Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)

Mike wrote:
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)

Been there, done that, cursed, scratched head, done it again, cursed again..

Basically it *is* a 45 deg cut (it has to be if you think about it!),
but the key is to rotate the coving along its axis so that the 45 deg
cut goes through the correct plane, IYSWIM - hard to explain in words...

David

"Mike" wrote in message
...
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)



Oh yes it is!. There are 4 types of cut you can make. Think about it. Is it
an inside or outside corner?
Depending on whether its the left or right hand piece you can make an inside
or outside 45 deg cut depending on how you position it in your mitre box.

Its easiest if you make the 4 types of cut in some scrap cove before you
start, then for each corner work out which type of cut you require by plying
around with the cut pieces.

Dave

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Mike wrote:
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)

Been there, done that, cursed, scratched head, done it again, cursed
again..

Basically it *is* a 45 deg cut (it has to be if you think about it!), but
the key is to rotate the coving along its axis so that the 45 deg cut goes
through the correct plane, IYSWIM - hard to explain in words...

David

Hold the coving as if it is already on the ceiling, and then cut!

Dave Gibson wrote:
"Mike" wrote in message
...
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)



Oh yes it is!. There are 4 types of cut you can make. Think about it. Is it
an inside or outside corner?
Depending on whether its the left or right hand piece you can make an inside
or outside 45 deg cut depending on how you position it in your mitre box.

Its easiest if you make the 4 types of cut in some scrap cove before you
start, then for each corner work out which type of cut you require by plying
around with the cut pieces.

exactly the way I did it using a £1.99 cheapo plastic guide from B&Q.

decide which cut you need to do then lay the 'template' corner on the
coving to be cut, place the guide flush with the angle on the template
cut with a fine tooth saw, jobs a goodun


RT

Mike wrote:
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)


'course it bl00dy is! Obvious! There again I did work for 10+ years as a
picture framer. 90 degrees is easy, try a few obtuse/acute angles in a
complex moulding :-( The worst was a frame in the shape of Sherlock
Holme's pipe in profile. Don't ask, it was for a pub, and housed a
collection of pipes.

If you haven't seen how a framer cuts moulding, I'll describe the tool;
I don't get sleepless nights... any more.

Imagine facing the tool, it stands waist high with a footpedal. Behind
some guards (not special) there is a pair of blades with the angle
towards you in the horizontal plane, bit like \/. The blades are highest
near you, sloping down at about 45 deg.

Holding the moulding in place, you press the pedal, the blades are
pulled down, cutting through the timber. A sharp press, nothing to
strenuous, would go straight through 2" PAR giving a very clean cut. No
accidents while I was there, maybe because we respected it so much! No
Risk Assessment needed...

"Dave Jones" wrote in message
...

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Mike wrote:
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving
fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)

Been there, done that, cursed, scratched head, done it again, cursed
again..

Basically it *is* a 45 deg cut (it has to be if you think about it!),
but
the key is to rotate the coving along its axis so that the 45 deg cut
goes
through the correct plane, IYSWIM - hard to explain in words...

David

Hold the coving as if it is already on the ceiling, and then cut!

Did that - joins at the top and bottom but there's a nice 1cm gap in the
middle.
Will try again tomorrow.

Mike wrote:
"Dave Jones" wrote in message
...

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Mike wrote:
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)

Been there, done that, cursed, scratched head, done it again, cursed
again..

Basically it *is* a 45 deg cut (it has to be if you think about it!), but
the key is to rotate the coving along its axis so that the 45 deg cut goes
through the correct plane, IYSWIM - hard to explain in words...

David

Hold the coving as if it is already on the ceiling, and then cut!

Did that - joins at the top and bottom but there's a nice 1cm gap in the
middle.

that's because you're doing it wrong !

are you using a standard mite saw ?

Will try again tomorrow.

top tip: don't bother unless you're using one of those cheapo £1.99
plastic mitre guides that are for sale alongside the coving ;-)



RT

"[news]" wrote in message
...

Hold the coving as if it is already on the ceiling, and then cut!

Did that - joins at the top and bottom but there's a nice 1cm gap in the
middle.

that's because you're doing it wrong !

are you using a standard mite saw ?

I'm using an electric sliding compound mitre saw. There must be some
combination of sloping cut and angle cut that gives the 45 deg needed. Just
haven't found it yet.

In message , Mike
wrote
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)


You've got walls that meet at 90 degrees?



--
Alan

In message , Mike
writes

"[news]" wrote in message
...

Hold the coving as if it is already on the ceiling, and then cut!

Did that - joins at the top and bottom but there's a nice 1cm gap in the
middle.

that's because you're doing it wrong !

are you using a standard mite saw ?

I'm using an electric sliding compound mitre saw. There must be some
combination of sloping cut and angle cut that gives the 45 deg needed. Just
haven't found it yet.


How are you supporting the coving while cutting? As someoen ele said,
the problem is that the coving is not being held in the quite same
position as it will be on the wall, hence the gap.

forget the electric saw, it has no benefits here, and is probably more
the cause of the problem. Get a cheap plastic mitre box for the coving,
and a cheap hand saw. you may need to use a scrap of beading or some
such to hold the coving in the correct position (I screwed a bit in
place on mine).

Then you just need to get the cut round the right way....
--
Chris French, Leeds

"Alan" wrote in message
...
In message , Mike
wrote
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)


You've got walls that meet at 90 degrees?

Nope. That's the second problem :-)

Mike typed:


Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make
coving fit flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)


You've got walls that meet at 90 degrees?

Nope. That's the second problem :-)

Ah, I was going to say your corners are probably anything but an exact 90deg
so If you cut your coving at 45deg it's not going to fit, I use a Mitre
finder a 3 leg device were the middle leg doesn't move and thus gives you
the cutting angle, unfortunately I cant find a seller online or link.

--
Mark§

In message , Mike
writes

"Alan" wrote in message
...
In message , Mike
wrote
Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make coving fit
flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)


You've got walls that meet at 90 degrees?

Nope. That's the second problem :-)

You should just need to cut at 1/2 the angle the corner is, if it's 90,
then cut at 45, if angle is 100 cut at 50, if it's an external angle
it's the same, 270 corner cut at 135; I've done a couple of odd wall
corners with 150 and 120 angles. The only trick needed is to cut the
coving at the angle it will meet the other piece at the corner, i.e.
stand the coving on its edge, rather than laying it flat.

ASCII art showing an end view of a piece of coving follows:



like this

saw-blade-saw-blade
----
/
/
/
|
|



not like this or this

saw-blade-saw-blade-saw-blade
_________
\ / / \
\_______/ / \



--
bof at bof dot me dot uk

bof wrote:


You should just need to cut at 1/2 the angle the corner is, if it's 90,
then cut at 45, if angle is 100 cut at 50, if it's an external angle
it's the same, 270 corner cut at 135; I've done a couple of odd wall
corners with 150 and 120 angles. The only trick needed is to cut the
coving at the angle it will meet the other piece at the corner, i.e.
stand the coving on its edge, rather than laying it flat.

Is this any good?

http://www.magicmitre.co.uk/

Roger.

In message , Roger Wareham
writes
bof wrote:


You should just need to cut at 1/2 the angle the corner is, if it's 90,
then cut at 45, if angle is 100 cut at 50, if it's an external angle
it's the same, 270 corner cut at 135; I've done a couple of odd wall
corners with 150 and 120 angles. The only trick needed is to cut the
coving at the angle it will meet the other piece at the corner, i.e.
stand the coving on its edge, rather than laying it flat.

Is this any good?

http://www.magicmitre.co.uk/

Not tried one, I just use a cheap and cheerful mitre saw. The box
attachments on the one in the URL look like they'd make standing the
coving on its edge a bit easier.

--
bof at bof dot me dot uk

"bof" wrote in message
...
In message , Roger Wareham
writes
bof wrote:


You should just need to cut at 1/2 the angle the corner is, if it's 90,
then cut at 45, if angle is 100 cut at 50, if it's an external angle
it's the same, 270 corner cut at 135; I've done a couple of odd wall
corners with 150 and 120 angles. The only trick needed is to cut the
coving at the angle it will meet the other piece at the corner, i.e.
stand the coving on its edge, rather than laying it flat.

Is this any good?

http://www.magicmitre.co.uk/

Not tried one, I just use a cheap and cheerful mitre saw. The box
attachments on the one in the URL look like they'd make standing the
coving on its edge a bit easier.

I have (tried one) it's truly magic ... but buy one
from QVC as they through in the saw for the 'normal'
price. It does make both holding the coving, standard-height
that you'll find in the sheds, and obtaining the precise angle(s).

--

Brian

"Mark" wrote in message
...
Mike typed:


Anybody know what the angles needs on a mitre saw are to make
coving fit flush in a 90deg corner.

It isn't a 45 deg cut made vertically :-)


You've got walls that meet at 90 degrees?

Nope. That's the second problem :-)

Ah, I was going to say your corners are probably anything but an exact
90deg
so If you cut your coving at 45deg it's not going to fit, I use a Mitre
finder a 3 leg device were the middle leg doesn't move and thus gives you
the cutting angle, unfortunately I cant find a seller online or link.

That was the original idea behind using a mitre saw so that I could start at
a compunded 45 deg angle and work from there. Unfortunately no-one could
come up with the settings needed so I've headed into town and bought the
cheap bit of plastic that does 90 deg corners sort of okay.