I am painting a 1930's ex-council house. I am sure it has been stripped and
re-pebbled a few times. I am dealing with old pebbledash on the main house
and new-ish pebble on some of the extensions. The house has not been painted
for at least 10 years--maybe more. What I really need to know is -- What is
the best brush to use. I've gone through all of my brushes/rollers and still
feel as though there is a better way. I am looking for anyone's "best brush"
recommendation before I go up the ladder to do the hard parts. Thanks All.
Jim

"Jimbo" (remove $ ) wrote in message
...
I am painting a 1930's ex-council house. I am sure it has been stripped and
re-pebbled a few times. I am dealing with old pebbledash on the main house
and new-ish pebble on some of the extensions. The house has not been painted
for at least 10 years--maybe more. What I really need to know is -- What is
the best brush to use. I've gone through all of my brushes/rollers and still
feel as though there is a better way. I am looking for anyone's "best brush"
recommendation before I go up the ladder to do the hard parts. Thanks All.
Jim

Hi Jim
My house is painted p/dash too and living here 23 years I've done it all at
least 3 times. My experience is there's no quick and easy way. I use a wide 6"
brush to do the thin fungicide and sealer coats, then for the first coat of
paint I use a good and thick 3" ordinary paintbrush. You could use 4" if your
wrist is strong enough but I found 3" better. You have to work the paint into
all the crevices etc - don't be stingy with it, and make sure there are no
missed spots (you need to look from every angle). This is where it makes your
wrist ache. Then for the last coat I use a long lambswool roller, which is
really quick!

Hope this helps and good luck.
Peter

Jimbo wrote in message ...
I am painting a 1930's ex-council house. I am sure it has been stripped and
re-pebbled a few times. I am dealing with old pebbledash on the main house
and new-ish pebble on some of the extensions. The house has not been
painted
for at least 10 years--maybe more. What I really need to know is -- What is
the best brush to use. I've gone through all of my brushes/rollers and
still
feel as though there is a better way. I am looking for anyone's "best
brush"
recommendation before I go up the ladder to do the hard parts. Thanks All.
Jim
I'd use a long haired acrylic roller. Most trade paint outlets stock them.
Very frustrating with a brush, and the circular motion you end up using
makes your arm ache.

On Mon, 24 May 2004 23:22:47 +0000 (UTC), "Jimbo" (remove $ ) wrote:

I am painting a 1930's ex-council house. I am sure it has been stripped and
re-pebbled a few times. I am dealing with old pebbledash on the main house
and new-ish pebble on some of the extensions. The house has not been painted
for at least 10 years--maybe more. What I really need to know is -- What is
the best brush to use. I've gone through all of my brushes/rollers and still
feel as though there is a better way. I am looking for anyone's "best brush"
recommendation before I go up the ladder to do the hard parts. Thanks All.
Jim

For something as rough as pebbledash, maybe spraying might be easier...

"Peter Taylor" wrote in message
...
"Jimbo" (remove $ ) wrote in message
...
I am painting a 1930's ex-council house. I am sure it has been stripped and
re-pebbled a few times. I am dealing with old pebbledash on the main house
and new-ish pebble on some of the extensions. The house has not been painted
for at least 10 years--maybe more. What I really need to know is -- What is
the best brush to use. I've gone through all of my brushes/rollers and still
feel as though there is a better way. I am looking for anyone's "best brush"
recommendation before I go up the ladder to do the hard parts. Thanks All.
Jim

Hi Jim
My house is painted p/dash too and living here 23 years I've done it all at
least 3 times. My experience is there's no quick and easy way. I use a wide
6"
brush to do the thin fungicide and sealer coats, then for the first coat of
paint I use a good and thick 3" ordinary paintbrush. You could use 4" if your
wrist is strong enough but I found 3" better. You have to work the paint into
all the crevices etc - don't be stingy with it, and make sure there are no
missed spots (you need to look from every angle). This is where it makes your
wrist ache. Then for the last coat I use a long lambswool roller, which is
really quick!

Hope this helps and good luck.
Peter

Oh, one other thing I forgot to mention. IMO there's nothing better than a
pressure washer for preparing the walls before painting. Mine tend to get algae
growth, which washes off easily. The pressure washer also removes all the loose
paint really well. I do the washing at least a week before I start painting, to
let it dry out.

Peter

Also, consider a solvent based masonry paint from Macphersons, Johnstones
etc

Mike Harrison wrote in message . ..
On Mon, 24 May 2004 23:22:47 +0000 (UTC), "Jimbo" (remove $ ) wrote:

I am painting a 1930's ex-council house. I am sure it has been stripped and
re-pebbled a few times. I am dealing with old pebbledash on the main house
and new-ish pebble on some of the extensions. The house has not been painted
for at least 10 years--maybe more. What I really need to know is -- What is
the best brush to use. I've gone through all of my brushes/rollers and still
feel as though there is a better way. I am looking for anyone's "best brush"
recommendation before I go up the ladder to do the hard parts. Thanks All.
Jim

For something as rough as pebbledash, maybe spraying might be easier...


I used a long haired roller, but also with a bit of a stippling action
to work the paint in well