On 5 Mar 2005 07:55:38 -0800, strung together
this:

I rent a house with an electic immersion heater that runs from Economy
7 at night and has a 1hr boost switch for daytime use. The water used
to get scolding hot, which, although arguably dangerous, was great as
it meant only a small quantity of hot water together with lots of cold
water was required for a bath. The element and thermostat has recently
been replaced (fitted at top of tank)

E7 immersion heaters should be fitted at the bottom, although I think
yours is a dual purpose E7 at night\standard in the day type.

and now, although the water is
very hot, there does not seem to be so much of it so by the time a bath
has filled the hot water has become luke warm and no cold water is
needed. This means 1 hot bath and that's it for the day. I suspect the
water does not heat up to such a high a temperature as before.

Stick the boost on then.

The
thermostat (manufactured by BACKER)is on its max setting and is 18"
which is the same length as the previous one (PULLIN). I do not know
the length of the element but the tank is about 30" so I guess the
element would be 27".

Yep, immersions come in 11" and 27" versions so yours will be the 27"
as the stat will be shorter than the element.

The element has a thermal cut-out device which I
do not remember the old one having. Perhaps this is limiting the
temperature.

Nope, this is set to a higher temperature than the maximum temperature
of the thermostat so it will not be doing anything to control the
temp. It is a overload cutout for safety.

What are the implications of bypassing this device?

Er, other than extreme death by explosion?

Do different makes of thermostats have higher temperature settings?

Generally not, if they do there's only usually a few degrees
difference.

Any other suggestions/ideas?

Sorry, no.
--

SJW
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