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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Shock
Everything is cross-bonded correctly, but while touching the combi-boiler,
and the timer, at the same time, got a small shock. The boiler is an old Worcester, the timer a separate wall mounted Honeywell, I had the front of the boiler off - NOT touching any electrical componants. Interested to know if it's the boiler/ timer, or the electrical circuit, or could be either. I do full gas/electrical installations which are certificated by qualified persons, so, please, no 'if you don't know what your doing, get an electrician in' type replies - they are not helpful. |
#2
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Hugh wrote:
Everything is cross-bonded correctly, but while touching the combi-boiler, and the timer, at the same time, got a small shock. The boiler is an old Worcester, the timer a separate wall mounted Honeywell, I had the front of the boiler off - NOT touching any electrical componants. Interested to know if it's the boiler/ timer, or the electrical circuit, or could be either. I do full gas/electrical installations which are certificated by qualified persons, so, please, no 'if you don't know what your doing, get an electrician in' type replies - they are not helpful. Measure voltage between the two items. Also, it's winter, and may be low humidity in some places, leading to static shocks. |
#3
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On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 18:06:18 +0000 (UTC), "Hugh"
wrote: Everything is cross-bonded correctly, but while touching the combi-boiler, and the timer, at the same time, got a small shock. In this weather, I'd guess that it's _you_ that needs earth bonding. What happens if you walk across the same carpet in the same socks, then touch the cold water tap ? |
#4
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"Hugh" wrote in message ... Everything is cross-bonded correctly, but while touching the combi-boiler, and the timer, at the same time, got a small shock. The boiler is an old Worcester, the timer a separate wall mounted Honeywell, I had the front of the boiler off - NOT touching any electrical componants. Interested to know if it's the boiler/ timer, or the electrical circuit, or could be either. I do full gas/electrical installations which are certificated by qualified persons, so, please, no 'if you don't know what your doing, get an electrician in' type replies - they are not helpful. What part of the Honeywell timer were you touching? AFAICR all Honeywell timers are plastic cased and hence should not have any conductive parts to provide a path for any electrical current. Was anything dripping wet? |
#5
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"Hugh" wrote in
: Everything is cross-bonded correctly, but while touching the combi-boiler, and the timer, at the same time, got a small shock. The boiler is an old Worcester, the timer a separate wall mounted Honeywell, I had the front of the boiler off - NOT touching any electrical componants. Interested to know if it's the boiler/ timer, or the electrical circuit, or could be either. I do full gas/electrical installations which are certificated by qualified persons, so, please, no 'if you don't know what your doing, get an electrician in' type replies - they are not helpful. How was the humidity? I've had a "buzz" off a kitchen socket faily close to my beloved steamer. I checked everything, not really muchpoint as I was only touching plastic getting on for an inch away from any concuctor. And your boiler is prolly a pretty good earth (hopefully ;-) But it did make me jump, as I'm somewhat windy of leccy (many years, playing with many volts) I'd hate to be holding a chip pan at the time. mike |
#6
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just the 'on-off' rocker switch - and, yes it is plasric cased, and no, not
dripping wet! My other hand was probably just touching the boiler casing, so a bit perplexed. I'm planning to re-wire, and replace the boiler, but depending on the problem will decide in which order - don't want to put in a RCD fuseboard only to find it trips immediately, and don't want to throw out the boiler if there's a couple of years of use from it. It's served me well.But I don't know how to troubleshoot a possible electrical fault in the boiler. Could it be shorting? or would the internal fuse blow? It's a Worcester 9.24 Heatslave. Any ideas gratefully received! -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- view my philatelic items for sale on ebay at: http://tinyurl.com/l32i "John" wrote in message ... "Hugh" wrote in message ... Everything is cross-bonded correctly, but while touching the combi-boiler, and the timer, at the same time, got a small shock. The boiler is an old Worcester, the timer a separate wall mounted Honeywell, I had the front of the boiler off - NOT touching any electrical componants. Interested to know if it's the boiler/ timer, or the electrical circuit, or could be either. I do full gas/electrical installations which are certificated by qualified persons, so, please, no 'if you don't know what your doing, get an electrician in' type replies - they are not helpful. What part of the Honeywell timer were you touching? AFAICR all Honeywell timers are plastic cased and hence should not have any conductive parts to provide a path for any electrical current. Was anything dripping wet? |
#7
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In message , Hugh
writes just the 'on-off' rocker switch - and, yes it is plasric cased, and no, not dripping wet! My other hand was probably just touching the boiler casing, so a bit perplexed. I'm planning to re-wire, and replace the boiler, but depending on the problem will decide in which order - don't want to put in a RCD fuseboard only to find it trips immediately, and don't want to throw out the boiler if there's a couple of years of use from it. It's served me well.But I don't know how to troubleshoot a possible electrical fault in the boiler. Could it be shorting? or would the internal fuse blow? It's a Worcester 9.24 Heatslave. Any ideas gratefully received! Well, you could get your sig sep sorted out for a start Whay I've copied below appears as your signature ... "view my philatelic items for sale on ebay at: http://tinyurl.com/l32i "John" wrote in message ... "Hugh" wrote in message ... Everything is cross-bonded correctly, but while touching the combi-boiler, and the timer, at the same time, got a small shock. The boiler is an old Worcester, the timer a separate wall mounted Honeywell, I had the front of the boiler off - NOT touching any electrical componants. Interested to know if it's the boiler/ timer, or the electrical circuit, or could be either. I do full gas/electrical installations which are certificated by qualified persons, so, please, no 'if you don't know what your doing, get an electrician in' type replies - they are not helpful. What part of the Honeywell timer were you touching? AFAICR all Honeywell timers are plastic cased and hence should not have any conductive parts to provide a path for any electrical current. Was anything dripping wet? " -- geoff |
#8
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"Hugh" wrote in message ... "John" wrote in message ... "Hugh" wrote in message ... Everything is cross-bonded correctly, but while touching the combi-boiler, and the timer, at the same time, got a small shock. The boiler is an old Worcester, the timer a separate wall mounted Honeywell, I had the front of the boiler off - NOT touching any electrical componants. Interested to know if it's the boiler/ timer, or the electrical circuit, or could be either. I do full gas/electrical installations which are certificated by qualified persons, so, please, no 'if you don't know what your doing, get an electrician in' type replies - they are not helpful. What part of the Honeywell timer were you touching? AFAICR all Honeywell timers are plastic cased and hence should not have any conductive parts to provide a path for any electrical current. Was anything dripping wet? just the 'on-off' rocker switch - and, yes it is plasric cased, and no, not dripping wet! My other hand was probably just touching the boiler casing, so a bit perplexed. I'm planning to re-wire, and replace the boiler, but depending on the problem will decide in which order - don't want to put in a RCD fuseboard only to find it trips immediately, and don't want to throw out the boiler if there's a couple of years of use from it. It's served me well.But I don't know how to troubleshoot a possible electrical fault in the boiler. Could it be shorting? or would the internal fuse blow? It's a Worcester 9.24 Heatslave. Any ideas gratefully received! Please don't top post I've put your post into context to make it clearer but it does seem to me that there must be a conductive track fault on the timer, possibly due to previous dampness or even carbonised material from flashing. The boiler metalwork "should" be at earth potential (which may not be zero volts but thats another story). However it isn't impossible to get a sensation of shock from an involuntary muscle spasm which just conicides with touching something. . Your initial remark about cross bonding might be pertinent as you do not mention any main bond and there is a possibility that simply applying equipotential bonding around the boiler, especially if any plastic pipework is involved might be introducing a potential where one did not previously exist In view of your apparent lack of electrical nous I think you really ought to get someone in to check it out correctly |
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