry, no.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject
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Old March 6th 05, 12:07 AM
Ed Sirett
 
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On Sat, 05 Mar 2005 16:47:29 +0000, Jeff wrote:


wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I rent a house with an electic immersion heater that runs from Economy
7 at night and has a 1hr boost switch for daytime use. The water used
to get scolding hot, which, although arguably dangerous, was great as
it meant only a small quantity of hot water together with lots of cold
water was required for a bath. The element and thermostat has recently
been replaced (fitted at top of tank) and now, although the water is
very hot, there does not seem to be so much of it so by the time a bath
has filled the hot water has become luke warm and no cold water is
needed. This means 1 hot bath and that's it for the day. I suspect the
water does not heat up to such a high a temperature as before. The
thermostat (manufactured by BACKER)is on its max setting and is 18"
which is the same length as the previous one (PULLIN). I do not know
the length of the element but the tank is about 30" so I guess the
element would be 27". The element has a thermal cut-out device which I
do not remember the old one having. Perhaps this is limiting the
temperature. What are the implications of bypassing this device? Do
different makes of thermostats have higher temperature settings? Any
other suggestions/ideas?

Thanks


AIUI - the economy 7 immersion should be fitted at the bottom of the
cylinder (so it heats all the water).


Either increase the thermostat a little or give the heater more time.

It will need about 2 hours to fully heat up a the cylinder.

Do not defeat the manual reset cut out - it's there in case the main
thermostat fails on.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html




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