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Aniseed
 
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Default Scale inhibitor problem

Dear DIY experts,

I currently have an in-line scale inhibitor on a pipe running into a
Worcester Heatslave 9-24 combi boiler. It was installed by the house
builder 15 years ago. The scale inhibitor is also made by Worcester. It
does not seem to have been topped up with crystals regularly. The scale
inhibitor is a heavy copper capsule with a cap at the top which you are
supposed to unscrew to top up with polyphosphate crystals. But it is
jammed tight. I have tried removing the unit, and tried my best to
unscrew the cap using an adjustable spanner, but i couldn't budge the
thing. I tried heating up the cap end of the caspule over a gas hob,
then cooling it in water, but it didn't help. Tapping the cap with a
hammer also no good.

I can't tell if the unit still has crystals in it, or if there is
something else in there, but after I screwed it back into the plumbing
after my unsuccessful top-up attemp, it seems to be restricting the
flow of water into the boiler. The hot water flow rate is about only a
third of what it used to be, barely enough to shower with...
What would you do if you were in my shoes?

-aniseed

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Cuprager
 
Posts: n/a
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Aniseed wrote:
Dear DIY experts,

I currently have an in-line scale inhibitor on a pipe running into a
Worcester Heatslave 9-24 combi boiler. It was installed by the house
builder 15 years ago. The scale inhibitor is also made by Worcester. It
does not seem to have been topped up with crystals regularly. The scale
inhibitor is a heavy copper capsule with a cap at the top which you are
supposed to unscrew to top up with polyphosphate crystals. But it is
jammed tight. I have tried removing the unit, and tried my best to
unscrew the cap using an adjustable spanner, but i couldn't budge the
thing. I tried heating up the cap end of the caspule over a gas hob,
then cooling it in water, but it didn't help. Tapping the cap with a
hammer also no good.

I can't tell if the unit still has crystals in it, or if there is
something else in there, but after I screwed it back into the plumbing
after my unsuccessful top-up attemp, it seems to be restricting the
flow of water into the boiler. The hot water flow rate is about only a
third of what it used to be, barely enough to shower with...
What would you do if you were in my shoes?

-aniseed

Aniseed,

I have that boiler too. If you explain where abouts the capsule is then
i will have a look at mine to see if it there and if the lid comes off.

I am thinking about replacing the boiler as it is getting a bit old now.
It isnt causing me any problems but it is niggling me due to its age.
What do you think, should i be concerned because it is old?? And is it
old in boiler terms... Worcester tell me that that model was made
betweer 85 - 89

Gerry
  #3   Report Post  
Aniseed
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Cuprager wrote:
Aniseed wrote:
Dear DIY experts,

I currently have an in-line scale inhibitor on a pipe running into a
Worcester Heatslave 9-24 combi boiler. It was installed by the house
builder 15 years ago. The scale inhibitor is also made by Worcester. It
does not seem to have been topped up with crystals regularly. The scale
inhibitor is a heavy copper capsule with a cap at the top which you are
supposed to unscrew to top up with polyphosphate crystals. But it is
jammed tight. I have tried removing the unit, and tried my best to
unscrew the cap using an adjustable spanner, but i couldn't budge the
thing. I tried heating up the cap end of the caspule over a gas hob,
then cooling it in water, but it didn't help. Tapping the cap with a
hammer also no good.

I can't tell if the unit still has crystals in it, or if there is
something else in there, but after I screwed it back into the plumbing
after my unsuccessful top-up attemp, it seems to be restricting the
flow of water into the boiler. The hot water flow rate is about only a
third of what it used to be, barely enough to shower with...
What would you do if you were in my shoes?

-aniseed

Aniseed,

I have that boiler too. If you explain where abouts the capsule is then
i will have a look at mine to see if it there and if the lid comes off.


Hi Gerry,

The capsule is located outside the boiler. My capsule is located under the
kitchen sink. The boiler is also located in the kitchen, and the water mains
runs from the ground under the kitchen sink, through the capsule, and then into
the boiler. (By the way, If you live in a soft water area you may not have one,
as its only necessary for areas with water that causes limescale buildup.)

I am thinking about replacing the boiler as it is getting a bit old now.
It isnt causing me any problems but it is niggling me due to its age.
What do you think, should i be concerned because it is old?? And is it
old in boiler terms... Worcester tell me that that model was made
betweer 85 - 89


Hmm, I've never thought of replacing the boiler just due to old age. Unless it
developed some problem, I guess I wouldn't bother. Unfortunately I am not
experienced with DIY in general, let alone home heating, so I can't give advice
on this. Ask me about computers if you want solid advice

-aniseed

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Wingedcat
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Aniseed wrote:
Cuprager wrote:
Aniseed wrote:
Dear DIY experts,

I currently have an in-line scale inhibitor on a pipe running into

a
Worcester Heatslave 9-24 combi boiler. It was installed by the

house
builder 15 years ago. The scale inhibitor is also made by

Worcester. It
does not seem to have been topped up with crystals regularly. The

scale
inhibitor is a heavy copper capsule with a cap at the top which

you are
supposed to unscrew to top up with polyphosphate crystals. But it

is
jammed tight. I have tried removing the unit, and tried my best to
unscrew the cap using an adjustable spanner, but i couldn't budge

the
thing. I tried heating up the cap end of the caspule over a gas

hob,
then cooling it in water, but it didn't help. Tapping the cap with

a
hammer also no good.

SNIP


Hmm, I've never thought of replacing the boiler just due to old age.

Unless it
developed some problem, I guess I wouldn't bother. Unfortunately I am

not
experienced with DIY in general, let alone home heating, so I can't

give advice
on this. Ask me about computers if you want solid advice

-aniseed


How about binning this in-line scale inhibitor and replacing it with a
phosphate dosing unit, (Combi-mate or equivalent) cost about =A330 from
B&Q etc, which take replacement cartridges every year costing ~=A315.
Just twist out the old cartridge and twist in the new.

Installation is two compression joints, so shouldn't be too tricky. Of
course it might involve some reorganisaton of your existing pipework,
but you sound like you'll be fine with that if you've already taken out
the existing unit.

(However whether these work or not is a different matter! I have one of
these on the inlet to my Megaflow - don't know what sort of state the
coil heat exchanger is in but it certainly doesn't stop limescale
forming around all my hot taps!)

Luke

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IMM
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Wingedcat" wrote in message
oups.com...

Aniseed wrote:
Cuprager wrote:
Aniseed wrote:
Dear DIY experts,

I currently have an in-line scale inhibitor on a pipe running into

a
Worcester Heatslave 9-24 combi boiler. It was installed by the

house
builder 15 years ago. The scale inhibitor is also made by

Worcester. It
does not seem to have been topped up with crystals regularly. The

scale
inhibitor is a heavy copper capsule with a cap at the top which

you are
supposed to unscrew to top up with polyphosphate crystals. But it

is
jammed tight. I have tried removing the unit, and tried my best to
unscrew the cap using an adjustable spanner, but i couldn't budge

the
thing. I tried heating up the cap end of the caspule over a gas

hob,
then cooling it in water, but it didn't help. Tapping the cap with

a
hammer also no good.

SNIP


Hmm, I've never thought of replacing the boiler just due to old age.

Unless it
developed some problem, I guess I wouldn't bother. Unfortunately I am

not
experienced with DIY in general, let alone home heating, so I can't

give advice
on this. Ask me about computers if you want solid advice

-aniseed


How about binning this in-line scale inhibitor and replacing it with a
phosphate dosing unit, (Combi-mate or equivalent) cost about 30 from
B&Q etc, which take replacement cartridges every year costing ~15.
Just twist out the old cartridge and twist in the new.

Installation is two compression joints, so shouldn't be too tricky. Of
course it might involve some reorganisaton of your existing pipework,
but you sound like you'll be fine with that if you've already taken out
the existing unit.

(However whether these work or not is a different matter! I have one of
these on the inlet to my Megaflow - don't know what sort of state the
coil heat exchanger is in but it certainly doesn't stop limescale
forming around all my hot taps!)

The venturi gets blocked up, so remove the top of it and poke out the holes
with a paper clip. It can't supply the drinking after and must be fitted a
double check valve to prevent backflow into the mains and drinking water.

Best try an electronic unit on the Megaflow inlet. They a have a good
success rate. Most give a 6 months trial. Fernox sell one.



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Aniseed
 
Posts: n/a
Default

You've read my thoughts, Luke. I was shopping around for a replacement
unit, and so far I've got two candidates:

- MiniC scale inhibitor from airandwatercentre.com, for only 23.00+VAT

- Combimatedual-fit from RS, for 127.50

Both use siliphos crystals, and both are DIY install. But the price, as
you can see, is very different.

Its only two of us living in a cottage, so hot water usage is low. Any
thoughts on which one to choose?

-aniseed

  #7   Report Post  
Wingedcat
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Aniseed wrote:
You've read my thoughts, Luke. I was shopping around for a

replacement
unit, and so far I've got two candidates:

- MiniC scale inhibitor from airandwatercentre.com, for only

23.00+VAT

- Combimatedual-fit from RS, for 127.50

Both use siliphos crystals, and both are DIY install. But the price,

as
you can see, is very different.

Its only two of us living in a cottage, so hot water usage is low.

Any
thoughts on which one to choose?

-aniseed


Assuming you are doing a straightforward swap I'd go for the MiniC or
similar, as this is intended to service a single appliance such as a
boiler or water heater. This is then a like for like replacement.

It looks like the Combimate dual-fit is meant for whole house
installations, so perhaps a bit overboard.

Luke

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Posts: 4
Default Scale inhibitor problem

The water boiler, in the fields of industry and the people's lives, plays an important role. However, the operation corrosion, discontinuation corrosion and the scaling problems resulted by the corrosion products in the water boiler system have been plaguing us for a long time.Our boiler scale inhibitor has brought the significant benefits such as saving water and energy, saving equipment investment, extending working life, improving the effectiveness of the heating quality and protecting the environment. a href="http://ionexchangeresin.bidragon.com" target="_blank"boiler scale inhibitor/a
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Posts: 14,085
Default Scale inhibitor problem

On Sun, 1 Sep 2013 19:54:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

ionexchangeresin.bidragon.com


Oh look another completely independant "recomendation"...

--
Cheers
Dave.



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