I'm planning on moving a lightswitch in my garage from behind the door
to the side you can easily reach inside to when opening the door
(Discussion of what kind of f*ckwit puts a lightswitch behind the door
will have to wait for another time). The whole electrical installation
in the garage reeks of bodgering (As does the actual physical
structure but, again that's another thread altogether). In particular
the cables carrying power to a double socket, lightswitch and two
lamps are all fixed directly to the wall with cable clips.

This looks untidy to me and I'm thinking of putting in runs of 20mm
plastic cable conduit to carry the cables. The only thing that I'm not
clear on is what to do with the junction box wiring up the lightswitch
and the lights. It wont cleanly connect to the cable conduit (It's a
flat, rectangular opening rather than a round one) so I was expecting
to have to replace it with conduit tee box. However there's no
electrical connectors of the type usually found in a junction box in
these. Can I lift the connectors from the existing junction box and
put them in the tee box or make up new connections with connector
blocks?

Have I missed anything else I should be thinking of?

Thanks

Tony

I'm planning on moving a lightswitch in my garage from behind the door
to the side you can easily reach inside to when opening the door
(Discussion of what kind of f*ckwit puts a lightswitch behind the door
will have to wait for another time).

It is likely that the door has been rehung from the other side for some
access reason, but the electrics were never updated.

The whole electrical installation in the garage reeks of bodgering
In particular the cables carrying power to a double socket, lightswitch
and two lamps are all fixed directly to the wall with cable clips.

That is acceptable, unless the need for mechanical protection applies. This
might be the case if it is more of a workshop than a garage.

Christian.

wrote in message
m...
I'm planning on moving a lightswitch in my garage from behind the door
to the side you can easily reach inside to when opening the door
(Discussion of what kind of f*ckwit puts a lightswitch behind the door
will have to wait for another time). The whole electrical installation
in the garage reeks of bodgering (As does the actual physical
structure but, again that's another thread altogether). In particular
the cables carrying power to a double socket, lightswitch and two
lamps are all fixed directly to the wall with cable clips.

This looks untidy to me and I'm thinking of putting in runs of 20mm
plastic cable conduit to carry the cables. The only thing that I'm not
clear on is what to do with the junction box wiring up the lightswitch
and the lights. It wont cleanly connect to the cable conduit (It's a
flat, rectangular opening rather than a round one) so I was expecting
to have to replace it with conduit tee box. However there's no
electrical connectors of the type usually found in a junction box in
these. Can I lift the connectors from the existing junction box and
put them in the tee box or make up new connections with connector
blocks?

Have I missed anything else I should be thinking of?
When I moved a light switch and added sockets in my garage I used conduit
glued to the wall using no-nails (or similar). I was gluing to exterior
emulsion paint painted breeze blcoks. If you use no-nails as a filler, as
well, behind the conduit you have a nice smooth edge that vacuums/wipes
clean when you clean-up after a massive sawdust generating session as
well!!!

wrote:

The only thing that I'm not clear on is what to do with the junction
box wiring up the lightswitch and the lights. It wont cleanly connect
to the cable conduit (It's a flat, rectangular opening rather than a
round one) so I was expecting to have to replace it with conduit tee
box. However there's no electrical connectors of the type usually
found in a junction box in these. Can I lift the connectors from the
existing junction box and put them in the tee box or make up new
connections with connector blocks?

A tee is too small to make connections inside. Ideally use a square
adaptable box and mount a terminal block inside. Alternatively you
could use a round conduit box (aka BESA box) with a small terminal block
inside.

--
Andy

A tee is too small to make connections inside. Ideally use a square
adaptable box and mount a terminal block inside. Alternatively you
could use a round conduit box (aka BESA box) with a small terminal block
inside.

Alternatively, rewire using a metalclad switch box as the junction box as
well as holding the switch. There will already be connectors for switched
live, perm live and earth. You just need to get a suitably insulated
connector to loop the neutrals (or even crimp). This solution is neater, as
you don't have a separate junction box sitting on the wall and there's
plenty of space in a metalclad switch box.

Christian.

On 13 Jan 2005 06:23:05 -0800, wrote:

I'm planning on moving a lightswitch in my garage from behind the door
to the side you can easily reach inside to when opening the door
(Discussion of what kind of f*ckwit puts a lightswitch behind the door
will have to wait for another time). The whole electrical installation
in the garage reeks of bodgering (As does the actual physical
structure but, again that's another thread altogether). In particular
the cables carrying power to a double socket, lightswitch and two
lamps are all fixed directly to the wall with cable clips.

This looks untidy to me and I'm thinking of putting in runs of 20mm
plastic cable conduit to carry the cables. The only thing that I'm not
clear on is what to do with the junction box wiring up the lightswitch
and the lights. It wont cleanly connect to the cable conduit (It's a
flat, rectangular opening rather than a round one) so I was expecting
to have to replace it with conduit tee box. However there's no
electrical connectors of the type usually found in a junction box in
these. Can I lift the connectors from the existing junction box and
put them in the tee box or make up new connections with connector
blocks?

Have I missed anything else I should be thinking of?

Thanks

Tony

A few things, because I have wired in the way that you describe in my
workshop.

There's actually nothing wrong with twin and earth cable clipped to
the wall as such.

If you want to use conduit, then take care about using T&E inside it
as you may exceed the ratings for the cable.

It would be much better to rewire the whole lot using singles of PVC
cable and avoid the need to have joints.

If you do need terminals in the middle of a conduit system, this will
do the job

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LB9025.html

There are various ones in the range.

There are 20mm knock outs in them and you fit an adaptor through the
holes.




--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

If you do need terminals in the middle of a conduit system,
this will do the job

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LB9025.html

Interesting; what does this bit of the instructions mean:

"# Always use with compression glands & locknuts
# Use EK glands for flex and Hituf or SWA glands"

Tony

In article . com,
writes:
If you do need terminals in the middle of a conduit system,
this will do the job

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LB9025.html

Interesting; what does this bit of the instructions mean:

"# Always use with compression glands & locknuts
# Use EK glands for flex and Hituf or SWA glands"

It means the box only remains weatherproof if you
use an appropriately weatherproofed cable seal.
It should also probably be more specific in saying
CW SWA glands (i.e. waterproof type).

--
Andrew Gabriel

On 14 Jan 2005 00:19:38 -0800, wrote:

If you do need terminals in the middle of a conduit system,
this will do the job

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LB9025.html

Interesting; what does this bit of the instructions mean:

"# Always use with compression glands & locknuts
# Use EK glands for flex and Hituf or SWA glands"

Tony


It only matters if you are going to use it outside and is to maintain
the IP rating.

If it's used just as a convenient junction box then it's only
necessary to knock out the disks and use a regular conduit fitting.




--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl